• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.39 no.2
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• pp.149-158
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• 2013

L-ascorbic acid, the representative antioxidants, has a great effect on skin whitening, collagen synthesis, and anti-aging, but has low oxidative stability during storage. Therefore, in this study, thermal and oxidation properties of L-ascorbic acid under various storage conditions (powder, aqueous phase, changes of temperature, UV-irradiation, and inflow of external air etc.) were investigated. And the storage stability of ingredient was validated in the double-spaced pouch by analysing oxidation properties under each storage conditions (powder phase and blended with essence). In oder to analyze the thermal properties, TGA, DSC, and FT-IR analysis were carried out and UV-visible spectrophotometer & redox titration were used in parallel for oxidation property analyses. From the result of experiment, L-ascorbic acid was oxidized fast when it contained lots of metallic ion, hydroxy ion in aqueous solution under high temperature, UV-irradiation & inflow external air, whereas it was not oxidized for a long time when it was stored as pure powder although it has same condition as heating up, UV-irradiation & inflow external air. Based on this result, retention period of cosmetics which is using L-ascorbic acid, less stable material in oxidation can be innovatively increased when using double-spaced pouch that is designed and produced for separating storage of active ingredients.

• Journal of Chitin and Chitosan
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.262-266
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• 2018

Even though the saps have been consumed as beverage in Korea, however a little research has been conducted on the chemical composition. We determined free sugars, mineral in the sap from Juglans mandshurica Maxim. collected from BongHwa region. The contents of glucose, sucrose, and fructose in the sap from J. mandshurica were 0.15, 2.73, and 0.09%, respectively. The prominent minerals in the sap from J. mandshurica were calcium and potassium. The contents of Ca, K, Mg, Fe, and Mn of sap from J. mandshurica were 0.61, 0.57, 0.12, 0.002, and 0.014 ppm, respectively. The sap from J. mandshurica show inhibitory effect on elastase. And real-time RT-PCR showed that sap from J. mandshurica increased mRNA level of AQP3 and HAS2 gene and increased hyaluronic acid production in HaCaT cells. These results indicated that the sap from J. mandshurica can potentially be used for developing cosmetic ingredient for skin moisturizing and anti-aging.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.40 no.4
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• pp.423-430
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• 2014

In this study, the antioxidative effects for the extracts of purple sweet potato (Ipomoea batatas L. Lam.) were investigated. The purple sweet potato was extracted with 70% ethanol and the ethyl acetate fraction was obtained from the extracts. The yields of extract and ethyl acetate fraction were 39.2% and 3.49% per dried powder, respectively. To confirm the antioxidative effects of the extracts, free radical scavenging activities (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl), total antioxidant capacity by luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay and the protective effects against reactive oxygen species (ROS) in erythrocytes were measured. Free radical scavenging activities ($FSC_{50}$) of the 70% ethanol extract and ethyl acetate fraction were $90.16{\mu}g/mL$ and $7.69{\mu}g/mL$, respectively. The free radical scavenging activity of ethyl acetate fraction was higher than that of (+)-${\alpha}$-tocopherol ($8.98{\mu}g/mL$). Total antioxidant capacities ($OSC_{50}$) of the 70% ethanol extract and ethyl acetate fraction were $5.75{\mu}g/mL$ and $1.92{\mu}g/mL$, respectively. The capacity of ethyl acetate fraction was similar to L-ascorbic acid, known as a prominent water soluble antioxidant ($1.50{\mu}g/mL$). The cellular protective effects of the ethyl acetate fractions on the $^1O_2$-induced cellular damage of human erythrocytes were increased in a concentration dependent manner ($5{\sim}50{\mu}g/mL$). The ${\tau}_{50}$ value in $5{\mu}g/mL$ was 45.6 min which was higher than that of (+)-${\alpha}$-tocopherol in all concentrations. These results indicate that the ethyl acetate fraction of purple sweet potato (I. batatas) has the excellent antioxidative capacity and could be applicable to anti-aging cosmeceutical ingredients for skin aging inhibition.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.163-186
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• 2000

We have previously screened 150 medicinal plants on the inhibition of elastase and found a significant inhibitory effects of the extracts of Areca catechu L. on the aging and inflammation against the skin tissues. To isolate and identify the compounds having biological activity, we was further purified by each of the solvent fractions, silica gel column chromatography, preparative TLC and reversed-Phase HPLC. Peak in HPLC, which coincided with the inhibitory activity against elastase, was identified as Phenolic substance using various colorimetric methods, UV, and IR. $IC_{50}$/ values of phenolic substance purified from Areca catechu were 26.9 $\mu\textrm{g}$/$m\ell$ for porcine pancreatic elastase (PPE) and 60.8 $\mu\textrm{g}$/$m\ell$ for human neutrophil elastase (HNE). This Phenolic substance showed more potent activity than those of reference compounds, oleanolic acid (76.5 $\mu\textrm{g}$/$m\ell$ for PPE, 219.2 $\mu\textrm{g}$/$m\ell$ for HNE) and ursolic acid (31.0 $\mu\textrm{g}$/$m\ell$ for PPE, 118.6 $\mu\textrm{g}$/$m\ell$ for HNE). According to the Lineweaver-Burk Plots, the inhibition against both PPE and HNE by this phenolic substance was competitive with substrate. Phenolic substance from Areca catechu exhibited high free radical scavenging effect ($SC_{50}$/ : 6 $\mu\textrm{g}$/$m\ell$) and inhibited effectively hyaluronidase activity ($IC_{50}$/: 210 $\mu\textrm{g}$/$m\ell$). These results suggest that the Phenolic substance Purified from Areca catechu showed anti-aging effect by protecting connective tissue proteins.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.15-31
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• 2012

