• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.73-90
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• 2014

Paper, once known and used only as a medium for printing or handicrafts, is now being used in new fields including artistic clothing, and an environment-friendly material for fashion, while the functionality of its formative characteristics and esthetics have been newly highlighted. On this basis, this study performed a content analysis of paper couture and categorization of types of paper modeling techniques based on 904 paper couture submitted to paper fashion shows, exhibitions and contest exhibits from 2001 to 2013. Analysis results showed that paper textile types were most common at 86.64%, while techniques using laminating, bonding, overlapping or paper as-is represented 62.17%. Expressive techniques in which paper was cut or torn and attached to paper clothing was 11.62%, paper folding was 5.75%, drawing and coloring 4.65%, and finally, paper cutting was 2.65%. Meanwhile, among paper modeling techniques using paper yarn textiles, a paper weaving technique was 6.75%. Moreover, other techniques in which paper modeling techniques or subsidiary clothing was blended were 3.65%, and Dak peeling textiles were 1.33%. Paper paste moulding textiles types represented 1.44%, above all papier $m{\hat{a}}ch{\acute{e}}$ techniques of 0.55% and creasing and holding techniques were 0.88%. Paper is sufficient to express the artists' creativity as well as having qualities as an artistic medium, such as variability through combined use with other materials, variation in form, suitability for reuse of waste paper, and environmental friendliness. Also, various paper modeling techniques can be blended with textiles for a generalized technology that overcomes the limits of paper and textiles.

• Journal of Sensor Science and Technology
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.397-402
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• 2018

Proper seat design is critical to the safety, comfort, and ergonomics of automotive driver's seats. To ensure effective seat design, quantitative methods should be used to evaluate the characteristics of automotive seats. This paper presents a system that is capable of simultaneously monitoring body pressure distribution and surface deformation in a textile material. In this study, a textile-based capacitive sensor was used to detect the body pressure distribution in an automotive seat. In addition, a strain gauge sensor was used to detect the degree of curvature deformation due to high-pressure points. The textile-based capacitive sensor was fabricated from the conductive fabric and a polyurethane insulator with a high signal-to-noise ratio. The strain gauge sensor was attached on the guiding film to maximize the effect of its deformation due to bending. Ten pressure sensors were placed symmetrically in the hip area and six strain gauge sensors were distributed on both sides of the seat cushion. A readout circuit monitored the absolute and relative values from the sensors in realtime, and the results were displayed as a color map. Moreover, we verified the proposed system for quantifying the body pressure and fabric deformation by studying 18 participants who performed three predefined postures. The proposed system showed desirable results and is expected to improve seat safety and comfort when applied to the design of various seat types. Moreover, the proposed system will provide analytical criteria in the design and durability testing of automotive seats.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.233-245
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• 1993

This study was undertaken to develop the artificially soiled cloth using clay and dyed oleic acid as model soil and to evaluating the detergency by determination of K/S value and chemical analysis. The results obtained were as follows : 1. Correlation were determined between the K/S value and chemical analysis data for the detergency of developed model soil at various conditions and it was found that model soil could be extensively used for the washing examination. 2. The surface reflectance of soiled cloth with clay-oleic acid mixture was measured two wave length band that was converted K/S values and the amount of two components was individually calculated. Positive correlation were found between detergency that obtained from chemical anlysis and K/S values. Therefore, proposed method of soiled cloth with clay-oleic acid mixed soiles could be extensively used for detergency experiment. 3. The attached state of soil of on the artificially soiled cloth which was observed under a scanning electronic microscope showed a different pattern by the sort of soil. And the difference of attached state of soil had great influence upon the detergency. 4. The composition of clay was changed and formated of noncrystalinity was vanished by calcined at $800^{\circ}C$. Because of a noncrystalline of clay, artificially soiled cloth could be prepared more uniformly but the detergency was decreased.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.677-683
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• 2012

