• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.111-121
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• 2004

The Mevelana sect is a spiritual Islamic group experiencing spiritual transaction with their god through a peculiar dancing as a form of religious ritual. The Mevelana, a sect of Islamic Sufism, has their head mosque in Konya in Turkey. Although Mevelana sect is regarded as heretic of Islam, it has exerted considerable influence on the Islamic religion through its peculiar religious worshiping form constituted in dancing and reciting poems. Nowadays, Turkey recognizes the Mevelana dancing as their precious cultural legacy of a long history, exerting public information efforts to give it for wider publicity of Turkey to the world. The Mevelana dress with ornament attired for the ritual dancing performance is regarded to symbolize a spiritual medium, which leads to conciliation with the eternity. The straight lines and curved line characteristic of the Mevelana dancer's trousers, skirt, jacket and such mirrors the image of the Orientals, which is in peculiar contrast with the white and gray colors of the dress with ornament. The impression of the spiritual Mevelana dressing in harmony with the dynamic dancing motion goes beyond mere a religious dressing. It is expressive of a graceful and sophisticated modern formative art, of which the mystic design gives an inspiration to the modern fashion. After Poiret, Islamic factors have emerged in the modern fashion. For instance, a hat with Arabic fashion lapel, a Fez hat of Turkish style, harem pants and such are still popular in the modern fashion. It seems probable that the Iraq War would far more activate the influence of Arabic culture to the modern fashion. By making an analysis on the religious background and formative characteristics of the Mevelana dressing, and by giving design examples on how the Mevelanan dressing has been applied to the modern fashion, this research suggests working out new designs by making a renewed application of their characteristics to the modern fashion.

• 복식
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• 제52권7호
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• pp.167-177
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• 2002

This study revolves around the costume of the Naadam festival worn in the opening ceremony. during competition and the costume of the public. their purpose are two fold. First they are to be the main reference for the diverse Mongolian costumes that have been researched. Secondly, they will help us understand better the culture that revolves around Mongolian costumes. The results are as follows : 1) The opening ceremony costume, The opening ceremony starts with a procession of soldiers with 9 flags. The flags are made from the hairs of white horses and they signify peace and tranquility, ever since the beginning of Chinggis Khans time. The costumes resemble a European military uniform 2) The costumes for competition. $\circled1$ Wrestlers' costume comprises of a jacket with sleeves but no front and shorty shorts of red or blue colored silk, a traditional hat and traditional boots. $\circled2$ Archers' costume comprises of their traditional costume, deel, hat and boots. $\circled3$ Horse riders who are usually children wear a comfortable and simple jacket and pants. 3) The costume of the public : The general public that attended the festival were dressed in a western fashion but differ according to different age groups $\circled1$ The costumes of the younger Mongolian : The majority of the men wore traditional costumes that were appropriate to the festival, the women did not as they were more prone to the influence of fads of western cultures and dressed in a more daring fashion. In addition. the children also dressed in a more modem western fashion. $\circled2$ The costumes of the elderly Mongolian : The elderly, oblivious of whatever season it was, were dressed in a more traditional fashion which is the deel.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.981-992
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• 2011

The objectives of this study were to analyze the design elements of hairstyles, wedding headdresses, and necklines in wedding magazine pictures by using content analysis method and to investigate the differences in image perception according to hairstyle, wedding headdress, and neckline. A quasi-experimental method by questionnaire was used. The experimental design was a $2{\times}5{\times}4$(hairstyles${\times}$wedding headdresses${\times}$necklines) factorial design by 3 independent variables. The subjects consisted of 378 female college students. The results are as follow. First, the most popular among hairstyles, headdresses, and neckline forms were the updo hairstyle, dark brown hair color, the crown headdress, white flowers, and the horizontal bared top. Second, the elements determined to be most elegant and attractive were the medium-up hairstyle and the crown with a veil. However the wedding hat was perceived to be high in individuality and tenderness, while the flower and the wedding hat were perceived to be very pretty. The halter neckline was perceived to be higher in individuality and attractiveness than the other neckline types. Third, the medium-up hairstyle when wearing a crown with veil was perceived to be the most elegant. Placing a flower in the long-wave hairstyle was evaluated as looking most pretty. Fourth, the medium-up hairstyle was higher in preference than the long-wave style. Among wedding headdresses, there was greatest preference for a crown.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.161-172
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• 1994

