• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.87-93
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• 2020

This study provide basic data to develop a dress form reflecting body shape characteristics by age and to produce a 3D body form in a virtual fitting program. A comparative analysis was conducted on the size, section shape, and slope of side shape of the modeling form by the sizing of the basic female avatar in CLO 3D, one of the 3D apparel CAD programs and the body form of women in their 20s-50s by body shape in the 6th Size Korea (2010). First, all the differences were formed similarly in the direct measurements between the 3D avatar and the body form were within 1 mm. Second, in a comparison of the section form of the avatar and body form in Size Korea, the avatar was formed in straight body shape and did not reflect a spinal curvature according to age. As a result of an examination of the items with a difference over 5° in the slope of side shape, there were angle differences in numerous body shapes in the angles of the side upper abdomen, side upper back, and side upper bust, and the avatar's bust shape was expressed more flatly compared to body form. It will be possible to produce an avatar that can adequately reflect body shape characteristics by adding detailed length and angle items by the region like waist back length and front length in producing the avatar reflecting body shape characteristics, instead of a standard body shape.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.353-364
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• 1998

Consumer knowledge has been discussed as an important concept to understand information processing such as information search and evaluation process. It has been defined as the amounts and contents of information in consumer's memory accumulated by experiences. According to literature review, experts who have much knowledge are likely to retrieve their information related to products for a purchase efficiency. Therefore, they are likely to simplify the information processing for a choice. The purpose of this study was to examine the relationship between clothing product knowledge and evaluative criteria for a purchase. The results were as follows; First, it was found out that evaluative criteria were composed of four dimensions such as the management, the esthetic, the fitness and the brand. Therefore, it is implied that evaluative criteria for purchasing clothing products were multidimensional. Second, the level of objective knowledge was low, and consumers perceived that they didn't have much knowledge related with clothing products. Also, the relationships between objective and subjective knowledge were positive but low. Third, the evaluative criteria were effected by the level of consumer's knowledge significantly. In subjective knowledge, the subjects in a high group considered all criteria more deeply than in a low group. But there was a significant difference only in the esthetic between two groups in objective knowledge. The results of this study imply that consumer knowledge may influence evaluation process. Knowledgeable consumer would consider product attributes deeply for evaluating clothing products, and especially, the esthetic would be an important factor as an attribute including the instrumental and expressive functions in a purchase phase. Therefore, consumer knowl- edge would be a basis of predicting expert's information processing and managing heavy buyer or loyal consumers in apparel industry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.8
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• pp.1322-1331
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to design an official costume of Joseon Ginyeo in the scholar’s banquet in 16th century, thereby making correct historical animation, drama costumes, and various costume contents. Every Ginyeo in and wore a long yellow coat with short front edge. 'Dan-ei', Ginyeo’s court costume, had very similar shape except color and collar, therefore the size of Dan-ei was adapted to design a yellow coat for drama actress. Ginyeo’s Jogori in these paintings was wide and long enough to cover undervelly under the edge of yellow coat, but It was designed more slim and long for better appearence and comfortable movement in my work. A skirt of Ginyeo was designed with circumference of about 360cm and length of about 105cm according as a skirt style of Joseon ladies in 16th century. Ginyeo's Jam(hairpin) was consist of a vase, a plum blossom, and a lotus pattern. And, a wide underpants with a single suspender, portable pouch, Un-hae(women’s shoes) with low heel are needed for drama actress in the role of Ginyeo. In this design, it is very important to save an estimate and time, select suitable mordern fabrics, reform discomportable points, express a charater’s role, and make a trendy appearence.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.5
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• pp.691-703
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• 2013

