• 복식
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• 제51권2호
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• pp.149-167
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• 2001

Today, every culture has taken on the compromise form by means of the cultural difference, variety, and pluralism according to the internationalization and the advance so that it has been developed toward the half-blooded and multilayered the aspect. In accordance with this current of the times, this thesis observed the feminism found in the multiculturism of the end of the 20th century, the third world, and technology with the side of the tendency of modern fashion, considered the hybride phenomenon which is pulling down the wall between culture and genre due to the social diversification. and predicted the fashion trend do 21st century serf on it. Multiculturism is the movement that began to arise in the academic world of America and the literary world form the close of 1980's in accepting the variety of culture and regarding the culture with the more balanced and wide view and just as it is, it means the attitude of accepting one or more cultures of variely and the position of taking interest in the culture of minority race not the culture of a governing race. It is the fashion of feminism adapts dualism like unisex, androgynous look, etc of bisexual lendency in the 1980's, it shows new style with crossover of liberal sense because there is not the difference of sex in fashion. The eco-feminism pursues the natural sexuality not being instrumental and dismantling and expressed it in the Gender expression of an integrated human being. The trend of ethnic fashion in the close of 20th century is that the element of hippie is working so strongly. By adding embroidery of Oriental style, accessories of Indian style, feathers, beads, a hempen hood to the ethnic costumes of Asia and Latin, is shows the figure of ethnic hippie. As the cycler fashion is the future clothes through technology of computer, it uses a cool glass material bringing up the image of a spacesuit in order to expresses cyber image through artificial color combination of sheen colors, Though this techno-color fashion has established the fresh stimulation and the innovative aspect with ultramodern materials and image of futurism, it transmits a hope of estranged people and the natural elements. Hybride means a cross and mixture of animal and plant in Korean and is also called fusion. The phenomenon of hybrid predicts to comes the period of a cross and variation because something completely new comes into the world by contamination, mixture and compromise through meeting something different each other and it has on advantage of developing something existing to one more stage. It is prospected that in the society of 21st century, the borderline of traditional gender will be disappeared, variety and individuality will determine the individual behavior, and the masculine value will be substituted by feminine value. In the society giving priority to feminine value, a fashion stuck closely to women is what must reflect lives of woman under the proposition of woman's beauty, being on original function. So, it is considered that a fashion with added convenience and practicality having the function which is easy to put on, comfortable to act, able to express solves so much, and able to show various appearances according to T.P.O will get into the spotlight.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권3호
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• pp.73-84
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• 2022

This study aims to present the direction of research for rational clothing design and production and improve the productivity of the fashion industry by analyzing the most recent 11 years (from 2010 to 2021) with regard to the clothing construction field. Analyzing the research trends in the field of clothing construction, which is deeply related to clothing production, will suggest the direction of research for clothing design and production. To analyze the current status of research in the field of clothing construction, research trends were analyzed, focusing on 525 research journal articles from six Korean clothing-related journals with terms related to torso and upper and lower limbs. The analysis results of this study are as follows. First, the rapid development of IT technology requires changes and innovations in all processes of clothing construction, including body shape analysis and pattern design. Therefore, it is believed that both body shape and pattern research should be continuously conducted to produce clothes with an excellent silhouette and fit depending on the body shape through studies, such as developing 3D patterns and converting 3D body figures into 2D patterns, among others. Second, since body shape studies are concentrated on young, middle-aged, and the elderly, it is believed that various body shape studies should be conducted on infants and elementary, middle, and high school students who have significant changes in body shape due to changes in the living environment. Third, if the content of pattern research is expanded to various items and is widely conducted, it will contribute to the production of clothing that has an excellent fit. Fourth, at a time when aging in society is accelerating, it is believed that research on patterns and clothing systems that can increase the fit of clothing by analyzing the body types of elderly male and female consumers should be actively conducted. Because the analysis was conducted only among six Korean academic journals, there is a limitation in the expanded interpretation of the results derived from this study.

• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제4권4호
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• pp.63-74
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• 2006

The purpose of the study was to investigate unique field of formative characteristics using copper wire, the present thesis aims at developing concept of hair art as a creative way, and recognizing the formative characteristics of copper wire as analyze and arrange the concept of hair art, formative, a way of practical application, material aspect, through literature, academic journals, photo data, and researched about prior piece, for example, architecture and costume with hair art, and then pieces of hair art were made. Influenced by the theory, applied the social phenomenon and the formative principles, produced the seven pieces which includes flying, composure, yahoo, harmony, balance, way, spring etc. The results of this research are outlined below. Firstly, It showed that the copper wire can express the mysterious and beautiful formative world, and it could know the possibility of design. Secondly, formative activity using copper wire can differ according to approach and interpretation, and it can be a works with aesthetic value. Thirdly, hair could be express the art of the three-dimensional forms which constitute the mixture of line, surface and space. Fourthly, the handicraft including beading, pleat, piping, rolling that used for works are proper to express the unique formative and the rich colors, and it can also express the transparency. So it showed that copper wire is a proper materials. So, hair art has enlarged the fields with development of technique, and changed to recognition of the hair art, and opened up a new field. Hair art will be positive fields to maximize the possibility, and not only the beauty artist but also the public will be communicate each other.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.38-47
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• 2007

In the modern society that is advancing rapidly, the hair art is also advancing and subdividing. The purpose of this study is to investigate unique field of formative as characteristics and forms of copper wire, focused on such a harmony of hair art, the present thesis aims at developing concept of hair art as a creative way, and recognizing the formative characteristics of copper wire as analyze and arrange the concept of hair art, formative, a way of practical application, material aspect, through literature, academic journals, photo data, and researched about prior piece, for example, architecture and costume with hair art, and then pieces of hair art were made. Influenced by the theory, applied the social phenomenon and the formative principles, produced the five pieces which includes balance, composure, flying, harmony, way, spring etc. The results of this research are outlined below. Firstly, It showed that the copper wire can express the mysterious and beautiful formative world, and it could know the possibility of design. Secondly, formative activity using copper wire can differ according to approach and interpretation, and it can be a works with aesthetic value. Thirdly, hair could be express the art of the three-dimensional forms which constitute the mixture of line, surface and space. So, hair art has enlarged the fields with development of technique, and changed to recognition of the hair art, and opened up a new field. Hair art will be positive fields to maximize the possibility, and not only the beauty artist but also the public will be communicate each other.

• 한국도서관정보학회지
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• 제43권3호
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• pp.101-120
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• 2012

이 연구는 의류학 분야의 학문적 특성과 분류체계를 비교 분석함으로써, 의류학 분야의 분류특성과 문제점을 분석하고 이를 토대로 KDC 제5판 의류학 분야의 분류체계 수정 전개 방안을 제시하였다. 연구결과를 요약하면 아래와 같다. 첫째, 의류학 분야의 학문적 연구영역이 연구분류체계와 문헌분류체계에서는 대부분 민속학(복식), 화학공학(세탁, 염색공학), 제조업(피혁 및 모피공업, 직물 및 섬유공업, 의류제조), 생활과학(의복), 공예 및 장식미술(염직물공예) 등의 세목으로 분산 배치되어 있다. 둘째, 국립중앙도서관의 의류학 분야 KDC 유별 자료현황을 조사하여 특정 분류항목에 지나치게 자료가 집중되고 있는 KDC 문제점을 분석하고 이를 중심으로 개선방안을 제시하였다. 셋째, 분류항목의 수정 전개는 원칙적으로 의류학 분야의 학문체계에 따르되 기존의 KDC 분류체계를 가능한 한 그대로 유지하도록 하였으며, 항목간의 이동은 최소화하였다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권8호
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• pp.1029-1043
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• 2013

The pearl is a highly valuable gem that has historically represented wealth and power. Pearl necklaces have developed intro various types and represent an essential status item for modern women. This study first examines the symbolic and various meanings of pearls. Second, this study examines wearing types and pearl necklace patterns based on historical figures and modern fashion icons famous for personal displays of pearls. This study examines and analyzes various specialty publications about jewels, history of costumes, fashion magazines, academic research data, and internet search results. The conclusion of this study is as follows. Pearls have various symbolic meanings that are unlike other gems. Pearls represent purity, innocence, marital fidelity, an intimate relationship with the moon, frozen tears of God, solitude, triumph over adversity, wisdom, and sensual attraction. The societies and people traditionally famous for pearls were the Roman Empire, Queen Cleopatra of Egypt, Queen Theodora of the Byzantine Empire, Queen Elizabeth I, Queen Marie Antoinette, Empress of Eugenie Napoleon III, and Queen Alexandra. They showed a special affection for pearl necklaces and various wearing patterns unique to the time. Their pearl necklaces became a historic and symbolic legacy. Reestablished through the costume jewelry of cultivated pearls designed by Coco Chanel in the $20^{th}$ century, the pearl necklace has showed a variety of fashion trends in addition to a traditional symbolism of wealth and power. Josephine Baker, Louise Brooks, Marilyn Monroe, Elizabeth Taylor, Jacqueline Kennedy, Queen Elizabeth II, Princess Diana, Michelle Obama and Sarah Jessica Parker have worn notable pearl necklaces and established an individual style that utilizes the adornment of fashionable and stylish pearl necklaces. They have worn pearl necklaces while applying various fashion trend motifs to symbolic pearl features of that have changed the perception of the pearl and themselves.

