• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.32-38
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• 2003

To get the variety of color by natural dyeing, cotton and silk fabrics were dyed with natural indigo and safflower in turn. The two ways of dyeing processes were carried. First, silk and cotton fabrics were dyed repeatedly in safflower dyebath to five times to get the five fabrics dyed in different shades. And then indigo dyeing process was carried on the top of the dyed fabrics with safflower. In second way, the fabrics were dyed in five stages of shade by repetition of dyeing process in indigo dyebath. And then safflower dyeing was carried on the top of the dyed fabrics with indigo. When indigo dyeing process was added on the top of the fabrics dyed in five shades with safflower, the color differences decreased between five shades of fabrics, their color values got similar in hue, shade and chroma. When safflower dyeing process was added on the top of the fabrics dyed in five shades with indigo, the fabrics showed different hue of colors between red and blue of Munsell color circle such as RP, P and PB. Like almost of fabrics dyed with plants materials, the lightfastness and laundering fastness of dyed samples were poet and drycleaning fastness were good.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.423-430
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• 2003

Cotton fabric md nylon fabric were chosen as base fabric specimens for dyeing using Japanese pagoda tree colorants through chitosan, treatment. With the chitosan treatment, the dye-uptake of the treated fabric increased. This treatment is also expected to be effective in terms of environment-friendliness. The effect of the dyeing methods, mordanting or non-mordanting, and chitosan treatment on the dye-uptake and air permeability of the treated fabrics was investigated. In case of cotton fabric, Al mordanted dyeing resulted in higher dye-uptake through the chitosan treatment. Therefore, the chitosan treatment is effective in this case. Japanese pagoda tree seems to have direct affinity for nylon fabric without the mordanting treatment. In case of cotton fabric, it seems that the cellulose molecules, colorants, and the chitosan make a complex, thereby reducing the air permeability. In case of nylon fabric, due to the fact the Japanese pagoda tree colorant molecules form direct physical bonding with the nylon molecules, it seems that there is not much of air permeability reduction.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.124-128
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• 2003

Dark brown Alpaca fiber was reduced in shade via selective bleaching with peroxide. Two selective oxidative bleaching methods were tested on alpaca top to assess their effectiveness for color removal and fiber quality properties. Color change, bundle strength, weight loss, fiber diameter, surface modification, dye-ability and dye wash fastness were assessed for both methods and compared with the original brown top. Bleach method 1 (BL-I) showed little surface modification, 5.8% weight loss and 2.4% strength loss. D1925 yellowness index was reduced to 74.3 from 83.1 and provided a good base for the dyeing of medium to deep shades. Bleach method 2 (BL-II) displayed considerable surface modification, 7.8% weight loss and 18% strength loss. BL-II also resulted in a mean diameter reduction of 1.9 micron during bleaching. Yellowness was reduced to 64.5 from 83.1 and provided a very good base for the dyeing of medium to deep shades. BL-I showed better exhaustion of the premetallised dye Lanaset Violet B than BL-II. Wash fastness for BL-II was 1 grey scale unit poorer than BL-I. BL-II showed far better color clarity at pale depths however the wash fastness of the finished product was not good enough to maintain the depth or clarity of the color. BL-I showed poorer clarity of color but exhibited better wash fastness results.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.115-122
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• 2009

Marbling dyeing technique shows beautiful flowing pattern because the pattern is transferred to the medium by the pigments floating onto the viscous solution base. However, this marbling pattern does not have any reproducibility and the result of accidental pattern formation. Marbling process contains many complicated procedures such as making marbling base, mordanting the medium, and bubble removal with size limitation. Computer changed the many aspects in textile design and digital technique is used in many design production. However, it is impossible to produce marbling pattern with digital drawing. In this research, the digital textile design starting from marbling pattern was developed for digital textile printing. Marbling was done to produce the initial motifs and scanned. Several marbling media such as silk, polyester, and paper were used. Photoshop was used to process and develop textile design based on these marbling motifs. One repeat was developed and various colorways were tried. The developed textile design were printed using DTP.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.791-803
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• 2012

