• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.19-25
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• 2019

Advanced glycation end products (AGEs) are final products formed by glycation reaction between reducing sugars and proteins, lipids or nucleic acids. These AGEs are related to progress of skin aging. In this study, we evaluate anti-aging activity of Defatted Torreya nucifera seed extract (DTSE) through antioxidant, anti-glycation, anti-elastase and inhibitory and breaking activity on the cross-linking of AGEs to collagen assay. Results showed that DTSE contained polyphenols and flavonoids. The $IC_{50}$ values of 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) free radical and 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS) radical scavenging activity were $16.4{\mu}g$ (Dried materials, DM)/mL and $16.7{\mu}g\;DM/mL$, respectively. DTSE also inhibited the formation of AGEs, elastase activity and cross-linking of AGEs to collagen as well as broke existing cross-linking of AGEs to collagen in a dose-dependent manner. Consequently, our findings suggest that DTSE could be useful as a cosmetic material with anti-aging activity.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.15 no.8
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• pp.5070-5077
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• 2014

Many countries in the world have protected their native plants and utilized them as industrial materials in each country. In this aspect, it is increasingly important to develop cosmetics materials using native plants in Korea. Cosmetic materials have been developed with niche plants, such as Campanula takesimana Nakai, Dianthus superbus, Aster spathulifolius in Ullengdo, in which a specific plant distribution by distinct climate and environment was present. Water and ethanol extractions were performed from the calluses of Campanula takesimana Nakai, Dianthus superbus, Aster spathulifolius. HPLC analysis revealed different compositions and functions of effective elements in each ethanol extract. For example, all types of ethanol extracts showed an ability to heal wounds. In particular, the expression of the inflammation-related gene, COX-2, was decreased in response to the ethanol extracts of Dianthus superbus. These results indicate that the ethanol extracts from niche plants' calluses in Ullengdo are natural and environmentally-friendly compounds, and can be used as medical supplies associated with anti-inflammation and wound healing.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.43 no.2
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• pp.93-102
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• 2017

In this study, various plant extracts were screened for the effective and safe skin care ingredient according to the antioxidant activity assay guidelines. We selected an optimized combination herbal extract, Charmzone extract (CZE), which composed of Nelumbo nucifera leaves, Saururus chinensis and Orostachys japonica. CZE exerted free radical scavenging activity. It reduced reactive oxygen species formation and increased total antioxidant capacities in human keratinocyte (HaCaT) and normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF). CZE also leaded procollagen type 1 secretion in NHDF and decreased cellular melanin contents in B16F10. The production of nitric oxide was decreased by CZE in lipopolysaccharide-stimulated RAW264.7 in a dose dependent manner. Therefore, it is concluded that CZE can be applied for naturally derived anti-aging functional skin care ingredient for anti-oxidation, wrinkle enhancement, whitening, anti-inflammation and wound healing of skin.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.15 no.8
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• pp.5393-5399
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• 2014

To examine the effects of a mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) mixture from microalgae, Chlamydomonas sp, on the anti-wrinkle activities, the expression levels of genes that are associated with skin aging, including type I procollagen, elastin and involucrin, were analyzed. Asterina 330+palythine (A+P) and shinorine+palythine (S+P) mixtures were purified from Chlamydomonas sp using the following steps: 80% methanolic extraction, column purification, and HPLC analysis. As a result of the MTT assay, A+P and S+P did not induce cellular cytotoxicity with up to 0.1 mg/mL of both MAAs. In addition, the treatment of UV-exposed fibroblasts with A+P (0.05 mg/mL) and S+P (0.01 mg/mL) increased the levels of the PCOLCE mRNAs by 2.7 and 3.6 fold compared to the control group, respectively, The levels of elastin gene expression were elevated 5.59 and 3.1 fold in the A+P and S+P treated (0.01 mg/mL) cells, respectively. In particular, at a concentration of 0.01 mg /mL, the A+P and S+P expression levels of Involucrin mRNAs were increased 3.5 and 2.5 fold in the UV-exposed cells compared to the control, respectively. In conclusion, the MAAs derived from Chlamydomonas sp can be utilized as functional cosmetic materials with anti-wrinkle effects on the skin.

• The Korean Journal of Physiology and Pharmacology
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.59-64
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• 2015

Retinyl palmitate (RP)-loaded pectinate micro- and nano-particles (PMP and PNP) were designed for stabilization of RP that is widely used as an anti-wrinkle agent in anti-aging cosmeceuticals. PMP/PNP were prepared with an ionotropic gelation method, and anti-oxidative activity of the particles was measured with a DPPH assay. The stability of RP in the particles along with pectin gel and ethanolic solution was then evaluated. In vitro release and skin permeation studies were performed using Franz diffusion cells. Distribution of RP in each skin tissue (stratum corneum, epidermis, and dermis) was also determined. PMP and PNP could be prepared with mean particle size diameters of $593{\sim}843{\mu}m$ (PMP) and 530 nm (i.e., $0.53{\mu}m$, PNP). Anti-oxidative activity of PNP was greater than PMP due largely to larger surface area available for PNP. The stability of RP in PMP and PNP was similar but much greater than RP in pectin bulk gels and ethanolic solution. PMP and PNP showed the abilities to constantly release RP and it could be permeated across the model artificial membrane and rat whole skin. RP was serially deposited throughout the skin layers. This study implies RP loaded PMP and PNP are expected to be advantageous for improved anti-wrinkle effects.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.135-140
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• 2004