• 복식
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• 제22권
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• pp.135-158
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• 1994

The fashion industry of today is closely re-lated with the information activity. This study investigates now they take advantage of the fashion information by analysing some related fields including fashion design. Furthormore this study identify the factor which makes the design activity distinctive and predict and fu-ture trend in design. The purposes of this study through analysis are : to help find the way to facilitate the fashion industry and to develop the fashion merchandising in order to activate the re-cession of manufacturers and to improve competitiveness in the world market and to contribute to the academic achievement in the study of fashion merchandising. In the experimental approach the tasks of research are as follows: Research 1: The application of fashion infor-mation is discussed in terms of process and level. Research 2: The differences of the fashion design activities are captured on the basis of the characteristics of manufactures and fashion specialists and fashion information ac-tivities. The factors are identified which pre-dict and discriminate the results of fashion de-sign activities. The questionaire and interview were conduc-ted among women's clothing manufactures in Seoul and their fashion specialists in charge of merchandise development. The methods of survey were designed on the basis of theories developed so far and on he advice from the social scientists and fashion specialists. the methods were corrected and complemented through the 1st and 2nd preliminary investigations before their application For data analysis cronbach's a coefficient fre-quency percentage average standard devi-ation pearson's correlation coefficient were calculated and t-test F-test(ANOVA) Duncan's multiple range test regression and Discriminant analysis were conducted. The results of analysis throughout the experimen-tal studies were as follows: 1. The analysis of fashion in formation (1) the present application of information a. The source of information : Both the foreign and the domestic information came mostly from fashion journals magazines newspapers and other periodicals, the main source of market information was collected from the survey of popular items in recent years the data about the life-style of customers and their tastes for wearing were widely used as the information about consumers. b. The applicaton of information : The most widely used information was about fabrics. The foreign information was prefered on the whole. The domestic problems pointed out in this investgation were that the domestic journals showed the lack of specialty and the special organizations for fashion informatino were in urgent need. (2) The research of fashion information a. The various processes and levels of in-formation activities: Among the process of collection analysis and distribution the collec-tion process showed a good acheivement whereas the distribution whereas the distribution didn't. In levels of the systematic activities the acceptance of support and the utility of supported instruments the first indicated a high degree whereas the second showed lowest. b. The correlationship among subvariables : There was a significant correlation between the collection and the analysis process. The systematic activities revealed close relation-ship with the analysis process and the accept-ance of support with the distribution process. The close correlation was found between the utility of supported instruments and the analy-sis process. 2. The analysis of the fashion design activities (1) No significant differences were found in the design activities when the characteristics of companies were compared only. (2) According to the characteristics of fashion specialists the one with age experi-ence and high income showed rather good achievement but no significant differences were captured among sex department in charge title academic background education in abroad and field experience (3) The fashion information activities were strongly correlated with the design achieve-ment : The analysis process and the system-atic activity level had a great influence on the design activities. (4) In order to examine which cha-racteristics in (1-3) made it possible to pre-dct and discriminate the achievement in de-sign activities the Discriminant analysis was carried out. The results were as follows: the fashion information activities showed the highest discriminant rate. Next came the in-come level experience and age in that order Those four variables discrimated 37 from 50 who showed great achievement in design area (74%) and 51 from 83 in low achievement group (81%) Thus the total discriminant rate was 77.5%.

• 디지털융복합연구
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• 제12권6호
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• pp.637-643
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• 2014

