• 대한화장품학회:학술대회논문집
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• 대한화장품학회 2003년도 IFSCC Conference Proceeding Book II
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• pp.464-478
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• 2003

Free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) caused by UV exposure or other environmental facts play critical roles in cellular damage and aging. The extract of tinged autumnal leaves of maple tree(Acer palmatum) has proven to be a powerful antioxidant. The Acer palmatum extract is very effective on the stabilization of biological membranes( containing unsaturated fatty acid). We studied photoprotective effect of the extract against UVB-induced cytotoxicity in human keratinocytes. The extract improved cell viability comparing to control after UVB irradiation. In the determination test of pro inflammatory cytokines the extract decreased expression of interleukin 1 a and 6, which play an important role in inflammation and skin erythema caused by UV. We also studied property of varying cosmetic formulations on the percutaneous absorption of the extract. After 24 hour in vitro penetration study, the content of the extract was more highly detected in skin residue part. This result showed the extract had relatively high compatibility of skin in our emulsion system. On human skin, after appling the product containing the extract we obtained a good result of antiwrinkle effect by skin visiometer. In conclusion, the Acer palmatum extract is a photoprotective and very effective in stressed and aged skin care. And we can predict the extract mainly affects on the skin cell and tissue in our emulsion system.

• 생명과학회지
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• 제21권5호
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• pp.734-738
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• 2011

율피를 기능성 화장품 소재로 활용하기 위하여 주름개선, 미백 및 수렴효과를 검증하였다. 주름개선 효과를 검증하기 위하여 elastase 저해활성과 collagenase 저해활성을 측정하였다. Elastase 저해활성을 측정한 결과 율피 아세톤 추출물 100 ug/ml에서 51.0%의 효과를 나타내었으며, collagenase 저해활성을 측정한 결과 아세톤 및 에탄올 추출물이 50 ug/ml 에서 96.4%, 94.3%의 저해활성을 나타내었다. 미백효과를 확인하기 위하여 tyrosinase 저해활성을 측정한 결과 아세톤 및 에탄올 추출물이 열수 추출물보다 높은 Tyrosinase 저해활성을 나타내었으나 대조군으로 사용한 Vitamin C와 비교시 약 50%의 효과를 나타내었다. 이상의 결과로 미루어 보아 율피 추출물의 주름개선 효과가 높음을 확인할 수 있었고, 주름개선 기능성 화장품 소재로서의 가능성을 확인하였다.

• Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation
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• 제38권2호
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• pp.87-92
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• 2008

Wood vinegar is well known as a softening agent affecting on the stratum corneum that is easy to penetrate into the skin. In this study, we prepared mixed ursolic acid hydrogel with wood vinegar(1, 2, 5%) as a penetration enhancer. The accumulation of ursolic acid in the skin from hydrogels was evaluated in vitro hairless mouse skin and skin moisturizing effect of them was evaluated using the corneometer and the tewermeter. And the role of stratum corneum as a protective barrier was evaluated as well. The hydrogels were retained about 40% of water retention capacity 2hrs and had better effect on the stripped skin than full-thickness skin. The accumulation of ursolic acid through stripped skin from hydrogels with wood vinegar was not change compared to normal skin, which indicated the action site of wood vinegar and the accumulation site of ursolic acid would be stratum corneum. From these result, we could find wood vinegar seems to be a good enhancer for active materials with anti-wrinkle and anti aging effect such as ursolic acid, and can be a developed topical delivery system maintaining excellent water retention capacity.

• Biomolecules & Therapeutics
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.300-307
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• 2010

Photosensitized peroxidation of membrane lipids has been implicated in skin pathologies such as phototoxicity and premature aging. We have previously reported that syriacusin compounds isolated from Hibiscus Syriacus inhibited lipid peroxidation. Here, we investigated whether syriacusins could be effective inhibitor to skin aging using ultraviolet-irradiated human dermal fibroblast cells (HDFCs). Syriacusins A, B, and C inhibit the activity of human neutrophil elastase (HNE), a serine protease to degrade extracellular matrix (ECM) proteins including elastin, with $IC_{50}s$ of 8.0, 5.2, and $6.1\;{\mu}M$, respectively. No changes in cell viability were detected by syriacusins A and B in UV-B ($10\;mJ/cm^2$) irradiated HDFCs. Matrix metallo-proteinase (MMP)-1 expression in HDFCs was increased by UV-B irradiation. MMP-1 expression in UV-B irradiated HDFCs was decreased by $10\;{\mu}M$ and $20\;{\mu}M$ syriacusin A to 50% and 20% of untreated control, respectively. Syriacusin B treated with $20\;{\mu}M$ reduced MMP-1 expression in UV-B irradiated HDFCs to 60% of untreated control. Syriacusin A also inhibited MMP-2 expression accompanying the increase of type-I pro-collagen in UV-B irradiated HDFCs. These results demonstrate that syriacusin A could be a more effective compound to inhibit skin aging caused by UV irradiation. It suggests that syriacusins A and B might be developed as possible agents to treat or prevent skin aging.