This is part of a study on the origin of modernist forms and settings. Forms in Modern Architecture are totally new as though they seemed to be originated from some remote culture. Archaeological studies and Laugier's primitivist attitude to the classical architecture provided a way leading, in the end, to pure structures and abstract forms. An application of the classical elements was combined with the ultimate image of nobility, simplicity and rationality. What the seventeenth and eighteenth century theorists realized in the ruines of the classical structures were not the ones with their original organic vitality but the deteriorated, naked and abstracted ones. The essence of the classical structures has been the one of the main references of the modern white architecture. Ration and Nature were the quintessential terms in the design process of the Enlightenment architects of the late eighteenth and nineteenth centuries as they were in the twentieth century architecture. Pure geometric and symbolic forms were new inventions for the new revolutionary age after the development of architectural Styles, successive until Baroque and Roccoco, ceased to go on to the next phase. Many of their buildings appeared so modem in character, for they were omitted all but the essential structure and decoration. Other sides of rationality in the pre-modern age were evolved in terms of the paradigmatic research and the logic in structure. Durand developed a systematic typological approach to the forms. Geometry was the basis of his designs and his illustrations resembled endless simple geometrical problems. One of the other rational approaches was mainly developed by Viollet-le-Duc. To him, Gothic architecture was the model in which each members functioned actively and exerted counterpressure and the Middle Ages invented new fantastic forms. The several ways of rational approaches in architecture were led to the 'tabula rasa' planning in modern architecture. Nature was remained untouched and not deformed as Ledoux's houses in the $H{\hat{o}}tel$ de $Th{\acute{e}}lusson$ were setted on informal gardens. It is part of the modem image that Nature flows or interpenetrates through the white prisms of the strictest classical purity and machines.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제31권4호
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• pp.215-229
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• 1993

As a result of making an inquiry into the ethnic look of each region appearing in present-day fashion by Asia. America and Oceania. Africa and Europe as mentioned above, its characteristics could be summarized as follows: Firstly the Asian ethnic look consists of Indian, Chinese and Japanese looks as mainstream. In terms of form, the draped form constituted its mainstream, and both the draped form and the tunic form are appearing Simultaneously in the Chinese look. And in respect to color the Indian look is using luxurious primary colors red, blue, yellow and green and other regions are making overall use of natural colors. With respect to ornament various kinds of ornaments is utilized in Indian's Sari and turban. Chines's Coolie hat, straw hat and embroidery, knotted button, and bead ornament, and Japan's Obi and Obijime, etc. Secondly in America and Oceania, costurme representing the Indian look in North America and the picture of Western pioneer, and the Peruvian, Mexican and chilean ethnic looks in South America were expressing much. Here, the form consistied a draped form as its main strem, such colors as yellow, purple, grey, etc were much utilized, and the material of costume comprised knits, cotton and the like. And the ornament consisted of hats, tassel ornaments, bead ornaments, metal chain belt, long braided hair, etc. Thirdly, the African ethnic look had an exposing form and a draped form, and such colors as black, white, yellow, brown, etc were used as the fashion color. Ornaments such as precious stone, bead ornaments, animal bones, straw metal ornament, etc were used as fashion decorations. Fourthly, Russia's Cossack look, Bulgaria's Bavshika look, spain's ethnic look cane to the fore as the European look Both the draped form and the tunic form were used simultaneously as fashion form. And grey, brown, purple, etc were much used as fashion color in the European look. Such ornaments as Cossack. Bavshka, boots, tassel ornaments were much used and paisley pattern also was used.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.305-323
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• 1996