The costume culture of ladies in late Goryeo is an important and rare source for cultural fashion souvenir design. This study investigates the historical costume design sources of late Goryeo to suggest high quality traditional and practical ornament souvenir designs for female dolls as well as examples of coordination with doll costumes. The costume culture of late Goryeo contained golden Buddhism and a revival of $12^{th}$ century Goryeo costume characteristic after the period of Mongolian influences from the Yuan. The main sources for doll ornament designs are $14^{th}$ century Buddhist paintings, a few ornament relics of Goryeo, ancient literature, and portraits of ladies in the $14^{th}$ century that originated from five doll's traditional ornaments (lotus hairpin, cloud-shaped hairpin, Buddhist flower hair ornament, vase-shaped Binyeo, and bell of animalhuman face) and three wig designs (wigs from Buddhist paintings and portraits, and hairpiece) with bleached gilding silver, silk, various gemstones and synthetic hair. These doll ornament and wig designs imply the symbol of Buddhism, exorcism, and costume culture of $14^{th}$ century Goryeo ladies that can be matched with two doll gowns, half-sleeved jacket, skirt, two Jogoris, apron, under trousers as formal, semi-formal, and town-wear according to the T.P.O of late Goryeo; in addition, five ornaments can be used as owner's ornaments. The partial changing colors and materials due to the characteristics of doll ornament goods as well as better communication between researcher and constructor remain to be improved.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.11
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• pp.1582-1592
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to suggest production planning model for women's apparel manufacturer, which are relevant to the situation of Korean clothing industry. The research was based on simulation method. The basic model for the simulation was developed based on the empirical data from six production fm. After verifying the basic model, low alternative production plans went through trial run. In order to suggest the application of these alternative production plans for various style numbers and lot sizes, the simulation results were compared in terms of product efficiency and product cost. The four alternative plans were as follows: 1. The first alternative was to spread out work loads among workers in order to resolve bottlenecks in work flow. So this was suited to manufacturers that had constant production without regard to changing seasons. 2. The second alternative was to merge the skirt and trouser production, which require less work load, in one line. In this line, a few machine was justified by production improvement. It was suited to cases which producted various style suits. The third and fourth alternative were using another subcontractor for assembling inner shell garments. These was compatible in manufacturers which had to product more styles and sizes of trousers and skirts than those of upper garments. 3. The third alternative was to reassign the same workers in production line. Thus, production was increased. 4. The fourth alternative was to except two worker in production line, so expenses of worker's wage was decreased. The four alternatives could be one of the cost effective manufacturing plans according to manufacturer situations.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.282-297
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• 1996

The effective construction for ready-made clothes is one of the central concerns of both consumers and manufactuers in today's apparel industry. In order to reduce the burden of stocks and increase clothing fitness, systematic information on typical body sizes and somatotypes is essential. The purpose of this study i-: to provide basic data on young women's somatotypes for form designers and pattern makers. The subjects of the survey were 310 women of 18 to 26 years old. The study collected 84 anthropometric data for each Person. The data was analyzed by using of the multivariate method. The factor analysis was utilized in regard to the 65 items obtained from anthropometric measurement respectively. The principal component analysis was applied to the data with orthogonal rotation after extraction. The factor scores used in the factor analysis became the basis of determining the value of each variable of the cluster analysis. The cluster analysis was applied for identifying typical somatotypes. Ward's minimum variance method was applied for the purpose of extracting distance metrix by the standardized Euclidean distance. The element forming each cluster can be subdivided into several sets by crosstabulation which is obtained by the fastclus of the SAS. This research has demonstrated 3 distinctive types of silhouette contour of the trunk. Incidentally it also identified 4 of the lower body from the waistline to thigh contour respectively. The discriminant analysis showed that the most significant discriminant factor of the trunk classification were side neck point -1 scapular -1 waistiline length and waist girth. In Korea, the average somatotype of female college students tends to be tall, slim and straight. Reviewing the relationship between the classifications of three parts of body, they are related to each other to some extent but their distribution are not constant. Therefore, in view of clothing construction, a proper separation of the body surface is a necessity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.8
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• pp.1301-1311
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• 2006

