• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.634-644
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• 2021

This study aims to propose various ways to utilize CLO, which focuses mainly on the production of 3D virtual samples, by comparing it with the pattern drafting functions of Four apparel CAD experts, who have teaching experience in YUKA and CLO, participated in a focus group interview, and a basic bodice prototype drafting was carried out by each participant to evaluate the pattern drafting functions of YUKA and CLO. The result of this study showed that the pattern drafting tools of YUKA are subdivided since YUKA is a CAD tool inherently specialized in pattern making. Though CLO provided a relatively limited pattern drafting menu compared to YUKA, it was found that pattern drafting could be accomplished with the help of supplementary tools and functions. This finding suggests that each CAD offers the corresponding tools for the same use of menus or functions in the prototype drafting process. The major difference between YUKA and CLO is that YUKA defines the pattern area by a set of line segments, whereas CLO utilizes an outline composed of closed curves. YUKA provides various specific tools according to the options such as angles, straight lines, and curves, while CLO produces the same results using combinations of a limited number of tools. Compared with YUKA, the advantage of CLO is its user-friendly task environment such as the Windows-based user interface, from the usability perspective. This study concludes that pattern drafting education using CLO would help not only industrial 3D design practitioners but also pattern education in academia

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.336-345
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• 2019

This study evaluated the preference and wearing characteristics of existing fitness compression wear for elderly women and identified the problems and improvements of existing fitness apparel. Preference and wearing characteristics for 6 types (A-F) of upper and lower fitness compression wear were evaluated. Photos and drawings as well as the preferred designs and details were investigated after presenting the evaluation clothing. Evaluations were made on a 5 point Likert scale for the fitness, allowance, pressure, ease of movement, fabric material, and overall satisfaction after wearing. The design preference indicated that B type (26.6%) and C type (23.4%) were preferred in the top with C, E and F type preferred to the same ratio of 19.4% in the slacks. The fitness and allowance amount of the top B type were the most appropriate (${\geq}4$), the C type was in close contact (2.86), and the F type was inadequate in the neck circumference (1.77). The feeling of pressure was high in the waist, abdomen, thighs, and knees. The area where the elderly people want to improve their strength was the legs; in addition, a pattern design was needed to strengthen leg muscles when designing fitness compression wear. However, a design with excessive adhesion due to a muscle support band was shown to be not preferred. Therefore, depending on the activity, it is necessary to develop a fitness compression wear that applies an optimum stretching ratio of fabric based on body surface area changes.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.95-104
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• 2018

This study classified the figurative features of the raglan sleeves presented in the Spring and Summer Collections and Fall and Winter Collections abroad in 2010 and 2018 and analyzed the production methods and patterns of the classified raglan sleeves. The analysis results are described below. The raglan sleeves in the latest fashion trends were classified into Type H, Type A, Type O and Type Y per shape. The production features of raglan sleeves in the latest fashion trends included the cutting lines in various shapes, a flounce that made shoulders look wider, and decorations such as gathers, studs, punching, slits, pleats and tucks. The raglan sleeve design was classified into Yoke Raglan, Armhole Princess Raglan, Semi Raglan, Gathered Raglan, Pleats Raglan, Cowl Raglan, Origami Raglan, Circular Curved Raglan, Capes Raglan and Constructive Design Raglan and the patterns per design were presented. For creative and experimental clothing by the analysis of the features of raglan sleeve structure, a variety of configuration methods need to be developed and implemented. The analysis results of this study will contribute to the development of the fashion industry through small quantity batch production pursuing unique styles as the basis for further study on the configuration methods of raglan sleeves. This study will be used in various ways as education materials on sleeve patterns in the educational field. Through the analysis of sleeve patterns, this study tries to provide basic data for planning the design of raglan sleeves and helping to diversify the ladies' apparel market in the future.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.564-573
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• 2019

