• Title/Summary/Keyword: ancient cookbook

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Introduction and Interpretation of the 19th-century Jeollanam-do Cookbook 『Hasimdangga Umsikbeop (下心堂家 飮食法)』 (19세기 호남 조리서 『하심당가 음식법』 소개와 해석)

  • Chae-Lin Park
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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    • v.39 no.2
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    • pp.83-95
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    • 2024
  • 『Hasimdangga Eumsikbeop』 is the second cookbook discovered in the Honam region. It is believed to have been copied by Hong Ju-song between the late 1800s and early 1900s, and excluding the missing parts, it contains a total of 14 items, including 7 liquor items and 7 general food items. Judging from the proofreading marks, it was not considered a complete creation. However, it was confirmed that the book was not influenced by existing ancient cookbooks from the Seoul-Gyeonggi, Chungcheong, and Yeongnam areas. Therefore, it is highly likely that the book was based on an undiscovered recipe book from an ancient family. It is valuable as a basis for comparative research on regional food culture in the traditional era in that the manufacturing methods, ingredient quantities, and description methods are different from existing cookbooks in many ways and contain unique terminologies and regional dialects.

Significance and Content of 「Bongjeopyoram」 Based on the Cookbook of Jongga in Hangeul (한글 종가 조리서로 추측되는 「봉접요람」의 의미와 내용)

  • Han, Bok-Ryo;Chung, Hae-Kyung;Chung, Lana;Lee, So-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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    • v.32 no.6
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    • pp.498-512
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    • 2017
  • The aim of this study was to introduce the foods recorded in "Bongjeopyoram", a cookbook, of which the date of production and author are unknown. This was described in an old document belonging to the Hansan Lee family clan from Chungcheongnam-do and revealed its content and significance in the food culture history of Korea to academia for the first time, A close examination of "Bongjeopyoram" showed that, as with other cookbooks from the Joseon Dynasty, it started with methods of making alcoholic beverages. This was followed by recipes for different types of food in the following order: rice cakes and confectioneries, jeol-sik (seasonal foods), daily meals, foods made for jesa (ancestral rites) or a feast, food for weddings, and food for sijeol-jesa (seasonal ancestral rites). The book contained a total of 18 types of alcoholic beverages, 11 types of rice cakes and confectioneries, 20 types of daily meals, 28 types of jeol-sik and food for sijeol-jesa, 12 types of food for jesa and feasts, and 37 types of food for weddings, for a total of 126 types of food and beverages. "Bongjeopyoram" was an ancient cookbook with detailed records on how to carry out jesa, which was an important event hosted by jonggas, or the head family of a family clan, and how to receive and serve guests in the Joseon period. This book is expected to play a valuable role as a guidance with significance as a cookbook of a jongga from the Joseon Dynasty, a time when bongjesajeopbingaek (hosting jesa for one's ancestors and serving one's guest) was considered important.

A Study of the Food Culture in the Late Joseon Dynasty through Eumsikjeoljo (飮食節造) (「음식절조(飮食節造)」를 통해 본 조선시대 후기의 음식문화에 대한 고찰)

  • Han, Bok-Ryo;Park, Rok-Dam;Kim, Gwi-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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    • v.36 no.1
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    • pp.1-27
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    • 2021
  • Eumsikjeoljo (integrity with food) originally came from the Andong district, where the Goseong Yi clan inherited a cookbook from their ancestor Lee Jeong-Rong (1798~1871). The cookbook was written in an antiquated style and is estimated to have been written around the year 1865. Details of the era and authorship are seldom available for the extant ancient cookbooks. The authors of these books and the period during which these books were precisely written were studied through the Eumsikjeoljo which is a repository of 46 cooking disciplines. Of these 10 deal with the practice of traditional Korean crispy snack making, 4 with rice cake making, 3 of the yeonbyeong kind, 19 examples of Korean side dish making, 6 recipes of the kimchi variety, 2 examples of paste-based recipes, and 2 instances of instructions on how to make vinegar-based extracts. Also, in Eumsikjeoljo, there are descriptions of 29 different ways to brew rice wine. Of these, Danyang wine among the Leehwa wines and 13 others account for over 44% of the content. Leeyang wine and Sogok wine are represented by 10 different varieties and constitute around 34% of the entries. Samyang wine and Baek-il wine, along with 6 others, constitute 21% of the entries. The secret recipes of the Goseong Yi clan in the Andong district were recorded so that they could be transferred to the descendants of the clan. An inspection of the recipes and wine brewing techniques recorded in Eumsikjeoljo provides a clearer picture of the mid-1800s Andong noble family's traditional food habits and simultaneously sheds light on the late Joseon dynasty's food culture.

