• 복식
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• 제65권2호
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• pp.105-124
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• 2015

This research was started to study how the design identity of an overseas fashion house was formed, changed and connected. For the purpose of the study, Saint Laurent House was selected as the subject of the study, because it began as a couture house and launched the $pr\hat{e}t-\grave{a}-porter$ for the first time among the designer brands, and also contributed to the development of modern women's fashion. Literature survey on related books and papers was performed to study the Saint Laurent House. Then, fashion collection photos of the house from 1962 SS to 2014 SS were collected to analyze and compare the features of the designs. The photos were collected from related books, fashion magazines and internet sites. The results are as follows: The features of Yves Saint Laurent's early designs were contemporarily sensational with their couture tradition. His representative designs including Le Smoking, Pea Coat, Loose Fit Blouse, Safari Look, Jumpsuit, Ethnic Look and Art Look became the signature looks of the Saint Laurent House. His designs expressed the liberation of sex, multi-cultural sensitivity and the fusion of art and fashion. His successor, chief designer Tom Ford designed with strong sensitivity of his own. He dealt with Yves Saint Laurent's design themes and signature looks in sensual as well as trendy and sophisticated way. Stefano Pilati showed the Parisienne chic and elegance. He re-made the legacies of Yves Saint Laurent with his own design style using new materials or cutting technique. Hedi Slimane reinterpreted the signature looks of the house with his rock' n roll mood for young, modern women while reflecting the spirit of Yves Saint Laurent's early stage. In conclusion, the design identity of Saint Laurent House is not just a fixed one. By the subsequent chief designers, the signature items and design spirit of Yves Saint Laurent have been succeeded, reintroduced or changed to be trendy and to reflect the designers' design sensitivity. All of these make and maintain the design identity of the fashion house.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.283-295
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• 2011

This study deals with the interchange with art that is contained in the works of Yves Saint Laurent, and it is disclosed through his works that modern fashion is part of expressive art while pursuing creative function as a work of art. The study has been performed on the basis of the references, the pictures of his works and interviews posted in domestic and overseas fashion magazines such as Vogue, Fashion News, Mode & Mode, Gap, Collections, etc. Regarding the scope of this study, it specifically deals with works he created from 1958 until 2002, when he announced his last collection. The results of the study show that with respect to Post-Impressionism, his works were greatly affected by van Gogh(who had used colors as active media in depicting his internal mental state) which gave birth to gorgeous and handicraft-like 'Couture-style clothes'. With respects to Fauvism, the works of Matisse also had an impact on Yves Saint Laurent, who added a sense of fauvism in his works through the use of colors, motif, or full reproduction of images from paintings. We see the influence of cubism upon Laurent when we examine his works of 'clothes with artistic value,' which utilized applique, beaded decoration, patchwork, embroidered patterns, relief-like ornaments, etc. using motif or objet much as we see in the works of Picasso and Braque, artists who expressed a new dimension of the formative arts. Laurent's use of neoplasticism, or plainness of painting, demonstrates a new formative art on the three-dimensional human body by using the works of Mondrian, which consist of black lines and primary colors, although generally Laurent's 'neoplastic'works differed from the works of Mondrian by more actively utilizing the lines and colors when designing dress and its ornament. In addition, the paintings and poems of surrealism artists and poets were directly used in the clothes or their images were sometimes borrowed. In order to express respect toward the spirit of surrealism and its artists, the human body motifs such as lips and eyes(which were frequently used by the surrealism artists) were applied to embroidery, printing and beaded decoration. Finally, being inspired by such Pop artists as Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein and Tom Wesselman, Laurent further emphasized the aesthetic value of the popular consumer image in his own work, resulting in the wide recognition of the designs of Yves Saint Laurent as representing the new wave of the Pop Art school.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.163-175
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• 2010