Recently, purchasing expensive branded apparel became prevalent among adolescents as they consume conspicuously. People in their adolescence strongly tend to follow peers and are very likely to pay attention to how they wear look to others. Already a good deal of prior research about young people's conspicuous consumption have focused on variables related to these behaviors. The purpose of this study is to examine demographic characteristics of adolescents who show a conspicuous consumption and factors affecting this consumption which is related to peer relations. And we will examine how negative emotions arisen out of relations influence teenagers' conspicuous consumption of branded apparels ultimately. Being out of favor from peers has an effect on anxiety which is negative emotion in association with peer relations. According to the survey, adolescents did conspicuous consumption following others or following trends to get rid of anxiety. Also, if appears to be acting on clothing consumption as a means not to be marginalized. All these findings are expected to be useful information to adolescents to have a better habit of consumption life, and also anticipated to be valuable information for consumer behavior education. The cause of youth's show-off behavior, which is still incomplete in identity formation and immature in choice and judgement, will have to be analyzed and countermeasures taken against it.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.5
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• pp.679-693
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• 2021

The aim of this study was first to expand participation types in the field of beauty design by examining activities in the field, and second, to seek practical methods for addressing the important issue of social responsibility amid the current pandemic situation. Accordingly, social responsibility in design was examined through a review of previous studies. The features of practice domains and design performance fields were examined comparatively. As a result, it was found that social practices take place in various sectors, with sensibility toward the environment being escalated to a new level in the cosmetics industry. In terms of cosmetics enterprise practices, collecting, recycling, manufacturing, and retail networking has been established to reuse up to 95% of waste resources. Furthermore, ethical responsibility and participation concerning product and service waste resources are recommended, resulting in the supply of eco-friendly products in a virtuous cycle. In terms of systematic policy, even component transformation (such as organic certification and excluding toxic substances) is being carried out. However, it was difficult to identify such responsible activities in Korea; thus, systematic practice is needed. Designers take part in talent donation activities, and it was the sector they prefer the most. However, it is necessary to conduct studies on limitations such as venues equipped with cosmetics procedure equipment and public cosmetics sanitation and make systematic improvement, such that activities can be led with initiative from passive participation.

• Journal of the Korea Computer Graphics Society
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.15-24
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• 2020

We present a supervised learning method that estimates the simulation parameters required to simulate the fabric from the static drape shape of a given fabric sample. The static drape shape was inspired by Cusick's drape, which is used in the apparel industry to classify fabrics according to their mechanical properties. The input vector of the training model consists of the feature vector extracted from the static drape and the density value of a fabric specimen. The output vector consists of six simulation parameters that have a significant influence on deriving the corresponding drape result. To generate a plausible and unbiased training data set, we first collect simulation parameters for 400 knit fabrics and generate a Gaussian Mixed Model (GMM) generation model from them. Next, a large number of simulation parameters are randomly sampled from the GMM model, and cloth simulation is performed for each sampled simulation parameter to create a virtual static drape. The generated training data is fitted with a log-linear regression model. To evaluate our method, we check the accuracy of the training results with a test data set and compare the visual similarity of the simulated drapes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.493-504
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• 2022

This study aims to gain a deeper understanding of the fashion styles of underground rappers in China and South Korea. Due to rappers' fashion influence on modern fashion trends, research on rapper fashion has been conducted steadily in the field of apparel. Qualitative research methodologies including literature research and in-depth interviews were the primary techniques used to solve the research questions. In-depth interviews were conducted with 10 Chinese underground rappers and 10 Korean underground rappers to reveal and explore their fashion style and view of fashion. As a result, the participants' fashion styles were categorized into four styles: authentic hip-hop fashion style, popularized hip-hop fashion style, easy sports casual style, and trendy street style. Rappers from both countries consider that their identity as rappers can be demonstrated through their hip-hop fashion style. The influence of hip-hop culture and the popularity of rap music differs between China and Korea. It affects not only the rapper's musical characteristics, but also their fashion style. While Korean underground rappers' fashions style is trendier, Chinese underground rappers' fashions style displays stronger characteristics of hip-hop fashion. Due to the public's negative view of rappers, some Korean underground rappers intentionally try to hide their identity by wearing a fashion style that differs from the authentic rapper image. Understanding the fashion styles of underground rappers in Korea and China is expected to assist in predicting future hip-hop culture and rapper fashion trends.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.49-61
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• 2022

