• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.952-959
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• 2012

This study looks into the changes in collar patterns in tailored jackets with different numbers of buttons. The study discusses the pattern design method of tailored colors in 4 different styles, such as the effect of the number of buttons of tailored jackets on collar width and length, lapel width and length, and angle of lapel and overall balance in design. Through the first dress experiment, patterns were adjusted and corrected. The second dress experiment was conducted with the modified experimental clothes. The results of comparison and analysis are as follows. The 1 button tailored jacket was most preferred for its beautiful expression and overall balance of upper color and lapel when its lapel width was 7.5 cm. The second most preferred one was the 2 button tailored jacket with lapel width of 8 cm, and the 3 button jacket showed relatively good balance when its lapel width was 7.5 cm. The 4 button tailored jacket showed a bad balance in collar and button. Also, its overall silhouette was disappointing and thus was less preferred than others. For smaller number of buttons, the angle of lapel's break line increased, thus displaying a more refined and slim silhouette. On the other hand, the angle of lapel's break line decreased for greater number of buttons, thus displaying a dull and fat image. As a result, the jacket with many buttons was less preferred.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.947-954
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• 2008

The purpose of this research is to find out related factors to obtain the best collar pattern of the women's tailored jacket by analyzing the difference of the shapes between the drafted pattern and that of being stitched. The experimental conditions established are as follows. The position and angle of its break point, the notch and the width of the collar and lapel are kept unchanged. The collar decrease in neckline edge and the top collar larger than the under collar. The crossing point of gorge line is changed to make the collar's roll line straight. When the pattern is changed to make the outline of the lapel straight, the amount of cloth is changed too. According to the experimental conditions, The experimental clothes using muslin were made to. put on the manikin and the suitable methods of making the collar pattern were decided. In order to find out the influence of fabric materials on the jacket' shapes, Three kinds of wool fabrics were used and the results were evaluated. Summary of the research is as follows. When 0.5cm of the neckline edge is shortened, the standing part of the collar has less wrinkles, and its position looks natural and lastly, the material has slightly affected the collar's condition. It is desirable to make the top collar 0.2cm longer than the under collar. But the length should be different according to the fabric material. It it is thick cloth, the length has to be extended. To make the roll line straight, 0.4cm of the crossing point of gorge line should be corrected. The thick cloth needs more correction. To make the lapel's outline straight, it needs outwardly round 0.2cm more and materials make little difference to affect the shape.

• Korean Journal of Applied Biomechanics
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.63-87
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to analyze the kinematic variables when Uchi-mata(inner thigh reaping throw) performing by Kumi-kata(engagement position, basic hold) types A, B(A: grasping part-behind neck lapel, B: chest lapel) in Judo with three dimensional analysis technique DLT method by videography. The subjects were four male judokas who have been training in Yong-In University(YIU), on Korean Representative level and Uchi-mata is their tokui-nage(favorite technique), the throwing form was filmed on two S-VHS 16mm video camera( 30frame/sec. Panasonic). Kinematic variables were temporal, posture, and COG. The data collection was performing by Uchi-mata. Six good trials were collected for each condition (type A, B) among over 10 trials. The mean values and the standard deviation for each variable were obtained and used as basic factors for examining characteristics of Uchi-mata by Kumi-kata types. The results of this analysis were as follows : 1) Temporal variables The total time elapsed(TE) by Uchi-mata of types A, B were 1.45, 1.56 sec. respectively. Types A shorter than B. 2) Posture variables In performing of Uchi-mata, the range of flexion in type A, left elbow was $45^{\circ}$ and B was $89^{\circ}$ from Event 2(E2) to Event 6(E6). Type A and B were quite different in right elbow angle in Event1(E1). Left shoulder angle of type A was extended and type B was flexed in E4. Both types right shoulder angles were showed similar pattern. Also both hip angles(right/left) were showed similar pattern. When type A performed Uchi-mata the knee-angle of supporting foot showed $142^{\circ}$in the 1st stage of kake phase[KP], and extended to $147^{\circ}$in the 2nd stage of KP. And the foot-ankle angle of supporting foot showed $83^{\circ}$in the 1st stage of KP, and extended to $86^{\circ}$in the 2nd stage of KP. moreover, The knee angle of attacking foot showed $126^{\circ}$in the 1st stage of KP, and extended to $132^{\circ}$in the 2nd stage of KP, and the foot-ankle angle of attacking foot showed $106^{\circ}$in the 1st stage of KP, and extended to $121^{\circ}$in the 2nd stage of KP. When type B performed Uchi-mata the knee-angle of supporting foot showed $144^{\circ}$in the 1st stage of KP, and extended to $154^{\circ}$in the 2nd stage of KP. And the foot-ankle angle of supporting foot showed $83^{\circ}$in the 1st stage of KP, and extended to $92^{\circ}$in the 2nd stage of KP. moreover, The knee angle of attacking foot showed $132^{\circ}$in the 1st stage of KP, and extended to $140^{\circ}$in the 2nd stage of KP, and the foot-ankle angle of attacking foot showed $103^{\circ}$in the 1st stage of KP, and extended to $115^{\circ}$in the 2nd stage of KP. During Uchi-mata performing, type A showed pulling pattern and type B showed lift-pulling pattern. As Kumi-kata types, it were different to upper body(elbow, shoulder angle), but mostly similar to lower body(hip, knee, ankle angle) on both types. 3) C. O. G. variables When the subjects performed Uchi-mata, COG of type A, B up and down in vertical aspect was 71cm, 73.8cm in height from the foot in the 2nd stage of KP. As Kumi-kata types, it were different on medial-lateral direction aspect but weren't different in Kuzushi phase on vertical direction aspect.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.3
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• pp.77-92
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• 2014

