• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.3
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• pp.87-104
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• 2000

The women's apparel sizing system, currently used in the Korean industry, does not reflect measurement differences associated with varying body types and age. Forty five body meaqsurements were taken on 560 subjects, whoes eages ranged from 18-24. STatistical analysis of the data was coducted by using frequences, crosstables, correlation, oneway ANOVA, Regressio analysis. The results of this study were as follow. 1. Average height of women in their early 20's is 160cm, average bust girth 82cm, average hip girth 90cm and average drop 809. The correlation between height and grth items were low and the correlation of length items in the superior and inferior body were shown to bo high respectively. 2. The average Rhrer index is 1.28 and they ussually seem to be in the thin and standard body group. 3. body types were divided by differences between hip and bust sizes. N type(medium hip), A type (large hip), H type(small hip). A classification by body type showed that N type made up 58% while a type made up 24%. 4. The garment sizes for women in their early 20's were developed. 5. The new basic blocks and garment sizes for women in their early 20's were developed as follows : Bust girth (1/2) = 76N, 76A, 79A type($\frac{1}{2}$B+ 4cm) 79N type($\frac{1}{2}$B+ 3.5cm) 82N, 85N type ($\frac{1}{2}$B +3cm) Hip girth($\frac{1}{2}$) =N type($\frac{1}{2}$H + 2~2.5cm) Atype($\frac{1}{2}$H +1.5~2cm) Waist girth($\frac{1}{2}$)=$\frac{1}{2}$W + 2-3cm Back length =extimated measure -0.5cm Front length=76A, N (Back length + 2.2cm) 79A, N(back length +2.7cm) 82N(Back length +3.2cm) 85N(Back length + 3.7cm) Sleeve length=Sleeve length +3cm.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.6
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• pp.131-145
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to provide preliminary data on strategies to create a domestic prestige brand based on Korean traditional designs. This study also deals with how to promote this brand around the world. The two points mentioned above will be accomplished by examining the characteristics of the brand '3.1 Phillip Lim' which succeeded in both design and marketing during a short period of time. The method of the study will be followed. Firstly, the basic design and philosophical background of Phillip Lim was investigated, after reviewing the global luxury market and current status of overseas expansion of Korean designers through paper study and antecedent workups. Secondly, for the practical stage, design characteristics and marketing strategies were reviewed with the collections of '3.1 Phillip Lim'. Three factors found in '3.1 Phillip Lim's design success are as follows: First, practical and simple designs using fabrics of high quality. Second, handcraft elements and interesting details that differentiates his design identity. Third, femininity expressed in the feminine silhouette and color. The marketing elements that made '3.1 Phillip Lim' as a successful brand are: First, differentiated positioning as a luxurious contemporary brand. Second, brand promotion through various collaborations. Third, the gradual expansion of women's, men's, kids' apparel to accessory, lingerie and the stable flagship stores. Thus, '3.1 Phillip Lim' has combined modern and classic styles using high quality fabrics and practical designs with unique details. Through it's differentiated marketing strategy targeting New York's market, which prefers popular 'luxury contemporary brand's rather than high-end luxury brands, this brand's creativity and commercial aspects contributed to make '3.1 Phillip Lim' into a luxury brand that represents New York fashion. Korean designers who seek to enter the global fashion industry should consider applying Korean traditional designs on global designs to make favorable products and localize these products according to regional characteristics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.4 s.113
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• pp.9-17
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• 2007

Somatotype is human body shape and physique type which can be classified not only by the size, but also by the shape or posture of the body. Postural variations in the alignment of the back, shoulder, and neck can have an adverse effect on the fit of garments designed to hang from the shoulders. There have been some previous studies about the lateral upper torso by analyzing photographic measurements. In this study, 3D body scan images were used to classify the side somatotype of upper lateral method even though they are major data in the classification of upper torso. This study focused on following objective.; 1) To apply new and developing technology into the apparel industry analyzing 3D body scan images. 2) To classify upper laterla torso using the data through the new improver technology, 3D body scanner. 3) To propose basic materials for well fitted garments for each type of figure. The test subjects for this study were two hundreds nine female aged 19 years and up who were recruited in Cornell university body scan research team. Seventeen Variables(12 angles, 5 lengths) out of 3D body scan data were measured based on these landmarks and applied to analyze. The result of factor analysis indicated that 6 factors were extracted through factor analysis and orthogonal rotation by the method of Varimax and those factors comprise 62.5% of total variance. And the somatotype of upper body is classified into 3 types of figures according to cluster analysis; Bent forward posture, Straight posture, Swayback posture. Future study could be addressed about the somatotype of body by the age group based on the large database with wide variety of age.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.5
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• pp.423-429
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• 2000

