• 복식
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• 제23권
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• pp.197-209
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• 1994

The purpose of this study is to present a way to analyze and review the subjective view of the aesthetic for dress based on the framework of the aesthetic categories suggested by aesthetics. In order to define objectivism and subjectivism of the aesthetic of dress, theoretical studies on the aesthetic categories of dress were precded. And empirical studies on the aethetic categories of dress for selected period, the Renaissance (16th century) and the Baroque(17 th century). The results were follows : The objectivism of the aesthetic is the point of that an object causes human to feel and judge aesthetically, that is that of dress means judge aesthetically, that is that of dress means formal characteristic of dress and pervasive ideology expressed in dress. the subjectivism of the aesthetic is the point that the aesthetic is ruted in human, that is that of dress has been studied in relation to the image, the aesthetic consciousness m, or the aesthetic categories of dress. Especially, the aesthetic category is one of the universal and valid methods for the analysis of subjectivism of the aesthetic for dress. This study includes beauty, grace, elegance , the sublime, the tragic , the comic, aptness, ugliness as aesthetic categories of dress . Beauty is perfection and rule. Grace pleases human by sense. Elegance comes from the harmony of sense and spirit. the sublime comes into existence that human feels pleasure as well as displeasure simultaneously when human is overehelmed by objects. The tragic is the sense of the present of something valuable even if there is suffering. The comic is the sense of the presence of something amusing even if there is displeasure caused by contradiction. Apteness means utility in terms of the objectivism and , formality in terms of the subejctivism. Ugliness is opposite to beauty. As the result of emperical studies, the aesthetic categories of the Renaissance dress showed harmonious, balanced, and symmetrical beauty, and the magnificent, and enlarged sublime. In addition to these , grace and elegance were also found to some extent. Aesthetic categories of the Baroque dress show feminie, soft, cheerful, and fantastic grace, asymmetric , disarmonious, and extraordinary uglinesss, and the magnificient , grave, and dignified sublime.

• 복식
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• 제41권
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• pp.5-21
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• 1998

This study aims to show how tradition and modernity has interacted to produce the aesthetic consciousness of body and dress in contemporary Korea. For this purpose, documentary studies were proceeded. And photos of the modern Korean dress from 1980 to 1997 were analyzed. The results are as follows: First, the body form was studied in terms of exposure and concealment of the physical body parts and the perception of body was classified into two categories, the abstract and the realistic. And the dress form was studied in silhouette and the perception of dress was assorted as body priority and clothes priority. Second, the aesthetic values of body were categorized to divinity, humanity and sexuality. And the aesthetic values of dress were defined in relation to the aesthetic values of body as ascetic beauty, pure beauty, natural beauty and erotic beauty. Third, while the traditional Korean costume (Hanbok) pursues the aesthetic values of divinity and humanity of human body and ascetic beauty, pure beauty and natural beauty on the aesthetic values of humanity of human body and the pure beauty and natural beauty of dress. The contemporary Korean fashion expresses the aesthetic values of divinity, humanity and sexuality of human body and the aesthetic values of ascetic beauty, pure beauty, natural beauty and erotic beauty of dress. In conclusion, the emphasis of sexuality of body and erotic beauty of dress in the modern Korean dress can be interpreted as the change of the aesthetic consciousness of body and dress in contemporary Korean by the influence of the western modernity.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제44권11호
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• pp.35-42
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• 2006

A criticism model for dress was developed to offer a methodological insight into research on aesthetics of dress. Concepts from Edmund B. Feldman's art criticism model, James D. Carney's style-relative model of art criticism, and Sung Bok Kim's fashion criticism model were borrowed and integrated to create a criticism model for dress, comprising identification of styles, descriptive features, aesthetic value features, external interpretation, socio-cultural interpretation, and evaluation. Both inductive and deductive approaches for the identification of styles can be made in the process of dress criticism. In the former case, descriptive features and aesthetic features are sequentially identified to locate the styles of dress. In the latter case, styles are identified first, and descriptive features and aesthetic features are identified accordingly. Logical criticisms can be made based on the critics' background knowledge of the history of dress and art.

• 복식
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• 제50권7호
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• pp.235-247
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• 2000

This study was conducted to consider the formation of sleeves from the point of view that dress is one of expressive arts. The formative meaning of a sleeve and its chronological formation according to its formative changes as an evidence showing the Internal changes of social culture were examined, centering around day dress of England in the 11th to 19th centuries. Then, sleeves were formatively classified and their aesthetic values were considered to help do formative, aesthetic expression of dress design in the present times. Literatures and references concerning the history of domestic and foreign dress were used as a method of study. The results of this study are summarized as follows. 1. In the women's dress, the formation of the sleeve focuses on aesthetic decoration. This means that in the androgentric society the status of women are subordinate socioculturally. 2. Sleeves were classified into a fitted shape and a extension shape according to the aesthetic formation. The fluted shape expressed the beauty of body with emphasis old natural body, whereas the extension shape represented aesthetic expression of decoration. 3. The formation of a sleeve has influence on forming an image of dress by making the silhouette of dress natural or distorted, expresses the harmonious beauty of the whole dress, and produces the expressional beauty that gives a distinct characteristic to a dress.

