• Food Science and Preservation
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.234-241
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• 2013

The phenolic compounds of water extracts from Prunella vulgaris were highest at 9.25 mg/g, respectively, when various extraction solvents were used. The optimum condition for extracting phenolic compounds from Prunella vulgaris was extraction in water for 18hr. The DPPH-scavenging activities of Prunella vulgaris were highest at the water extracts. The ABTS radical cation decolorization was higher than 40% in the range of 0~100% ethanol extract section. The antioxidant protection factor on the lipophilic phenolic metabolites was shown to be 1.1 PF in the water extracts from Prunella vulgaris. The TBARS was lower than the control ($0.53{\mu}M$) in all the sections. The tyrosinase inhibitory effect, which is related to skin whitening, was above 40%, and for the anti-wrinkle effect, the elastase inhibition activity was above 40% at 0.2 mg/mL. The astringent effect of the Prunella vulgaris 40% ethanol extracts was 98.1% at 1 mg/mL. As a result, it can be concluded that Prunella vulgaris has the potential to be used as a cosmetic material.

• Food Science and Preservation
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.393-399
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• 2012

In this study, the antioxidant and anti-wrinkling effects of extracts from Aruncus diocius var. kamtschaticus (ADV) were investigated. According to the results, the ethanol extract has better antioxidant and anti-wrinkling effects than the water extract. The amounts of total polyphenol and flavonoid compounds in the ethanol extract were 122 and 36 mg/g, respectively, while those in the water extract were 87 and 26 mg/g. The antioxidant activities of the ethanol and water extracts were 395 and 4,682 ${\mu}g/mL$ as the $RC_{50}$ values for the DPPH radical scavenging activity, and 227 and 366 ${\mu}g/mL$ for the $ABTS^+$ radical scavenging activity, respectively. The reducing power of the ethanol extract (1.58 at 2 mg/mL) was higher than that of the water extract (0.88 at 2 mg/mL). The astringent activities of the ethanol and water extracts were 91.27 and 16.35% at 10 mg/mL, respectively. Furthermore, the ADV ethanol extract treatment of the fibroblast cell after UV irradiation resulted in increased cell viability (10% at 100 ${\mu}g/mL$) and collagen biosynthesis (33% at 100 ${\mu}g/mL$), with a lowering in the MMP-1 expression level (16.8 % at 100 ${\mu}g/mL$). These results demonstrate that AVD provides a remarkable and significant tensor and anti-wrinkling effect on the skin, which could be of a great use in anti-aging skin care products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.157-165
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• 2010

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase and elastase of Rhododendron brachycarpum D. Don extracts were investigated. And the moisturizing effect of cream containing R. brachycarpum D. Don extract were investigated by clinical trial. The ethyl acetate fraction of R. brachycarpum D. Don extract (1.83 ${\mu}g/mL$) showed the most prominent the free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of R. brachycarpum D. Don extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The 50 % extract fraction (0.064 ${\mu}g/mL$) showed the most prominent ROS scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of R. brachycarpum D. Don on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The R. brachycarpum D. Don extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner (1 ~ 10 ${\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effects ($IC_{50}$) of R. brachycarpum D. Don extracts on tyrosinase were determined with ethyl acetate fraction of R. brachycarpum D. Don extract (70.5 ${\mu}g/mL$) and aglycone fraction of extract (122.40 ${\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effects ($IC_{50}$) on elastase were determined with ethyl acetate of R. brachycarpum D. Don extract (43.50 ${\mu}g/mL$) and aglycone fraction of extract (20.73 ${\mu}g/mL$). The cream containing the ethyl acetate fraction of R. brachycarpum D. Don extracts was formulated for skin hydration effect and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The cream containing R. brachycarpum D. Don extract was applied to the right lower arm. After 180 min, the water contents in skin were increased by 1 ~ 4 % than the placebo cream. And TEWL of parts was decreased as 7.7 $g/m^2h$ (experimental cream) and 8.9 $g/m^2h$ (placebo cream) respectively. These results indicate that extract/fractions of R. brachycarpum D. Don can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. And inhibitory activity on tyrosinase of the aglycone fraction could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for whitening and anti-wrinkle products. Also the increase of skin hydration of the cream containing extract could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for antiaging.

