• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.68-75
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• 2008

Demands and attempts to express Korean traditional beauty are increasing. Some schools choose the uniform in designs expressing the image of Hanbok, but recently there is a few increment of wearing the uniforms. For the improvement of the uniforms, first of all, the shape and the clothing materials of the uniforms should be considered. We have compared and analyzed the shape and the clothing materials of the uniforms reflecting the image of Hanbok, according to seasons and clothing items. The uniforms reflecting the image of Hanbok were worn in eight schools and all of them are Saenghwal Hanbok style. The shape of Saenghwal Hanbok school uniforms showed both Korean style and western style characteristics. Korean style characteristics were expressed through the appearance-related parts while western style characteristics showed through the performance-related parts such as open/closure method, armhole pattern and straight sleeve line. It was shown that girls' uniforms are more diverse and similar to the western style uniforms than boys' uniforms. It was found that most of the clothing material were synthetic fiber or mixture of natural/synthetic fiber, and polyester was shown to be used most.

• 복식
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• 제52권2호
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• pp.59-70
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• 2002

For the purpose of providing basic data for the development of size specifications for middle-aged women in Busan, one dimensional measurements were made with the subjects. ranging 45 to 59 in age. The following are the conclusions : 1) According to ages, the middle and elder groups of the middle-aged women shared similar body types, having shorter height, more lowered bust. and increased upper-body depth and girth factors, compared with the earlier middle-aged women group. But the thigh girth of the elder middle-aged group (age: 55∼59) was the lowest, maybe owing to the aged lower-body muscles. 2) In the comparison with national averages. armhole girth, elbow girth, wrist girth. back waist length, side neck point-B.P.-waist line, and sleeve length showed great differences. This is problematic in that the national size standards fail to reflect each legion\`s peculiar body type characteristics. 3) Even though body types were classified according to drop value criteria suggested by KS specifications, 23.05% did not belong to the criteria. They were thus classified as A, N, and H body types, following the distribution of the present experiment. 4) In consideration of the economy factor of the production and sales of the clothes industry, the combinations of height and chest garth for the middle-aged Busan women were as follows: 155cm-85cm (Body Type A) 150cm-88cm (Body Type N), and 155cm-94cm (Body Type H).

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.167-181
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• 2011

This study had researched purchase trend and preference of jacket design in order to develop a prototype of an outdoor wear jacket that can be worn for a light outdoor activity targeting middle-aged men and women. An outdoor wear was purchased mostly in a permanent discount store and functionality such as activity and material was considered as important in addition to design. There was difference in ages for the jacket style, but in general, people preferred a wind protection jacket and men preferred black colors and women preferred red colors. For the design of jacket, both men and women had preferred a jacket that has moderate fitness with detachable hat and a zipper, and it was applied to the prototype. The jacket had applied different color in the armhole line that is connected to sleeve in order to make waist look slimmer and stretchable material was used to improve functionality in the armpit part.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제30권3호
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• pp.63-77
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• 1992

The purpose of this study is to improve clothing construction by analyzing form variation of upper trunk & upper arms with the use of plaster cast. Experimental research was performed by plaster gypsum method. The subjects were males between age 21 and 25, classified Standard somatotype by their bust size and Rorher Index. Arm movements were consisted of 5 types(0$^{\circ}$, 45$^{\circ}$, 90$^{\circ}$, 135$^{\circ}$, 180$^{\circ}$) to each vertical motion in front. The statistical analyses used in this study were mean, standard deviation, repeated mesure design. The result obtained from this study were as follows; 1. As a result of investigating into the rate of the expantion and contraction of basic body-surfact-lines, the side seam length showed the maxium rate of expantion in 180$^{\circ}$ degrees, the shoulder length showed the maxium contraction in the same degrees. 2. The variation of the upper part of the body form by increasing the upper limb motions, shoulder point was moved to be the inside or upside. And the anterior armfit point, posterior armfit point and armfit point were moved to upside. The form of the armhole-line in Drafts of a body surface was differently changed by increasing the movements. 3. Increasing the upper limb motions, the height of sleeve cap decresed and width of the sleeve decreased but girths of the sleeve cap was not show consistant change.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.377-391
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to research grading work according to the targets of women's wear manufacturers in Korea. For the questionnaire, 91 women's wear brands, which were in higher ranking of sales, were selected, and the age groups were separated into 3: 20's, 30's, and 40's & 50's, according to their customers. The graders of each brand were questioned about 20 items for this research. The results of the questionnaire were as follows: 1 The brands for older women manufactured more sizes and cared more about somatotypes fur grading than other brands did. 2. For upper garments on the basis of bust girth, the numbers of dimensional increments were different depending on the age groups: 9 for 20's, 7 for 30's, and 7 for 40's & 50's. 3. For lower garments on the basis of hip girth, the numbers of dimensional increments were different depending on the age groups: 9 for 20's, 6 for 30's, and 5 for 40's & 50's. 4. As a model size of grading, many brands used the smallest size, but the brands for 40's & 50's also used the second size. 5. The parts needed to be corrected after grading were sleeve ease, armhole, shoulder line, neckline, crotch curve, etc. The grading with CAD system had more correction after grading than hand grading.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.142-152
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• 2006

The purpose of the study was to demonstrate how to recreate Spencer jacket of Empire Style in an attempt to apply this historic style to theatrical costumes and other high fashion items in modern times. The study was carried out through 2 steps. First, Literature, films and other visual information were utilized in order to classify the designs of Spencer jacket. Second, Production of Spencer jacket using patterns shown in literatures and those commercially used and commercial patterns were investigated to find out design characteristics of jackets. Results and discussions are as follows: The results showed that Spencer jacket can be categorized into following three styles: (1) Jackets having front opening without button stands and standing collar, (2) Double breasted opening and notched collar, (3) Single breasted opening and flat collar with waist band. The characteristics of Spencer jacket design were as follows: (1) Short jacket length, (2) Armhole line moved inwards, (3) Long fit shaped puff sleeves, whose puff being distributed more heavily over back of the sleeve, (4) Diamond shaped back bodice, which are consisted with princess lines and shoulder lines moved backwards.