This study rearranged a concept of Friday wear considered as casual wear by searching social background through analysis of literature study and photo materials and classifying by characteristics of casual wear. It investigated growing changes of casual wear and the progress of changes casual brands through a market survey based on departments in Seoul. And then, it examined characteristics of a design and the critical point of easy casual selecting GIORDANO, TBJ and NII of three easy casual brands. Conclusions of the study are as follows: Firstly, present casual wear showed subdivision of casual wear as abundant grouping vocabularies appeared contrary to the past. Secondly, easy casual wear has continuously increased by results of investigating departments in Seoul on the progress of changing easy casual wear brand including the concept of Friday wear. Thirdly, if a main target sets the early 20s, women workers in their 20's and 30's are likely to be reluctant to wear it according to results of investigating designs and characteristics based on GIORDANO, TBJ and NII of existing three easy casual brands through the market survey. Also, it was verified that most of these brands have no a luxurious image because they adhere to middle-low price. Fourthly, it improved problems of easy casual through developing designs of easy casual wear. Easy casual wear supplementing weak these points of easy casual wear was evaluated as suitable clothes for workers to wear in on and off their own time in Friday.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.722-740
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• 2017

This study was conducted to offer basic data that can be used in a clothing industry for active senior males that are emerging as a new consumer bracket in a rapid aging age. To this end, this study conducted an analysis of 'younger' older male body types based on data from the 6th Size Korea. As a result of the body type analysis of 'younger' older males who are considered active seniors in comparison to 'middle' aged males, the former's height items became shorter compared to 'middle' aged males, but circumference items were bigger. Males aged 35-69, who are 'middle' aged males and 'younger' old males were divided into three body types in this study: Type1- small body type with protruded belly, compared to weight. Type 2- body type of slim torso with wide shoulder-back widths. Type3- big body type overall with tall height and heavy weight. According to body type distribution by age group, the middle-aged males had Type2 body type the most. The younger-old males showed type1 the most. There is a need to reflect the body types of active senior male characteristics in apparel pattern design because the current fits are not appropriate if active senior males wear clothing targeted for males aged 30-50.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.188-202
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• 2018

This study aimed to categorize women's body shapes by type after extracting prototypes of 25~34 year old Korean woman. The standardizing research service project conducted by the Ministry of Commerce, Industry and Energy in 2005, divided the age ranges of adult women into three groups: 18~24 years (young), 25~34 years (young-adult) and 35~49 years (adult). This study utilized this age division method to create a concrete body type categorization schema with the most marriageable period, 25 to 34 years old as target age the target age group. We used, measurement data from the 7th Korean Human Body Size Survey (Size Korea) for the body shape analysis. We completed a statistical analysis using the statistical program SPSS 21. After creating the body types using CLO 3D, which is based on the 7th Korean human body measurements, we input data for the average size for each type into the Avata. We then compared and analyzed the cross sections using the Rapidform XOR program. The results of the type-specific characteristics are as follows: big square body of obese body, small square body of plain flat body with tall, plain square body of plain flat with short, triangular body of lower body obesity there was. Significantly, the results of this study should facilitate the development of various apparel products using mass customization or easy-order systems.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.55-66
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• 2015

The objective of this study is to propose a method by which movement fitness can be evaluated using a three-dimensional virtual garment simulation program. To this end, five types of jean pants for men were evaluated on the program by setting the avatars to make particular movements to examine the level of pressure on each body part. To verify whether the clothing pressure measurement produces valid and reliable results, virtual garment simulation program was utilized. The results indicated that there were significant differences in the levels of pressure on body parts depending on the type of test garment and motion. In addition, the clothing pressure measurement results were in line with the appearance evaluation results suggested by a previous study. Based on this set of results, the nomological validity of the clothing pressure measurement program used in this study was verified. Moreover, we employed an appearance evaluation along with the clothing pressure measurement to verify the reliability of the program; there was a high correlation between clothing pressure measurements and appearance evaluation measurements, indicating that measuring clothing pressures may well compensate for the limitations of appearance evaluation. We expect the results of this study to make valuable contributions in facilitating the digitalization of the fashion industry. Furthermore, this study also is significant in that it has suggested 3D virtual fitting programs as a solution to the long-criticized problem related to the evaluation of movement fitness in existing virtual garment simulation programs.