• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.48 no.4
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• pp.373-383
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• 2022

Inflammation caused by active oxygen and the resulting barrier damage have been consistently pointed out as the cause of wrinkle formation. In this study, effective index ingredient search and efficacy analysis were performed to verify the value of use as a functional cosmetic material related to antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and skin barrier improvement, and anti-aging for extracts of four types of Eleutherococcus divaricatus var. chiisanensis (ED), Eleutherococcus senticosus (EN), Eleutherococcus sessiliflorus (ES), and Eleutherococcus sieboldianus (EI) belonging to the Eleutherococcus genus. To identify the effective index composition, the content of the ingredients was measured by high-performance liquid chromatography. The content of eleutheroside E and chlorogenic acid was the highest in ED among the Eleutherococcus genus. As for anti-oxidant activity, DPPH radical scavenging activity was the highest in ED. In anti-inflammatory effects, ED extracts inhibited nitric oxide generation in inflammatory macrophage cells due to lipopolysaccharide by 40% at 100 ㎍/mL. In the case of IL-6 inhibition, which is known as a pro-inflammatory cytokine, ED showed 41% inhibition at 100 ㎍/mL. In addition, filaggrin and involucrin, which are skin barrier-related factors, were increased by 2.5 times and 1.6 times, respectively, in 100 ㎍/mL of ED extracts, and as for the collagenase, which is a wrinkle-related factor, ED extract showed 29% efficacy at 100 ㎍/mL. Thus, these result suggested that ED extract, among the four Eleutherococcus genus, can be used as a cosmetic ingredient for suppressing inflammation in the skin, reinforcing the skin barrier, and reducing wrinkles.

• Journal of Convergence for Information Technology
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• v.11 no.8
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• pp.212-223
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• 2021

This study has purposes : evaluating how safe the skin is when applied with the Spicules-containing cosmetic, and whether Diamond-spicules is permeated into the skin and showed the efficacy of the active ingredients well. For these aims, women in their 30s and 60s were surveyed for skin irritation and changes after applying cosmetics to their skin for four weeks. As a result, Spicules-containing cosmetics were safer on the skin than general functional cosmetics, and in particular, in the case of cosmetics containing Diamond-spicules, statistically significant results (p<.001) were obtained in improvement of anti-wrinkle, firmness, moisturizing, whitening, alleviation of inflammation, and sensitivity. Thus, It has been proved Diamond-spicules containing functional active ingredients, not only as transdermal delivery system, but also can be used as multifunctional cosmetic material.

• Korean Journal of Medicinal Crop Science
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.119-126
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• 2018

Background: The flowering plant Hippophae rhamnoides L. has been used for many studies on fruit or leaf extracts. This study was conducted to investigate the development of a new cosmetic material from H. rhamnoides fruits and leaves that have by antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and wrinkle improvement activities. Methods and Results: The antioxidant abilities of H. rhamnoides extracts, including of a water-soluble fruit powder (FW), a fatsoluble fruit powder (FF), a supercritical extract of fruit by-product (BS), and a mixture of leaf and fruit (MIX), were investigated in vitro. A DPPH radical assay for antioxidant activity was performed for these fractions alongside assay to evaluate the total phenolic and flavonoid content (TPC and TFC). As expected, the MIX had the highest DPPH radical scavenging activity ($RC_{50}=10.27{\mu}g/m{\ell}$), and the TPC and TFC also were highest in MIX ($225.7mg{\cdot}GAE/g$, and $25.18mg{\cdot}QE/g$, respectively). Nitric oxide (NO) production in LPS-induced RAW264.7 cells was estimated and the results indicated an over 75% decrease of NO production in FF and MIX. In other assays, the highest elastase inhibitory activity was found in FW. Conclusions: These results revealed that H. rhamnoides extracts have a high potential for antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antiwrinkle activities. H. rhamnoides products are suggested to be applied as the functional materials of cosmetic ingredients.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09a
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• pp.820-829
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• 2003