본 연구는 학술지의 질적인 수준을 평가할 수 있는 도구인 상호인용 빈도를 활용하여 의류학 관련 학술지의 영향력을 파악하고, 나아가 연결망 그래프를 활용하여 학술지 간의 관계도를 연구하여 연구자들에게 국내 의류 관련 학술지에 대한 정보를 제공함으로써 영향력 있는 학술지를 보다 쉽게 파악하고자 한다. 분석대상은 한국연구재단에 등재되어 있는 의류학관련 10개 학술지로 하였으며, 상호인용 빈도는 2008년부터 2011년까지의 논문으로 KCI 데이터베이스로부터 재정리된 별도의 자료를 이용하였다. 연결망분석에 활용한 소프트웨어는 R ver. 2.15이다. 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 자기인용비율에 대해서는 패션과 니트가 압도적으로 높고 한국의상디자인학회지가 다음 순이었다. 둘째, 중분류 생활과학에 속하는 23개 학술지의 영향력지수 평균이 1.00임에 비추어 볼 때, 의류학 관련 학술지들의 영향력지수 평균은 0.681로 다소 낮은 편이다. 한국생활과학회지는 1.24의 영향력 지수를 보여 중분류 생활과학에 속하는 학술지 평균보다 높았다. 한국생활과학회지는 근접중심성 및 중개중심성도 한국의류학회지와 함께 높아 의식주 관련 학술지들의 상호인용에 있어 중심적인 역할을 하는 것으로 나타났다.

• 공연문화연구
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• 제25호
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• pp.253-289
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• 2012

다시래기는 전라남도 진도 지방에서 전승되는 상장례놀이로서, 죽음의 현장에서 새생명이 탄생한다는 생사불이(生死不二)의 메시지를 담고 있다. 더불어 많은 춤과 노래, 재담을 포함한 독특한 양식적 구조로 인해 현장 연희판에서 새로운 콘텐츠에 목말라 있던 공연문화 담당층의 주목을 끌기에 충분했다. 다시래기에 관한 많은 선행연구물들이 이들의 다시래기 재창조 작업에 커다란 도움을 주었다는 것은 불문가지의 사실이다. 그러나 이전의 연구들이 진도다시래기를 다각도로 다루어 적지 않은 성과를 이루어 내었지만 주로 학술적 접근을 통해 연행의 상징적 의미를 구명하는 데 치중한 것이 사실이다. 또한 공연요소들에 대한 접근도 대본, 노래가사, 재담, 행색, 소도구, 장단, 춤사위 등의 소개에 그쳐 정작 중요한 공연요소인 소리(창(唱))의 구체적 모습에 대한 연구가 없어 아쉬움으로 남아 있었다. 이에 본고는 다시래기 음악을 분석하고 그 음악의 성격과 특징을 악보와 함께 제시하여 공연현장의 연희실기자들에게 실질적인 도움을 주고자 하였다. 본고에서 음악분석 대상으로 삼은 소리는 가상제놀이와 거사 사당놀이에 나오는 모든 소리, 그리고 연희패의 입장 시에 부르는 상여소리로 한정하였다. 다시래기 다섯 절차 중 가상제놀이와 거사 사당놀이, 상여소리가 가장 많이 공연되기 때문이다. 수많은 공연 자료가 있지만 분석의 텍스트로는 E&E미디어에서 출반된 음반인 "진도다시래기"를 택하였다. 이는 이 음원의 녹음상태가 우수하며 무엇보다 본고에서 제시된 악보를 학습 자료로 삼아 다시래기 소리를 익히고자 하는 연희실기자들이 음원 구득과 그 활용을 용이하게 할 수 있다는 판단에서이다. 음악분석 결과, 진도다시래기에서 불리는 소리들은 대부분 꺾는 음이 있는 '미'음계를 사용한 전형적인 육자배기토리로 짜여 있었다. 그리고 '솔'음계의 남부경토리는 극히 일부분에 짧게 나타나며, 음악적 완결성은 갖추지 못하고 있는 것도 알 수 있었다. 또한 같은 상장례음악임에도 씻김굿과의 음악적 친연성은 거의 발견되지 않는데, 이는 망자를 달래서 천도하는 씻김굿과 산 자의 삶을 북돋우는 다시래기의 성격과 기능이 다른 데서 비롯된 음악적 특징이라고 생각된다. 한편 다시래기 소리 전반에 판소리 음악어법적 특징들이 보이는데, 이는 다시래기의 복원과 전승에 있어서 주도적 역할을 한 예능보유자의 과거 창극단 활동이력과 무관하지 않다고 여겨진다. 다시래기 예능 담당자의 이러한 활동이력은 다시래기 원형의 변질을 초래한 원인이 되기도 하였지만, 한편으로는 다시래기의 공연요소를 더욱 풍부하게 하여 공연현장에서 콘텐츠로 활용될 수 있는 연희적 기반을 확장시킨 결과로도 나타났다. 본고의 작업이 다시래기를 원형 삼아 죽음의 상실을 극복하고 삶의 활력을 지켜낼 미래의 진지한 현장예술가들에게 의미 있게 활용되기를 기대한다.