• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.1031-1040
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• 1997

This study was done to analyze the body surface developments of armhole area. The major conclusions of this study are: 1. The body surface developments showed the characteristics of expansion and contraction of body at armhole area. By arm movements, front armhole lines on the body surface developments of upper arm were slow going, but back armhole lines were full and round. As a whole, armhole line of the back torso was swollen outside especially at backarmpit point area, it seemed like a line of raglan sleeve. 2. Regression Analysis was carried out to adapt armhole line on the upper arm and upper body to bodice and sleeve pattern, following the axillary circumference line and chest breadth line changed to the basic pattern form. As the result, armhole lines of 90$^{\circ}$ and 135-180$^{\circ}$ movements deviated from those of standard posture. U-type, clear armhole curve of standard posture turned to V-type, slanting line by arm movements.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.7
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• pp.892-900
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• 1998

This study was done to analyze the surface development of upper arm for planning sleeve armhole line. The major conclusions of this study are: 1. The surface development by arm movements made the expansion and contraction of upper arm surface changes easily visible. Armhole lines of 90$^{\circ}$and 135$^{\circ}$~180$^{\circ}$movements deviated from those of standard posture. 2. According to regression analysis, armhole lines on the upper arm were adapted to sleeve patten, following the axillary circumference line changed to biceps line. Sleeve cap length ranged from armhole/4+2.5cm to armhole/4$\pm$0.5cm. 3. Compared to Rim's pattern method, ascending and descending amounts of armhole lines were represented as fixed values.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.6
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• pp.893-907
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• 2001

The main purpose is to study the effects of princess lines on different body types and to disguise any imperfection by using diverse princess lines. We separated testers body shapes into specific body types, H, Y by applying both the direct and the indirect measurements. These designs were evaluated by using the point ranking system method, and then average scores were obtained from these evaluations. Following are the results of the study: 1 These are the resulting illusion effects when the shoulder width of the Princess line was fixed. When the Princess line originated from 1/3 point of the armhole, body types Y appeared to show narrow waist width. A-line silhouette appeared to display the narrowest shoulder width. When the Princess line originated from 2/3 point of the armhole, body types H and Y appeared to exhibit narrowest waist widths, and the A-line silhouette once again displayed the narrowest shoulder width. When the Princess line originated from 1/2 point of the armhole, body type H appeared to exhibit narrow width; and H-line silhouette displayed the narrowest shoulder width 2. When the Princess lines waist w'4th was fixed in order to study illusion effects of waist widths. In this experiment, locations of Princess lines and widths of the skirt were varied. When the waist width was fixed at 6.5 cm, For the H body type, the Princess line location of 1/3 point of the armhole in H-line silhouette design exhibited the narrowest waist width. For the Y body type in A-line silhouette design, the Princess line locations of 1/3 and 1/2 points of the armhole exhibited the narrowest waist width because it displayed the hourglass effect. When the waist width was fixed at 10 cm, H body type did not exhibit any significant differences between designs. For Y body type, A-line silhouette design with the Princess line origination point at 1/3 down the armhole exhibited the narrowest waist width. 3. The illusion effects of the hip were studied by fixating the width of the skirt and varying the locations of Princess line and waist widths. In H-line skirt silhouette designs, all two body types exhibited narrow hips when the Princess line origination points were at 1/3 and 1/2 way down the armhole. For A-line skirt silhouette, H body type exhibited narrow hips when narrow waist design with the Princess line originating from 1/2 point in the shoulder was shown. Y body type exhibited narrow hips when narrow waist design with the Princess line originating from 1/3 point of the armhole and 2/3 point of the shoulder. 4. With both waist and skirt widths fixed, all two body types exhibited taller and slender postures when the Princess line originated from the shoulder compare to the armhole.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.930-942
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• 1996

This study was done to provide the characteristics of body surface changes at armhole area. Experiments were carried out at upper arm and upper body inchuding 67 items, 74 segments by the stanard posture and arm movements. The subjects were 15 females of twenty aged. The major conclusions of this study are; 1. On the circumference items of upper arm, armhole circumference was decreased by all arm movement, especially high contracted on front armhole line. The most contracted segments of armhole circumference were from the shonlder point to front and back interscye breadth point. Axillary circumference was increased 5 cm to the utmost, so the function of sleeve pattern would be decided by axillary circumference. 2. The lengths of upper arm were decreased near center line, sleeve cap length was contracted 3∼4 cm. Posterior armpit point area was increased both length and breadth. According to the rates of expansion and contraction, the diagram of expansion and contraction of upper arm was suggested. 3. On upper body, back side chest breadth was increased exceedingly and shoulder length was decreased most. It was apparent that surface changes of upper body were greatly larger as far away from center front and center back line. The rates of expansion and contraction of upper body were also represented as a diagram of surface changes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.229-234
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• 2002

An investigation was made of the angle of bias on the lower part of the armhole line of the back bodice and that on the lower part of the sleeve cap curve line by cap heights, and then it was made of the lock stitch seam strength and elongation on the matching angles, the stitch density (26 stitches/3cm, 19 stitches/3cm, 14 stitches/3cm, and the samples (a cotton fabric and two kinds of cotton mixed polyester fabric). The matching angles of the machine-sewed samples are $30^{\circ}/-30^{\circ}$, $30^{\circ}/-45^{\circ}$, $45^{\circ}/-45^{\circ}$ and $60^{\circ}/-60^{\circ}$ by the analysis of the angles of bias on the lower part of the armhole seam. In view of the results of the seam strength and elongation, the reasonable sewing condition of the lower part of the armhole seam was 19 stitches/3cm.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.665-674
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to develop a grading increment at armhole area by apparel CAD(Computer Aided Design) system. In developing a grading increment at armhole area, we analyzed ease values of armhole area in bodice and sleeve by manual drafting patterns of five sizes. We suggested grading increments applied Pythagorean theorem to development the grading increment of the armhole of sleeve. The results and discussions of this study were as follows: 1. In drafting each size, the ease values were not identical. It was difficult to draft perfectly the same armhole line shape between sizes. 2. According to our developed grading increments applied Pythagorean theorem, the ease values were identical between sizes and difference of the armhole length between sizes was also identical. 3. The grading formulas were made out for apparel CAD system. Once grading increment or formula is set in the computer, it can be easily altered to various clothing items at any time. The efficiency of grading work will be also improved and grading time will be reduced.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.182-194
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• 2001