• Korean Journal of Food Science and Technology
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• v.40 no.4
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• pp.436-442
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• 2008

Hydroxyproline and Pro-Hyp dipeptide are the digestive products of collagen hydrolysate called collagen peptide. Some suggested that collagen peptides could improve aged or damaged skins, however, the effects of collagen peptides on the skin have not been known. In this study, we investigated the effects of digestive products of collagen peptides, hydroxyproline and Pro-Hyp dipeptide on skin quality using the UV-damaged dorsal skin of hairless mouse as a model system. Female SKH hairless mice were pre-irradiated with UV for 7 weeks, and then hydroxyproline, Pro-Hyp dipeptide were orally administered for 7 weeks with UV irradiation. Wrinkle formation (by replica image), skin elasticity, barrier status (by TEWL, transepidermal water loss), epidermis thickness, and biophysical changes in the stratum comeum (by hematoxylin & eosin staining) were examined. With the oral peptide treatment, effects such as skin barrier maintenance, anti-skin thickening, and recovery of the stratum corneum were observed. These results indicate that oral intake of collagen peptides may have beneficial effects on damaged skin cells.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.39 no.3
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• pp.177-186
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• 2013

Skin dermal fibroblast is the major collagen-producing cell type in human skin. As aging process continues in human skin, collagen production is reduced and fragmentation is increased, which is initiated by matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1). This imbalance of collagen homeostasis impairs the structure and function of dermal collagenous extracellular matrix (ECM), thereby promoting skin aging. Cysteine-rich protein 61 (CCN1), a member of the CCN family, negatively regulates collagen homeostasis in primary human skin dermal fibroblast cells. It is known in aging fibroblast cells that elevated CCN1 expression substantially reduces type I procollagen and concurrently increases MMP-1, which initiates fibrillar collagen degradation. And proliferation rate of aging fibroblast cells is reduced compared to the pre-aging fibroblast cells. In this study, we confirmed that the replicative senescence dermal fibroblast cells increased the expression levels of MMP-1 and decreased the production of type I procollagen. Our results also showed that the replicative senescence dermal fibroblast cells increased in the expression of CCN1 and decreased in the proliferation rate. Hydrolyzed Ulva pertusa extracts are the materials to improve photo-aging by reducing the expression of MMP-1 that was increased by ultraviolet and by promoting the synthesis of new collagen from fibroblast cells. In this study, we also investigated the hydrolyzed U. pertusa extract to see whether it inhibits CCN1 protein expression in the senescence fibroblasts. Results showed that the hydrolyzed U. pertusa extract inhibited the expression of MMP-1 and increased the production of type I procollagen in the aging skin fibroblast cells cultured. In addition, the proteins that regulate collagen homeostasis CCN1 expression were greatly reduced. The hydrolyzed U. pertusa extract increased the proliferation rate of the aging fibroblast cells. These results suggest that replicative senescent fibroblast cells may be used in the study of cosmetic ingredients as a model of the natural aging. In conclusion, the hydrolyzed U. pertusa extract can be used in anti-wrinkle functional cosmetic material to improve the natural aging skin care as well as photo-aging.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.19 no.12
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• pp.62-70
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• 2018

In this study, we synthesized Oligo Peptide (Lys-Val-Ala-Arg-Pro: KVARP) and peptide derivatives using Solid Phase Peptide Synthesis(SPPS). KVARP was commonly known to improve whitening of skin. We measured bio-activity of the synthesized compounds. The whitening effect was measured in tyrosinase inhibition and the result showed to be highly effective with 93% inhibition rate at $5000{\mu}g/m{\ell}$ of Geranic-KVARP, on the other hand the IC50 value was $68{\mu}g/m{\ell}$. The wrinkle-reducing effect was measured by elastase inhibition at a concentration of 63% at $400{\mu}g/m{\ell}$ of Salicylic-KVARP, and the IC50 value was $253{\mu}g/m{\ell}$. In the DPPH assay, Caffeic-KVARP showed more than 95% antioxidant activity at $400{\mu}g/m{\ell}$ with high concentration and IC50 value was $31{\mu}g/m{\ell}$. The anti-inflammatory effect of Nitric Oxide inhibition was 67% at $400{\mu}g/m{\ell}$ of Lipoic-KVARP. Therefore, the four types of KVARP derivative that were synthesized from various experiments has shown that it could have potential to be used to develop new medicines, cosmetics as well as in various industries.

• Korean Journal of Plant Resources
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.107-121
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• 2023

This study analyzed the polyphenol, flavonoid contents, antioxidant activity, anti-aging activity and phenol component contents of Saccharina japonica (SJ), Costaria costata (CC) extracts with hot water, 95% methanol, 95% prethanol for investigating possible utilization of SJ and CC extracts. The result revealed that the SJ and CC methanol extracts showed the highest polyphenol and flavonoid contents, 4.63 mg TAN/g, and 4.19 mg QUE/g respectively. Also, the SJ and CC methanol extracts showed higher antioxidant activity than prethanol and hot water extracts, whereas the ABTS radical scavenging activities were the highest in prethanol extracts (IC₅₀ = 15.4, 10.3 ㎍/µL). In anti-aging activity for evaluating the anti-wrinkle activity and skin whitening activity, the CC methanol extracts had high collagenase inhibitory activity (88.3%), and the SJ prethanol extracts showed higher elastase inhibitory activity (19.0%) compared to other extracts. Then the tyrosinase inhibitory activity was significantly higher in the SJ and CC methanol extracts (41.8, 30.3%, respectively), whereas prethanol extracts were the lowest. To identify the phenol component contents of SJ and CC extracts, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, naringenin, naringin and nicotinic acid were measured using LC-MS/MS. As a result, the phenol contents were the highest in SJ methanol extract (4-hydroxybenzoic acid), SJ and CC prethanol extract (naringin and naringenin) and CC prethanol extract (nicotinic acid). Lastly, the antioxidant activity of SJ and CC showed high correlations with polyphenol and flavonoid contents (R = -0.946~0.883). These results suggest that prethanol or methanol extracts of SJ and CC have higher antioxidant activities, anti-aging activity and the potential to be used as material for health functional food and cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.46 no.1
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• pp.67-72
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• 2020