One of the important function of skin is the protection from harmful environments. Many studies were carried out to keep the skin from wrinkling and pigmenting. Skin wrinkle and pigmentation could be caused' by the unusual disruption of connective tissue, the formation of free radicals and the radiation of ultraviolet. In this study, the extracts obtained from 23 different kinds of medicinal plants were examined whether they have inhibitory effect on tyrosinase and elastase as well as free radical scavenging effect. All the extracts examined were obtained by using 70% (v/v) ethanol at $60^{\circ}C$. It has been found that there were two medicinal plants which have positive effects matching with the purpose of this study. The extract of Ephedra sinica stapf shows an inhibitory effect on tyrosinase ($IC_{50}$ = 83.7~$\mu\textrm{g}$/ml), on elastase ($IC_{50}$ = $690{\mu}\textrm{g}$/ml), and also shows free radical scavenging effect ($IC_{50}$ = 29.6$\mu\textrm{g}$/ml). The extract of Betula platyphylla Var. shows an inhibitory effect on elastase ($IC_{50}$ = 498.1$\mu\textrm{g}$/ml), and free radical scavenging effect ($IC_{50}$ = 9$\mu\textrm{g}$/ ml). The aim of the study is to find the natural compounds which have function in skin-lightening, anti-wrinkling and anti-oxidation, with safe and active ingredients in cosmetic.

• Korean Journal of Medicinal Crop Science
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.22-28
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• 2017

Background: To date, the anti-wrinkle efficacy of phellodendri cortex has not been defined. In this study, we investigated the nitric oxide (NO) production and elastase inhibitory activities of 80% methanol extract of Phellodendri cortex and its ethyl acetate fraction. Methods and Results: We prepared 80% methanol extract, and its fractions from phellodendri cortex. The treatment of RAW 264.7 cell with $25{\mu}g/m{\ell}$ 80% methanol extract and ethyl acetate fraction resulted in no toxicity. We conducted assays of nitric oxide (NO) production and elastase inhibition. In the NO production assay, the ethyl acetate fraction showed an inhibitory effect approximately 17 times stronger than the 80% methanol extract. In elastase inhibitory assay, the ethyl acetate fraction also showed a stronger effect than the 80% methanol extract. In order to standardize the extract and fraction, we used TLC to separate the extract and observed the plate under UV light. We confirmed that the known pharmacological ingredients berberine, and palmatine in the 80% methanol extract and the ethyl acetate fraction. Conclusions: These results indicated that phellodendri cortex extract and its ethyl acetate fraction produced strong inhibitory effect on elastase and NO production.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.201-205
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• 2004

In these several years, as many people have been attracted by the functional cosmetics, there are a lot of study to enhance the stability of active ingredients for light, heat, oxygen, etc. in the academic and industrial field. Especially, catechin is well known as strong anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory and reducing agent for oxidative stress but it is very unstable for light, heat, oxygen. etc. In this study, the stability and skin penetration of catechin are improved by 3-dimensional method. As I-dimension, porous silica is prepared using sol-gel method, and then catechin is adsorbed in pores of silica. As 2-dimension, solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN) are obtained using non-phospholipid vesicles. Finally 3-dimension is completion through lamellar phase self-organization that combines SLN catechin with skin lipid matrix. We used laser light scattering system, cyro-SEM, chromameter, HPLC and image analyzer to analyze our 3-dimentional systems. According to chromameter date, the color stability of 3-dimensional catechin is enhanced by 5-10 times compared with general liposome systems. We also confirmed through HPLC analysis that 3-dimensional catechin is more long lasting. The effect of skin penetration and wrinkle reduction are improved, too.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.36 no.3
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• pp.821-829
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• 2019

This study was conducted to evaluate the applicability of the extracts from nipa palm, molokhia, and finger root in functional cosmetics as a natural active ingredient. The extracts were obtained through the processes of heating under reflux with ethanol, filtration, concentration, and freeze-drying. UV absorption and blocking effects of the extracts were examined by using the UV-vis spectrophotometer equipped with an integrating sphere. Antioxidant activity and its stability between the extracts were compared using the 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging assay. Also, total polyphenol content in the extracts was determined quantitatively using the Folin-Ciocalteu reagent, with gallic acid as the standard. Antibacterial activity of the extracts was investigated by the disc diffusion test against Staphylococcus aureus (gram-positive) and Escherichia coli (gram-negative). Finally, collagenase inhibitor assay was performed to examine the anti-wrinkle effect of the extracts. From the results of this study, the extract of nipa palm showed the potential for use in cosmetics as an antioxidant and anti-wrinkle agent, and the extract of finger root as a sunscreen and antibacterial agent.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.3
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• pp.165-173
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• 2007