The main purpose is to study lines on different body types and to disguise any imperfections by using diverse princess lines. We separated festers body shapes into specific body types, A, H by applying both the direct and the indirect measurements. Following are the results of the study: 1. nose are the resulting illusion effects when the shoulder width of the princess line was fixed. In case of the armhole princess line, the illusion that the waist intervals were narrow or wide in A-line silhouette. In case the shoulder princess line, when the waist interval was narrow, it appeared to show narrow shoulder in A-line silhouette. While the wide waist interval shows the wide shoulder width in H-line silhouette. It regards body type H in the same light as H-line silhouette when the waist interval is narrow, it appeared to show narrow shoulder width in A-line silhouette. When the waist interval was wide, it appeared to give the narrow shoulder width. 2. When the princess lines waist width was fixed in order to study illusion effects of waist widths. Generally, for body type A, Whether the waist interval princess line is narrow or wide, the princess line is located comparatively wide, in A-line silhouette appeared to show relatively slender waist. For body type H, whether the waist interval is narrow or wide, the princess line us situated comparatively narrow interval, H-line silhouette appeared to show sum waist but the differences are not significant 3. The illusion of the hip were studied by fixating the width of the skirt and varying the locations of princess line and waist widths. For the location of both armhole and shoulder princess line in H and A-line silhouette, the narrow shoulder width and the waist appeared to show narrow hips. mile they are wide appeared to show wide hips. 4. With both waist and skirt width fuel, all two body types showed taller and slender postures when the princess line originated from the shoulder compare to the armhole.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.315-323
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• 2023

In the diverse modern era, individuals are actively striving to develop and demonstrate their capabilities . As a means of cultivating interest in hanbok and differentiatedabilities , there exists a national qualification verification for hanbok technician. This study focuses on using Saekdong-jeogori pattern that is suitable for design and allows for accurate pattern production in a short time for beginners taking the practical test for hanbok technicians. We analyzed five experimental Saekdong-jeogori patterns, from which the final patterns for research were derived through appearance tests on the first table evaluation and the second outfit evaluation. The Saekdong-jeogori pattern-1 for research utilized the body values presented by beginners taking the hanbok technician qualification verification, while the rest were calculated or applied using equivalents. The godae point and armhole depth were calculated based on the chest circumference, and the armhole curve, sleeve shape, doryeon line, and sleeve-end were drawn, regardless of the changes in the figures, using equal parts. The Saekdong-jeogori pattern-2 provided activity by vertically lowering the side line from the end of the armhole, and the keotseop line was drawn by moving 1 cm from the width of the Kit to the armhole line. The seopko was raised 0.2 cm from the keotseop reference line and0.2cm , and was supplemented by its connection to a natural curve.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.45
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• pp.17-28
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• 1999

This study was to analyze factors of the body form and factors of bodice pattern through a surface developement figure for the tight bodice pattern design. Fifty replicas of the trunk surface were made by applying a surgical tape method of female subjects between 18 and 24 years old. The result was as follows: 1. The gaps between direct measurements and measurements of the surface development figure were regarded as allowances for the tight bodice pattern. 2. There are four factors of body form selected by factor analysis. The 1st factor signifies th degree of fatness in the upper body. The 2nd factor signifies the length of the upper body. The 3rd factor signifies the part of the front shoulder. The 4th factor signifies the part of the neck. 3. There are high correlations between center back line of the surface development figure and back length line side line front length line back neck depth back upper chest depth. There are high correlations between back bust line of the surface development figure and back interscye breadth line back upper chest line back armhole line. There are high correlations between front bust line of the surface development figure and front upper chest line front interscye breadth line front armhole line front neck breadth 4. The regression expressions of measurements of the surface development figure of the upper body were analyzed as(Fig. 3).

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.921-926
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• 2014

The aim of this study is to develop upper bodice pattern for obese girls aged 10~12 by using 3D virtual garment simulation system. The criteria for subjects in this study were girls who had over 1.46 of the R$\ddot{o}$hrer Index. A total of 229 schoolgirls who met these criteria were enrolled. The results of this study are as follows: First, by using 3D virtual garment simulation, new upper bodice pattern considered obese-schoolgirls was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows ; bust girth B/2+4.5, armhole depth B/4-1, waist girth W/4+0.5+dart amount, front chest width B/6+2, back width B/6+2, neck width B/12-0.5 and neck depth B/12+0.5. Second, armhole darts were added to compensate the loose amount of front armhole and dart manipulation was used to ensure a better appearance on armhole in the design. The dart side line was modified concavely to help cover the protruding stomach. Curved lines on the armhole were significantly relieved using dart manipulation and the darts side line was modified concavely to reduce the tightness around the front waist darts. Third, according to the results of the new upper bodice pattern's appearance evaluation, it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new upper bodice pattern was appropriate for the obese-schoolgirls. This study is expected to serve as one of important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D virtual garment simulation system with 2D patterns.