• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.40-54
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• 2009

Many studies make us difficult for understanding the specific concept of NOW avant garde by misusing avant garde or by using the over wide-ranging concept. The purpose of this study is to define the concept of NOW avant garde fashion by analyzing its fashion and its paradigm characteristics, after considering modern avant garde fashion history. This study was used with bibliographic research as well as internet search of qualitative method for analyzing fashion show clothes since 2005 women's wear. The characteristics of NOW avant garde fashion are classified into plural deconstructivism, econonism that integrates the last avant garde factors with logical economics, and the aesthetic of Tech-Human. To conclude, the concept of NOW avant garde fashion is defined as the fashion expressing either the digital-hybrid images or the deconstructive images meaning elimination, unification or confinement, being pilled up one on another, bizarre connection, transposition, and distortion.

• Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.180-192
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• 2008

The historian called Peter Burger divided it into historical avant-garde before and after the first World War (Dadaism, Futurist, Geometric Abstract, etc.) and Neo- avant-garde during the period of forming social foundation that would be ready to accept new forms of art in the USA, the center of capitalism, after the 2nd World War such as pop art and conceptual art including the then emerging avant-garde minimal art. Meanwhile, he interpreted that Neo- avant-garde succeeded the spirit of historical avant-garde. For modem furniture, the avant-garde terminologies are discussed from the aspect of epistemology or symbolism. On the other hand, they would be exclusively used for advertising slogans, however, it is considered as difficult due to vague terms or their characteristics. This study relates the points of historians such as Peter Burger for theoretical proposal and Richard Kostelanetz's point for formal issues, and contracts and arranges the avant-garde terminologies and its characteristics to the meaning of "getting out of the present decadent trend - aiming for future", "transcending the present aesthetic custom - renovation" and "violating the rules already established in the process of entering new areas - freshness of unfairness". The study was meaningful in providing fundamental clues based on the historical discussion and artists for Neo- avant-garde in the 1960s, that is, the mainstream of design at the end of the 20th century in the period when an avant-garde oriented alternative in the 21st century design has been sincerely required overflowed with the fin de siecle phenomenon.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Interior Design Conference
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• 2003.05a
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• pp.160-165
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• 2003

Art of today is expressed in various images incorporated in industrial development and visible in industrial parks, modern cities. Avant garde art and modernism brought abstract and conceptual art into conflict in the early 20th century and they absorbed elements of each other and grew into post modernism, which emerged in the 1960s and is still current. The avant garde challenged what was lofty and sometimes opposed modernism and sometimes fed it in cycles until post modernism was established. 'Trans avant garde', which, unlike modernism asserted individual expression, also appeared in the 1970s. Trans avant garde is spiritual art in which the artist's conversation with his soul returns. This study examines the readjustments the trans avant garde is making in its relationship with the dominant ethos of different values and offers the world art with important spiritual beauty. Trans avant garde art takes many forms, from thing to huge, which are manifested every where in architecture, interior design and everyday life.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.1-13
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• 2013

We studied the meaning of the term avant-garde in relation to clothing of the 1980s and 1990s by examining the media's perceptions of Martin Margiela, a Belgian deconstructionist designer who was often labeled as avant-garde by journalists, scholars, and fashion critics in the late 20th century. A five-step content analysis method described by Paoletti (1982) was used to conduct the research. Newspaper and magazine articles in the 1980s and 1990s were analyzed using a set of existing avant-garde characteristics developed by Crane (1987) to determine if those journalists' perceptions matched the characteristics described by Crane. Results indicated that the journalists' critiques and descriptions matched the avant-garde characteristics described by Crane (1987). Including a subjective element to the conceptualization of the term explains how journalists described Margiela's designs despite Japanese designers' use of similar techniques before him. We (re) conceptualize the term's latter 20th century meaning and shifting dialogue to include a subjective element.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.970-980
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• 2011

