• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.164-172
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to investigate the most appropriate arm-hole depth in 9 positions of arm movements. This subjects were four females, college students aged 18 to 23 years old. The clothing size 55 was used for this study. In the experiments for the investigation of the arm-hole depth, the evaluations were performed for aesthetic view, clothing adaptability to arm movements, and quantity of materials pulled up by 9 movements of arm. The results of this study were as follows: 1) In the aesthetic evaluation, there were no significant differences in arm-hole depths. 2) In the evaluation of clothing adaptability to arm movements, the experiment clothes, in which-arm-hole depths were raised, had more positive evaluations especially with the increasing the angle of arm movements. 3) In the evaluation of clothing adaptability to each body areas, there were no significant differences in all body areas except upper arm circumference blade. 4) In the evaluation of quantity of materials pulled up by arm movements, the clothes of B/4-2 arm-hole depth had the least amount pulled up by arm movements, which showed the highest adaptability to arm movement.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.29-45
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• 1997

This study aims at designing sleeves which are suitable for arm shapes and arm movements. With the samples of of ordinary 24 women aged from 20 to 22, the arm shapes and movements were measured 3-dimensionally using a motion analyzer and a sonic digitizer, and then clasified into three characteristic types (A, B, and C). Our analysis leads to the following conclusion. The factors classifying arm shapes are the length from acromion to posterior armpit point, arm hole length, the cap height, difference in height between anterior and posterior armpit points, armhole circumference, upper arm circumferemce, armhole depth, and underarm circumference. The characteristics of arm type A is that the armhole depth and the length from acromion to posterior armpit point are the largest, while the circumference inbe- tween upper arm and elbow is the smallest among the three arm types. Thus, the large circumference difference between upper and lower arms is the most notable in arm type A. The factors classifying arm shapes for arm type B are the smallest except for the circumference inbetween upper arm and elbow which is larger than that for arm type A. The circumference difference betweemn upper and lower arms is small for arm type B. Arm type C has the smallest armhole depth, while other factors are similar to those for arm type B. In type C, the size of upper arm is comparatively small on the frontal plane, while it is the largest on the sagital plane.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.11
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• pp.1190-1197
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze methods of women's apparel prototypes and provide for some useful fundamental data to improve the apparel prototype suitable for Korean women. Two different drafting methods, the Bunka pattern of Japan Bunka Women's University and the Secoli pattern of Italy istituto carlo secoli, an italian pattern drafting institute, were selected. The result and discussion are as follows; In the calculation formula, the Bunka was shown more comfort at arm-hole part, because of it's lower arm-hole depth, wider arm-hole width and lower cap height in comparison with the Secoli. At the shoulder angle, the Bunka is inclined more in front shoulder than the back shoulder, whereas the Secoli is inclined more in back shoulder than the front shoulder. It could explain that the Bunka is suitable for bendforward type and the Secoli is suitable for lean-back type. In the sensory test, the one-piece pattern of the Secoli with 4cm ease was highly estimated in ease. It seems young women's preference to body conscious clothes which reflected in many new elastic fabrics. At the bust point to neck, the Bunka was highly estimated, compared with the Secoli. It seems like to be caused that for the bust point to neck formula, the Bunka used bust girth, the Secoli used stature which has low correlation with the bust point to neck.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.14 no.4 s.36
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• pp.274-280
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• 1990

This paper is intended to grasp the characteristics of many bodices patterns which have been shown so far. The way is by selecting four characteristic kinds of patterns, making blouses offer the patterns and measuring ease. In measuring the degree of ease, $Scheff\`{e}'s$ paired comparison is made use of. In analysis, variation ratio has come out of analysis of variance, and significance is tested by producing estimated values between patterns. The Result is summed up as follows. 1. After wearing blouses made ofter different basic patterns and measuring ease, the analysis of variance is made about the sensory value of ease. The result is as follows. 1) In the ease of different patterns, all the areas are significant at the level of $1\%$ , regard- less of movements. 2) Under the influence of movements, the back area of arm hole is significant at the level of $5\%$ in narrow movements, and the front and the back area of arm hole are each significant at the level of $1\%$ in wide movements. 3) In the interaction of patterns and movements, bust and the under area of arm hole are each significant at the level of $1\%$ in narrow movements, and bust is significant at the level of $1\%$ in wide movements. 2. When comparing estimated values between patterns, the value of c is the largest and in the order of b,4, a. And in the other movements, the order changes into c,d, b and a. Thus the ease of blouses is different according to patterns. The reason for this is that the amount of ease of bust, the amount and location of darts, and sleeve cap height have complicate influences on the ease of blouses. Both sleeve cap height and the depth of arm hole have influences on the ease of sleeve. Consequently, in making clothes, it would be better to select and use proper patterns which go with the purposes and desings of clothes rather than to apply one pattern to various clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.48-59
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• 2003

The purposes of this research lie in developing dress shirts pattern targeting adult males between 25-34 years of age and presenting the rules of grading according to the real circumstances of dress shirts industry. The findings of this research are as follows: 1. The surveyed companies kept different size systems ranged from 5 to 18. They kept different size systems each other, and the pattern making was conducted by modification of the collar size, chest size, etc of the pattern developed through each company's know-how. All the surveyed companies were using point method of grading. 2. The method of the research pattern was to adopt N/6+1(cm) for the width of the back of the neck. N/6 for the front neck, N/6+2 for the depth of the front neck, B/6+7 for the shoulder width, B/6+5.5 for the breast width, B/4+5 for the whole width (back), B/4+4 for the whole width (front), B/4+3.5 for the depth, AH/2+0.5 for the back arm hole, AH2+1 for the front arm hole. 3. The grading rule was made after classifying the sizes into 14 centered on the standard size 40. Through the wearing test of research grading rule, 1 found the suitability of grading size 36 and 43 satisfiable.