Historical and Cultural Study on Korean Traditional Fermented Milk, Tarak (한국 전통 발효유 타락(駝駱)에 대한 문헌 연구)

  • Osada, Sachiko;Shin, Sun Mi;Kim, Sang Sook;Han, YoungSook
    • Journal of the East Asian Society of Dietary Life
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    • v.24 no.4
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    • pp.441-443
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    • 2014
  • Korean traditional fermented milk, Tarak, came down from the Koryo dynasty according to Korean ancient cookbook SoowoonJaabaang, which was written by Taakjunggong, Yoo Kim around AD 1500. Tarak is generally refers to milk or dairy products. Three theories on 'Tarak' revealed in this study are as follows: 1) it has been derived from Dolgwol language, tarak, 2) it has originated in Mongolian language, Topar(tarague), meaning horse's milk and 3) it originated in Tarak mountain located in Hanyang, which was capital of Chosun. In Mongolia, fermented milk has been called as Tarak and it has been called as tar by Yakuts tribe who are nomads in Sakha. The common part, tar, of these words is said to be the term representing the origin of the fermented milk coming from the central Asia. Therefore, Korean Tarak seems to be part of the central Asian culture that flowed into the Korean peninsula. The manufacturing method of Mogolian Topar(tarague) is similar to those of Tarak found in the SoowoonJaabaang. This research revealed that Korean traditional fermented milk, Tarak, is thought to be affected by the central Asia, especially Mongolia.

Jang(Fermented Soybean) in Official and Royal Documents in Chosun Dynasty Period (조선조의 공문서 및 왕실자료에 나타난 장류)