Anti-skin aging agent could be have an inhibition effect of ROS production as well as fragmentation and change of collagen cross linkage in collagen molecule. For the monitoring of lipid peroxidation and collagen degradation, the skin of young and old rats were incised and observed 7 days. In the result, the wound closure was observed in the skin from 10 of 11 young rats and in 8 of 11 old rats. And the longer wound length but shorter wound closure, weaker collagen density and thicker epidermis were observed in old rats than in young rats. The level of hydroxyproline as a parameter of collagen synthesis and MDA as a parameter of lipid peroxidation was lower in old group than in young group. The cyst and lacuna between collagen bundle and fibroblast were observed in old rats in contrast to young rats. So that we propose that MDA and hydroxyproline could be used for monitoring of anti-skin aging agent.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.16 no.8
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• pp.5336-5342
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• 2015

Although demand for scar treatment has been rising as our quality of life is improved, most scar treatment products rely on importation. Enkephalin is one of the neuropeptides secreted from neuronal ends. As both skin and neuron are derived from the exoderm during the development process, skin cells express opioid receptors as neuronal cells do. Opioid receptors are categorized into three types, mu(m)-, delta(d)-, and kappa(k)- opioid receptors, all of which are directly involved in the wound healing process. In this study, enkephalin derivatives are synthesized by Alanin Scan and their efficacy was evaluated and compared. In vitro wound healing effects, stimulatory effects of collagen synthesis, and skin hydration effects were also evaluated and confirmed. Among Enkephalin derivatives, AS13 showed highest wound healing effect.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.39 no.4
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• pp.313-322
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• 2013

Ultraviolet irradiation in the cells and skin produces reactive oxygen species (ROS), which induces the synthesis of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) causing skin photoaging. Using the human dermal fibroblast (HDF), we investigated the antioxidative and anti-aging effects of the extracts from Talinum paniculatum. Talinum paniculatum leaf and stem extracts (LSE) showed free radical scavenging effect by 98.45% at 500 ${\mu}g/mL$ and superoxide radical scavenging effect by 97.01% at 500 ${\mu}g/mL$ in the xanthine/xanthine oxidase system. The photoprotective potential of LSE was tested in HDF exposed to ultraviolet irradiation. It was revealed that LSE had an inhibitory effect on MMP-1 expression in UVA-irradiated HDF without any significant cytotoxicity. The treatment of UVA-irradiated HDF with LSE resulted in dose-dependent decreases in the expression levels of MMP-1 mRNA and protein. Also, UVB-induced cytotoxicity and cell death were effectively suppressed by treatment of LSE. Additionally, the senescence-associated ${\beta}$- galactosidase (SA-${\beta}$-gal) activity was decreased in the presence of LSE. These results suggest that Talinum paniculatum leaf and stem extracts (LSE) may have anti-aging effects and can be used as new functional materials against oxidative stress-mediated skin damages.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.32 no.2 s.57
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• pp.75-79
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• 2006

In this study. we evaluated anti-aging activity of medical plants that protect the skin cell damage induced by UV irradiation. We have investigated diverse biological activities of Selaginella tamariscina as an anti-aging ingredient of cosmetics. S. tamariscina was found to show scavenging activities of radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) with the $IC_{50}$ values of $65.1{\mu}g/mL$ against 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical and $40.9 {\mu}g/mL$ against superoxide radicals in the xanthine/xanthine oxidase system, respectively. For testing intracellular ROS scavenging activity, the cultured human dermal fibroblasts were analyzed by increase in dichlorofluorescein (DCF) fluorescence upon exposure to UVB $20 mJ/cm^2$ after treatment of S. tamariscina. UVA-induced MMP-1 protein and mRNA expression in human dermal fibroblasts were reduced in a dose-dependent manner by S. tamariscina. Moreover, S. tamariscina inhibited MMP-2 (gelatinase) activity in UVA-irradiated human dermal fibroblasts assayed by zymography and semi-quantitative RT-PCR. Taken together, these results suggest that S. tamariscina may act as an anti-aging agent by Increasing collagen and preventing the skin cell damage induced by UV irradiation, and imply that S. tamariscina nay be useful as a new ingredient for anti-aging cosmetics.

• The Korean Journal of Food And Nutrition
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.568-572
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• 2001

To screen antioxidative and whitening effects of some medicinal plants, 70% ethanol extracts were tested for their electron donating abilities to DPPH ( ${\alpha}$, ${\alpha}$-diphenyl- ${\beta}$-picrylhydrazyl) and inhibitory activities against lipid peroxidation, and tyrosinase inhibition in vitro. The electron donating activities of 70% ethanol extracts at the concentration of 100 $\mu\textrm{g}$/ml were in the order of Forsythiae fructus > Polyporaceae > Glycyrrhizae radix > Schizandrae fructus > Ramulus mori > Carthami semen. The order was Forsythiae fructus > Carthami semen > Schizandrae fructus > Polyporaceae > Glycyrrhizae radix when tested at 10 $\mu\textrm{g}$/ml, indicating that the activities depend on the concentration. The electron donating activities of Forsythiae fructus and Carthami semen at the concentration of 1 $\mu\textrm{g}$/ml were 37% and 31% respectively. Lipid peroxidation inhibitory activities were in the order of Artemisia messerschimidtiana > Glycyrrhizae uadix > Rehmaniae radix > Ramulus mori. Tyrosinase inhibitory activities were in the order of Ramulus mori > Artemisia messerschimidtiana > Oyster mushroom. The results suggest that Forsythiae fructus, Artemisia messerschimidtiana and Ramulus mori could be used as materials for anti-skin aging functional cosmetics.