In our previous studies, the antioxidant, anti-aging, and antibacterial activities of Persicaria hydropipier L. extract, and the moisturizing effect of cream containing P. hydropipier extract were investigated. In this study, the cellular protective effects of P. hydropipier extract and isoquercitrin, main component from P. hydropipier in $^1O_2$-induced photohemolysis of human erythrocytes and ultraviolet B (UVB)-exposed HaCaT cells were investigated. Liposomes such as ethosome and elastic liposome for enhanced transdermal delivery were prepared. Size, loading efficiency, stability, and cumulative permeated amounts of ethosomes and elastic liposomes were evaluated. P. hydropipier extract and isoquercitrin showed more prominent cellular protective effect than (+)-${\alpha}$-tocopherol, known as lipid antioxidant at $5{\mu}g/mL$. P. hydropipier extract didn't show any characteristics of cytotoxicity at $50{\mu}g/mL$. When HaCaT cells were exposed to a single large dose ($400mJ/cm^2$) of UVB, the extract protected the cells against UVB radiation in a concentration dependent manner ($12.5{\sim}50{\mu}g/mL$). Cell viability of HaCaT cells exposed to UVB $400mJ/cm^2$ was increased by treatment with P. hydropipier extract or isoquercitrin from 36 % (cell viability of positve control groups) to 90 % (cell viability of P. hydropipier extract or isoquercitrin- treated groups). The size of 0.04 % P. hydropiper extract loaded ethosomes was 173.0 nm and the loading efficiency was 55.58 %. 0.04 % P. hydropiper extract loaded ethosomes were stable with as monodisperse particles for 1 week. The ethosome exhibited more skin permeability than general liposome and ethanol solution. The optimal ratio of lipid to surfactant ($Tego^{(R)}$ care 450) of 0.1 % P. hydropiper extract loaded elastic liposomes was observed to be 95 : 5. Vesicle size of 0.1 % P. hydropiper extract loaded elastic liposome was 176.5 nm. The deformability index of the elastic liposome was 16.4. The loading efficiency was 68.8 %. The elastic liposome containing P. hydropiper extract showed more skin permeability than liposome without surfactant ($Tego^{(R)}$ care 450).

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.454-464
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• 2018

Black soybeans are used as food sources as well as for traditional medicines because they contain an abundance of natural phenolic compounds. In this study, total phenolic contents (TPCs) of Korean black seed coat soybean varieties Socheongja (SCJ), Socheong 2 (SC2) and Cheongja 2 (CJ2) as well as their antioxidant capacities were investigated. Among them, TPCs were abundantly present in the order of CJ2$H_2O_2$-stimulated HaCaT human keratinocytes. Our results revealed that treatment with SCJ and SC2 prior to $H_2O_2$ exposure significantly increases the viability of HaCaT cells, indicating that the exposure of HaCaT cells to SCJ and SC2 conferred a protective effect against oxidative stress. SCJ and SC2 also effectively inhibited $H_2O_2$-induced apoptotic cell death through the blocking of mitochondrial dysfunction. SCJ and SC2 also attenuated the phosphorylation of Histone H2AX. Furthermore, they effectively induced the levels of thioredoxin reductase (TrxR) 1, a potent antioxidant enzyme, which is associated with the induction of nuclear transcription factor erythroid-2-like factor 2 (Nrf2); however, the protective effects of SCJ and SC2 were significantly reversed by Auranofin, a TrxR inhibitor. These results indicate that they have protective activity through the blocking of cellular damage related to oxidative stress via the Nrf2 signaling pathway. In conclusion, our study indicated that SCJ and SC2 might potentially serve as novel agents for the treatment and prevention of skin disorders caused by oxidative stress.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.333-340
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• 2015

