• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.17 no.4
• /
• pp.91-100
• /
• 2015

The purpose of this study is to analyze the style of check dresses shown in collections from 2011 to 2014 and to extract main expressional words for the development of semantic differential scales of visual images according to the change in silhouette of block check dresses. The results of this study are as follows: 1) 120 check dresses shown in collections were composed of 57 straight silhouette dresses, 38 fitted silhouette dresses, 23 hourglass silhouette dresses, 1 barrel silhouette dress, and 1 atypical silhouette dress. And check pattern mostly used in the current collections a square pattern of block check, tartan check that is a Scotch traditional lattice pattern, a small lattice pattern of gingham check, over check that other check patterns are arranged on check pattern, star-shaped hound tooth check, glen check mixing small pattern and big pattern. The visual image for check dress differs according to changes in the check pattern and silhouette of the dress. 2) Main expressional words of visual images for block check dresses differ greatly depending on the silhouette of dresses. The visual images are ranked in the order of 'graphic', 'simple', 'hard', 'modern' for straight silhouette of block check dresses. The words of 'lively', 'girlish', 'feminine', 'cute' are ranked for hourglass silhouette of block check dresses. And the words of 'confident', 'feminine', 'modern' are marked down for fitted silhouette of block check dresses.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.25 no.4
• /
• pp.141-150
• /
• 2021

Recently, interest of consumers in home furnishing products has increased steadily because of the increased time spent at home due to COVID-19. Among them, carpets made of various materials and technologies are becoming popular interior item. Academic and industrial sectors agreed on the need to produce premium design carpets. Prior research on carpet design was mostly focused on patterns, history, with insufficient investigations on the type. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to provide basic data to develop premium design carpets by analyzing their expression types. To analyze expression types, this study covered about 400 design carpets surveyed on the websites of eight major carpet companies from January 2021 to March 2021. Based on the analysis results, the five expression types of are as follows. Firstly, the expression type was expressed in various atypical forms that was deviated from the formal form. Secondly, it was a type that improves visual and tactile effects through a variety of 3-D textures. Thirdly, it was a type of diversification of motifs, which was based on the works of artists and designers in various fields. Fourthly, it was a type that combines two or more different materials and techniques. Finally, it was a modular type that can be applied in various ways to various spaces. Based on the analysis results of this study, it is hoped that the data will be helpful to produce premium design carpets in Korea.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.31 no.1
• /
• pp.70-90
• /
• 2023

This study aims to use Art brut works-the artwork of the socially underprivileged and alienated-to influence social roles in fashion design, employing a formative expression method to promote social acceptance of diversity in the industry. The research method involved investigating Art brut's concept and evolution in domestic and foreign literature and previous studies. The formative characteristics of the movement were derived by analyzing the works of Art brut artist Johann Hauser. One hundred and twenty images of Johann's work were collected through online sources like the Gugging Museum's website, Christian Berst Gallery's website were developed as fashion design using the CLO 3D program. The formative characteristics of Johann's works appeared to be transparent overlapping, divisional decorativeness emphasized simplicity, and vibrant chromaticity. Based on this analysis, the results of the 3D digital fashion designs were as follows. First, the characteristics of the atypical objects and figures in Johann's works were applied to the design silhouette, revealing a uniquely beautiful form. Second, Johann used a method in which numerous line shapes overlap and fill the area. The point of connecting the work is expressed as a graphic pattern by decorating the lines of the hem and hem of the garment with piping or attaching overlapping straps on top of pants and dresses. Third, the combination of overlapping colors used in Johann's work is a color block design of fashion, which utilizes the formative fun.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
• /
• v.13 no.2
• /
• pp.141-153
• /
• 2010