In this study, we attempted to obtain an active ingredient that inhibits the production of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) that breaks down collagen in human skin fibroblasts. More than 50 plant extracts were screened, and Lonicera japonica was selected for this study. The stem of L. japonica was extracted with 70% ethanol and fractions with solvents in the order of hexane, ethyl acetate, and butanol. MMP-1 production were significantly inhibited at the concentration of 50 ㎍/mL of the ethyl acetate layer and 200 ㎍/mL of the butanol layer. To get a fraction containing all of these effective components, 80% ethanol fraction (LJ F80) was obtained through HP20 resin column chromatography. The reference substance, loganin and LJ F80 inhibited dose-dependently MMP-1 production. At the same concentration, LJ F80 showed a higher inhibitory effect than loganin. The stability of this fraction was analyzed with HPLC while kept storing at 4 ℃, room temperature, and 40 ℃, for 16 week. The stability was maintained as ± 10% of initial value with reference loganin. Therefore, it is thought that LJ F80 of L. japonica may be used to improve wrinkles.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.259-268
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• 2008

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase and elastase and components of Castanea crenata leaf were investigated. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl radical, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$) of extract / fractions of Castanea crenata left was in the order: 50% ethanol extract ($13.6{\mu}g/mL$) < ethyl acetate fraction (6.2) < aglycone fraction (2.1). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$ of extract / fractions from Castanea crenata leaf extract / fractions on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The order of ROS scavenging activity was in the order: aglycone fraction (0.8) < 50% ethanol extract (0.5) < ethyl acetate fraction (0.3). The scavenging activity ($IC_{50}$ for ${O_2}^{{\cdot}\;-}$ (superoxide anion radical) generated by NBT method was in the order: ethyl acetate fraction (145.5) < aglycone fraction (65.5). The protective effects on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction exhibited the most prominent cellular protective effect (${\tau}_{50}$, $191.9{\pm}12.2\;min$ at $10{\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction ($9.1{\mu}g/mL$) on elastase was higher than oleanolic and ($13.7{\mu}g/mL$). And the inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction ($21.6{\mu}g/mL$) on tyrosinase was higher than arbutin ($226.2{\mu}g/mL$). But 50% ethanol extract rarely exhibited the inhibitory activity on tryosinase and elastase. Flavonoids were contained in Castanea crenata left (96.3 mg / 100 g dried Castanea crenata leaf). And flavonoids contained in ethyl acetate fraction were kaempferol, quercetin, quercitrin, and so on. Quercitrin is the most abundant component. These results indicate that extract / fractions of Castanea crenata can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging free radical and ROS, Castanea crenata leaf extract/ fractions could be used as new cosmeceutical for whitening and anti-wrinkle products.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.858-864
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• 2011

The phenolic compounds of walnut extracts by various solvents were shown to be 24.3 mg/g in hot water, 34.4 mg/g in ethanol, 32.5 mg/g in methanol and 15.1 mg/g in acetone. In a comparison of phenolic compounds from hot water and different concentrations of ethanol, which are harmless, 60% ethanol extract and hot water extract were 34.7 mg/g, 24.6 mg/g. The electron donating ability (EDA) of walnut extracts in hot water and 60% ethanol were 78.1% and 80.6%. According to ABTS radical cation decolorization for antioxidant activity, hot water and 60% ethanol extract showed high antioxidant activities of 98.1% and 98.3%. Antioxidant protection factor (PF) were $1.1{\pm}0.2$ PF and $1.1{\pm}0.4$ PF in hot water and 60% ethanol extract. In TBARs inhibitory activity, each extract showed high antioxidant activities at 60% and 75%. Anti-inflammation effects of walnut extract were tested, and inhibition of NO was 50% in 100 ${\mu}g/ml$ phenolics. Inhibitory activity against iNOS and COX-2 were shown, through Western blot, to be 10% in 100 ${\mu}g/ml$ phenolics. Tyrosine inhibitory activity of 60% ethanol extract was 43%, and astringent effect of 60% ethanol extract was 55%. These results suggest that walnut extracts are suitable for functional cosmetics requiring skin-whitening and anti-wrinkle activity.