  • Ann, Yong-Geun
    • The Korean Journal of Food And Nutrition
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    • v.25 no.2
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    • pp.368-382
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    • 2012
  • This paper investigated the system that is relevant to Jang(fermented soybean paste or solution), the relief of hunger-stricken people by Jang, 33 kinds of Jang, and its consumption in the documents, such as the annals of the Chosun Dynasty, Ihlseong-document, Seungjeongwon daily, Uigwe(record of national ceremony), official documents on the basis of Kyujanggak institute for the Korean studies and data base of Korean classics. There are lots of Jang named after the place of particular soybean's production from the ancient times. Jang, soybean, salt and Meju(source of Jang), during the Dynasty, were collected as taxation or tribute. In the 5th year of Hyeonjong(1664), the storage amount of soybean in Hojo(ministry of finance) was 16,200 $k{\ell}$, and its consumption was 7,694 $k{\ell}$ a year. In the 32nd year of Yongjo(1756), the 1,800 $k{\ell}$ of soybean was distributed to the people at the time of disaster, and in his 36th year(1756), the 15,426 $k{\ell}$ of soybean was reduced from the soybean taxation nationwide. The offices managing Jang are Naejashi, Saseonseo, Sadoshi, Yebinshi and Bongsangshi. Chongyoongcheong(Gyeonggi military headquarters) stored the 175.14 $k{\ell}$ of Jang, and the 198 $k{\ell}$ of Jang in Yebinshi. There are such posts managing Jang as Jangsaek, Jangdoo, and Saseonsikjang. In the year of Jeongjong(1777~1800), the royal family distributed the 3.6 $k{\ell}$ of Meju to Gasoon-court, Hygyeong-court, queen's mother-court, queen's court, royal palace. The 13.41 $k{\ell}$ of Gamjang(fermented soybean solution) was distributed to the Gasoon-court, 17.23 $k{\ell}$ to Hegyeong-court, 17.09 $k{\ell}$ to the queen's mother-court, and the 17.17 $k{\ell}$ to the queen's court each. There are 112 Jang-storing pots in the royal storages, and the 690 are in Namhan-hill, where the 2.7 $k{\ell}$ of fermented Jang was made and brought back by them each year. At the time of starvation, Jang relieved the starving people. There are 20 occasions of big reliefs, according to the annals of the Chosun Dynasty. In the 5th year of Sejong(1423), the 360 $k{\ell}$ of Jang was given to the hunger-stricken people. In his 6th year(1424), the 8,512.92 $k{\ell}$ of rice, bean, and Jang was provided and in the 28th year(1446), the 8,322.68 $k{\ell}$ of Jang was also provided to them. In the Dynasty, Jang was given as a salary. In case that when they were bereaved, they didn't eat Jang patiently for its preservation. They were awarded for their filial piety. In the annals of the Chosun Dynasty, there are 19 kinds of Jang. They are listed in the order of Jang(108), Yeomjang(90), Maljang(11), Yookjang(5), Gamjang(4), and etc.,. In Seungjeongwon daily, there are 11 kinds of Jang. Jang(6), Cheongjang (5), Maljang(5), and Tojang(3) are listed in order. In the Ihlseong-document, there are 5 kinds of Jang. They are listed in Jang(15), Maljang(2), Gamjang(2), and etc.,. There are 13 kinds of Jang in Uigwe, and the official documents, in the order of Gamjang(59), Ganjang(37), Jang(28), Yeomjang(7), Maljang(6), and Cheongjang(5). In addition, shi are Jeonshi(7), and Dooshi(4). All these are made of only soybean except, for Yookjang. The most-frequently recorded Jang among anthology, cookbook, the annals of the Chosun Dynasty, Ihlseong-document, Seoungjeongwon daily, Uigwe, or official document is Jang(372), and then Yeomjang(194), Gamjang(73), Cheongjang(46), Ganjang(46), Soojang(33), and Maljang(26), which were made of soybean. Jang from China in cookbook is not in anthology and royal palace documents. Thus, traditional Jang made of soybean was used in the daily food life in the royal court, and in the public during the Chosun period.

Fermentation and Microbial Characteristics of Korean Traditional Fermented Milk, Tarak (시판 막걸리로 제조한 전통발효유 타락의 발효 특성)

  • Jung, Jin-Kyoung;Ko, Seong-Hee;Oh, Se-Wook;Lim, Ji-Young;Chun, Tae-Hoon;Kim, SooA;Myoung, Kil-Sun;Jang, Sung Seek;Huh, Chul-Sung;Han, Young-Sook
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition
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    • v.44 no.4
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    • pp.602-609
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    • 2015
  • In this study, for modernization of Korean traditional fermented milk, Tarak was made using four kinds of commercial Makgeolli based on the ancient cookbook Suwoonjabbang. Samples of Tarak were periodically collected during 24 h of fermentation at $37^{\circ}C$. After fermentation, changes in pH, titration acidity, and viscosity were analyzed. Fermentation metabolites, including organic acids and free sugars, were analyzed by HPLC. Numbers of yeast and lactic acid bacteria during 24 h of fermentation were measured. The pH of Tarak significantly decreased (P<0.01), whereas its acidity significantly increased (P<0.01) during fermentation. The viscosity increased during 8~24 h of fermentation until curd was separated in Tarak. The level of ethanol increased from 0.37~0.52 mg/mL to 0.51~0.71 mg/mL during 24 h of fermentation. Lactic acid and lactose were the major organic acid and free sugar in Tarak, respectively. The number of lactic acid bacteria increased from 5.23~6.25 log CFU/mL to 9.87~10.41 log CFU/mL at the beginning during 24 h of fermentation. The number of yeast increased from 5.14~6.47 log CFU/mL to 6.99~7.73 at the beginning during 24 h of fermentation at $37^{\circ}C$. The major strains of Tarak were Pediococcus acidilactici, Lactobacillus fermentun, Lactobacillus curvatus, and Saccharomyces cerevisiae. Therefore, we concluded that Tarak was a fermented milk by both lactic acid bacteria and yeast, which was similar to koumiss or kefir.