This study is a part of the integrated investigation of the design of Yves Saint Laurent, and aims at examining the background of the appearance of art inspiration which the artistic quality and originality are particularly seen. And also, I would like to examine the source of the power that transcends periods, dealing with issues in the design. From the mid 1960 to 1970, Yves Saint Laurent who leaded the global fashion trend, displayed the Art Inspiration works with the innovation of fashion in Paris, rediscovery of the trends and colors in Modern Art, and background of Entourage and so forth. He brought in the various artistic genres to the fashion, and his Haute Couture collections which were created by the passion for the movie and theater art, expressed the freedom through his strong identity in the Modern Art & Culture and the atmosphere of that period. Eventually his works are reappeared transcending the generations as the fundamental power of Modernity, through the restricted line of his own, strong contrast of colors, and insight for the future.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.58-73
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to examine the characteristics of men's wear designs unveiled while Hedi Slimane worked for Dior Homme and Yves Saint Laurent. The study will analyze and focusing on the modernistic characteristics in order to discover the postmodernism trends in his works. The results of the research are as follows. First, Hedi Slimane's fashion style can be cited as grunge and punk due to the trend of expressing the subculture of postmodernism. The design features shown in Dior Homme were straight lines, leather, metallic materials and dark colors used to reinterpret a grungy punk style, romantic patterns, glossy materials, elastic leather, and bright colors were the salient features of Yves Saint Laurent. Second, the feature of cultural pluralism of postmodernism appeared as a type ethnic style. He presented this through the Third World images in the Dior Homme but Spanish matador images, Marrakech's images and North African images in the Yves Saint Laurent. Third, he feature of his style is metrosexual feminizing men's fashion and breaking up gender stereotypes. I-type and X-type silhouettes that emphasize the human body and feminine design motifs such as a skirt are dominated in Dior Homme, and he completed the metrosexual style by using materials, colors and patterns such as bright feminine pink, red, laces, fur, floral and leopard prints, as well as flagrantly expressing body contour.

• 발명특허
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• 제36권11호
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• pp.57-60
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• 2011

최근 Christian Louboutin사(社)는 Yves Saint Lauren사(社)에 구두 외부밑창에 빨간색을 사용하지 말 것을 요청했는데 Yves Saint Lauren사(社)가 이를 거절하자 빨간색 밑창에 대한 상표권에 기초해 뉴욕 남부지방법원에 가처분신청을 했다. 위 사례를 통해 패션산업에서 색채는 미를 표현하고 경쟁하기 위한 필수요소인데, 경쟁자에게 색채 사용을 금지할 수 있는 것인지, 패션산업에서 단색의 색채가 상표로 등록될 수 있는 것인지, 색채상표의 등록요건은 무엇인지를 검토하고자 한다.

• 커뮤니케이션디자인학연구
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• 제64권
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• pp.64-75
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• 2018

고가의 의류, 가방, 신발 등의 시장을 장악해온 명품 패션브랜드들이 최근 본격적으로 화장품 시장에 뛰어드는 행보를 보이고 있다. 본 연구는 명품 패션브랜드가 화장품브랜드로 확장을 진행하면서 자사의 브랜드 정체성을 화장품브랜드에 어떻게 표출하고 있는지, 화장품 패키지 디자인의 조형적 기호를 분석하고 준상징적 체계를 도출하는 시각적 정체성 분석 방식을 통해 살펴보고자 하였다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 최근 화장품브랜드로 명성이 높은 입생로랑과 아르마니 같은 패션 명품브랜드의 대표적 인기 제품군인 쿠션 팩트와 립틴트의 패키지 디자인의 시각기호학적 분석을 시도하였다. 연구분석 결과, 본 연구는 입생로랑과 아르마니 패키지의 조형적 요소가 표출하는 의미론적 자질들을 파악하였으며, 이 자질들이 입생로랑이 지향하는 '고전주의'적 정체성과 아르마니가 지향하는 '바로크'적 정체성의 추구를 드러내는 시각기호로서 활용되고 있음을 발견하였다. 이 연구결과를 토대로 본 연구는 입생로랑의 경우 패션브랜드로서의 브랜드 정체성을 화장품 브랜드의 시각적 정체성에 전이하지 못하고 있는 반면, 아르마니는 패션브랜드로서의 브랜드 정체성을 화장품 브랜드의 시각적 정체성에 효과적으로 전이하는 시각커뮤니케이션 전략을 활용하고 있음을 파악하였다. 이와 같은 두 브랜드의 서로 다른 결과를 통해 본 연구는 명품 패션브랜드들은 물론 국내 패션브랜드들도 화장품 시장으로 영역을 확장하는 과정에서 기존의 브랜드 정체성을 잘 파악하고, 이를 화장품 브랜드의 커뮤니케이션 전략에도 효과적으로 활용하고 있는지를 검토해봐야 할 필요가 있음을 제시하였다.