The purpose of this sty is to forecast the tendency of clothing colors, to provide materials useful for making the color plan for a better costume, and suggest new information in the apparel industry. To achieve these purposes, this study was carried out by suggesting vogue colors of recent apparel, along with the 20 standard colors of Muncell to 350 men and women in their 20s residing in Taegu.. We analysed and compared their preferred colors in suits vidual factor ;age, sex, education ,skin color, and body shape, and additionally classifying their interest in clothing colors, cause for color selection , degree of interest in color of clothes, color satisfaction of apparel market, and color combination of clothing, color satisfaction of apparel market, and color combination of clothing. We compared these elements according to their age, sex, and education. The results of this study is summarized as follows; 1. It was shown that both men and women in their 20s preferred warm colors the first colors mentioned being the most popular ; Pastels, Red, Blue and Black. They disliked dark and sordid colros in the order of Mauve, Khaki and Red. They preferred wearing Pastels and Yellow in the Spring, White, Blue, and Pastels were the favorites for summer, Beige in autumn, and black, Gray, and Beige in winter. The repugnated colors they chose two wear were Black, Red, Mauve, Khaki in spring and summer. Mauve, Red, Yellow were favorites for autumn, and Blue·White, Yellow·Green, and Pastels in winter. 2. The preferred colors for T-shirts were Yellow, Pastels, White in spring. White and Pastels were summer favorites, Beige an Red for autumn, and Black, Red, Beige in Winter. As for suits, the preferred colors in spring were in the order of Pastels, Beige and Yellow. The preferred colors of upper garments in summer were in the order of White and pastels. for lower summer garments Pastels, White and Blue were favorites. In autumn, Beige was shown to be highly preferred, and in winter, the order of preferred colors was Black, Gray and Beige. 3. On of those individual factors showing the greatest difference was sex. 4. Those factors having the greatest impact on the selection of clothing color were the season and their preference color. 5. The in vogue color of men in their 20s was at a higher level than hat of women. The groups that had an upper college level education showed a significant difference in their choices thant hose who were highschool graduates and technical college student and graduates. The consideration of inteterest in color of clothes, holding clothes during new purchasing, body shape and skin color was higher for women than men. In buying and wearing accessaries, women tend to take into consideration the harmony with the garment, and there was shown a significant difference between highschool graduates and the groups above the level of college education.

• 복식
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• 제63권5호
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• pp.18-34
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• 2013

This paper examines the costumes of 18th century Joseon dynasty that appears in the writings of Lee Ok(李鈺, 1760~1815). The main characteristics that can be inferred about the clothing from his writings are as follows. 1) It suppose that the color of first grade(一品) official uniform was purple. The popular color for the bride's ceremonial dress was red. 2) It was likely that only bridesmaids or married women were allowed to wear Jokduri(ceremonial coronet). 3) White clothes were only preferred in Yeongnam-udo, whereas other regions mainly wore blue, which differs from the national preference for white clothes that was prevalent in the end of the Joseon dynasty. 4) Once cotton was harvested, it only took 5 days to convert it into cotton cloth and be sold on the market. Cotton cloth was one of the most important products during the latter half of the Joseon dynasty. It was common practice in markets to sell expensive costume materials as counterfeits or fungible goods with the intent to cheat. 5) The buddhist monk's hat is various that short cylinder form(短桶帽) and jade or gold headband button(玉圈 金圈) attached shape, etc. Consequently, Lee Ok's writing is a suitable reference for researching Joseon dynasty clothing, since it includes detailed and various descriptions of everyday clothing worn by strict noblemen, which is difficult to find elsewhere.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권1호
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• pp.99-111
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• 2012

