• Title/Summary/Keyword: art and craft

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Yoo Young-kuk's Early Constructivism: Utopianism in (1937) (유영국(劉永國)의 초기 구성주의: <랩소디>(1937)에 나타난 유토피아니즘)

  • 유영아
    • The Journal of Art Theory & Practice
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    • no.9
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    • pp.93-121
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    • 2010
  • This study is about Yoo Young-kuk's early works which show constructivism, especially focus on his debut painting, for the 7th Dokuritsu Bijutsu Kyokai(獨立美術協會, the Independent Fine Arts Association) in Tokyo in 1937. The work was painted 2 years after he had started his study in Japan in 1935. It was the first painting that applied Constructivism. played an important role for Constructivism to be a leading art in his abstraction. After this picture, Yoo was soon devoted to the principles of Constructivism-- Faktura(material), Tektonika (tectonics), Tekhnika(technique), space, construction-- in his painterly reliefs. This article examined why Yoo concentrated on Constructivism for , what the characteristics were, and what influences were on other works from 1935 to 1949. In addition, I investigated in which period was painted and how Constructivism was spread in 1930s and early 1940s in chapter 2. I scrutinized Rhapsody in chapter 3. When Yoo created Japan was under the Fifteen Years War(1931-1945), and a major discourse was the Japanese Spirit at that time. It was connected with construction of an ideal nation which the Japanese ultra-national fascism pursued. This ideological pursuit was intended to unite the Japanese people for total war system and to restore a national dignity which had been fallen down due to Manchurian Incident(1931). Thus, on the hand, Kokusai Bunka Shinkokai(國際文化振興, The Society for International Cultural Relations) and the Nippon Kosaku Bunka Renmei(日本工作文化連盟, Japanese Werkbund) were supported financially by the Japanese government. On the other hand, the government enacted regulations to opposing parties which would distract Japanese people's unification. As for the Japanese art world, the merge of art groups was carried out through remodeling of Teikoku Bijutsuin(帝國美術院, The Imperial Fine Arts Academy) in 1935. This brought out continuous dispute and disorder. Young artists who felt difficulty of entering an entry of Imperial Fine Arts Exhibition repeatedly grouped and disbanded for small art groups to build their standing, which they pursued Surrealism and Abstract art. Among them Constructivism was considered as the latest trend and was popular in craft, design, architecture as well as fine arts. In the year before he painted , Avant-garde theatres including Constructivism theatre were introduced in a feature article of September, 1936 in Atelier, which was dealing with mainly avant-garde arts. Books related with Constructivism were translated into Japanese, and Gestaltung Education had become active since the publication of A Compendium of Gestaltung Education("構成敎育大系"(1934)), Salvador Dali(1904-1989) was also introduced, so Surrealism was drawn more attention by young artists. reflected popular trends. Yoo analyzed the Japanese avant-gardists' archaic taste in the Independent Art Association that he submitted his painting to. And then he entitled 'Rhapsody' which derives from Ancient Greek's epic poetry and deliberately set up images in a scene. In chapter 3, I examined a theme which was planned carefully by sorting favorite images from the Japanese Surrealism. was a result that Yoo Young-kuk observed objectively the phenomenon that young artists dreamt of Utopia or longed for Nostalgia passively and lethargically under wars. And then he otherized himself from that circumstance. First of all, for he used the typical icons of Japanese Surrealism such as the horizon, flowing clouds, and vast plain that were considered stereotypes of Arcadia. He, however distinguished himself form those Japanese Surrealists. He made his own vision about Utopia by referring Lyubov Popova(1889-1924)'s stage design. His objective point of view was expressed by positive and dynamic images of structure and human's actions. Constructivism which was attempted in had an effect on other early constructive works, and the principles of Constructivism were sought hard in reliefs, paintings, and photos.

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A Trend of Combining New Technology and Traditional Craft in Modem Japanese Industrial Textiles (일본 현대 산업직물에 나타난 신기술과 전통공예의 접목 경향)

