• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.8
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• pp.106-119
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• 2008

This study explores grotesque characteristics that were raised as the Aesthetics of the Ugly and how it was featured in Alexander McQueen's arts. In a methodological approach, the study attempted the analysis of historical literature that was published both nationally and internationally, along with justifiable investigation using fashion/collection magazines such as Vogue, Gap and Internet search. The scope of this study ranges from 1996's Haute Couture and Pret-a-porter collection pieces modern, to date The results of this study are summarized as follows: The first grotesque characteristic present throughout Alexander Mcqueen's arts is that it featured horrifying images or evil motives with pointy heads or horns, dark colored dresses, silver accessories, Dracula, witches, skulls, soldiers of evil, death and sickness. Second, aversion was realistically portrayed by frightening objects, extreme intimacy and motives that signify death and closely relative to cruelty to human bodies. It also became visible with physical destruction of the bodies and dissecting of internal organs, etc. Thirdly, its expression of humor is out of common sense with distorted human bodies by intentionally overemphasizing certain portion of the clothes or body parts. It also featured strangely deformed bodies by ignoring the typical shapes of clothes, vague definition of gender and using of unusual objects. Forth, half-man and half-beast images are portrayed using various types of bird species or animals to Identify disparity. It further defined this image in the form of non-human cyborg by incorporating technology.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.4
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• pp.76-90
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• 2015

Based on a concept of Nietzschean nihilism, this study aimed at interpreting the nihilism in arts and its expressions, also analyzing the modern fashion collection from the same angle. The research was centered on arts after 1980, when post-modern formal destruction expanded in earnest and on the fashion collection after the 20th century, easily accessible to data. Particularly, it set 1994 nihilism collection by Alexander McQueen, a representative nihilist fashion designer as a starting point. Nietzsche mentioned that true arts may be achieved when Apollonian characteristics including a bodily sensory system and an idealization process and Dionysian characteristics including every human feeling are integrated. Besides, he emphasized the importance of an artist being represented as an image of ${\ddot{U}}bermensch$. The ${\ddot{U}}bermensch$ image, reflected in arts and artistic nihilism, represents themes of violence/death, realistic/unrealistic expressions, human body/inhuman aversion materials and the transmutation of a form. Fashion collection expressions, owing to the special characteristic of the show form unlike other arts, were segmented as a realistic ${\ddot{U}}bermensch$ image using a model in a theme, expression, material and form. The theme of violence/death was divided into the death of human and a society. Human life/death was expressed as destruction of human weakness and self-identity, sexual objectification and violence, and social death as destruction and conflict of a class, nation, culture and nature. As for the expression, it was divided into the realistic expression of the primitive/natural and directing of an unrealistic atmosphere using a show.

• Archives of design research
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.111-121
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• 2000

Jacques Derrida took off the self-contradiction of structuralism and built up a theory so called "Deconstruct". By issuing a series of papers which strongly criticized the existing western philosophy, he drew into 'strangers' alienated and deconstructed the methodology of structuralism by getting out of the antagonistic thought attaching great importance to Logos. Discomposition is realized by exposing the ex-structural elements existed inside of structuralism, and is an open philosophy recognizing the dignity and freedom of an individual than the general structure in the methodology of structuralism. Discomposition is a theory for criticizing the conservative thought frame traditional western philosophy, and deconstruct as a method of criticism persists a new epistemology by questioning to all texts including a text of tradition and deconstructing these texts. The contemporary fashion in 1990's shows the discompositive appearances with the different form. textile print and color. By the analysis according to the deconstruct process, the characters of discompositive fashion are undecidability decentring, disorder, and dislocation. Many designers like Martin Margiella, Alexander Mcqueen, and Ann Demeulemeester express these characters on their fashion. The result of this process, the characters of discompositive design can be classified matamorphosis, harmony of the disharmony and coexistence of the ambivalence.bivalence.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.71-80
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• 2001

Since the beginning of the 90's, Fashion shows appear to be a type of performance form of art combining with other areas to visually entertain the viewers. This can be explained by the modern tendency to escape from society which requires formality and complicated lifestyles. Fashion shows take place in a scene Influenced by the idea of post-modernism which redefines the definition of space. A church, old factory, unoccupied ground, subway stations, or even place like a waste disposal are used as a setting. The stage set is no longer the T shape run way and the procinium arch has disappeared. The gap between audience and stage has diminished and theatrical element is added to the fashion performance by using viewers living and working environments as setting of the show. The human relation with machine based on the cutting edge technology such as the stage automation, robots and mist making sprinkler system introduces new elements with spontaneity and detailed planning in the stage performance. Music also plays an Important role in attracting viewers. The sound track covers house music to techno music. Instead of music being abstract, folks orchestral music, choirs, piano. even live concert performed by pop artist provide the liveliness of the fashion show. And the catwalk itself is a performance. Model needs to be well trained as the capable talent who can handle sensitive gestures, facial expressions, dancing and choreography. The improvisatorial interaction between audience and model lead to audience participation. Models now range from pop star, ordinary people, handicapped people, to elderly and so on. John Galliano introduced the theatrical factors for the fashion show and Alexander Mcqueen approached the fashion show as the visual art of communication. Hussein Chalayan utilized high technology skewing futurism as if in a magic show. Today the Fashion show tends to be a total performance which includes audience participation, impromptu, and that break the limitation that fashion shows previously had. This will lead the fashion industry in opening new horizon of its own.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.32-45
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is, to renew understanding the aesthetic value of a ruff collar and to expand the border of creation in designing as the source of inspiration being applied to an retro style by inquiring various ruff collars re-illuminated in the present-day fashion trend. The ruff collar investigated through the above historical contemplation became the source of inspirations in the current retro trend and was variously modified in modern fashion. In the 1980s, we can find a dignified and feminine image in graceful and exquisite suits or dresses. Especially, the spanish round ruff of the 2st period appeared on works by a lot of designers. From the application by designers like John Galliano in the latter half of the 80s, we can be well aware that the meaning of decoration was newly altered. In the 1990s, the ruff collar was shown in various fashion style, but it was what was reborn as a factor of modern fashion through a liberal compromise and harmony. Various style was shown from exaggeratedly swelling one to smaller one, which were more diversely applied than that of the 80s. A Medici collar and a Queen Elizabeth collar were also displayed being fitted to a modern sense by Vivienne Westwood and Louis F raud. A ruff in the 2000s was settled as a factor of modern fashion, exposing on works of designers more often than in the 1980s and 90s. The spanish round ruff appeared on garments, while a Medici collar and a Queen Elizabeth collar went out of sight. A new form of the ruff was regenerated by extreme magnification and simplification, and several designers like Issey Miyake and Alexander Mcqueen brought forward a new way in materials and technical skills. According to this research, a ruff collar developed as a fashion factor which characterizes a certain period of time, reflecting the aesthetical sense of Renaissance and turning into various and distinct forms. Afterwards, it exerted influence on modern fashion. This is offering the source of inspiration to contemporary designers.