Fashion needs to be understood as practicality and creative behavior and various movements of paintings act as inspirations of original design for fashion designers. This study seeks to find sources of fashion designs in the works of Mark Rothko who is in the center of color-field abstract. Color-field of Rothko provides infinite inspirations as colors are identically treated as shapes and lighting and textures are all included on top of it. In this study, the purpose is to create color focused artistic fashion design by exploring the possibility of expression with the colors of Rothko as the main motive. The study method is as follows. First, the concept and significance of color-field abstract are researched through documented data. Works of Rothko is divided into three periods according to their characteristics. The background of the formation of color-field abstract of Rothko is understood by analyzing the trends of the works in each period. Second, twenty representative works from 1949 to 1969 are selected and analyzed in formative components of color, shape and textures in order to more accurately understand shape of colors, brilliance, simplicity that appear in the mature color-field abstract of Rothko. Third, preexisting methods of color-field of paintings developed into motives of clothing are studied focusing on the collections from 1997 to 2006. Examples of applications of color-field images in modern fashion designs are analyzed. Fourth, motives are selected based on general characteristics of color-field abstract of Rothko and the results of the formative analysis. Clothing is produced that expresses the colors of the paintings of Rothko more effectively. As the results of the study, restrained shapes and textures and various forms of color combinations shown in color-field abstract of Rothko provided deep inspirations on material composition and color planning for fashion design focused on colors. Additionally, needle-punching technique using wool for the production technique enabled relief texture expressions of materials by colors and effective applications of soft and warm atmosphere of color-field abstract of Rothko on clothing. Especially, the ideology of color-field abstract of Rothko of shaping of colors could be expressed and the direction of the development of motives could be presented at the same time by specifically applying color combination method using horizontal division of atypical color-field from the formative characteristics of color-field abstract of Rothko.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.45 no.4
• /
• pp.727-739
• /
• 2021

The purpose of this study is to present the objective evaluation semantic scale of avant-garde design. Apparel majors were asked to express associative vocabulary, design development, and final design intentions for the avant-garde, and the final 70 copies were used for analysis. The results found the item style was shown often in the order of dress, coat, and combination of shirt and pants. In order, the silhouettes appeared as atypical, complex, square, and triangular; the decorations appeared as feathers, frills, and round sculptures; and the idea method appeared as extreme, association, and removal method. In examining the relations of associative words and idea designs, the dress had relations with associative words such as 'peculiar,' 'futuristic,' 'fancy,' 'Comme des Garcons,' and 'deconstruction.' As for the relationship between the idea design and the expression image vocabulary, it was found that 'one piece' recalled 'huge,' 'volume,' 'abundant,' 'peculiar,' and 'unknown,' while 'coat' recalled 'huge,' 'big silhouette,' and 'padding.' In conducting the word cloud technique, the overall design showed the central keywords were 'huge,' 'big silhouette,' 'unbalance,' 'feather,' 'structural,' 'unknown,' and 'frill,' in order.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.57 no.9
• /
• pp.161-176
• /
• 2007

The objectives of this study are to select and analyze unpublished wedding dresses in the 19th century, to investigate the design characteristics and making techniques of Victorian wedding dresses, and to examine the correlation between the wedding dress style and the fashion style in those days and the influence of the wedding dress style on contemporary's styles. The materials of this study were 9 wedding dresses owned by the Historical Costume and Textile Collection at the University of Connecticut in USA. The dresses were made during the mid and late Victorian Age. As for silhouette, the bustle style was popular in the 1870s and 1880s, and the hourglass style in the 1890s, and different from contemporary dresses there were no big differences in structural pattern and details between ordinary dresses and wedding dresses. In addition, colored wedding dresses were used until the mid and late Victorian Age, but since the wedding ceremony of Queen Victoria in 1840, white wedding dress was widely accepted and settled as the tradition of today's wedding dresses. While the Western dress style had been basically a one piece style, there appeared simple two piece designs in which the upper garment was separated from the lower one, from the mid Victorian Age. This is considered the reflection of those days' pragmatic social trend in dress style. It seems around 1875 when asymmetric design was first introduced in the Western dress style, which had been mostly symmetric. The asymmetric style that pursued atypical beauty, though not common during the late Victorian Age, shows a change in the typical Western dress style. With regard to dress making techniques, sewing machines were distributed widely during the early Victorian Age but they were not used in all parts of dress. Most of details and trimming works were done manually and some parts were attached and detached by hand sewing. In addition, not like today, there were no generalized rules of making such as the form of closings and composition.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.66 no.8
• /
• pp.14-32
• /
• 2016

