• 패션비즈니스
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• 제20권5호
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• pp.45-59
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• 2016

This research is a study to develop basic block patterns for adult males. The subjects were 20 men in their 20s, and we tested 6 basic bodice blocks that are used in academia and industry. First, a comparative analysis of the patterns of the bodice blocks was conducted and the test garments were made, and then their appearances were evaluated during wearing tests. Based on the test results, we intended to select a bodice block that is a good fit when it is put on and to use it as basic data in order to design a man's bodice block for the future. The research results are as follows: First, a comparison of the 6 bodice block drafts showed that they used differently calculated ease allowances at chest circumference and width, waist circumference, shoulder length, etc. for which the upper chest circumference is used as a reference. Second, when the appearances of the test garments were tested, the average scores were high in the order of B> H> P> K> M> L. Pattern B was superior in the areas of the neck circumference and shape, ease allowance at the back of the neck, circumference of the front of the neck, location of side width, ease allowance at sides, armhole width and depth. But in the other test items, there were cases where other patterns were superior.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.107-121
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• 1981

The objective of this study is to establish a standard size for clothing construction and to develop a basic bodice pattern for Misses. 1. Seven kinds of pattern generally used in Korea were collected and compared in the aspect of items of necessary measurements and application of measurements to pattern drawing. 2. 209 girls aged 17 to 25 were measured on 22 items. The measurements were analyzed by calculation of means, standard deviations, co-variance, range, maximum, minimum, and correlation co-efficient between each item. the data were classified into four size groups according to bust size. Correlation co-efficient between each item were as follows: 1) Correlation co-efficients of bust to upper bust and waist were very high. 2) Correlation co-efficients of bust to shoulder width, across back and across chest were relatively high (r=.6385, r=.7493, r=.6344, respectively). 3) Bust had little correlation to neck and shoulder slope.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권6호
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• pp.709-717
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• 2002

In the apparel industry, the technology has been advanced rapidly. The use of 3D scanning systems fur the capture and measurement of human body is becoming common place. Three dimensional digital image can be used for design, inspection, reproduction of physical objects. The purpose of this study is to develop a method that drafts men's basic bodice pattern from scanned 3D body surface shape data. In order to pursue this purpose the researchers developed pattern drafting algorithm. The 3D scanner used in this study was Cyberware Whole Body Scanner WB-4. The bodice pattern drafting algorithm from 3D body surface shape data developed in this study is as follows. First, convert geometric 3D body surface data to 3D polygonal mesh data. Second, develop algorithm to lay out 3D polygonal patches onto a plane using Auto Lisp program. The polygon meshes are coplanar, and the individual mesh is continuously in contact with next one The bodice front surface shape data in polygonal patches form was lined up in bust and waist levels. The back bodice was drafted by lining up the polygonal mesh in scapula, chest, and waist levels. in the drafts, gaps between polygons were formed into the darts.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제2권4호
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• pp.360-365
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• 2000

This research is the trial for the computation of the ease-rate for the bodice pattern. The result of the analysis about the cross section figures of garment space by using a 3-D measuring instrument is that: The garment space of each bodice by each body size is definite. In the figure of cross section of the basic lines, an area of cross section of garment space and length of cross section of garment space are not increased in proportion to an area of cross section of the body. The ease rate is the same no matter that flat-rate of the body is same or different. The ease-rate is computed by length of cross section of garment space that is in proportion to the radius of the body.

• 한국컴퓨터정보학회논문지
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• 제23권11호
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• pp.111-122
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• 2018

The purpose of this study was to investigate the bodice prototype method suitable for the upper body shape of old-old aged women using the 3D anthropometric data. And it was to provide the basic data for the upper body garments of old-old aged women. In the overall appearance evaluation, the B pattern was rated as 4.00, and it was evaluated as the most suitable for the bodice prototype of the old-old aged woman. The E pattern was rated lower than normal, and the L pattern and the S pattern were found to be inadequate for older female bodice prototypes. As a result of the measurement of the waist and bust air gap of bodice prototype, the air gap of the bust was not significantly different between the patterns. But the waist air gap showed the largest difference between the L pattern and the S pattern. As a result of evaluating the appearance, the amount of space in the state of 3D simulation, and the air gap, the pattern B appeared to be the most appropriate prototype for the old-old aged women's body shape. However, there is a tendency that the shoulder end point is biased toward the back, so it is necessary to set the inclination of the back shoulder line to be more gentle. Conversely, the front shoulder should be more inclined. In the case of the 3D simulation, the B pattern showed that the other parts generally fit well. In the case of the 3D simulation program used in this study, it was evaluated that it is suitable only for the normal body shape because it is impossible to set the isometric angle which is one of the characteristics of the older female body shape. A study on the bodice prototype suitable for the bent body shape should be carried out through experiments on the actual body shape of various elderly women. In order to cope with the increase of elderly people who are familiar with digital, I think it is necessary to develop an avatar that reflects the old female body shape.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권5호
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• pp.636-643
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to establish the proper amount of eases according to the body type of men's bodice basic pattern. The 3 subjects in 30's men were selected for developing fitted pattern for each type. And the results of the wearing test for individual subject by distributing ease amount are as follows. The wearing test is administrated by a division of 12cm, 15m, and 18cm areas respectively after separating the fitted pattern for each type in a vertical and horizontal ways. There exists a significant difference in ease according to the measures of chest circumference of subjects. Also, it is shown that the more comfortable in function, the better visible in appearance as the ease gets proper. As to regions, the amount and ratio of ease chest circumference are increased in proportion to the size of the chest circumference. The scye depth is affected by the ease of chest circumference, while the ease of the interscye and the back breadth are lessened due to the effect of their appearances. And the side breadth is required as a buffer to complement the shortage of the interscye and the back breadth because the ease of either the interscye or the back breadth is partially transferred in motion.