• KSBB Journal
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• 제21권6호
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• pp.444-450
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• 2006

본 연구에서는 새로운 주름개선 소재로서 phytoestrogen의 일종인 lignans를 각각 함유하는 연교추출물을 추출 분리하여 노화와 관련된 생리활성 효과를 확인하였다. Arctigenin과 matairesinol을 각각 함유하는 연교추출물은 처리농도가 증가함에 따라 농도 의존적으로 DPPH와 superoxide radical에 대한 소거효과를 나타내었다. DPPH radical 소거효과에서 arctigenin-rich와 matairesinol-rich는 각각 $IC_{50}$ 값이 $5.747{\mu}g/ml,\;4.450\;{\mu}g/ml$를 나타내었으며, superoxide radical 소거효과에서는 각각 1.634 mg/m1, 542.428 mg/ml로 양성 대조군으로 사용한 BHT보다 우수한 항산화 효과를 보였다. Type I collagen 합성효과도 arctigenin 및 matairesinol을 각각 함유한 연교추출물 그리고 양성 대조군 vitamin C를 $100\;{\mu}g/ml$을 처리하였을 때 각각 10.5, 26.4, 15.7%의 합성율을 보임으로써 vitamin C와 유사하거나 우수한 효과를 나타내었다. 또한, UVA에 의해 발현이 증가되는 MMP-1의 발현저해 효과는 matairesinol을 함유한 연교추출물의 경우 oleanolic acid와 유사한 저해 효과를 보였다. Matairesinol을 함유한 연교추출물을 함유한 크림의 피부 주름개선 효과를 평가하기 위하여, 눈가 주름 부위의 제품 도포 후 피부 주름의 변화와 피부거침 개선 효과를 평가하였다. 연교추출물을 함유한 크림을 약 12주간 도포하였을 경우, 깊은 주름과 총 주름수의 감소효과를 관찰할 수 있었으며, 연교추출물 2%를 적용한 인체 안전성시험에서 무자극으로 판명 되 었다. 본 연구를 통하여 lignans를 각각 함유하는 연교추출물은 항산화 효과와 생체 단백질의 30%를 구성하는 collagen의 합성효과 및 UVA에 의한 MMP-1의 발현저해 효과를 보였다. 인체에 무자극성으로 제품에 적용시 관찰되는 피부 주름개선 효과는 lignans를 각각 함유한 연교추출물을 새로운 주름개선을 위한 천연소재로 이용될 수 있을 것으로 사료된다.

• 생약학회지
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• 제54권1호
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• pp.1-8
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• 2023

The skin is an important barrier that protects the body from harmful environments such as UV rays. When the skin is repeatedly stimulated, such as UV rays, ROS and pro-inflammatory cytokines are overproduced. As a result, the proteins and nucleic acids that make up the skin are damaged, and aging occurs. Esculetin is known to have anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and UV-induced MMP-1 inhibitory effects. However, the inhibitory effect of MMP-1 on TNF-α-induced fibroblasts is not known. Therefore, in this study, the MMP-1 inhibitory effect of esculetin was confirmed in TNF-α-induced fibroblasts. As a result of confirming the cytotoxicity of esculetin in Hs68 cells by MTT assay, there was no significant toxicity up to 200 µM. As a result of real-time PCR and ELISA, it was confirmed that esculetin inhibited the expression of MMP-1. Esculetin did not inhibit MAPK (ERK, JNK, p38) phosphorylation, but inhibited phosphorylation of the mTOR-p70S6k signaling pathway. In addition, it was confirmed that the phosphorylation of the transcription factor NF-κB was inhibited. These results suggest that esculetin has potential as an anti-aging material.

