• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.2
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• pp.191-200
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• 2018

In this study, we conducted research to find anti-wrinkle skin care ingredients from natural sources via the measurement of procollagen type 1 levels in the medium of normal human dermal fibroblast (NHDF) and found that a Nelumbo nucifera leave extract (NLE) was as the best effective ingredient. By the high performance liquid chromatography analysis, we confirmed isoquercitrin was one of the main compounds of NLE. Moreover, it also increased the procollagen type 1 production without cytotoxicity of NHDF. NLE and isoquercitrin exerted free radical scavenging activity. Especially, isoquercitrin exhibited strong intracellular antioxidant capacity in human skin-derived cells, HaCaT and NHDF. Finally, we performed clinical test for the inhibitory effect of NLE on skin wrinkle formation. A randomized study was conducted in 22 healthy female volunteers, aged between 30 and 65 yrs, with moderate to moderately severe facial wrinkles. Volunteer applied a 1.7% NLE cream (isoquercitrin 51 ppm) and a control cream at each facial side (left/right) twice daily for 8 weeks. The 1.7% NLE cream improved skin roughness through reducing the wrinkle of the craw's feet significantly without any skin side effect. Our results demonstrate that NLE and isoquercitrin can increase the collagen production and exert antioxidant activity. Therefore, we expect that the new non-toxic herbal extract, isoquercitrin-containing NLE will be interesting natural ingredient of cosmetics with anti-wrinkle efficacy.

• Archives of Pharmacal Research
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.469-474
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• 2002

The inner shell of the chestnut (Castanea crenata S. et Z., Fagaceae) has been used as an anti-wrinkle/skin firming agent in East Asia, and preliminary experiments have found that a 70% ethanol extract from this plant material can prevent cell detachment of skin fibroblasts from culture plates. In order to examine the molecular mechanisms underlying this phenomenon, its effects on the expression of adhesion molecules, such as fibronectin and vitronectin, were investigated using the mouse skin fibroblast cell line, NIH/3T3. Using fixed-cell ELISA, Western blotting and immunofluorescence cell staining, it was clearly demonstrated that the chestnut inner shell extract enhanced the expression of the cell-associated fibronectin and vitronectin. Scoparone (6,7-dimethoxycoumarin), isolated from the extract, also possessed similar properties. These findings suggest that the enhanced expression of the adhesion molecules may be one of the molecular mechanisms for how the chestnut inner shell extract preventing cell detachment and may be also responsible for its anti-wrinkle/skin firming effect.

• Korean Journal of Food Science and Technology
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• v.52 no.4
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• pp.385-395
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• 2020

This study examined the effect of 3,4-dihydroxytoluene (DHT) on UVB-induced photoaging and determined its molecular mechanisms, using HaCaT human keratinocytes and SKH-1 hairless mice. DHT suppressed UVB-induced matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) expression in HaCaT cells. In vivo data from mouse skin supported that DHT decreased UVB-induced wrinkle formation, epidermal thickness, and matrix metalloproteinase-13 (MMP-13) expression. DHT appeared to exert its anti-aging effects by suppressing UVB-induced Raf-1 kinase activity and subsequent attenuation of UVB-induced phosphorylation of MEK, ERK, and p90RSK in HaCaT cells. In vitro and in vivo pull-down assays revealed that DHT bound with Raf-1 in ATP-noncompetitive manner. Overall, DHT appears to anti-photoaging effects in vitro and in vivo through the suppression of Raf-1 kinase activity and may have potential as a treatment for the prevention of skin aging.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.734-738
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• 2011

Aging in humans is inexorable and inescapable. The progressive decrease of physiological capacity and the reduction of the ability to cope with environmental stresses lead to increased susceptibility and vulnerability to human disease. Recently, in the cosmetic industry, many researchers have paid considerable attention to delaying or improving the symptoms of skin aging. Since the early 1990`s, there have been various challenges in developing cosmeceutical products which have strong anti-aging effects, and this has been an important issue in the cosmetic industry. Meanwhile, development of anti-aging cosmetics supported by biochemical activities in the skin has been researched. Castanea crenata inner Shell solvent extracts were investigated for anti-wrinkle and whitening effects, in order to apply it as a functional ingredient for cosmetic products. For anti-wrinkle effect, elastase inhibition activity of Castanea crenata inner shell acetone extract (CA) was 51.0% at a concentration of 100 ug/ml. The collagenase inhibition activity of CA and Castanea crenata inner shell ethanol extract (CE) was 96.4%, 94.3% at a concentration of 50 ug/ml. The tyrosinase inhibitory effect, which is related to skin-whitening, was 47.2% and 45.8% in CA and CE at a concentration of 500 ug/ml. All these results suggest that Castanea crenata inner shell can be effectively used as a cosmeceutical ingredient for the prevention of wrinkles.

• Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology
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• v.29 no.9
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• pp.1349-1360
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• 2019

Chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, regarded as a major cause of extrinsic aging or photoaging characterized by wrinkle formation and skin dehydration, exerts adverse effects on skin by causing the overproduction of reactive oxygen species. Agastache rugosa Kuntze, known as Korean mint, possesses a wide spectrum of biological properties including anti-oxidation, anti-inflammation, and anti-atherosclerosis. Previous studies have reported that A. rugosa protected human keratinocytes against UVB irradiation by restoring the anti-oxidant defense system. However, the anti-photoaging effect of A. rugosa extract (ARE) in animal models has not yet been evaluated. ARE was orally administered to hairless mice at doses of 100 or 250 mg/kg/day along with UVB exposure for 12 weeks. ARE histologically improved UVB-induced wrinkle formation, epidermal thickening, erythema, and hyperpigmentation. In addition, ARE recovered skin moisture by improving skin hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Along with this, ARE increased hyaluronic acid levels by upregulating HA synthase genes. ARE markedly increased the density of collagen and the amounts of hydroxypoline via two pathways. First, ARE significantly downregulated the mRNA expression of matrix metalloproteinases responsible for collagen degradation by inactivating the mitogen-activated protein kinase/activator protein 1 pathway. Second, ARE stimulated the transforming growth factor beta/Smad signaling, consequently raising the mRNA levels of collagen-related genes. In addition, ARE not only increased the mRNA expression of anti-oxidant enzymes but also decreased inflammatory cytokines by blocking the protein expression of nuclear factor kappa B. Collectively, our findings suggest that A. rugosa may be a potential preventive and therapeutic agent for photoaging.

• The Korea Journal of Herbology
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.111-117
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• 2011

Objectives : The present study was designed to investigate effects of mixed extract from korean medicinal herbs (MIX) on oxidation/reduction reaction-related and aging-related enzyme in vitro. Methods : We performed MTT assay, collagenase inhibition assay, elastase inhibition assay, tyrosinase inhibition assay, DPPH free radical scavenging assay, SOD-like activity and xanthine oxidase inhibition assay. Results : Recently, many studies have reported that elastin is also involved in inhibiting or repairing wrinkle formation, although collagen is a major factor in the skin wrinkle formation. The MIX showed 97% inhibition of collagenase activity, and 64% inhibition of elastase activity at 1 mg/ml concentration of MIX, next only to positive control, which indicate good efficacy for anti-wrinkle ingredient. Also it's treatment showed 34% inhibition of tyrosinase activity, to relate whitening effect, at the same dose of MIX. Antioxidant activities were determined by DPPH radical scavenging, xanthine oxidase (XO) inhibiting activity and SOD-like activity. Also these scavenging, XO-inhibiting and SOD-like activities were measured in 91%, 80%, and 63% inhibition, respectively, at a treated dose of 1 mg/ml, compare to control. Conclusions : These results suggest that possibility of mixed korean medicinal herbs as a functional ingredient for anti-wrinkle and whitening, anti-oxidation and anti-aging cosmetic formula.

• Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation
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• v.38 no.2
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• pp.87-92
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• 2008

Wood vinegar is well known as a softening agent affecting on the stratum corneum that is easy to penetrate into the skin. In this study, we prepared mixed ursolic acid hydrogel with wood vinegar(1, 2, 5%) as a penetration enhancer. The accumulation of ursolic acid in the skin from hydrogels was evaluated in vitro hairless mouse skin and skin moisturizing effect of them was evaluated using the corneometer and the tewermeter. And the role of stratum corneum as a protective barrier was evaluated as well. The hydrogels were retained about 40% of water retention capacity 2hrs and had better effect on the stripped skin than full-thickness skin. The accumulation of ursolic acid through stripped skin from hydrogels with wood vinegar was not change compared to normal skin, which indicated the action site of wood vinegar and the accumulation site of ursolic acid would be stratum corneum. From these result, we could find wood vinegar seems to be a good enhancer for active materials with anti-wrinkle and anti aging effect such as ursolic acid, and can be a developed topical delivery system maintaining excellent water retention capacity.