This study was conducted to find out the relationship between skin temperature and clothing temperature in body parts. Four different kinds of fabrics were used in this experiment. These fabrics were a (Ny/Spun, 81.8/18.2%), b (Wool/Poly/span, 50/45/5%), (Wool/Ny/Span70/25/5) and d (Wool/Poly/Span 45/45/10%). The subjects skated at indoor ice rink where the length was 111.12 m, the temperature was $11{\pm}1^{\circ}C$ and the humidity was $70{\pm}10%$. The four an male professional skaters speed was $17{\pm}1$ seclm/lap. Physiological parameters were skin temperature at 4 body points (chest, upper arm, thigh, leg) and clothing temperature at chest was measured every 15 second. Experiment protocol was as follows: resting before skating (5 min.), skating (5 min.), and resting after skating (10 min.). The results were as follows; The mean skin temperature by fabrics shows b > a > d > c. The mean skin temperature began to decline little by little as soon as the subjects entered the indoor ice rink. After they rested for five minutes, they started skating and the mean skin temperature declined widely. After skating, the mean skin temperature increased step by step. It maintained the similar temperature. The value of skin temperature at body points shows Leg > Chest > Upper arm > Thigh. Because of the characteristics of skating uniforms, the skin temperature of the leg is the highest. The skating uniform was designed to have a protective portion in the leg. The chest produces the highest temperature in the body. The comparison of difference values in skin temperature show Thigh > Upper arm > Chest > Leg. While skating in a cold atmosphere, the largest difference value is clothing temperature. The clothing temperature is lower than the skin temperature during skating. The difference value of clothing temperature is larger than the skin temperature of the chest.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.266-275
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• 2009

Variations of individual hip shapes are a major obstacle in pattern making for fitness. The drafting method is used for pattern making in today's apparel industry. Whilst catering to a limited number of information such as waist and hip sizes, this method does not cater to variations in hip shape. This paper describes the analysis of hip shapes using 3D body model and tries to make sure the relationship between hip shape and pattern by calculating hip angle and dart amount. We achieved results in analyzing various hip shapes by extracting hip angle. Moreover, various hip shapes can be divided into three types(A, B and C) by the hip angle value($K_{sh}-K_{wsh}$). When we use computerized draping method to make a personalized pattern for a tigth skirt, we easily create complex dart lines automatically. Therefore we achieve the result of individual dart amount such as distance between dart lines and dart areas. C type of hip shape had short dart length, long distance between dart lines and a large amount of dart area. On the other hand, A type had long dart length, short distance between dart lines and small amount of dart area. B type had long length and long distance between dart lines and large amount of dart area. In traditional pattern making, distance between dart lines is usually proportional to amount of dart area because of similarity in dart line shape. In our pattern, there is no proportional relationship between dart line distance and dart area. This means that variations in hip shapes result in a wide variety of dart line curvature resulting in a wide range of dart area. By ensuring an accurate relationship between hip shape and pattern, it is possible to make patterns which result in clothing that not only fits well, but also exhibits other desirable properties.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.9
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• pp.1504-1514
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• 2010

Relationship marketing can be one of the most efficient strategies to enable a company to achieve business success in the recent marketing environment of tough competition and the diverse desires of consumers for new products. Using relationship marketing instead of mass marketing can help a company increase profits. For proper research in relationship marketing, it is indispensable to study relationship benefits. This study provides specific information in terms of relationship benefits to help develop the marketoriented strategy of a company. The results are as follow. The relationship benefit had a significantly positive effect on relationship quality (trust, satisfaction, and commitment). A relationship benefit was divided into three dimensions: customization benefit, informational benefit, and emotional benefit. Especially, emotional benefit appears as the most positive effect on satisfaction and the customization benefit appeared as the most positive effect on trust and commitment. The customization benefit and emotional benefit had a significantly positive effect on long-term relationship orientation, repurchase intention, and word of mouth. Informational benefit was not a significant influence on repurchase intention and word of mouth. Customization benefit appeared the most positive effect on long-term relationship orientation and word' of mouth. Emotional benefit appeared the most positive effect on repurchase intention. The relationship quality had a significantly positive effect on relationship performance. The findings of this study provide both industry and academic researchers with a guide to increase customer satisfaction in the relationship marketing process.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.56-62
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• 2005