This study examines the morphological expression type and formative characteristics of women's shoes designs that integrate 3D printing technology. The results of the study are as follows. First, the morphological expression types of contemporary shoes that integrate 3D printing technology express a structural form created by repetition. Second, it expresses a dynamic form, which combines organic curves that create an external volume. Third, it expresses a surrealistic form centered on an object with the creation of a unique shape that utilizes objects easily experienced in local surroundings. Fourth, it expresses a hybrid form on a partial derivation. Each of the other system's components are fused to create another beauty that develops a new value in a colorful variation on the shape of 3D printing shoes. The first formative characteristic of women's shoes designs that integrate 3D printing technology is continuity. This creates an invisible form of a new space through repetitive unidirectional layers with a gradual expansion of a unitary seamless curves. Second, it is an exaggeration. This exaggeration elicits an enormous aesthetic quality by structuring the outward space in the difference of the volume formed based on the maximization of a specific part and the volume of a line's atypical movement. Third, it is a decoration. It displays the beauty of a decoration that evokes a unique artistic inspiration by partial unification or a practical representation of a specific form. This can also be seen as superimposing a 3D printing figure that has an outstanding shape onto part of the fashion shoes. Fourth, it concerns a geometrical characteristic that formulates a new structure with rationality in combining basic shapes such as circles, triangles and squares with lines, hexagons and interconnected geometrical forms to create a multi-dimensional space for shoes in a systematic and unidirectional pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.40 no.6
• /
• pp.1034-1044
• /
• 2016

This study seeks a method to objectively evaluate sensibility based on Big Data in the field of design. In order to do so, this study examined the sensibility responses on design factors for the public through a network analysis of texts displayed in social media. 'Hanbok', a formal clothing that represents Korea, was selected as the subject for the research methodology. We then collected 47,677 keywords related to Hanbok from 12,000 posts on Naver blogs from January $1^{st}$ to December $31^{st}$ 2015 and that analyzed using social matrix (a Big Data analysis software) rather than using previous survey methods. We also derived 56 key-words related to design elements and sensibility responses of Hanbok. Centrality analysis and CONCOR analysis were conducted using Ucinet6. The visualization of the network text analysis allowed the categorization of the main design factors of Hanbok with evaluation terms that mean positive, negative, and neutral sensibility responses. We also derived key evaluation factors for Hanbok as fitting, rationality, trend, and uniqueness. The evaluation terms extracted based on natural language processing technologies of atypical data have validity as a scale for evaluation and are expected to be suitable for utilization in an index for sensibility evaluation that supplements the limits of previous surveys and statistical analysis methods. The network text analysis method used in this study provides new guidelines for the use of Big Data involving sensibility evaluation methods in the field of design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.36 no.5
• /
• pp.489-500
• /
• 2012

This work surveys the trend and dissolution characteristics in headdress that appear in Jean Paul Gaultier's collection. Along with a related literature review, a total of 903 headdress pieces shown in collections 40 times (excluding the common caps and hats) were analyzed, covering from 2001S/S to 2010 F/W of Jean Paul Gaultier's Haute Couture and Pret-a-Porter. The headdress trend indicated in his collections was divided into such subgroup forms of folklore, usage of natural things, usage of artificial things, religion, retro, scarf, variations in headgear, mask and veil, atypical type and abstract. Such an expression tendency was so unique and mixed characteristic that it was hard to define its form and structure thanks to enlargement and exaggeration, extremity in ornaments, and use of foreign materials, which led to creative dynamics. Gaultier's headdress also reflected the following characteristics: first, expression of difference indicative of time deconstruction; second, uncertainty of meanings via deconstruction; third, text interactivity via deconstruction of gender and material adopted; fourth, decentralization through dissolution of the Orient and the Occident.