This study intends to identify applicability of natural dye extracted from Aplysia kurodai, aiming to standardization of Aplysia kurodai natural dyeing through scientific validation by analyzing characteristics of pigment elements to review dyeability, colorfastness and antibacterial activity. Such material as silk fabrics that is animal fiber were used for this purpose, and derived following summarized results. UV/VIS spectrum analysis on the pigment of Aplysia kurodai that was extracted from purple gland showed that maximum absorbtion was near 540 nm. The silk fabric optimal dyeing can be achieved at a temperature of $55^{\circ}C$ with a colorant concentration of 5%. Dyed at $55^{\circ}C$ with interval of 10~90 minutes for identifying dye uptake over time to observed slow increase of dye uptake over time, and equilibrium occurred at 50 minutes. For dye uptake according to pH, while dye uptake was superior in acidity, it decreased rapidly in a base after pH 7. For color changes according to pH variation, it was reddish purple in acidity and was purplish red in a base. For color changes according to mordanting method, more clear color change had been obtained when process with aluminium pre-mordanting than non-mordanting and post-mordanting. The colorfastness to light, perspiration and washing was 1, 4~5, and 3~4 ratings respectively. The silk fabric dyed with Aplysia kurodai demonstrated excellent antimicrobial activity to Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae. The Aplysia kurodai can be used as a new colorant for the natural dyeing of silk.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.105-112
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• 2017

A string wallcovering is a kind of textile wallcovering which is made of cellulose fiber yarn laminated on base paper. Compared with normal paper or PVC wallpaper, a string wallcovering is preferred continually in the interior design market, as it is not only environmentally friendly but it also has less cost on mass production without the weaving process and has a natural visual effect, excellent functionality such as thermo keeping, permeability, sound absorption. However, in the dyeing process, it is not appropriate to use plenty of energy such as water, electricity, steam or chemicals considering the environmental trend and the government policy plenty of energy such as water, electricity, steam or chemicals. Currently, a string wallcovering is made of raw white yarn and padding with direct dye or pigment which includes toxic elements, especially the use of direct dye is restricted in a part of the developed country due to inclusion of azo. In this study, we researched dyeing based on cold pad batch dyeing of a string wallcovering with reactive dyestuff. The peel strength and bending depth test confirmed that the optimum adhesive type and spread amount improved the water resistance of the string wallcovering. Also, pad batch dyeing with optimum reactive dyestuff enhanced the color fastness to light and rubbing in dry and wet conditions. Additionally, for improvement of color fastness to rubbing in a wet condition, the additional treatment finishing without soaping process which is used water. The results of this study can be used as basic data for environmentally friendly and energy saving of the textile wallcovering.

• Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
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• v.34 no.3
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• pp.90-98
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to estimate natural dyeing properties of Korean traditional paper (Hanji). Korean traditional paper, which made from bleached bast fiber pulp of Broussonetia kazinoki was used as base paper. As dyestuffs, hot water extractives of Phellodendron amurense bark, Rosa multiflora leaf and stalk, and Rubia cordifolia root and methanol extractives of Lithospermum erytrorhizon root were used. $Al_2(SO_4)_3$ and $Fe(OH)(CH_3COO)_2$ 0.5% solution were used as mordant. Soybean juice (10%), chitosan (0.1%), and skim milk (2%) solutions were used as auxiliary dyeing agents. Accelerated aging treatments of natural dyed Korean traditional papers were undergone at following conditions: exposure temperature, $80^{\circ}C$ relative humidity, 60%; wavelength, 340 nm; UV irradiance, $0.67W/m^2/nm$ exposure time, 24, 48, and 72 hours. Colors, color difference, and color fastness were examined for estimation of natural dyeing characteristics. The auxiliary dyeing agents treated Korean traditional papers were more superior the dyeing effectiveness about dyestuffs than untreated Korean traditional papers. The dyeing effectiveness of soybean juice treated Korean traditional paper was superior to the others. The color fastness of Korean traditional paper, which was dyed with Rubia cordifolia root extractives, was most inferior to the others.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.861-871
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• 2014