• 복식
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• 제54권5호
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• pp.95-107
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• 2004

Elegance in dress has existed as one of the important archetypes of aesthetic consciousness through the times. Nevertheless, there has generally been Ignored the Idea of analyzing it. The purpose of this study is to provide a framework for a better understanding of the beauty of dress by constructing the concept of elegance in dress as both one of aesthetic categories in dress and refined taste in the sociocultural contexts. For the purpose, the documentary study in sociocultural and aesthetic contexts has been executed. Considering from the holistic viewpoint, elegance in dress is based upon the idea of aristocratic taste cultivated by good breeding. It is expressed visually through not only the carefully contrived dress hut also a sort of aura of dressed body - a combination of appearance, behavior, attitude, manner etc.- with skillful ease. The aesthetic values of elegance consist of luxury, nobility, refinement, femininity, harmony Luxury means rarity and opulence of materials, craftsmanship for excellent qualities, genuineness. Nobility, related to the lady and the gentleman, can be explained as neatness. decency. modesty. and appropriateness for formal occasions. Refinement involves artifice, sophistication, maturity, and subtleness. Femininity reflects the characteristic of feminine attractiveness such as the dainty, the florid, the sweet. Harmony means organic unity. matching with body, moderation in opposition to exaggeration. These values has rather interactivity than exclusion. It is refinement and harmony that are centered on of all values.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제4권
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• pp.63-80
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• 2004

Elegance in dress has been mentioned as an important term for explaining a beauty of dress and a fashion image through the times in the history of dress. Nevertheless, it has been spoken indeterminately without analyzing the accurate meaning. In addition, almost all the scattered discourses of it were very limited to womenswear. The purpose of this study is to provide a framework for a better understanding of the concept of elegance and its aesthetic characteristics expressed visually on dress from the holistic viewpoint, focusing on male elegance in dress. To obtain the purpose, the documentary study and the practical analysis were carried out. Elegance in dress is based upon the idea of aristocratic taste cultivated by good breeding. It is expressed visually through not only the carefully contrived dress but also a sort of aura of dressed body with skillful ease. Its aesthetic values consist of luxury, nobility, refinement, femininity, harmony. Though male elegant styles had already existed throughout the history of dress, it was Mannerism in the 16th century which expressed ‘studied elegance’ for the first time. On the grounds of both the classification of periodic styles and the periodic values, they can be defined and categorized into Mannerism Elegance, Salon Elegance, Modern Elegance Since Dandyism, Aestheticism Elegance. In the late 20th century they can be recognised as Classic Dandyism Elegance, Soft Casual Elegance, Elaborate Heroic Elegance. Although male elegance in dress has been visualized in different ways depending on periodic values, it has essentially been a refined beauty of high class which was valued until recent years. Its common plastic features appear as soft shapes, subtle colors and delicate fabrics modulated with exquisiteness and well-adorned appearance, graceful behavior make elegant styles completed. All of elegant styles have m common with refinement, harmony as main aesthetic values.

• 복식
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• 제56권5호
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• pp.132-149
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to establish the theoretical view for the analysis of the aesthetic characteristics of dress from the viewpoint of oriental aesthetics. Also, this study examined the universality and particularity of aesthetic characteristics in Korean and Japanese women's traditional costumes. To establish the theoretical view for the aesthetic analysis of dress from the viewpoint of oriental aesthetics, this study examined the relationship between the internal spirit of human, culture and the external form of dress. Based on this consideration, the viewpoints for the analysis of dress formation were the 'Form' as the basic structure of the external formation of dress and 'the Ornamentation' as the emphasis of the artistic characteristics of dress. The common world view shared by Korea and Japan holds the thinking system that everything is created from 'not to bee(無)' to 'being(有)'. This view emphasizes the totality and circulation of energy called 'Ki(氣)'. According to this view, oriental culture has been developed by intuition and pleasure called 'Heung(興)'. Therefore, the form of the oriental culture includes ambiguity and emphasizes the total harmony. These characteristics appeared in dress as the design of ambiguity, asymmetry and concealment. The meaning of the ornamentation in oriental world was the unified harmony of diversity and the colors and patterns of oriental dress were used by the symbolic meaning of Yin-Yang & Wu-Shing (陰陽五行)s principles. On the basis of the world view of the Ki, Korean and Japanese women's traditional costumes commonly shared the aesthetic values of concealment, emptiness, and symbolism. Also, their costumes expressed the difference, especially in the ornamentation. Korean costume expressed the beauty of simplicity and naivety, and Japanese costume expressed the beauty of ornamentation and nonornamentatIon.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제24권5호
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• pp.89-105
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• 2020

