• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.149-158
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• 2005

These Study for meaning of Skirt Exhibition of Prada who has originality about minimalism, anti design. Her special characteristics of modern design world is very trendy. The latest trend which is deconstruction, nonos tribe, techno-functional of Prada style showed her exhibition. It was very meaningful about Prada fashion and modern design and culture. The various fused fashion items and genres are normally observed in the skirt exhibition. Besides interpretation of light and movement, novelty of modern design would be guided to the exit of modern culture and art, which haver to answer to th e continuous questions.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.63-74
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• 2017

This study aims to contribute to the development of male incontinence underwear with an anti-aging effect that meets customer requirements by examining the types, sorts, sizes and specifications of male incontinence underwear currently sold on the market. The results of an analysis of a total of eight commercial products are as follows. 1) Among the samples, six types of incontinence underwear were of a pull-on style like regular underwear; two types were of a pad insertion style. With respect to the underwear design, four (50%) types of incontinence underwear were brief style. The rest were drawers (3, 37.5%). Only one was of a trunk (12.5%) style. 2) With respect to size, the percentage of Size 3 was 50%, followed by Size 4 (50%). Most of the size of the underwear uses hip measurement whereas Japanese products (3, 37.5 %) use waist circumference. 3) With respect to the materials of the incontinence underwear, natural fibers such as cotton were mostly used and a polyurethane or polyester was mixed to enhance the wearing sensation and stretchability of the underwear. Finally, for the structure of the pad area, a napping finish was the largest (3, 37.5%), single knit 2(25%), twill weave 2(25%), and rib weave 1.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.23-35
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• 2015

In this study, the effect of shrink-resist treatment agent on the wool finishing, specifically anti-felting of wool product was studied. We aimed at providing preliminary data leading to the diversification of high-value added fashionable wool product. Two type of wool fabrics, dense and sheer, were employed. The fabric specimens were treated with solutions of shrink-resist treatment agent with wet pick-up rate 110%, 130%, and 150%, respectively, by using a padding mangle. The solution treated fabric specimens were then dried at room temperature first, at $90^{\circ}C$ for 15 minutes in a drying oven, and finally cured at $130^{\circ}C$ for 3 minutes. Cured wool fabric specimens were then subjected to a felting process. The physical and mechanical properties, including shrinkage rate along warp/filling direction, thickness at specified measurement pressure, drape stiffness, and air-permeability, were analyzed. After felting process, the shrinkage rates of wool fabric specimens, treated with shrink-resist treatment agent, were lower than those of control wool fabric specimens. The stiffness values of wool fabric specimens measured by using Flexometer were increased.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.387-410
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to approach to the internal meanings included in the Happening and the culture of hippies, by analysing the basic mental conditions in the process of the Happening. And this study was composed of the concept and the development of Happening, the characteristics of the hippies that related in the midst of the happening's background, and the formativeness between these factors and hippies'fashion. Since the happening a genre of fine arts expression attended the New School for social research in New York in 1954, Allan Kaprow direct-influenced by John Cage used the word 'Hapening'first, practicing '18 Happenings in 6 parts'at the Rueben gallery in 1959. Kaprow's 18 Happenings was one of the earliest opportunities for a wider public to attend the live events that several artists had performed more privately for various friends. Despite the very different sensibilities and structures of artist's works, artists were all thrown together by the press under the general heading of 'Happening', following Kaprow's 18 Happenings. Being considered as the root of the Happening 'Expression of Sound'of John Cage was the discovery of the exisiting thing- the Happening. Most artists were to be deeply influenced by Cage's theories and attitudes-that is, his sympathy for Zen Buddihism and oriental philosophy-and by reports of the Black Mountain events. These events would directly reflect contemporary painting and stemmed from the Futurists, Dadaists and Surrealists. And Happening's development background was based on the culture of hippies. Swinging London had been under the sway of psychedelic drugs and utopian visions of 'hippie'wave sweeping in from Califonia. This wave, which affected solid middle-class youth first and formost, began in Haight Ashbury in San Francisco. Without dwelling on the hippie movement here, it is worth nothing that it resulted from the convergence of several undercurrents : consciousness-expending drugs, the anti-Vietnam war developments, the impact of English pop groups on American music and the rise of protest songs, and finally the beatnik tradition of non-conformism. Hippie culture and its pursuit of love, peace and psychedelia was the antitheses of 1960s main street fashion. The media gave everyone with long hair the label of 'hippie', but it was always a very loose collage of attitudes and styles. The rejection of sexual taboos was conveyed by the hippie's refusal to wear. Although the bold exposure of body raised controversies because it went against the existing moral values, it has a significant implications. Psychedelics brought mind-expansion and the possibillity that modern technology (light show, synthesized electronic sounds), new fabrics or colors, and LSD could be utilized to provide an escape route from the dreariness of modern life. During the 1960s, traditional costumes, many of which had never been seen outside their native regions, became sought after and adopted in the West, initially by the young, who wanted to demonstrate their solidarity with cultures uncontaminated by mass industry. The most ardent proponents of such folk costumes were the hippies. Hippies dress was sometimes decribed as 'anti-fashion', produced by a patchwork of ragged cast-offs and flamboyant accessories, of outmoded Western dress and time-honored ethnic garments all combined, modified and permutated into variety of personal statements. 'Flower Power'became a reality. From the results of this study, we can see the expanding trend of the influence and the concept of the sew art genre 'Happening'in the formativeness as well as the fine arts field.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.63-83
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• 2011