  • Park, Nam-Sung
    • Archives of design research
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    • v.20 no.1 s.69
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    • pp.229-242
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    • 2007
  • In Japan, a country renowned for her traditional respect for handicraft, superior craft techniques have been transmitted from generation to generation. Modern Japanese textiles reinterprete these traditional techniques in a new light and combine them with modern technology, to make modern Japanese industrial textile both futuristic and traditional simultaneously. This combining of new technology and handicraft serves as a reservoir for a remarkable diversity and originality in the development of new technology and design, and constitutes an important trend in modern industrial textiles. The aim of this study is to investigate the developmental background of Japanese textile industry that championed this trend to make the Japanese development unique in modern textile industries and to consider the concept of modern textiles as well as the structural innovation as represented by this new trend, thus contributing to the development of creative textiles for the present and the future. The findings of this study can be summarized as follows. The combining of new technology and traditional handicraft: 1) was made possible by Japanese consciousness that values traditional culture and by early recognition of advanced textile industry, which awarded new meaning and value to the traditional handicraft leading to an expanded social role for textiles. 2) helped construct a modern concept of textiles by pursuing textile media that are state-of-the-art, aesthetic, and highly sensitive to satisfy the requirements of modern industrial textile such as high quality, high performance, and high sensitivity. 3) enabled new design ideas and creation of new styles by implementing structural innovation in industrial textiles that involved diversification of expression, diversity in materials, and emphasis on texture. In short, by combining new technology and traditional handicraft, Japan came up with a new sense of aesthetics that is highly original and high level and with which the rest of the world can easily sympathize, thereby presenting one of the most important guiding principles for future textiles.

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A Case Study on The Reinterpretation of Boro in Modern Fashion - Between 2011 and 2016 - (현대 패션에서 나타나는 보로의 재해석 사례 연구 - 2011~2016년의 사례 중심으로 -)

  • Kim, Jae-yoon;Kim, Sun-Mee
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.19 no.2
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    • pp.29-37
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    • 2017
  • Due to the pursuit of individuality by modern consumers, the day has come when it is hard for design to be sustained solely by external beauty. Accordingly, products with the psychological value and brand stories are appearing, so that products that reinterpret traditional crafts are now being appreciated for their merits. Handmade goods defined as new luxury goods or products of high-quality craftsmanship are being used to enhance the consumer's individual image, and has created an unprecedented consumer stratum structure. Japan is one of the countries that actively applies traditional crafts to contemporary design and this study aims to investigate cases that are being reinterpreted in modern fashion in the theme of Boro, which is not as well known among Japanese traditional crafts. The purpose of this study is to offer basic data for designers by investigating the cases of the reinterpretation of traditional crafts. In addition, in reinterpreting traditional crafts into other fields, it is regarded as a meaningful way to contribute to a variety of other ideas. As the research method, first, the definition and kind of Boro were investigated utilizing the related literature information about the traditional fabric of Boro, which is the starting point and basis of the research. Second, Japanese aesthetic sense defined in the previous research was classified and the relationship of the anti-decorative aesthetic sense and Boro investigated. Third, after classifying the reinterpretation cases of Boro that have appeared in four major fashion collections and designer brands from 2011 to 2016 by the selected aesthetic sense, its characteristics were investigated. The search for examples of the reinterpretation of Boro uses the results of the keyword search of Boro and Boro Fashion via the internet search engine Google from April 2016 to December 2016. In addition, the search results were selected on the basis of whether the designer specified borrowing from Boro or whether Boro on the collection order was included or not. In addition to introducing an unknown fabric craft, this study also raises the methodological problems of the reinterpretation of traditional crafts. Products containing psychological value are expected to come into the spotlight in the upcoming consumer market. Therefore, as a follow-up study, it is suggested to research examples in which various crafts are being applied as products before one knows, how this creates new originality, and the limitations involved in this.

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Development and Effects of the Project to Increase Lacquer Production During the Japanese Colonial Era (일제강점기 옻칠 증산(增産) 사업의 전개와 영향)

  • KANG, Yeongyeong
    • Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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    • v.55 no.3
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    • pp.22-44
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    • 2022
  • Lacquer, in addition to high-end crafts such as lacquerware inlaid with mother-of-pearl, was an important strategic material used in a wide range of fields such as industry, architecture, and munitions during the Japanese colonial era. In particular, as the demand for lacquer used in munitions soared in the 1940s when the war started, a ticket system was introduced to restrict its distribution. Meanwhile, Japan experienced a chronic shortage of lacquer as a result of the rapidly increasing demand for it, and thus went on to import Chinese lacquer after the late 19th century. After the 1910s, the market share of Chinese lacquer reached 90%, and the local situation in China began to affect the supply and demand for lacquer in Japan. To counteract the issue, the Japanese government increased the production of lacquer in Joseon. As for the project to increase lacquer production in Joseon, objective indicators were prepared through a number of tests in the 1910s and 20s, which paved the way for the project to begin in earnest in the 1930s. Lacquer trees were planted and training classes on how to collect lacquer were held throughout the country. The Japanese government promoted the lacquer production industry as a promising side job for Koreans. The project, implemented in various parts of the country, reaped fruitful results, and it provided the basis for lacquer production in Korea that has continued to this day. At that time, the major regions in the southern part of the country where the project was concentrated were Wonju, Okcheon, and Hamyang, regions that are still known today as major production sites. The improved method of collecting lacquer taught to Koreans by the Japanese has now become the main method of collecting lacquer in Korea. This study attempts to identify the current status of the project to increase lacquer production through various records from the Japanese colonial era with a view to contributing to the study of modern lacquer craft history.