As a type of intimate architecture, fashion has always mediated the dialogue between clothes and the body, or fashion and figure. This study seeks to inquire the current aesthetic consciousness of the body and dress in Japanese avant-garde fashion and intends to research the features and meanings in the pastiche of Western sartorial convention in Japanese avant-garde fashion in order to examine the changing aesthetic attitude in postmodern fashion. The study investigates subjects of the fashion collections of the turn of the twenty-first century, when pastiche strategies frequently appeared in Japanese avant-garde fashion, through the methodology of literature research and case analysis. The results of the study are as follows: by developing the strategy of pastiche, Japanese avant-garde fashion exposes the defectiveness of the Western idea of the idealized and standardized body for mass productions, thus freeing design from its traditional confinement to the human body. Drawing on the re-conceptualization of the sartorial convention of Western tradition, Japanese avant-garde fashion designers tend to experiment with extreme exaggeration in form, refusing to subscribe to the traditional Western values built on the balance and symmetry of the body. Through the combination of the past and the present as well as the inner-wear as outerwear strategy, the historical pastiche challenges convention and symbolism, which results in the discord between signifiant and signifi$\acute{e}$ of clothing.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Design Studies Conference
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• 2005.05a
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• pp.156-157
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• 2005

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.14 no.2 s.42
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• pp.21-40
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to analyze the features of the avant-garde architecture in the end of the 20th Century based on the ontology as a metalanguage. In view of the results so for achieved, it is possible to say that the thought of becoming, topology, rhizome thought and the Deleuze's concepts of the fold and the event as ever-changing and evolving at any given time are found in the avant-garde architecture, and the introduction of ontological thought into architectural design encourage hopes for a more natural and existential quality in architecture. However, the avant-garde architecture in the end of the 20th century disclosed the limitation in the architectural expression of ontological thought due to the lack of fully understand on ontology. In conclusion, the ontological approach in architecture offers a new morphological methodology and a new way of programming considering the existential aspect of space through the bricoleur's means leaving the ontological meaning of architecture itself.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.62-82
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate the Avant-garde's aesthetic values and expressoinal characteristic, and to find out(analysis) the design characteristic of Avant garde fashion since 1995. Expressoinal characteristics of Avant garde with the anti-aesthetic, radically pursuing newness, and open mind, are revealed dynamism, hostile innovation, and experimentalism. Futuristic images expressed in dynamism represent space style, body conscious style, cyborg style, kinetic style, and primitive style. And deconstructional images related to hostile innovation show punk style, grunge style, humor style, and abstractive style. Also surreal images related to experimentalism hold erotic style, depasemant style, deformation style, and collage style. The proper usage of newness offers the escape, the vividness, and the humour from the fatigue of the life and so, it is expected to offer the chance of transfering the active individuals and societies directly or indirectly By analyzing the instances for the images of avant-garde fashion since 1995, the contribution about the expectation of the design trends of the present and future is expected.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.1 s.110
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• pp.50-65
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• 2007

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the planarization of the body in Japanese avant-garde fashion. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in Japanese avant-garde fashion, my study examines subjects from the discourse on the body to the fashion collections of the 20th and 21st century. The results of the study are as follows. Japanese avant-garde fashion focuses on a planarization of the body which questions the three dimensional construction of the body in more conventional clothing system. Un-structured, variable space posited between the body and clothes, participation of the wearer, attention to recent technology and material, and absence of gender identification characterizes the planarization of the body in Japanese avant-garde fashion. The absence of body in fashion stresses a will-to-form rather than mere bodily proportion and structure, which explores trans-extensity that goes beyond the boundary of the body Ultimately, planarization of the body betrays the correspondence between signifiant and signifie in sartorial convention. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in Japanese avant-garde fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.787-803
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to reestablish the innovative and experimental designs of Rei Kawakubo by considering and analyzing the flow on the avant-garde nature of her design collection from 1981 to 2017. Design trends such as the art trend, silhouette, color, and expressive technique showcased in Rei Kawakubo's collection from 1981 spring/summer to 2017 spring/summer were examined through precedent studies, books, internet materials, and the avant-garde expressive nature of her designs appearing in modern fashion. Additionally, this study considers the definition of avant- garde and analyzes the expressive nature of Rei Kawakubo's 137 works from the Comme des Garcons collection, exhibited in New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art. As a result of this examination, the avant-garde expressive nature seen in modern fashion was classified into the following themes: historicity, de-structure, exaggeration, intermixture, and surrealism. As a result of reclassifying these characteristics according to historical flow, the historicty, intermixture, and de-structure appeared in the 1980s, while intermixture, exaggeration, and de-structure appeared in the 1990s. More recently, historicity, intermixture, and de-structure appeared in the 2000s, and intermixture, de-structure, exaggeration, and surrealism appeared in the 2010s. The present study is significant in providing theoretical material for the more innovative and various design development in diverse domains while helping to define and understand the avant-garde expression through Rei Kawakubo's collection.