This study aims to prove the changes, development and social background of Korean male cosmetics over the period of 2000-2010. There were total 574 articles written about male make-up and cosmetics in Chosun Daily, Joongang Daily and Donga Daily, which are the top three Korean local daily newspapers in terms of sales revenue for that period. These articles were analyzed together with social background research from various books and daily newspapers. The analysis of articles was divided into different categories; such as foundation cosmetics, color cosmetics, hair, and the social background. It was found that the articles related to foundation cosmetics were written the most, the articles related to male appearance management were second, articles on other items including how to manage the skin being the least. As for the social background of Korean male cosmetics, first of all, a change in social recognition can be pointed out. The traditional understanding of gender roles has changed, men's appearance management has started to be regarded as a competitive talent, and at the same time, the esthetic viewpoint for men also has changed. One example is the newly made popular term, "flower-handsome man", which shows the new trend of favoring males with nice skin. Second, the expansion of mass culture can be pointed out. As consumers can get information and fashion trends easier and faster, the fashion spreads fast, and this has led to the generalization and popularization of the sense of beauty. Third, the development of scientific technology and medical science can be pointed out. Thanks to the progress in those areas. the extension of youthfulness has become possible and the cosmetics industry was also affected greatly, as shown in the market spread of functional products for anti-ageing and wrinkle control as the interest in anti-ageing has grown. There are benefits from the development of scientific technology, but the problem of environmental pollution has appeared due to machinery and industrialization and thus the issue of well-being has been raised. Rising interest in naturalism, pro-environmentalism and organic cosmetics has influenced the cosmetics industry. In addition, the quantity of ultraviolet rays exposed to our skin has increased due to the air pollution caused by the destruction of environment, leading to increased usage of sun block lotion. Lastly, the influence of consumer society and the expansion of consumerism culture can be pointed out. In the modern society, consumption acts not only as the use of products and services but it also has an important role of mediating individuals with others and the society. The market for male cosmetics has been expanding and the number of men putting on make-up has been increasing rapidly. Therefore, this study is meaningful in that the analysis of the mode of change and the social background are an essential process in order to provide a direction for the future market for male cosmetics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.37
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• pp.71-88
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• 1998

This study will analyze the aesthetic qual-ities revealed in the work of Vivienne Wes-twood in order to gain an understanding of the development process and uniqueness of modern avant-garde fashion. Westwood gained worldwide recognition in the 1970s as the Punk movement emerged in London. Although her works have often been described as decadent and anti-establishment, her anarchic view of fashion has had a considerable influence on other designers, both in England and around the world. Vivienne Westwood's works can be divided into three periods. In the first period(1971∼78). Westwood design demonstrated elements which were variations of the subcultural Punk style. The noteworthy designs of this period included ripped T-shirts, bondage clothes, and fetishist accoutrements. In the second period(1979∼83), her designs expressed elements from ethnic and primitive tribal societies through the 'Pirate', 'Savages', 'Buffalo Girls', 'Witches' collections, which inspired New Romanticism movement. In the third period (1985∼ ), through works such as 'Mini-Crini'collection, her works identified elements from the old west and used materials such as crinoline and Harris tweed and contemporized them by rearranging the innovative technique. In the end the news synthesis helped formulate new ideas. The aesthetic qualities in Vivienne Wes-twood's works can bed identified with the following themes : Punkature, Erotic Intelligent-sia, Anarchic Collage. First, within Punkature, Westwood's ideas are at the forefront as her impact on the cut of clothes and creative detailing have been considerable. Also, while her ideas can be extreme, her clothes are wear-able, resulting in the synthesis of Punk and couture. Second, as Erotic Intelligentsia, Vivienne Westwood does not present sexuality as a straight forward attribute that fashion so often tends to do, but instead as a matter for inquiry, exploration and debate. She asserts that sexuality is always an interplay between the polarities of masculine and feminine, of dress and undress. Third, as Anarchic Collage, she has taken, juxtaposed, and transformed objects and symbols from dominant culture, like every modern subversive movement from Dada to Punk. She has continued this form of anarchic collage, mixing styles from various times and places, taking them out of their traditional context. From thiss viewpoint, Vivienne Westwood's works can be considered to be made up of past themes merged with is contemporary. The usage of contrasting elements such as Punk and couture to communicate her ideas visually or technically.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.552-559
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• 2008