This study considers aesthetic characteristics by examining red carpet dress in China film festival. The research methods were quantitative and qualitative analysis of red carpet dress images collected from 2015 to 2019 on websites according to four criteria following previous research on red carpet dresses. The results of the study are as follows. First, the analysis of red carpet dress silhouettes showed that A-line silhouettes, slim silhouettes, and mermaid silhouettes appeared. Second, in terms of colors, one color, black, represented a higher proportion of the dress colors than the combination of different colors. Third, soft texture occupied the highest proportion of material textures, and combinations of materials with different textures were also used. In the case of patterns, the proportion of dresses without patterns was high, and natural patterns were found in the largest proportion. Beads and sequins accounted for most of the dress details, and the analysis showed that various detail types such as embroidery, slits, ruffles, and belts were used in the red carpet dresses. The aesthetic characteristics of the red carpet dresses worn at the China film festival were analyzed as sensual, elegant, decorative, and simple.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.95-109
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• 2010

The goal of this dissertation is to analyze the formative characteristic and the aesthetic values of Romantic style. To attain the goal of this study, the selected objects are the Romantic styles that were prevalent from the 1830s to the 1880s. The methodology for this study consists of literary research, aesthetics, dress and case study based upon the analysis of the 19th century dress. Based upon the theoretical study, two results are derived from the analysis of Romantic style in $19^{th}$ century dress. First, the formative characteristics of Romantic style dress are suppression of body, fixed form, volume, and ornamentation. The suppression of body is embodied by two ways. One is tightening body parts, such as the off-the-shoulder line and the corset, and the other is applying weights on body through the wearing of layers of petticoat, crinoline and bustle. The characteristic of the fixed form created the fixed silhouettes of women's dress, for example, an X-silhouette formed with wide shoulders created by big puffed sleeves, narrow waist by corset, and wide hemline of voluminous skirt and petticoats. In addition to the X-silhouette, the bustle style created fixed h-silhouette. Volume in the women's dress were visually expressed by big puffed sleeves, a huge skirt and petticoat made with gathers, pleats and flounces, crinolines and a bustle. Ornamentation was used to express an elegant and fantastic style not only by using luxurious materials in various colors and patterns, but also by applying sumptuous details and trimmings. Second, the aesthetic values of Romantic style dress are subordination, sensuality, and maternity. Women's dress of the 19th century not only restricted free movement and symbolized men's wealth and status, but also was used as an important tool for seducing men by exposing and accentuating the sexual body, thus becoming a symbol of fertility as a metaphor of pregnancy and uterus. These aesthetic values represented in dress incorporated the contemporary requirements of women of the time.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권8호
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• pp.1076-1087
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• 2004

The purpose of the study is to give new aesthetic values of black dress one of the important items in contemporary women＇s fashion. Through the work, to give the new aesthetic characteristics that women really needed can be found. This study was processed by fashion books and articles, literal material with fashion photos which were related fashion trend from 1920 to the present. The results are as follows: In early 20th century, the black dress, which had simple form pursuing function like little black dress. In the middle of the 20th century, elegance and minimalism was represented by black dress, expressed erotic images together with see-through fabrics. In the end of the 20th century, body conscious style of black dress expressed sensual images of women. Modem black dress has design characteristics of the form: simple, close, exposure type and of the materials: matte, transparent and dazzling etc. Simple type emphasizes feminine elegance, while close type and exposure type disclose woman body curve to express erotic images. Matte materials made black dress express feminine elegance while transparent materials and dazzling materials made black dress express erotic and sensual beauty. The aesthetic characteristics of black dress were as followings: Sensualism expresses sexual attractiveness of women-close type and exposure type black dress and see-through materials and dazzling materials made black dress. Simplicity of extreme decoration effects are expressed through black dress having temperate and simple form. Femineity expresses traditional femineity to emphasize chaste, modest and elegant women images-the black dress, which is made of simple form, velvet and satin materials. Modernism combines black colour, which is called modem colour, with simplicity and function factors and pursues simple form. Ascetic practice controls mental and physical desire of the individuals, simple form without decoration covering up woman body and box type silhouette of black dress. Therefore, the study on image of the black dress, which have made appearance at modern fashion, is thought to help develop fashion trends and design, through which modern women express themselves and their beauty.