This study explored applicability of natural dyeing and functional property of base paper using paper yarn and fabrics with green laver extracts. As a result of measuring dyeability and functional property of cotton, silk, and a blended fabric of cotton/mulberry, $60^{\circ}C$ and 40 minutes was the optimal dyeing condition for the cotton fabric under an alkali condition; $50^{\circ}C$ and 60 minutes for the silk fabric; $60^{\circ}C$ and 50 minutes for the blended fabric of cotton/mulberry. As a result of measuring the color fastness after dyeing cotton, silk and the blended fabric of cotton/mulberry, fastness to washing, water, rubbing, dry cleaning and light was superior. In terms of functional property, the silk and the blended fabric of cotton/mulberry were superior concerning antimicrobial properties of the fabric dyed with green laver extracts while the cotton fabric showed 90% or over. Regarding deodorization, the blended fabric of cotton/mulberry was the most superior. All the fabrics were harmless to the human body as they had heavy metal content below the standard. Considering the research results comprehensively, the green laver extracts possibly has enough applicability and functional property as a natural dyes. Moreover, it has potential to be developed new eco-friendly fashion materials.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.122-130
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• 2017

In the direct digital textile printing process, the pre-treatment process is an essential condition for products by forming a clear pattern by sticking and penetration of DTP dye without spreading on the fabric. Recently, pre-treatment agent is changing from high viscosity to low viscosity in order to reduce defects of fabric during pre-treatment process. In this study, pre-treatment agent of acrylic polymer with low viscosity(less than 50cps) was prepared according to the solid content of the polymer, pre-treated on the cotton fabric, and direct DTP printing was performed to compare the color and sharpness. As a result, it showed high color at a viscosity of 50cps or less. When the solid content of the polyacrylic acid having a high molecular weight(A1) was 2.5wt%, when the solid content of the polyacrylic acid having a low molecular weight(A2) was 1 - 1.5wt%, the color was the best. And when the solid content of A1 and A2 was 1.5wt%, the degree of spreading was small and A1 was superior to A2 at the sharpness.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2012.03a
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• pp.116-116
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• 2012

국내 섬유산업의 경쟁력을 향상시키고 채산성을 확보하기 위해 고부가가치 섬유 제품의 개발이 요구된다. 심미성을 발현하는 대표적인 후가공 기술인 카렌더 가공은 국내뿐만 아니라 국외 후진국에서도 보편화된 기술로 대량 생산으로 인한 가공비 저하, 물량 확보 등에 많은 어려움을 격고 있어 고부가가치의 신기술을 요구한다. 최근 이태리, 일본 등의 선진국에서 후가공 기술인 EMBO 롤러를 이용한 무아레 가공 원단이 고가로 거래되고 있다. 무아레(Moire)는 프랑스어로 "물결 모양의 무늬"라는 뜻으로 직물에 파형(波形)또는 나뭇결 무늬를 나타나게 하는 가공 기술로, 국내에서도 EMBO 롤러를 이용하여 무아레 가공을 하거나 두 겹의 원단을 이용한 무아레 가공이 시도되고 있으나, 전자의 경우 사용되는 롤러가 일반 롤러에 비해 훨씬 고가이고 한 종류의 롤러로 제한된 패턴 밖에 표현할 수 없고 적용 소재가 한정되는 등 많은 단점을 지니고 있고, 후자의 경우 세탁내구성이 나빠 상품화조차 되지 못하고 있어 현재 국내 섬유가공 기술로는 고내구성을 가지고 다양한 효과를 발현하는 무아레 가공이 불가능한 실정이다. 직물의 경 위사 밀도차이를 이용하여 무아레를 형성할 수 있다는 점에 착안하여, 경 위사 조직을 갖는 이형(離型)원단에 PU 수지를 코팅하여 격자무늬(grid) 필름을 제조하고 제조된 Grid 필름과 Base원단을 라미네이팅하여 경 위사 밀도차에 의해 무아레 무늬를 형성할 수 있었다. 이형원단과 Base원단의 경 위사의 밀도에 따라 다양한 패턴의 3차원 무아레 무늬를 발현시킬 수 있으며 합성섬유 및 천염섬유 등의 원단 소재에 제약 없이 영구 내구성의 무아레 제품을 생산할 수 있을 것으로 판단된다. 본 연구에서는 Grid 필름을 이용한 무아레 가공을 위하여 이형원단 제조 조건을 확립하였고, grid 필름 캐스팅 조건, 라미네이팅 조건을 달리하여 이형성 및 무아레 형상을 비교하여 고찰함으로써 제품화에 필요한 요소 기술의 기초를 마련하고자 한다.