This paper investigates the formative features and the historical meaning of the Korean dress collection held in the Horniman Museum in London. The Museum holds eighteen items of Korean dresses donated by Mrs. C. de J. Luxmore in 1948 and by Mrs. Bowra in 1953. Male dresses consist of white silk outer robe (durumagi), a pale violet silk waistcoat (jokki), a jade green silk jacket (jeogori), pale yellow silk trousers (baji), a pair of ankle bands (daenim), a cotton waistband (dae), a silk purse (jumeoni), a rattan under-vest (deungbaeja), a pair of rattan wristlets (deungtosi), a top hat (gat) and a skullcap (tanggeon). Female dresses comprise a jade green silk jacket (jeogori), an ivory silk skirt (chima), a light blue silk petticoat (sokchima), two kinds of white cotton trousers (sokbaji and soksokgot), a pair of silk wristlets (tosi) and a pair of padded socks (beoseon). A Korean dress collection of the Horniman Museum shows a set of ordinary dress items worn by a married couple in the 1930s and the 1940s. Of these items, a silk petticoat (sokchima) and a rattan under-vest (deungbaeja) can be highly evaluated as object resources in the history of Korean dress. The petticoat is a rare and valuable example that represents an early type of modern petticoat that has replaced a traditional petticoat (dansokgot). The rattan under-vest has square neckline and two tiny sleeves similar to a Western cap sleeve. This kind of under-vest is a transitional form shown between under-vest similar to the Korean waistcoat (baeja) and one similar to the Western waistcoat (jokki).

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.21-33
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• 2005

The main objective of this research was to understand the characteristics of identical color coordination through the analysis of modern female fashion color coordination as they appear in the 'Collections'. Data collection of 2026 was done through review of '$pr\hat{e}t-\grave{a}$-porter Collections' of four cities; Milan, London, New York, Paris. Lastly, statistical analysis of frequency and $X^2$-test and also qualitative interpretation of identical color coordination characteristics were completed. The main findings were; The color coordination of modern women's fashion produces a unified theme, or monochromatic harmony, through the use and coordination of identical colors. The clear contrast of tones portrays a strong image especially in achromatic color coordination, and through the use of texture variation, monochromatic color coordination becomes even more compelling. The tone variation, observed most often in monochromatic color coordination was the black and white contrast, which enhances the simplicity and clarity. Within chromatic color combinations, tone on tone color coordination was achieved by varying brightness. Furthermore, the observation of Faux Camaeu indicates that the coordination of different textures is used often in identical color coordination. While achromatic colors can lead to a hard and rough feeling, it also is compensated through the use of varying textures. In addition, adding variety of textures can add subtle interests to the simplicity of white. Lastly, in all four collections, the chromatic identical color coordination was found more frequently than the achromatic. In Paris, N.Y. & London, the chromatic identical coordination was used more often than chromatic. Milan showed most use of achromatic coordination. The use of the tones showed similar trends in all four collections, with contrasting tone being used most often, followed by similar and identical tones.

• Restorative Dentistry and Endodontics
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• 제39권3호
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• pp.201-209
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• 2014

Objectives: This study evaluated the solubility, dimensional alteration, pH, electrical conductivity, and radiopacity of root perforation sealer materials. Materials and Methods: For the pH test, the samples were immersed in distilled water for different periods of time. Then, the samples were retained in plastic recipients, and the electrical conductivity of the solution was measured. The solubility, dimensional alteration, and radiopacity properties were evaluated according to Specification No. 57 of the American National Standards Institute/American Dental Association (ANSI/ADA). Statistical analyses were carried out using analysis of variance (ANOVA) and Tukey's test at a significance level of 5%. When the sample distribution was not normal, a nonparametric ANOVA was performed with a Kruskal-Wallis test (${\alpha}$ = 0.05). Results: The results showed that white structural Portland cement (PC) had the highest solubility, while mineral trioxide aggregate (MTA)-based cements, ProRoot MTA (Dentsply-Tulsa Dental) and MTA BIO ($\hat{A}$ngelus Ind. Prod.), had the lowest values. MTA BIO showed the lowest dimensional alteration values and white PC presented the highest values. No differences among the tested materials were observed in the the pH and electrical conductivity analyses. Only the MTA-based cements met the ANSI/ADA recommendations regarding radiopacity, overcoming the three steps of the aluminum step wedge. Conclusions: On the basis of these results, we concluded that the values of solubility and dimensional alteration of the materials were in accordance with the ANSI/ADA specifications. PCs did not fulfill the ANSI/ADA requirements regarding radiopacity. No differences were observed among the materials with respect to the pH and electrical conductivity analyses.