In the previous study, we reported the antioxidative and cellular protective effects of Jeju native plant extracts. In this study, we investigated the anti-oxidative, anti-wrinkle and whitening effects of new 37 plant extracts collected from self-growing plants in Jeju island. Their anti-oxidant activities were measured by the 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl(DPPH) radical scavenging assay and reactive oxygen species(ROS) scavenging assay in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system. The cytoprotective properties of 37 plant extracts were assessed in the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes. The inhibitory effect of 37 plant extracts on tyrosinase were investigated to assess their whitening efficacy. Finally, their anti-elastase activities were measured to predict the anti-wrinkle efficacy in the human skin. The results showed that the extracts of Myrica rubra stem bark and Securinega suffruticosa have the free radical scavenging activity($FSC_{50}:\;5,\;8{\mu}g/mL$, respectively), and the extracts of Quercus acutissima leaf and Securinega suffruticosa stem bark have the prominent ROS scavenging activity($OSC_{50}:\;0.009{\mu}g/mL$). Photohemolysis of erythrocytes in the presence of rose-bengal as a sensitizer was inhibited by the extracts of Securinega suffruticosa stem bark and Salix koreensis stem(${\tau}_{50}$, 895 min, 640 min at 50 ${\mu}g/mL$, respectively. Myrica rubra stem bark extract(77.8% at 200 ${\mu}g/mL$) and Salix koreensis stem extract(76.2% at 200 ${\mu}g/mL$) also have the inhibitory effect on tyrosinase and elastase activities, respectively. These results indicated that the stem park of Myrica rubra, Securinega suffruticosa, and Camellia japonica, the stem of Salix koreensis, and the leaf of Quercus aqutissima and Camellia japonica could have e benefitial effects when they are added as ingredients in cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.32 no.3 s.58
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• pp.181-191
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• 2006

In this study, we investigated the anti-oxidative, anti-wrinkle and whitening effects of 36 plant extracts collected from self-growing plants in Jeju island. Their anti-oxidant activities were measured by free radical scavenging activity using DPPH (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl radical), reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay, and cell protecting activities using the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes. In addition, the inhibitory activities of tyrosinase for whitening effect and elastase for anti-wrinkle were investigated. The results showed that the Rumex crispus (all grass) extract has the most significant free radical scavenging activity ($FSC_{50};\;10{\mu}g/mL$), Plantago asiatica and Rumex crispus extracts for the prominent ROS scavenging activity ($OSC_{50};\;0.006{\mu}g/mL$, $0.04{\mu}g/mL$ respectively), Rumex crispus ($\tau_{50};\;1,140 min $at $50{\mu}g/mL$), Machilus thunbergii leaf (216 min), and Celastrus orbiculatus (200 min) for cell protecting effects, Morus alba stem for the inhibitory activity on tyrosinse (94.8% at $200{\mu}g/mL$), Rumex crispus (81.8% at $200{\mu}g/mL$), Morus alba (74.6%), and Celastrus orbiculatus leaf/stem/flower (63.1%) for the activity on elastase. These results indicated that the extracts of Rumex crispus, Plantago asiatica, Machilus thunbergii leaf, Morus alba stem, Celastrus orbiculatus leaf/stem/flower could have the functional effects when they are added as ingredients in cosmetics. Thus, it is concluded that further experiments are needed to apply for cosmetic products.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.107-117
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to provide basic data for the development of UV protection products using natural materials. The research method is investigation and analyzation of the current status of the domestic and foreign industries, natural material research trends, and patent status of skin care-related sunscreen. As the result of the study, the U.S. market for sunscreen is the largest one, accounting for about 21% of the world, and the Chinese market is rapidly growing. The top four major types of functional cosmetics in Korea are complex functional products, followed by wrinkle improvement, sunscreen and whitening, and both the global and domestic markets continue to grow continuously. Over the past decade, research trends in natural sunscreen materials have shown that Scutellaria baicalensis, Humulus lupulus L., licorice, Finger root, Green tea, lespedeza cuneata extracts are effective, and in addition, they are also effective in photo-aging, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, whitening, and wrinkle improvement. The patent registration status is on the rise and the ingredients were secured from plants and seaweeds. As the conclusion of this research, It is expected that natural UV protection material will be able to be used as multi-functional cosmetics material by developing safe and proven natural materials in line with future global trends.