Recent days, various inner wears, sheets and interior goods are manufactured using materials dyed with loess emphasizing its improved blood circulation, metabolism, anti-bacterial, deodorizing properties, and far-infrared ray emissions. The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of chitosan treatment on the dyeing of cotton fabric using loess as colorants. Particle size of loess, the morphology and dyeability(K/S) of chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics, and washing durability of loess dyed cotton fabric were investigated. In this study, cotton fabrics were treated with a crosslinking agent, epichlorohydrin, in the presence of chitosan to improve the dyeing properties of cotton fabrics with natural dye by the chemical linking of chitosan to the cellulose structure. This process was applied by means of the conventional mercerizing process. The results obtained were as follows; Mean average diameter of loess was $1.13{\mu}m$. According to various conditions, the optimum dyeing conditions for cotton fabrics pretreated by 1% chitosan treatment was where 10%(owb) of loess was applied at $90^{\circ}C$ for 120minutes, while for cotton fabrics without chitosan treatment was where 15%(owb) of loess was applied at $90^{\circ}C$ for 150minutes. Overall, K/S value of loess dyed cotton fabric pretreated with 1% chitosan was higher than that of cotton fabrics without chitosan treatment. The Color fastness, washing fastness and light fastness of loess were excellent as 4-5grade.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.43-59
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• 2010

In the first half of 20th century, there was an abrupt change in society and social values. Therefore, a demand for functional women's sportswear started to increase. This paper has attempted to investigate the impact of functionalism on women's sportswear in the first half of the 20th century. The following results were obtained: First, anti-tradition was observed. There was a tendency to be separated from the past and against tradition. It was tried to pursue freedom, getting away from corset and petticoat. Second, structural functions were targeted. In other words, precise and efficient shapes and simple silhouette and line were emphasized. Third, fitness of purpose was found. More liberal and comfortable design has been targeted. That's why a variety of functional pants have been designed instead of skirts. Fourth, utility and practicality were found. Elastic fabrics such as wool and jersey and sweater have commonly used in sportswear. A variety of new fabrics have been used and details such as flare, slit and pleats have been designed. Lastly, non-ornamentality was found. The beauty of simple shape was pursued by omitting details or eliminating unnecessary ornaments. Monochrome and dark color were preferred and a use of accessories has declined. The result of this paper could be used in establishing a theoretical framework on the impact on social change, values and art and helpful In modern women's sportswear design and marketing which have become more important.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.731-739
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• 2004

As the life styles have been changed in modern society and sports gave been emphasized for spending spare time and improving health condition, sports are regarded to lave a leading role to fashion as one of the prominent factors. This study is to analyze the gender-identity and how different levels of involvement in In-line skating affects clothing interests. 291 In-line skaters ranged in age from middle twenties to middle thirties were surveyed and measured for this study. MANOVA(multivariate analysis of variance), ANOVA(univariate analysis of variance), Cronbach ${\alpha}$ reliability, t-test, and correlation analysis were performed with SPSS 10.0 program on the selected data. The results of this study are as follow. There were no obvious differences in In-line skating clothing interests by gender of In-line skaters. There were, however, differences in the reasons for In-line skating, the hours to skate per week. Those whose purpose for skating was diet had more interest in style focused on expression. In case of skating for health, they showed interest in activity-functionality style and anti-deviation style. The group of In-line skaters who skated 15 to 18 per week gave more interest in activity-functionality style out of the clothing interest-factors. Those who had strong masculinity in gender-identity of In-line skaters were more involved in In-line skating. There were some differences in clothing interests according to gender-identity of In-line skaters. In regard of In-line skating clothing interest by involvement in In-line skating, those who had higher involvement in In-line skating had higher In-line skating clothing interest.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.21-30
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to research the symbolistic values of western beards' style in the twentieth century. Namely, it is to consider the relationship between social-cultural factors and aesthetic meanings of western beards' style. The contents are, firstly, studying the conception and the types of beard. A beard is the hair that grows on a person's chin, cheeks, neck, and the area above the upper lip. At the World Beard & Moustache Championships, there are moustache category (natural, english, hungarian, dali, fu manchu, freestyle), beard category (natural, musketeer, goatee, sideburns, freestyle), and full beard category (natural, garibaldi, verdi, van dyck, freestyle), Secondly, this paper is continued by researching the history of beard from the ancient to the present day, and thirdly, analyzing political dictatorship, social resistance and expression of personality, religious dignity, related with the change of world situation, the formation of postmodern anti-culture and pop-culture, and the coexistence of traditional culture. There are long and bushy full beards in some religions like Hinduism, Judaism and Islam. The meanings of their beards are purity, life and holiness. The beards of some politicians symbolize dictatorship. Namely, the chaplin of Hitler, the moustache of Hussein and the musketeer of Castro express strong power and charisma. In 1950s'-70s' subcultures, Hipsters' goatee, Bikers' horseshoe, Beat generations' goatee and Hippies' natural represent the lack of adaptability and social resistance. Also, the celebrities and artists like Ronald Colman, Clark Gable, Don Johnson, George Clooney, and Salvador Dali express freedom, personality, and taste with beards. For that matter, the symbolistic values of beards' style in the twentieth century are the religious dignity, the political dictatorship, the social resistance and the expression of personality. Today the beards' style is one of fashion items as well as a symbol of masculinity, customs and classes.