• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.229-234
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• 2002

An investigation was made of the angle of bias on the lower part of the armhole line of the back bodice and that on the lower part of the sleeve cap curve line by cap heights, and then it was made of the lock stitch seam strength and elongation on the matching angles, the stitch density (26 stitches/3cm, 19 stitches/3cm, 14 stitches/3cm, and the samples (a cotton fabric and two kinds of cotton mixed polyester fabric). The matching angles of the machine-sewed samples are $30^{\circ}/-30^{\circ}$, $30^{\circ}/-45^{\circ}$, $45^{\circ}/-45^{\circ}$ and $60^{\circ}/-60^{\circ}$ by the analysis of the angles of bias on the lower part of the armhole seam. In view of the results of the seam strength and elongation, the reasonable sewing condition of the lower part of the armhole seam was 19 stitches/3cm.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.105-115
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• 2008

Men's outer wear, such as jackets and coats appeared since the 16th century. They have been changed from doublets, coats, justaucorps, tail-coats, frock coats and morning coats to contemporary men's suits. Since the early 17th century, sleeve patterns of men's outer jackets had been mostly two-pieces close fitted patterns. The purpose of this article is to compare sleeve patterns of various jackets, which appear in various historic costume books. Armhole measurements, sleeve head measurements, amounts of ease, armhole depths, armhole widths, crown heights, sleeve width and sleeve angle had been compared to find out the differences among patterns of different times and styles. Coming to the present, the difference between top sleeve and under sleeve became more obvious, and the sleeve angle became less curvy. Another interesting point is that there had been considerable amounts of ease, which is the difference between sleeve head measurements and corresponding armhole measurements. It is because the sleeve has been attached to the armhole not by seam but by string. It is believed that the present sleeves have more natural curve and shape compared to the past.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.137-144
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• 2002

This study was to provide the fundamental data for a scientific and rational clothing construction by investigating the variation of the upper body surface with the use of the method of Surgical tape. The subject were 3 middle elementary schoolboys classified standard somatotype, and arm-movements were consisted of 6 types. The statistical analyses used in this study were mean, standard deviation and the ANOVA and LSD procedure. Shoulder point was moved to be the inside or upside and the shape of the armhole-line was differently changed as the arm-movement become larger. By moving to upside of the anterior armpit point, posterior armpit point and armpit point, the increase of the side seam length and the ascent of the line of width between armpits were distinct. And by arm-movements, in the items of horizontal, front neck base girth, back upper bust girth, back bust girth and back waist girth were increased and the other standard lines were apt to be decreased. In the items of vertical, all standard lines of front side and side seam length showed increased, back waist length and back length showed decreased. The variation of armhole was indefinite. In the rate of the variation, the shoulder length showed the maximum rate of contraction by 41.3%, decreasing 3.7 cm in $180^{\circ}$ degrees, and the side seam length showed the maximum rate of expansion by 60.6%, increasing 8.97 cm in the same degrees.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.249-263
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• 1996

According to the design method for constructing the G gori(the traditional Korean jacket)collar, there are differences in form after its completion. In the construction design of the midsection of the gusset as in that of the basic G gori, not only was the positioning of the two sides of the collar not smooth, but also, when the collar strip was attached, there would be an imbalance on one side or the other so that it was difficult to achieve symetry. Therefore in this project, by applying the pattern design of the gusset midsection to that of the collar midsection, not only did attaching the collar and the collar strip create a visual effect by equalizing the lengths of the tow sides, but the construction was also easy. This method of construction introduces the three-dimensional aspect of the human form in its conic, spherical and cylindrical aspects, so that, through schematizing the scientific character of Korea's clothing, its appropriateness is verified. As a matter of fact, since th-ere in no standardization of pattern whether for educational use or for mass-produced clothing, so that even the patterns used in computer-assisted design are executed according to the designer's personal skill, the reality is that after completion of construction the quality has not been uniform. For this schematization, inverse calculation of measurements pertaining to the calculation formula and of teaching materials has been referenced. In particular, the partial requlation of the calculation formula pertaining to the basic pattern construction, the method of making the collar midsection, and the construction method of the extreme and mean ratio adjustment can be adjusted for all measurements, thereby providing the establishment of a design criterion and the possibility of the standardization of construction methods. The production method for the pattern design is as follows: 1) The conic angle for the G gori's girth, length and neck width is fixed at 70 degrees. 2) The radius of the cone is B/2. 3) The calculation formula is B/4 + 1.5cm 4) The armhole formula is B/4, the same as in the basic method. 5) The width formula is B/10. 6) The ratio of the collar junction(width of collar + width of collar strip)to the gusset length is 5:8. 7) The length of the side seam is a length intersecting the armhole line and the conic radius (B/2), that is an arc that exceeds the length of the G gori's midsection; the component ratio of this length to the collar junction is accordingly 13:5. 8) The curve frame length of the back midsection is an arc exceeding B/4(the armhole line). 9) The ratio of the sleeve opening calculation formula to the armhole length is 8:5, forming an arc with the midsection length.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.8
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• pp.29-39
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• 2002