• Clean Technology
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.306-314
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• 2021

Grape skins are a natural resource rich in antioxidants, but people only eat grape flesh and have discarded the skins. This study investigated the possibility of using grape skin extract as a raw material for functional cosmetics. The dried grape skin powder was put in distilled water and stirred for 1 h, and then the supernatant separated from the solid was used as an extract. The extract yield was 17.8 ~ 31.4%, and the total flavonoid and polyphenol contents in the extract were 1.8 ~ 2.5 mg-QE g-extract^-1 and 16.9 ~ 20.3 mg-GAE g-extract^-1, respectively. The extract effectively removed radicals of DPPH and ABTS, and the degree of scavenging increased with the concentration of the extract. The extract inhibited the collagen hydrolysis activity of collagenase, and the activity inhibition rate increased to 84.2% as the extract concentration increased. However, notable inhibition of tyrosinase by the extract was not found. As the extract of Chamaecyparis obtusa was added to the grape-skin extract, the tyrosinase inhibition rate increased, but the DPPH radical scavenging activity decreased. This study found that grape skin extract has a high antioxidant capacity and anti-wrinkle effect but a low whitening effect. However, by mixing the grape skin extract with the extract of C. obtusa in an optimal ratio, the whitening effect was improved with excellent antioxidant and anti-wrinkle effects.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.47 no.1
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• pp.65-73
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• 2021

It is very important to control the inflammation of the skin because it can develop into diseases such as atopy as well as scarring and aging. In this work, we recently identified the in vitro synthesis of specialized pro-resolving mediators (SPMs) known to control inflammation in the human body and the applicability of cosmetics. Using recombinant protein of lipoxygenase from Glycine max, we succeeded to prepare mixtures of mono- or di-hydroxy DHA named as S-SPMs and used them for in vitro efficacy test. To investigate anti-inflammatory effect of S-SPMs, mRNA level of TNF-α and IL-6 were analyzed. Under UVB exposed condition, expression of both were decreased by S-SPMs treatment. And we observed reduced production of nitric oxide (NO) by S-SPMs application under the condition with diesel particulate matter (DPM). At the same experimental condition, malondialdehyde (MDA) production was decreased by S-SPMs, indicating the inhibitory effect of S-SPMs in lipid peroxidation. In addition, S-SPMs treatment resulted in reduction of matrix metalloproteinases-1 (MMP-1) expression and elevation of procollagen type I synthesis. Together with this, mRNA level of filaggrin and loricrin were increased by S-SPMs, indicating enhancement of skin barrier function. These results demonstrate that S-SPMs is a good candidate to develop as a cosmetic ingredient for anti-inflammation, anti-wrinkle, and improvement of skin barrier function.

• CELLMED
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.2.1-2.4
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• 2019

With the improvement of economic status and the desire for beauty, the interest in health and skin care is increasing. For these demands, since ages medicinal plants are in vogue. A variety of plants, cosmetics and foods with novel bioactive ingredients for skin care and beauty are under constant research and development. Skin is influenced by various factors such as Ultra-violet rays, stress, hormones and aging which together lead skin to lose elasticity, changes in pigmentation and wrinkle formation. Many medicinal plants have proven effects in skin care and beauty treatment. From this list of medicinal plants, one which is famous for its beauty, flavor and fragrance is Rosa damascene. Rosa damascene has many therapeutic action and postulated pharmacological studies such as anti-arthritic, anti-microbial, cardio protective, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, analgesic, immune-modulator, gastro-protective, and skin ameliorative effect. Research in the field of Cosmetology has proven the effect of Rosa damascene in rehydrating skin, reducing scars and stretches, acne management, lowering skin pigmentation, delaying wrinkling and is recommended as a skin vitalizing agent. In this review, the morphology, chemical constituents, and some pharmacological activity are discussed.