1-octanethiol and vinyl acetate telomers ($R_8S$-nVAc) were synthesized and hydrolyzed with sodium hydroxide subsequently, 1.2-epoxyhexane was then introduced to the telomers. In addition, we prepared cotelomers of multi-alkylated nonionic surfactants with a molecular structure of xRnMA-yVA (x; hydrophobic group, y; hydrophilic group, MA; methacrylic ester, VA; vinyl alcohol, R; and alkyl group) and cross-linked with sodium tetraborate decahydrate. Their active surface properties were investigated by several techniques such as surface tension, foaming property, and emulsification power measurements. The surface tension of $R_8S$-8.8VA decreased without the introduction of 1.2-Epoxy hexane, and the degree of emulsification and foaming abilities of $R_8S$-8.8VA increased without the introduction of 1.2-Epoxy hexane. However, the differences were insignificant. The epoxy groups were attached to a $R_8S$-8.8VA cotelomer with a limited variation of the active surface properties. The surface tension of $1.1R_6MA$-8.8VA decreased after cross-linking subsequently, the degree of emulsification and foaming abilities of $1.1R_6MA$-8.8VA increased after cross-linking. However, there was no clear difference between them. The B-O bonds were attached to a $1.1R_6MA$-8.8VA cotelomer with a limited variation of the active surface properties.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.856-865
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• 2011

This paper intends to examine how Fringe, which is in an inseparable relationship with modern fashion, has been changed and what characteristics it is expressed to have in fashion on the basis of its formative property expressed in modern fashion. In order to empirically analyze Fringe, this paper analyzed a total of 346 Fringe of every type that were generally found in the worldis four biggest collections, from 2006S/S to 2011S/S. This paper found some methods Fringe is made, which are: using a snagged fabric or knit as it is; intentionally snagging or tearing a fabric to make the effect of being snagged; knotting the tail or the edge of clothes, and then, macram$\grave{E}$; and cutting leather or suede, which canit be snagged easily, and making Fringe strands. Fringe strands which are made in the above ways are made into a band and then, attached, or Fringe strands, a feathers, a comb, or beads are attached one by one. Or a tassel is independently or consecutively applied to clothes or ornaments, which are expressed in the form of fringes. Threads, strings, leather, suede, metals, plastics, raffia, horsehair, paper, beads, pearls, crystals, or felt were used for rich texture or unique visual effects. Colors of various brightness and chromas were used in consideration of materials. Through the effects of sameness, similarity, contrast, harmony and gradation with colors of clothes, emphasis or unified harmony was expressed. The expressive characteristics of Fringe, which were found in the modern fashion through those formative characteristics, were organic rhythmical beauty, handicraft decorative beauty, and folksy natural beauty.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.926-933
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• 2011

The purpose of this research was to develop a smart wear equipped with wearable technologies for women in the age of 50's and 60's and confirm its acceptability. For this, we constructed a casual jacket that has the integration of heating and lighting function, and evaluated the user's satisfaction. The size of the heating device attached at the back of the jacket was 300 mm in width and 120 mm in length and the size of the one attached at the front abdomen was 180 mm in width and 120 mm in length. The power supplier was the unification of the battery and controller which have been waterproofed. The lighting device connected with LED was 26mm in width, 20 mm in length and 1.5 mm in thickness. It has been designed in a waterproofed rectangular shape and was attachable to the jacket. The satisfaction survey of a smart jacket has been conducted with three standards, which were convenience, appearance and practicality. Free physical movement among the standard of convenience had very high scores with the average of 4.7 on a five point-scale. The acceptability of the jacket was 4.6, which proved that it didn't have unique feelings compared to ordinary ones. The evaluation score of the appearance of the jacket was 4.5. Especially inside finishing of the jacket received the highest scores from all ages. According to the evaluation of practicality, there has been no change in the appearance of the jacket and the function of heating device after laundry.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.231-239
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• 2013

This research developed a smart girdle for adult women in their 20's that has an inserted carbon weaving heater to help with relief from coldness and abdominal disease through the thermal insulation effect. A pocket of powernet fabric was attached to the inside of the girdle for the easy insertion and separation of the heating device, while the heating device was fixed to a mesh material by cotton yarn and was wrapped with elastic lining material to prevent the mechanical devices from being exposed. A set of 3 hooks was attached to the center of the back of the heating device in consideration of convenience and mobility. Whereas the switch was inserted into around the right waistband, and the battery into the inner pocket around the waist, to integrate the heating device with the girdle. The satisfaction and usability of the fabricated smart girdle was verified by having research participants wear it to evaluate the appearance change caused by the device, the inconvenience of wearing/unwearing, mobility, and the satisfactory functionality of the device. As a result, the grand mean was evaluated to be high, with appearance (4.19), mobility (4.17), and functionality (4.51) being higher than 4.00; which indicates that the heat generation function of the smart girdle is effective. It may be said that such collection and analysis of data that reflect users' opinions have value and significance in that they can be grafted onto future research on new technology as well as they contribute to taking a step forward in the rapidly increasing research of smart clothing, with the new-type clothing equipped with new function.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.755-765
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• 2016