It was increased leisure hours by automation and computerization of industry. Many people spend on hours in enjoying leisure sports, and then. nowadays, Many women tend to prefer casual wear to formal suits. The purpose of this research was to design of outdoor-wear that improve the functional and aesthetic effects for clothing comfort. Total 4 design prototype consisting of jumper and slacks were developed for this research. Outdoor-wear design forced on armhole type of jumper and ease of the back crotch length of slacks to improve the functional and aesthetic effects. And Outdoor-wear design focused on color harmony to aesthetic effects. Ease amount and materials of jumper and slacks were controlled. Design A: Jumper was designed as dropped shoulder with set-in steeve and band collar, A break-away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the area of back of jumper and the area of outside seam line of slacks Color of jumper and slacks were olive green color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 7% of total crotch length: Design B 4DM cut pattern were applied to the jumper and slacks pattern. A break-away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the area of back of jumper and the area of inside seam line of thigh. Color of jumper and slacks were grey and orange color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Design C : Jumper was designed as the set in sleeve and hood. and A break- away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the ares of the armhole and elbow. Color of jumper and slacks were ivory and orange color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Design D : Jumper was designed as raglan sleeve. Color of jumper and slacks were olive green color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Total six females, ages 20-45, served as subjects for this research. Subjects have standard body type, generally, wearing 66 size of ready-to-wear clothing. The performance of the newly designed outdoor-wear was evaluated for their effectiveness in several aspects such as conditions of skin temperature, sensory evaluation of comfort during body movements, appearance and color harmony and aesthetic collar design. Design 3 was appeared to be the most positive in aesthetic evaluation and functional effects of design 2 of 4DM cut pattern was appeared to be beter than other designs.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.35-50
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to investigate the result of a market research on men's jacket in their age of 25 to 35, who wear fitted jackets most, and to examine the comparative analysis of pattern and the wearing evaluation between classic jacket and fitted jacket. The results are as follows; Firstly, according to the results of a market research, 32.0% of the target owned fitted jackets, and 28.7% expressed their desire to buy only fitted jackets. This means their concern and preference for fitted jacket with which they could show up young, fresh and slim look are as high as those for classic jacket. Secondly, classic jacket showed the higher value than fitted jacket in such items as chest girth, waist girth, hip girth, sleeve's hem girth, jacket length, shoulder length, side seam length, and across shoulder point length. On the other hand, fitted jacket showed the higher value than classic jacket in back armhole length, front length, collar point length and sleeve's vent length. Thirdly, classic jacket was larger than fitted jacket in 1/2 chest girth(1.0cm), 1/2 waist girth(2.0cm), 1/2 hip girth(1.0cm), back width(0.5cm), front width(0.5cm) and side width(1.0cm). However, fitted jacket was higher than classic jacket in the armhole depth(0.5). Fourthly, the results of appearance evaluation revealed that there was a significant difference in 6 items. In other words, classic jacket was evaluated more appropriate than fitted jacket in such items as back width, back length, back neck depth, chest girth, waist girth and hip girth. And the fitted jacket had a higher value than the classic jacket in shoulder angle item. Fifthly, In the functional evaluation, fitted jacket was evaluated more uncomfortable than classic jacket. And this means that fitted jacket doesn't have a proper ease amount in each part and it has a high armhole depth compared to classic jacket. Therefore, for more comfortable patternmaking of fitted jackets, it would be required a pattern design which reflect men's own shoulder lines and women designers' flexibility that will satisfy both appearance and function.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.63-77
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• 1992

The purpose of this study is to improve clothing construction by analyzing form variation of upper trunk & upper arms with the use of plaster cast. Experimental research was performed by plaster gypsum method. The subjects were males between age 21 and 25, classified Standard somatotype by their bust size and Rorher Index. Arm movements were consisted of 5 types(0$^{\circ}$, 45$^{\circ}$, 90$^{\circ}$, 135$^{\circ}$, 180$^{\circ}$) to each vertical motion in front. The statistical analyses used in this study were mean, standard deviation, repeated mesure design. The result obtained from this study were as follows; 1. As a result of investigating into the rate of the expantion and contraction of basic body-surfact-lines, the side seam length showed the maxium rate of expantion in 180$^{\circ}$ degrees, the shoulder length showed the maxium contraction in the same degrees. 2. The variation of the upper part of the body form by increasing the upper limb motions, shoulder point was moved to be the inside or upside. And the anterior armfit point, posterior armfit point and armfit point were moved to upside. The form of the armhole-line in Drafts of a body surface was differently changed by increasing the movements. 3. Increasing the upper limb motions, the height of sleeve cap decresed and width of the sleeve decreased but girths of the sleeve cap was not show consistant change.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.55-79
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• 2000