• 대한인간공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 대한인간공학회 1993년도 추계학술대회논문집
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• pp.205-219
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• 1993

The purpose of this study was to determine maximal width of bodice and skirt pattern of 50 college girls for more scientific patternmaking development in clothing construction. The body measurements data of this study was calculated by SAS, means analysis, regression analysis and T-test were used. The results are as follows. 1. The results of analyzing the whole 85 items of the entire body measurements of model are in table 2. 2. It was suggested the whole average cross section of measurement parts by rohrer index as the result of gathering the each section. 3. Representative items were suggested as fundamental parts in determining the maximal width of bodice and skirt basic pattern by rohrer index. 4. The entire abbreviated calculation formula of bodice and xkirt pattern was suggested.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제12권9호
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• pp.136-145
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• 2012

다양한 체형을 지니고 있는 소비자들에게 만족스러운 착용감을 주는 기성복 생산을 위해서는 체형 특성이 반영된 원형 제작이 필요하다. 인체는 체형에 따라 곡면의 형태가 달라지므로, 인체의 곡면 형태를 세분화하여 그 특성을 원형 설계에 반영할 필요가 있다. 그러나 기성복에서는 개인의 체형별 특징을 일일이 반영하기 힘드므로, 기성복 원형 제작에 활용 가능한 체형별 인대 모형이 요구되고 있다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 삼차원 인체스캔 데이터를 활용하여 체형을 분석하고 각 체형에 따른 인대모형 개발 방법을 제시하였다. 30대 성인 여성의 상반신 삼차원 인체 형상 자료를 분석한 결과, 체형 특성은 보통체형, 비만체형, 마른체형으로 분류되었다. 상반신을 기준선을 두어 나누어 계측한 결과, 체형에 따라 유의적인 차이가 나타났다. 계측된 각 부위별 삼차원 인체 치수를 기본 원형 설계 시 허리다트 위치 및 분량 설정에 반영하여 체형별 상반신 기본 원형을 제작하였으며, 이를 바탕으로 입체모형을 제작하여 스캔, 모델링 작업을 거쳐 체형에 맞는 원형 인대 모형을 제시하였다. 인대 모형은 인체의 입체 형상을 만들기 위한 다트선을 포함하고 있어 기본 원형 제작 및 원형 활용에 도움이 될 것으로 사료된다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권6호
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• pp.921-926
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• 2014

The aim of this study is to develop upper bodice pattern for obese girls aged 10~12 by using 3D virtual garment simulation system. The criteria for subjects in this study were girls who had over 1.46 of the R$\ddot{o}$hrer Index. A total of 229 schoolgirls who met these criteria were enrolled. The results of this study are as follows: First, by using 3D virtual garment simulation, new upper bodice pattern considered obese-schoolgirls was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows ; bust girth B/2+4.5, armhole depth B/4-1, waist girth W/4+0.5+dart amount, front chest width B/6+2, back width B/6+2, neck width B/12-0.5 and neck depth B/12+0.5. Second, armhole darts were added to compensate the loose amount of front armhole and dart manipulation was used to ensure a better appearance on armhole in the design. The dart side line was modified concavely to help cover the protruding stomach. Curved lines on the armhole were significantly relieved using dart manipulation and the darts side line was modified concavely to reduce the tightness around the front waist darts. Third, according to the results of the new upper bodice pattern's appearance evaluation, it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new upper bodice pattern was appropriate for the obese-schoolgirls. This study is expected to serve as one of important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D virtual garment simulation system with 2D patterns.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제21권2호
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• pp.189-202
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• 2019

This study develops a bodice pattern for high school girls aged 17 to 19 that use virtual garment simulation. The study developed a bodice pattern based on the fit evaluation result for two selected bodice patterns. The basic formula of the design method based on the result of 3 times of fit evaluation is as follows: waist back $length=stature/8{\times}1.85cm$, waist front length=waist back length+bust/40+0.7cm, front bust girth=bust/2+4cm, back bust girth=Chest/2+3cm, armscye depth=Chest/4+0.5cm, back interscye length=bishoulder length -1.2cm, front interscye length=back interscye length -1.2cm, front neck width=back neck width -0.3cm. The developed bodice pattern used Bishoulder Length as a criteria for the calculation formula of back interscye length, and back interscye length as a criteria for the calculation formula of front interscye length. The fit evaluation showed the relevance of the bishoulder length, front interscye length, and back interscye length based on a comparison of the calculated figure. A bodice pattern with great body suitability and fitness to high school girls was developed through 3D virtual garment simulation that calculated the application of body proportion to width. This study only analyzed the evaluation result of a virtual model only in a representative form; however, a pattern study is also proposed to compare and analyze the design methods of patterns by body type.