The purpose of this research is to examine the expression methods of Haute Couture designers' high value-added jacket designs, In order to achieve this, the positions and sizes of the design component items of tailored jackets designed by Haute Couture designers from the 1940s to the 1970s were analyzed. The results of the analysis are as follows. First, the silhouette changed while leading the contemporaneous fashions, and such changes could be confirmed by the width and length of the jacket's shoulder, chest, waist, and hem that determine the silhouette. Particularly, the length of the chest changed which signifies that the depth of the armhole was playing an important role in the production of high value-added jackets in relation to the sleeves and the fit of jackets. Second, the position and the size of the dart are the components that can express the fit of a jacket and the designer's creativity, The starting point position of the dart and the position passing by waist, and the position of the end of the dart were placed in the position beyond B.P. depending on the designer's creativity and techniques, deriving the changes of the silhouette and creating high value-added jackets. Third, the tailored collar, which was a three-dimensional component made up of the upper collar, gorge line, lapel, and break line, was an important component that could express high value-added jackets. Changes in the width and the height of the break line position of the sides of the neck were represented as changes in the neck size of the collar, and changes in the vertex locations of the upper collar corner-point, the gorge line (the corner-point of the lapel and V zone) were also represented as diverse tailored collar designs. And the differences in the width and the length of each component of the collar were related to each other and represented as changes in the slope and angle of the collar outline. Fourth, the changes in sleeve designs of the jacket were in such items as the width of the sleeve opening, the width of the sleeve hem, and the length of the sleeve, and were represented as diverse sleeve designs such as widened sleeve opening types, and straight line types.

• Korean Journal of Applied Biomechanics
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.143-157
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• 2002

This study was to analyze the kinematic variables when the subjects performing Uchi-mata(inner thigh reaping throw) by Kumi-kata types((How to grasp A or B?) and two different opponent's height in Judo. Kinematic variables were temporal, posture. Data analysis was collective comparison of two-way ANOVA, t-test by type A&B and two different opponent's height. There were significant difference of Kumi-kata types(p<.05) in the time elapsed on Kake phase(KP : throwing phase) and hip, knee, ankle-angle of the attacking foot in the 1st stage of KP and knee, ankle-angle of the attacking foot and hip, knee ankle-angle of the supporting foot in the 2nd stage of KP. There were significant difference of two opponent's(p<.05) in the time elapsed on KP and hip-angle of the supporting foot in 1st stage of KP. Therefore, the interaction effect(p<.05) were in the time elapsed on KP and hip-angle of the supporting foot in the 2nd stage of KP. So, It could be suggested that Judoka hold on the part-behind neck lapel(type A) at the sleeve with the other of Judogi jacked when opponent's height was short. Because the time elapsed on KP of type B was not so fast as type A(p<.05) during performed Uchi-mata, and also the bigger hip-angle of the supporting foot in the 2nd stage of KP grew, the faster the time elapsed on KP became.