Development of Korean Style Loungewear (Part II)

  • Chae, Keum-Seok;Na, Yooshin
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.36 no.12
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    • pp.1247-1256
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    • 2012
  • The paper details the development of a Korean style loungewear based on traditional Korean hanbok clothing. For this, we surveyed and collected data from 3,500 adults over 20 years of age. The questions were on their preferences of hanbok for both traditional and contemporary styles as well as loungewear. The survey showed that preferences for hanbok were high for both traditional and contemporary styles. The survey also suggests how a successful mass-produced Korean style loungewear should be designed to increase its popularity. It should feature comfortably simplified silhouettes, a selection of contemporary colors from Korean symbolic colors, modernized Korean textile surface designs, and easy-to-maintain healthy fabric. Based on these results, the development direction of Korean style loungewear was set and various loungewear samples were produced. Another group of survey participants were asked to try on samples and their preferences were surveyed. At the conclusion, a version that was most preferred among the participants was obtained. We suggest one-piece style and two-piece style designs with silhouettes based on the characteristics of traditional Korean costumes. The preferred fabric for loungewear was natural and soft cotton. We suggest the necessity and effectiveness of loungewear made with environment-friendly hanji-fabric. The main colors for loungewear were selected based on survey: blue, red, white, and saekdong (color stripes). We made color combinations with the main colors then applied the textile surface designs. The traditional Korean patterns of Hangeul (Korean letters), taegeuk (yin-yang), geometric figures, and samjogo (three-legged crow) were also chosen, and then loungewear using the textile designs was developed. The results have been shown on the "Han Style Fashion Show" by Jeonju City and exhibited in the "Seoul Living Design Fair" and the "International Art & Craft Trend Fair" in COEX, Seoul.

A Study on Changes in the Fashion Market Viewed from the Perspective of Big Blur (빅블러 관점으로 바라본 패션 시장의 변화에 관한 연구)

  • Park, Yonjin;Kan, Hosup
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.24 no.4
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    • pp.144-160
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    • 2020
  • Today, the development of innovative technologies is accompanied by changes in the industrial structure and the Big Blur phenomenon, where the boundaries in various fields are blurred. The purpose of this study was to view the Big Blur phenomenon as a big paradigm shift in the 21st century and derive environmental changes and characteristics of the Korean fashion market. The research method included an analysis of the fashion brands after 2015. Through this study, we intended to establish a framework for understanding the changes in the fashion market from the perspective of Big Blur and discuss the direction of brand marketing. The research results showed the hyperlinks, connectivity, openness, homeostasis, synchronicity, mobility, interactivity, and brand experience of online and offline spaces beyond the boundaries of virtual space and offline physical spaces such as online physical and spatial viewpoints. It also showed the characteristics. The characteristics from the socio-cultural point of view were characteristic of diversity, mixture, coexistence, composability, and pluralism beyond the traditional socio-cultural and regulatory scopes. Hip hop fashion, street fashion, unisex, genderless, androgynous fashion, and kid fashion are the backbone of the Big Blur and are becoming important factors in fashion. The characteristics of the market and economic viewpoint are prosumers that play roles both as producers and consumers. It shows the extensibility of consumers as producers, the cohesiveness of producers and consumers, the cooperation, and the interconnectivity.

A Study on the Visual Characteristics of Camouflage Patterns in Fashion Design (패션에 나타난 카무플라주 패턴의 시각적 표현특성)

  • Choi, Jung-Hwa
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.15 no.5
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    • pp.682-693
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    • 2013
  • Camouflage is evaluated by scientific principle in the fields of biology, military science, and art. It has a strong influence on contemporary fashion and means exposure with concealment. This study analyzed the visual characteristics of camouflage patterns in fashion design through documentaries and fashion photos. The fashion design results areas follow. The simple blending of a disruptive motif indicated an inaccurate repetition of a disruptive motif, the discontinuous or continuous connection of disruptive motif, the irregular repetition of a disruptive animal silhouette, the collage of a different disruptive motif, the craft of a disruptive motif and the intensive color match of a disruptive motif. It represented the maximization of complication, fantastic and fanciness. The overlap of a disruptive motif showed the overlap of disruptive print patterns with transparency and an overlap of different fabrics with a disruptive pattern. It represented spatial relationships of three dimensions as well as the maximization of visual illusion and the reinforcement of attractiveness. The blurring of a disruptive motif showed the pointage of disruptive motif, the pointage of image, value gradation, the whole blurring of a disruptive pattern cluster and stained appearance. It represented the obscurity of motif form, the uncertainty of object and double meaning. The trompe l'oeil of a partial background object showed the realistic and the painterly imitation of color and texture for partial objects through a close-up. It represented amazement and pleasure by illusion, scarcity and the decoration of surface and synecdochical remind. In conclusion, camouflage in fashion was weakened and modified from a classical military context by a unique expression of various motifs.