This study is designed to analyze the effect of skincare using cosmetic containing ginseng extract, on improving quality of life (QOL) of healthy women, with blind testing. QOL is a concept that represents how one's disease or health condition can physically, psychologically, and socially influence his or her daily life. The study was conducted to assess the effect of a ginseng cosmetic preparation on quality of life (QOL) using the Skindex-16 score, stratified by blind versus non-blinded option. 45 healthy women aged between 30 and 49 years with no skin disease were recruited for this study. Volunteers were divided into two groups. Group A (n = 22) received anti-aging cream with ginseng extract in the original packaging, which included the brand name and logo. Group B (n = 23) received the same cream in a plain white jar without any package decoration or logo. Both groups used the cream for 8 weeks. For the skin-related QOL assessment, Skindex-16 was used at baseline, forth, and eighth week. All volunteers except two dropouts in Group A completed the dermatology-specific QOL measure, Skindex-16, at baseline, after 4 weeks, and after 8 weeks of treatment with the provided samples. As a result, the mean score of 43 participants at baseline was $22.70{\pm}4.82$. There was a significant difference between the baseline score and the score after 8 weeks in both groups: The scores changed from $23.30{\pm}5.14$ to $20.20{\pm}4.83$ in Group A, from $22.17{\pm}4.58$ to $20.52{\pm}3.60$ in Group B. The "Symptom" subscale of Skindex-16 improved after 4 weeks and the "Emotion" subscale improved after 8 weeks in Group A. The "Function" subscale did not show improvement in either groups. Both groups showed no interaction effect between follow up time and groups in Skindex-16 and subscale. This research opens up the possibility of skincare using ginseng cream having a positive effect on QOL in healthy women. Moreover, one can predict that skincare ritual itself may have greater impact on the improvement of QOL, compared to the product packaging.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.48 no.3
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• pp.189-196
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• 2022

Plasma refers to an ionized gas that is often referred to as "the fourth phase of matter", following solid, liquid, and gas. Plasma has traditionally been utilized for industrial applications such as welding and neon signs, but its promise in biomedical fields such as cancer treatment and dermatology has lately been recognized. Indeed, due to its beneficial effects in promoting collagen production, improving skin tone, and eliminating harmful bacteria in the skin, plasma treatment constitutes an important target for dermatological research. In this study, a plasma device for cosmetic manufacturing based on nitrogen, the main component of the atmosphere, was designed and assembled. Moreover, nitric oxide (NO) was selected since is easier to follow and evaluate than other nitrogen plasma active species, and its contents were measured to perform a quantitative and qualitative evaluation of plasma. First, an injection method, using different proximities labeled "sinking" and "non sinking" treatments, was performed to test the most efficient plasma treatment method. As a result, it was observed that the formulation obtained by a non sinking treatment was more effective. Furthermore, toner and ampoule were selected as cosmetics formulations, and the characteristics of the formulation and changes in the injected plasma state were observed. In both formulations, the successful injection of NO plasma was 2 times higher in toner formulation than ampoule formulation, and it gradually decreased with time, having dissipated after a week. It was confirmed that the nitrogen plasma used did not affect the stability of the toner and ampoule formulations at low temperature (4 ℃), room temperature (25 ℃), and high temperature (37 ℃ and 50 ℃) conditions. The results of this study demonstrate the potential of plasma cosmetics and highlight the importance of securing the stability of the injected plasma.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.42 no.3
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• pp.269-278
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• 2016

In searching for novel agents for skin anti-aging from natural resources, we found that the extract of the fruiting bodies of Ramaria formosa (R. formosa) had significant antioxidant and human neutrophil elastase (HNE) inhibitory activities. R. formosa extract exhibited a considerable DPPH radical scavenging activity with an antioxidant content of 117.0mg/mL (ascorbic acid equivalents) at the concentration of $500{\mu}g/mL$. The capacity of R. formosa extract to scavenge peroxy radicals measured by ORAC assay also showed dose-dependent antioxidant effect with $ORAC_{Roo}$ (trolox equivalents, $1{\mu}M$) values of 0.8, 5.2, and 7.8 at the concentrations of 1, 10, and $20{\mu}g/mL$. The cellular antioxidant capacity of R. formosa extract was investigated by assaying the cellular fluorescence intensity using dichlorodihydrofluorescein (DCF). The cellular oxidative stress induced by AAPH, $Cu^{2+}$ or $H_2O_2$ in HepG2 cells was significantly attenuated by more than 30% at $20{\mu}g/mL$ of R. formosa extract. HNE activity was reduced by treatment with R. formosa extract in a dose-dependent manner, and the $ED_{50}$ value for the ethanol extract of R. formosa was $42.9{\mu}g/mL$. R. formosa extract did not exhibited antimicrobial activity against four microorganisms including Bacillus subtilis (B. subtilis), Escherichia coli (E. coli), Candida albicans (C. albicans), Aspergillus oryzae (A. oryzae). Furthermore, the extract did not affect the inflammatory cytokine production of interleukin-10 and interferon-${\gamma}$ in NK92 cells. From the above results, we found that R. formosa extract has considerable antioxidant and elastase inhibitory effects, and does not stimulate immune cells. These findings suggest that R. formosa extract may be used as a bioactive component in cosmetic composition.