This study aims to provide upper body shape information by analyzing the measurement data of middle-aged women aged 50-69, including baby boomers, whose economic power and activity have improved compared to the previous generations. In order to provide accurate upper body shape information by analyzing the body type using the 8th Size Korea measurement data, body shapes were classified through factor and cluster analysis using 75 direct measurement items. Upper body type was classified according to the factors, and the associated characteristics were analyzed. As a result of the comparative analysis of the upper body measurements from the 4th to the 8th Size Korea measurement, it was found that in the height item, both the waist height and the hip height increased, making the overall height greater and the leg length longer. The body circumference items tended to increase, but were found to decrease significantly in the 8th Size Korea (2021) measurement. Middle-aged women were classified using five factors. Factor 1 was the upper body obesity factor, and Factor 2 was the trunk vertical factor. Factor 3 was the width of the back shoulder, Factor 4 was the vertical factor behind the back, and Factor 5 was the length factor of the front garment composition. Middle-aged women were classified into four body types through cluster analysis. Type 1 is relatively small and skinny, Type 2 has the most obese upper body and developed back shoulders, and Type 3 is skinny and has a long back and short front. In Type 4, the upper body was relatively long and the shoulders were narrow.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.281-296
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• 2022

This study is designed to compensate for the lack of children's clothing relics from the early 18th century and to reproduce young upper-class girls' costume as hanbokcontent. The shapes and materials of costumes are based on the record of 『Sukjong-silrok』 in 1701 and the characteristics of adult ladie's costume relics in this period, but reproduced as miniatures of these relics as like Joseon children's clothing of another period. The reproduced costumes are formal wear for 3~4 year-old girls, consisting of yeoui [女衣], long unlined skirts, and lined skirts. Sizes were set at a height ratio of approximately 155:95. Yeoui is sam-hoejang-jeogori using pine pollen-colored damask with a grape-squirrel pattern and a purple damask with flower-treasure pattern. The full length of yeoui is 24.5cm. It has a square-dangko outer collar with square inner collar. The long unlined skirt is a six-width overskirt that is 82cm long, made with lotus patterned sa. The lined skirt is a five-width skirt that is 61.3cm made with flower-treasure patterned red damask and ju. Several long pleats on both sides of these two skirts have been omitted. The result provides meaningful content for children's clothing in the early 18^th century and will be used as costume for an educational trial performance.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.44-54
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• 2024

In this study, the sizing systems of 40 unisex sweatshirt brands were analyzed to collect the size information needed to produce unisex clothing. Each size specification was compared with the body size distribution and percentiles of men and women aged 18 to 29. Depending on the brand, unisex sweatshirt sizes ranged from 1 to 8. Despite being unisex apparel, three brands offered only one or two sizes. Out of the brands surveyed, 50% were found to offer four or five sizes. Out of the 40 brands, 25 used letters such as "S," "M," and "L" to indicate the size designation. More than 92.5% of the brands included M and L, and the sizing system tended to focus on larger sizes such as XL and 2XL rather than smaller sizes such as XS and S. The size specifications of shoulder width, chest circumference, sleeve length, and total length were compared with the body size distribution and percentiles of men and women aged 18 to 29. The distribution of each size specification mostly appeared in a section larger than the men's body size. The size specifications of unisex sweatshirts were set close to or larger than men's sizes and hardly represented women's sizes. To increase consumer satisfaction with unisex clothing, establishing a size standard that could accurately reflect the body size distribution of men and women was found to be imperative. Such a size standard could also help each brand specify or diversify its target and differentiate itself with other brands.