Fancy Yarn has developed diverse textures in fabrics, reducing the time in yarn and fabric production or apparel making in order to develop creative goods. In this study aimed to propose the use of a 4D box system to make fancy yarn shapes with loops, knops and spirals and the like. The change in texture was analysed and simulated to produce a suitable fabric image by using the fancy yarns fabric. The results are as follows. The plain weave, 2/2 basket weave, 2/2 twill weave, 2/2 2 complete broken weaves, and 5 harness sateen weaves were woven and a fabric image formed. In the case of the loop and the knop yarns fabric image, compared to the twisted fabric image the surface was covered by loops or some parts became partially black. In the case of the spiral shape it showed pattern continuity in spiral shapes 1, 2 and 3. The more twisted spirals produced a diamond shaped pattern or a twill line and a herring bone shaped twill line. An evenly distributed black fabric image appeared in 5 harness sateen weave. For the loop shape the broken weave or 5 harness sateen weave was produced; basket weave and broken weave for the knop yarn 1 or knop yarn 2; and for the spiral shape a plain fabric or 5 harness sateen weave were produced much similar to the fabric image. The surface texture of the mapped image compared to the twisted fabric image produces fancy yarn fabric images covered with loops or irregular spots caused by the knop and the spiral. Therefore it is appropriate or suitable for the simulation of tweed or woolen wool fabrics. The fabric image which produced consistent and continuous lines is therefore more suitable for simulations of twill or herringbone fabric images.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.19-30
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• 2002

The word 'lace' comes from the Latin, lacium, meaning a knot. There are two broad categories of lace: needlepoint lace and bobbin lace. Lace has enjoyed a multitude of uses, embellishing both liturgical and domestic objects. It has also played a major role in the history of western fashion, adorning the apparel of men as well as women. Lace lappets and cap crowns, cravat ends and veils were made for those who could afford them. Before the end of the sixteen century, more complex techniques were employed. The baroque period, needlepoint lace evolved from the early simple geometric patterns of punto in aria Which enhanced ruffs, to deeply scalloped designs, often referred to as collar lace, and thence to the bold and magnificent relief effects of Venetian gros point. Through the seventeenth century is noted for the infinite variety of its cravat, collar and kerchief, most of them lace trimmed and all artfully contrived for the wearer. The type of sleeve in women's dress reaching just below the elbow, ending in ruffles of lace which was called engageantes. Sometimes the ends of a fichu or headdress decorated of lace. In the nineteenth century, empress Eugenie's love of lace resulted in a marked increase in the use of that lovely, delicate fabrication. It was lavished upon sleeves, hats, capes, and handkerchieves. Entire flounces, parasols, jackets, and shawls of lace were created by skilled lace makers of Europe. By the time this magnificent piece was created, most lace was being produced by machine. Today, the tradition of handmade lace continues, but glorious examples are no longer made. However, the techniques have been taken up and revitalized within the fiber art movement.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.109-121
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• 2012

This study aims at developing ergonomics patterns for the sleeve of structural firefighting protective clothing through 3D motion analysis in order to ensure efficiency and safety of firefighters who are exposed to harmful environment at work. A new research pattern was developed by applying the total results of 3D motion analysis, changes of body surface length measurements, and 2D data on 3D body shape analysis on the size 3 patterns of the existing coat sleeve. For the sleeves, we used the body surface length of the range of shoulder's flexion and the joint angle of the range of wrist's ulnar deviation. And for the production of structural firefighting protective clothing using the research pattern, we recruited a recognized producer of structural firefighting protective clothing designated by KFI. Unlike everyday clothes, structural firefighting protective clothing should be able to fully protect the wearers from the harmful environment that threatens their lives and should not cause any restrictions on their movement. Therefore, the focus of research and development of such protective clothing should be placed on consistent development of new technologies and production methods that will provide protection and comfort for the wearer rather than production cost reduction or operational efficiency. This study is meaningful as it applied 3D motion analysis instead of the existing methods to develop the patterns. In particular, since 3D motion analysis enables the measurement of the range of motion, there should be continuous research on the development of ergonomics patterns that consider workers' range of motion.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.979-988
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze the lower body size and forms of married women in their thirties who have experienced pregnancy and parturition. Their measurements derived from the direct anthropometry and indirect photographic measures were compared to those of 20's. Improving consumer satisfaction for missy brand, especially in fitness of skirt and pants, some lower body classification were presented. The results were as follows : 1. The characteristics of lower body showed many differences by individuals especially in depth, girth, length and angle measures rather than height and breadth measures. Many items including index, calculations and angles revealed significant differences compared to those of 20's. Several breadth items, crotch length had distinct increase than those of women in twenties. Flattened buttocks side silhouette from waist to hip, buttocks drooping and decrease of inclination implied the influence of pregnancy, parturition and aging. 2. We hardly find out sizing system differences between missy brand and miss brand. Based on waist and hip girth measurements of subjects, sizing system of missy apparel wasn't suitable for their body size. Excessive drop(hip girth-waist girth) of missy brands, 25~30 cm, was almost the same to the drop of miss brands. 3. To improve the size satisfaction of missy women, we classified the lower body into 5 types according to drop, buttocks angle and hip length. Type 1 was small waist with large buttocks projection, and hip length was close to an average. Type 2 was small waist with medium buttocks projection, and the hip length was close to an average. Type 3 was medium waist, with average projection of the buttocks and hip length. Type 4 was large waist, projection of the buttocks and the hip length were close to an average. Type 5 was large waist, projection of the buttocks was small and the hip length was close to an average.