This study is the design research for the practical use of Casual Hanbok. The conclusion of basic research for Casual Hanbok design reads as follows. Today's college women are fairly positive to the practical use of Casual Hanbok. Especially, they are strongly interested in the new design and have the active intention to wear it on actually. The concrete design of every parts of Casual Hanbok which is wanted by college women is as follows. Firstly, college women like well matched two-piece dress style in colors. And they want to decide the coloration independently than to follow the traditional coloration passively. Secondly, according to the design of jacket, sometimes they like the presence of a collar, a collar strip, a gore etc. and at other times they like absence of them. Thirdly, the side line of jacket they like and the seam line of sleeve they like is smoothly curved one and the adjusting means they like is a fancy button. Fourthly, the length of jacket they like reaches to their waist and the width of an armhole they like must be convenient for moving of arm. Fifthly, one out of two college women likes mixed spinning fabrics as material for jacket, skirt, pants. In the other hand, one out of five college women likes cotton. Sixthly, the skirt style they like is A ­line one having from two to four gathers on the waist and the length of skirt they like reaches to their ankle or calf of the leg. Seventhly, the pants style they like is the western style but the hem line of pants is the korean traditional pants style.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.37 no.7
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• pp.17-27
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• 1999

According to the design method for constructing the Korean Men's Jo-go-ri(the traditional Korean jacket)collar, there are differences in form after its completion. In the construction design of the midsection of the gusset as in that of the basic pattern Jo-go-ri, not only was the positioning of the two sides of the collar not smooth, but also, when the collar strip(Dongjung) was attached, there would be an imbalance on one side or the other so that it was difficult to achieve symmetry. Therefore in this project, by applying the pattern design of the gusset midsection to that of the collar midsection, not only did attaching the collar(Kit) and the collar strip create a visual effect by equalizing the lengths of the two sides, but the construction was also easy. This method of construction introduces the three-dimensional aspect of the human form in its conic, spherical and cylindrical aspects, so that, through schematizing the scientific character of Korea's clothing, its appropriateness is verified. As a matter of fact, since there is no standardization of pattern whether for educational use or for mass-produced clothing, so that even the patterns used in computer-assisted design are executed according to the designer's personal skill, the reality is that after completion of construction the quality has not been uniform. For this schematization, inverse calculation of measurements pertaining to the calculation formula and of teaching materials has been referenced. In particular, the partial regulation of the calculation formula pertaining to the basic pattern construction, the method of making the collar midsection, and the construction method of the extreme and mean ratio adjustment, can be adjusted for all measurements, thereby providing the establishment of a design criterion and the possibility of the standardization of construction methods. The production method for the basic pattern design is as follows: 1) The conic angle for the Jo-go-ri's girth, length end neck width is fixed at 70(72) degree. 2) The radius of the cone is sleeve length. 3) The bust girth calculation formula is B/4 + 2.5 cm. 4) The armhole formula is B/4 + 2.5cm. 5) The neck width formula is B/10. 6) The ratio of the collar junction{width of collar(Kit) + width of collar strip(Dongjung) to the gusset length is 5:8. 7) The length of the side seam is a length intersecting the armhole line and the conic radius of sleeve length, that is an arc that exceeds the length of the Jo-go-ri's midsection.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.285-298
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• 2012

Considerable number of women are enjoying swimming, however, the chest-region of swimsuits including cup inserts are not stable during swimming. The purpose of this study was to explore alternate designs and methods of stabilizing the breast cup to the swimmer's body by using 3D technology to design and position the pad and cup pattern of the swimming suit. To position the pad optimally, a 3D pattern of a nude woman was divided into blocks and different reduction rates were applied to blocks around the outlines of the breast. Two types of 3D patterns were developed. The first, referred to as the 'basic 3D pattern' provided for the curved surface of the breast point to be maintained with the remaining slack distributed evenly along the neckline, armhole and side seam. The second, referred to as the '1/3 shoulder moved 3D pattern' ignored the curved nature of the breast point by overlapping, with the resulting position of the shoulder strip moved toward the center. Three women of corresponding size and body shape evaluated the two 3D pattern designs as well as the conventional 2D pattern style of swimsuit. Respondents rated the'the basic 3D pattern' design highest in terms of stability and easy of movement in the chest region.