• 복식
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• 제60권10호
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• pp.28-46
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• 2010

Variety and individuality are characteristic of consumer in modern society. For the necessity of new designed men's formal suit is on the rise with advance of party culture and change of wedding style. In addition to growing numbers of Korean grooms are getting more interested in make themselves well-groomed on the wedding ceremony. The purpose of this study is to develop the men's formal suit pattern for right fit and better style for Korean grooms. In order to find out how to modify their fit, comparison among the existing patterns was necessary. In this study we proposed new patterns of men's formal suit, a morning coat, a tail coat, tuxedoes, director's suit, three-peaces suit, navy blazer. Considering the results of this study, developed patterns were altered to fit better and to smarter. They were well graded in waistline position, shoulder shape, back princess line shape. Also they were best to move around sleeve and bodice. And the developed patterns were altered to make armhole narrower to make bodice length shorter, to make bodice slimmer. The researcher's pattern's were made up into garments using wool 100%, silk 100%. According to verify the improvements and grade better in both appearance and comport, it will be to take the lead men's formal dress culture and expand the base of popular consume for men's formal wear.

• 한국컴퓨터정보학회논문지
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.91-102
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to develop an excellent bodice prototype that is adapted to the body shape of middle-aged women using 3D measurement data. In the evaluation of appearance, S pattern 4.00, B pattern 2.80, E pattern 2.40, L pattern 1.40 were shown in order, and the best fit of S pattern was evaluated as excellent. As a result of looking at the color distribution chart to find out the amount, E pattern and S pattern were not space in the front bust, armhole, and the back waist line. The B pattern and the L pattern were marked in blue because of insufficiency space in the back neck. As a result of evaluation the amount of air gap in the clothing, the air gap of the bust was 0.12, which is the largest pattern of B. Next, the L pattern appears as a tight circle with smallest air gap in the order of the S pattern 0.096, the E pattern 0.08, and the L pattern 0.003. The S pattern was evaluated to be the most appropriate for the body shape of middle-aged women. But the waist and back were slightly tight. Middle-aged women have larger shoulder-related items and larger waist circumference. Therefore, when you set the perimeter item, you should add 1-2cm of space amount and give extra space to the circumference area.

• 복식
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• 제60권7호
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• pp.88-102
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• 2010

The research examines the characteristics of the sewing methods used for women's Jeogori in modern Korea. The results are following. In the 1920s sewing of shoulder parts was started, and in the 1930s sewing by hand had reduced by dissemination of sewing-machine, and in the 1940s the Som-jeogori declined by the matter of economic and sanitary issues. In the 1950s four-fold sewing emerged, and during the 1960s the gause-lined triple-layered Jeogori was in fashion, and in the 1970s the Ggaeggi-jeogori and much elaborated Jeogori became in vogue. The characteristics of the sewing methods are changed by following factors. First, the dissemination of sewing-machine in the 1930's enabled fast and precise sewing of Jeogori which reduced the rate of clothes mending and the production period. Second, by development of washing method, the dry cleaning became common, resulting cleaner washing and better preservation. Third, introduction of western clothes gave rise to modernized Han-bok which was changed into practical and simple one. Fourth, by the introduction of synthetic textile and industry development, Jeogori with no armhole line or right Seop line was made using wide selection of textiles. Fifth, in 1945~60s, women learned' good wife and wise mother' education and the use of sewing machine in school. The clothing lifestyle affected the sewing method's change, for example, clothes sewed strongly by sewing machine not to take clothes apart, and attaching button instead of Go-reum to save clothes.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.963-970
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to develop torso pattern of underweight female in their 20s~30s by using Clo 3D virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows; first, as a result of analyzing torso somatotype, underweight women showed lower average than average values of whole women in their twenties and thirties in the items such as length, width, circumference, thickness except for height. Second, by using 3D virtual garment simulation, new torso pattern considered underweight female was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows ; bust girth B/2+3.5, armhole depth B/4+0.5, front waist girth W/4+0.5+0.7, back waist girth W/4+0.5-0.7, front hip girth H/4+1+0.5, back hip girth H/4+1-0.5, chest width B/6+3.1, back width B/6+4.5, neck width B/12+0.2 and neck depth B/12+1.7. Third, by reducing hollowed amount of front, back, and side line, and hollowed amount of back center line, the reduced quantity was included to darts amount. Number of dart was adjusted to two pieces so that darts amount was equally distributed to two darts. Forth, according to the results of the new torso pattern's appearance evaluation, it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new torso pattern was appropriate for the underweight women. This study is expected to serve as one of important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D virtual garment simulation system with 2D patterns, and also for future 3D pattern production program development.