• 한국축산식품학회지
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• 제34권1호
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• pp.26-32
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• 2014

This study was conducted to examine the effects of eggshell membrane hydrolysates (ESMH) on the anti-inflammatory, anti-wrinkle, anti-microbial activity, and moisture-protection for cosmetic use. Whole ESMH (before fractionation), and fraction I (>10 kDa), fraction II (3-10 kDa), and fraction III (<3 kDa) of the hydrolysates were assessed in this experiment. As lipopolysaccharide (LPS) and IFN-${\gamma}$ caused the inflammation on Raw264.7 cell, whole ESMH and fraction I showed to be effective in inhibiting the induction of cell inflammation depending on the concentration, and also showed outstanding effect to suppress the skin inflammation. Fraction I inhibited collagenase and elastase activities to a greater extent than the other fractions, while all fractions had antibiotic effects at concentrations of 10 mg/disc and 20 mg/disc. In addition, it showed the moisture protection effects of skin on the holding amount and losing amount of moisture in upper-inner arm of the human body with a relatively low loss rate in skin, which confirmed that the hydrolyzed fractions of ESM helps to form the superior protective layer of moisture. It was concluded that ESMH fractions with different molecular weights, especially the 10 kDa fraction, have anti-lipopolysaccharide, anti-IFN-${\gamma}$-induced inflammation, anti-collagenase and elastase activities, and thus can be used as a cosmetic agent to protect skin.

• Biomolecules & Therapeutics
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.35-40
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• 2014

Resveratrol is a polyphenolic compound found in various natural products such as grapes and berries and possesses anti-cancer, anti-hyperlipidemia, and anti-aging properties. Recently, it has been reported that resveratrol inhibits ${\alpha}$-melanocyte-stimulating hormone signaling, viability, and migration in melanoma cells. However, these effects have not been confirmed in vivo, specifically brownish guinea pigs. To evaluate the potential of resveratrol as a regulator of melanin for hyperpigmentation therapy, the influence of resveratrol on pigmentation was investigated by ultraviolet B-induced hyperpigmentation in brownish guinea pig skin. We found that resveratrol reduced the expression of melanogenesis-related proteins tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related proteins 1 and 2, and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor in melanoma cells. Furthermore, topical application of resveratrol was demonstrated to significantly decrease hyperpigmentation on ultraviolet B-stimulated guinea pig skin in vivo. Based on our histological data, resveratrol inhibits melanin synthesis via a reduction in tyrosinase-related protein 2 among the melanogenic enzymes. This study is the first to provide evidence supporting resveratrol as a depigmentation agent, along with further clinical investigation of resveratrol in ultraviolet B-induced skin disorders such as hyperpigmentation and skin photoaging.

• Toxicological Research
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• 제28권2호
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• pp.113-116
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• 2012

Various kinds of positive effects of green tea extracts had been studied for long time which included anti-inflammation, anti-aging, and cardiometabolic effects. Although topical steroid and non-steroidal calcineurin inhibitors may control clinical symptoms of allergic contact dermatitis, some of patients also present allergic reaction to these topical agents. Therefore, we have tried green tea extracts for managing this skin disorder with expectation of anti-inflammatory effect without potential side effects including skin irritation and toxic responses. The toxicity test of green tea extract also did not show any sign of irritation in the skin throughout the test period. Moderate severity of allergic contact dermatitis presented satisfactory clinical outcome at second week follow-up which was final visit of outpatient. This result mean that green tea extract has a positive effect for managing allergic contact dermatitis but its potency and efficacy seem to be so not strong enough to control moderate severity allergy skin lesion. In this pilot study, we were able to conclude that green tea cell extracts might be applied for potential anti-inflammatory soaking without skin toxicity.

• 한국의사학회지
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• 제31권2호
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• pp.63-72
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• 2018

As Korea's representative medical text, "Donguibogam" reveals Korean Medicine's unique perspective on the human body. The text also contains abundant resources related to skin, leading to diverse researches on the subject today. In this paper, authors tried to elicit values of "Donguibogam" in the general cosmetics field, through literature review. First, prescriptions related to main functions of modern cosmetics (anti-aging, whitening, and moisturizing) were classified. In relation to anti-aging, concepts such as 返老 (reversing aging), 還童 (to become young again), 皺 (wrinkle), and 皮急 (tense skin) were extracted and 69 examples of treatments were introduced. For whitening care, 41 treatments were mentioned on hyper-pigmentation and general complexion. Concepts related to moisturizing included expressions such as 潤肌膚 (hydration of skin) and 光澤 (glow), induced by 48 treatment prescriptions. Second, cosmetics related prescriptions were classified according to the application methods of modern cosmetics. 78 prescriptions of cleansing category included washing-off local area with herbal liquid, bathing, washing-off after steaming, and soaking the body in the herbal liquid. Total of 308 topical application prescriptions covered the conditions of various skin inflammations, scalp illnesses, and etc. In conclusion, this research examines the value of "Donguibogam" as a useful of skincare. Further studies are expected to extend our understanding of the field.