The Influence of the Victorian Pattern on the Modern Textile Product Designs (빅토리안 문양(文樣)이 현대(現代) 텍스타일 제품(製品) 디자인에 미친 영향(影響))

  • Eom, Kyoung-Hee;Shin, Sang-Hee
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.8 no.4
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    • pp.68-79
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    • 2004
  • This study aims to understand the history of the Victorian age that attached importance to various designs and aesthetic aspects by art and craft movement, and to present that the Victorian pattern is a factor with unlimited possibility in application and development of the modern textile product designs. Therefore, through documents research home and abroad, I considered the periodical background of the Victorian style, a change course of textile, and the theoretical backing of the Victorian pattern, and I studied and analyzed the cases of being applied in the modern textile product designs by classifying apparel, home interior, and fashion accessories. First of all, in apparel, the Victorian pattern transformed into geometrical form had much relative importance, and secondly, in the home interior, the Victorian pattern was expressed realistically or it was represented more boldly and complexly with new materials or techniques introduced. Thirdly, in fashion accessories, decorative nature was shown in intense design with the real description of the Victorian flower pattern and brilliant colors. With these results, it was found out that when the Victorian pattern was applied in the modern textile product designs, it was the factor that could be expected to make a high value added suitable with the modern sense, and it was the pattern with developmental potential with its unlimited use range. Therefore, based on this study, it is considered that the development of textile product designs utilizing the Victorian pattern and academic research, reorganizing the Victorian pattern in accordance with the modern design should be continued.

A Study on Modernism of Gabrielle Chanel - Focusing on her Fashion Business - (가브리엘 샤넬의 모더니즘 - 패션 비즈니스를 중심으로 -)

  • Lee, Mi-Sook;Cho, Kyu-Hwa
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.1 no.3
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    • pp.1-18
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    • 1997
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate Modernism of Gabrielle Chanel in respect to her fashion business. Chanel always considered the work of a fashion designer 'a technique, a craft, a trade' and chastised couturiers who looked upon themselves as artists. She was the first to cater to the public in its broader sense and to produce standard which appealed to every taste, the first to democratize the art of dressmaking for purely economic reasons. The results were as follows; 1. Chanel personified ~his new spirit of independence and evolved a style of dress for the modern, liberated woman. 2. Chanel excelled at fabrics, their interpretation, and an ability to use them. She had taken a humble material, one that was used by men and that they had shunned, and turned it into a fashionable fabric. In the process she also accelerated the growth of the ready-to-wear industry for it was a fabric within the financial reach of the majority of woman who wanted to dress fashionably but were not well off. 3. Chanel thought black chic and would never go out of fashion. As American Vogue for 1 October 1926 prognosticated, her little black dress became a kind of uniform. 4. Chanel represented an exception among couturiers because she was flattered that her styles were so popular and widely copied. She believed that her style would be affirmed by high-street copies-after all, copying is the sincerest form of flattery. 5. Chanel changed the concept of costume jewellery. It was not an original idea of Chanel's. Whereas Poiret had pioneered the original idea of costume jewellery, it was Chanel's avant-garde way with it not to mention her usual deceptive simplicity and supreme artistry that made costume jewellery evolve a successful and lucrative part of the fashion industry.

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The Age Estimation and Conservation Treatment of Suit Worn by Yu Rim (1898-1961), National Registered Cultural Heritage Item No. 609 (국가등록문화재 제609호 유림(柳林) 양복 보존처리와 제작시기 고찰)

  • Lee, Ryangmi;An, Boyeon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.45 no.4
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    • pp.573-585
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    • 2021
  • This paper describes the processes conducted in the analysis and conservation of suit worn by Yu Rim (1898-1961). The suit consists of a jacket and pants and is a typical Mao-style suit for independence activists; it is notable in that it was made of domestic wool. Inside the jacket, there is a machine embroidery of the name "Danju," a label of synthetic resin which reads "Daegu citizen's tailor's shop," and buttons engraved with "PUSAN SIN-HUNG." According to our textile analysis, the outer layer is composed of worsted wool while the lining is made from acetate. Damage to the garment from malodor and insects has been repaired, and the suit has been restored to its original shape by a conservation treatment that has reinforced the textiles. This conservation case can provide valuable research data on the preservation of modern and contemporary clothing. In addition, this study also attempts to estimate the date of suit worn by Yu Rim's production by comparing it with woolen suits produced around the same time and examining the clues associated with the relics. This is significant since it enhances the value of the cultural assets and provides detailed information on the historical transformation of domestic suits.