Recently, interest in monitoring health and sports is growing because of the emphasis on wellness, which is accelerating the development and commercialization of smart clothing for biosignal monitoring. In addition to exerciseeffect monitoring clothing that tracks heart rate and respiration, recently developed clothing makes it possible to monitor muscle balance using electromyogram (EMG). The electrode for EMG have to attached to an accurate location in order to obtain high-quality signals in surface EMG measurement. Therefore, this study develops monitoring clothing suitable for different types of human bodies and aims to extract suitable range of EMG according to movements in order to develop self-fitness monitoring clothing based on EMG measurement. This study identified and attached electrodes on six upper muscles and two lower muscles of ten males in their 20s. After selecting six main motions that create a load on muscles, the 8-ch wireless EMG system was used to measure amplitude value, noise, SNR and SNR (dB) in each part and statistical analysis was conducted using SPSS 20.0. As a result, the suitable range for EMG measurement to apply to clothing was identified as four parts in musculus pectoralis major; three parts in muscle rectus abdominis, two parts each in shoulder muscles, backbone erector, biceps brachii, triceps brachii, and musculus biceps femoris; and four part in quadriceps muscle of thigh. This was depicted diagrammatically on clothing, and the EMG-monitoring sensing locations were presented for development of self-fitness monitoring.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.98-105
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• 2021

This study investigates and analyzes user preferences for golf wear with a sense of wear and smart function for the development of smart golf wear based on user convenience. A survey was conducted on 124 males in the age range of 40-60s that consisted of professional golfers, amateur golfers and the public with golf experience (such as major golf consumers) from August 1 to August 30, 2019 (IRB NO. 1040198-190617-HR-057-03); consequently, a 117 copies were accepted for analysis. The findings are as follows. The elbow (4.3%) of golf wear is unsatisfactory. The important part of the golf swing motion is the shoulder (39.3)>, elbow (30.8%)>, and wrist (6.8%). In addition, the unsatisfactory wearing of golf wear due to golf swing movements indicated that the shoulder or elbow area was pulled or the bottom of the top was raised during the back swing movements. The survey results on the expected discomfort when wearing smart wear are 'discomfort of obstruction when wearing' (53.8%), 'discomfort of washing' (17.1%), and 'weight of attached machine' (13.7%). Opinions such as 'Will not feel good when the sensor is attached' were investigated. The examination of the preference for golf wear equipped with smart functions indicated that a posture correction function to correct the golf swing posture is the most desired quality that is also considered important when correcting posture.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.83-90
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is for fundamental research of meditation smart wear for physical and mental healing, and researching method for monitoring phase of meditation through textile by measuring the number of abdominal respiration when meditating. For this purpose, the research implemented Single Wall Carbon Nano-Tube (SWCNT) based strain gauges type textile sensor, considered reliability and validity of respiratory sensing, and analyzed efficiency of respiratory sensing based on body parts comparatively. The first preliminary experiment was to evaluate the performance of textile sensor through abdominal model dummy which open and shut of 5 cm repeatedly for 2 minutes at the rate of 0.1Hz in order to simulate abdominal respiration. It concluded signal efficiency between reference sensor(BIOPAC) and textile respiratory sensor appears statistically significant (p<0.001). The second experiment were conducted with 4 subjects doing abdominal respiration under same conditions, and after comparing the signal values between two sensors from 4 attached locations(around center and sides of omphali and phren), center of omphali and sides of phren were selected as suitable location for measuring meditational breathing as they showed large and stable signals. In result, this research aimed for implementing of the textile sensor for sensing meditational breathing of long respiration cycle, review of reliability and validity for sensing number of meditational respiration with the sensor and consideration of sensing efficiency by sensing location on body parts.