• Journal of Institute of Control, Robotics and Systems
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.298-308
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• 2000

In this paper a new two-arm cooperative assembly(or insertion) algorithm is proposed. As a force-guided control method for the cooperative assembly the adaptive accommodation controller is adopted since it does not require any complicated contact state analysis nor depends of the geometrical complexity of the assembly parts. Also the RMRC(resolved motion rate control) method using a relative jacobian is used to solve inverse kinematics for two manipulators. By using the relative jacobian the two cooperative redundant manipulators can be formed as a new single redundant manipulator. Two arms can perform a variety of insertion tasks by using a relative motion between their end effectors. A force/torque sensing model using an approximated penetration depth calculation a, is developed and used to compute a contact force/torque in the graphic assembly simulation . By using the adaptive accommodation controller and the force/torque sensing model both planar and a spatial cooperative assembly tasks have been successfully executed in the graphic simulation. Finally through a cooperative assembly task experiment using a humanoid robot CENTAUR which inserts a spatially bent pin into a hole its feasibility and applicability of the proposed algorithm verified.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.171-187
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• 2016

The study performed a comparison analysis of market brand patterns for slim-fit dress shirts and analyzed the body surface development figure of men in their 40s using 3D body scan data and developed slim-fit dress shirt patterns suitable for middle-aged men. The sizes of slim-fit dress shirt patterns showed a slight difference depending on brand. The overlap map of slim-fit dress shirt patterns for brands demonstrates how difference of one-dimensional sizes reflect on two-dimensional patterns. This map provides useful information for pattern design and allows and easy recognition of pattern size differences. A try-on system evaluation through 3D-Simulation allows a grasp of the fitness of neckline and size tolerance of under the arms in front, the silhouette of side lines, and overall fitness in front that also allows analysis of the front/back balance of a shirt in side, the size tolerance proportion in front/back, and the fitness of the arm-hole line. Thus, we obtained try-on results that were equivalent to wearing actual clothing. According to the drafting size suggested in the developed final pattern, the total width was 'C/2+5.5cm', and the front was set at 1cm bigger in the size difference of the front and back. The width of the front neck and the back neck was set identically at 'C/12', while the width of the front neck was set to 'C/12+1.5cm'. For the armhole depth, we added 'C/4+2cm', and '0.5cm and 1.5cm' for the width of the front and back to anthropometry. The results of the try-on evaluation through 3D-Simulation indicated that the fitness of the final slim-fit dress shirt pattern was superior to available slim-fit dress shirt patterns on the market and evaluated as superior to the types for middle-aged men.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.129-147
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to survey and analyze domestic fashion education institution's program on apparel prototype and thereupon, address the problems and find their solutions, and thereby, provide for some basic data useful to improve the basic patterns of apparel and ultimately, help reinforce the professional and practical apparel design education. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. 85.1% of the subjects finished graduate or higher courses. Almost all of the college and junior college teachers finished graduate or higher courses, while only 31.6% of those teaching at technical institutes finished graduate or higher courses. Such a finding suggests that colleges tend to employ their faculty members based on their academic background but that technical institutes value the practical ability of their faculty more. 2. As a result of surveying the types of basic patterns used by teachers, it was found that 72.3% of them were using two or more patterns. The basic pattern preferred most by our teachers was Japanese culture institute's type (71.3%), followed by the US FIT type (24.5%), Lim Won-Ja's type (22.3%), French ESMOD type (17.0%). 96.3% of our apparel design students were making their basic patterns as instructed by their teachers. 3. 67.0% of our students were using their conceived sizes for production of their basic patterns, 14.9% were referring to the ready-made sizes, 8.5% were relying on their teachers' individual experiences, and 9.6% were using their own cord sizes. In order to survey the difference between teachers' sizes (ready-made sizes or individual experienced ones) and business sizes used, the basic body measurements used for ready-made apparels were surveyed to be compared with the national standard body sizes set in 1997 for women aged between 18 and 24. As a result, it was found that the ready-made sizes used for apparel production prototypes than teachers' ones were nearer the national standard sizes. Such a finding suggests that it may well be necessary for teachers to be more connected with the apparel businesses and thereby, teach their students in a more realistic way with correct information. 4. 83.0% of the subject teachers were tacking their basic patterns to be well fitting, and 76.9% of these teachers were tacking the patterns in reference with students' individual body sizes. In all, 97.4% of the subject teachers were guiding the tacking process, which suggests that the flat patternmaking is taught primarily for customized apparels. As a result of comparing the fitness of basic patterns with those of each body part, it was found that teachers were most dissatisfied with the fitness of shoulders and arm hole depth. Therefore, it will be necessary to reclassify the body types or find other drawing techniques to improve the fitness of such body parts. Nevertheless, teachers were willing much (4.18) to develop their own educational basic patterns for themselves. Lastly, it is hoped that this study will be followed up by future studies on educational prototypes covering diverse body shapes and those on practical implementations of those prototypes for students.