• 복식
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• 제53권2호
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• pp.57-70
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• 2003

Modern Haute Couture represents artistic views through its image. symbol, and originality. Haute Couture's original art has been kept as a design technics which is the fusion of timely, original Maison's concept, plastic beauty as designer's personality. Christian Dior's maison continued by Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferr'e and John Galliano who emphasize elegant image which has avant-garde trends came from post modernism. Christian Dior Haute Couture's design which can be symbolized by the feature of timely variation and new feeling of continuing designers has the following originalities. 1. Christian Dior Haute Couture's design has been affected by the timely art-trends. 2. Christian Dior Haute Couture's design concept is represented as Nobly Chic Elegance. Feminine Elegance. Sophisticately Chic Elegance, Fantastically humourous Elegance therfore, the traditional concept of Elegance are maintained. 3. Christian Dior Haute Couture's design technic not only emphasizes the details of collars and up side of clothes or trimming but also persuits the total beauty of balanceness with the harmony of the evenness between other factors.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제35권6호
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• pp.1-13
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• 1997

Hipp8ie style was introduced in 1960s when young generation's movement against industrial society and mass culture was spread. Its value was to go back to "Real and Pure Nature". Hippie originated from "Human Be-in" which was on-violent revolution held in sanfrancisco. American Hippie style was represented through freedom and love based on drug and psychedelic culture which were created by the young generation who were against traditional esthetic value as well as the moral and material value. However, Hippie style was represented differently in France. The privilege classes such as artists who were interested in surrealism, art negro and primitive culture, the intelligentsia like Montparnass in Paris, accepted Hippie style faster than ordinary people did. therefor, Hippie style in france was represented as an esthetic mode not a symbol of anti-culture and anti-policy. The general public imitated the style of the privileged classes and coordinated their style according to their personality without any standard such as blue jeans, ethnic, psychedelic, mini, mods, beatnik, etc. Yves Saint Laurent who was influenced by hippies led the mode of Paris to introduce "Africa", "Saharienne", "Pathwork". therefore, in 1960's fashion in Paris, everything was possible because of too many changes in fashion and refusal of accepting vogue.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.89-102
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• 2004

Modern society is age of sports just as health and leisure became dominant concern, which has caused the fixation and development to sports wear considered as fashion for everyday dress. This paper focused on the development process and aesthetic characteristics of knit design expressed in the 20th century sports wear. The importance and direction of knit design in modern sports wear is expected. Style, items, fabrics, colors, details and top designers were analyzed in sports wear from the 1910' s to 1990' s. Sports wear can be categorized into two of the active sports wear and spectator sports wear. Since disappearance of division between ordinary wear and sports fashion in the 1970' s, the functional wear of leggings, cycle shorts, exercise clothes, leotard, and leg warmer appeared. Vicennial developments of synthetic fibers and new fabrics have caused the great changes in knit design. Colors were vivid in the 1950' s, metallic in the 1970' s and neon in the 1990' s. Sportive sense was expressed by various details. The dominant knit designers who expressed aesthetic characteristics to sports wear were Coco Chanel, Claire McCardell, Balenciaga, Andre Courrege, Pierre Cardin, Yves Saint-Laurent, Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan, and Giogio Armani.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.197-206
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• 1996

We can see the relationship between Fashion creation and Art through the characteristic of clothings at Fashion Collections such as the round, abstractive motive, optical effect, symetric line, etc. This relationship between Fashion creation and Art brings the affective image and the aesthetic shock to open the door to imagination. Art-related people such as artist, fashion designer share the creativeness, new vision and artistic fever. We can see the link and co- work between art and fashion creation all over the 20th centary. Specially it reached its peak in 1960s when Paco Rabanne, Andra Curreges, Pierre Cardin and Yves Saint-Laurent introduced their works. This study includes not only the influence of the art but also the relationship between the art and fashion creation to analyze the way and the reason of the influence of the art in terms of the form, technique, material and process. Doing this, 1 try to ask and answer the question "through what form and at what situation fashion creation can be considered as an art." The study reaches the conclusion that fashion designer is the creator, technician and transferer if the the art.e the art.