• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.267-272
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• 2003

Tactel(Nylon66) union fabrics were woven with the specification of 70d/34f nylon as warp for sport wear jacket. Weft yarn has three types; 100% cotton yarn, nylon core-spun yarn and nylon-polyurethane covering yarn as weft. Fabric structers were plain, twill and satin weave structure with the air jet loom. The mechanical properties of 8 fabrics were measured with KES-F and primary Hand Values and Total Hand Values were calculated. The results of the study were as follows: 1) There was little difference among LTs of N/CM fabric groups. RT of the fabrics with CM100's was bigger than that of fabrics with CM80's, resulting that the fabrics with CM100's have better formability. In terms of weaving structure, twill fabrics have shape deformation. 2) In comparison of RTs with weft yarn type, RT of N-PU covering yarn was the highest, followed by Nylon core-spun yarn and cotton yarn. Thus, the fabric with N-PU covering yarn has better stability of shape deformation. 3) Stretch yarn could express an excellent silhouette formation and twill and satin structures were better structure to make curvature on human form. 4) 2HG/G value of nylon core-spun fabrics was larger than that of N/C fabrics, but the silhouette formation of N/C fabrics was excellent. 5) The RC of N/PU was the highest, followed by N/P, and N/CM. 6) Koski of N/PU fabrics was the highest, Numeri of N/PU and N/Co-I were relatively higher than the others. THVs of N/CM-IV and N/CO-II were lower than the others, resulting that, twill structure was better than plain structure for a sport wear uses.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제25권1호
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• pp.62-71
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• 2023

Recently, interest in natural fabric materials that are not harmful has increased, and hemp is being studied as a new eco-friendly product. This study produced hemp fabric with improved flexibility and increased antibacterial properties by blending it with Hanji yarn. Various weaving methods were proposed to overcome the rough physical properties of hemp, and the functions of the developed products were evaluated through antibacterial tests. The mixing ratios of hemp and Hanji yarns was 50% hemp: 50% Hanji weft, 70% hemp: 30% Hanji weft, 30% hemp: 70% Hanji weft, and 100% hemp. Overall, the higher the ratio of Hanji yarn, the higher the fastness property, and the higher the ratio of hemp yarn, the higher the flexibility of the fabric, which was evaluated to be comfortable to wear. The 99.9% antibacterial properties of hemp products were considered to contribute to maintaining the health of modern people. Owing to its high intensity and high air permeability, it is considered highly usable in the production of children's clothing with a lot of activity. It was evaluated as an advantage that the disadvantage of hemp, which was limited as a material for summer clothing, was broadened to use for all seasons due to the fusion of Hanji. Otherwise, low consumer satisfaction as an outdoor wear is a disadvantage because hemp products had low elasticity and wrinkles.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.101-105
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• 2005

This study surveys the warp and weft tension differences between projectile and air-jet looms and analyses the mechanical properties of worsted fabrics for garment with relation of these loom characteristics using KES-FB system. The paper is divided by two parts. In the 1st paper, the worsted fabric is woven as 5 harness satin weave using 1/40 Nm sirofil worsted warp yarn and 1/30 Nm worsted weft yarn by projectile(Sulzer) and air-jet looms(Picanol PAT and OMNI), respectively. The weavability is also analysed by measuring warp tension variation according to the warp position and weft tension of 3 kinds of looms. The relationship between shed amount and the warp tension is surveyed, and the relationship between end breaks and warp and weft tensions is also discussed.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.31-38
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• 2006

Silk fabrics are very popular and widely used because of their elegant appearance. However, silk fabrics generally have easy wrinkle, and do not stretch and deform permanently after machine washing. Then the stretched properties of silk fabrics are important for the application of industrial textile materials such as formal and sports wear. Thus, this research surveys the covering, weaving and degumming conditions for stretched silk fabrics. As a result, yarn breaking stress was reduced with increasing spindle speed, and the yarn twists were optimized under the covering condition of polyurethane/silk with PVA pretreatment. In addition, the shrinkage of the silk fabrics treated with star degumming process was reduced by continuous NaOH degumming process. The fabrics showed the fabric physical properties with optimum stretched properties and evenness surfaces.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제23권3호
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• pp.219-226
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• 2011

Recently, study of functional clothing for vital sensing is focused on improving conductivity and decreasing resistance, in order to enhance the electrocardiogram(ECG) sensing accuracy and obtained stable environmental durability on operation condition. In this study, four ECG fabrics that having different componnt yarns and weaving structures were produced to analyze their environmental durabilities and electric properties under general operation conditions including different physical and chemical stimulation. For outstanding electric properties and physical properties, the optimized ECG sensing fabric should consist of a fabric of 2 up 3 down twill structure containing 210de silver-coated conductive yarns and polyester yarn in warp and weft directions respectively. The selected fabric has $0.11{\Omega}$ which is relative lower resistance than otherwisely produced fabrics under ECG measurement condition. And it has 7% stable resistance changes under 25% strain and repeated strain.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제17권5호
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• pp.45-52
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• 2005

The optimum fabric design plan is recently needed with the relevant fabric shrinkage in dyeing and finishing processes for the various sensible fabrics for garment. For responding this need, the difference of fabric design plan such as fabric density, yarn count and finishing shrinkage has to be surveyed with weaving looms such as water jet, air-jet and rapier looms, and also has to be analysed with weave pattern such as plain, twill and satin according to the fabric manufacturers. Therefore, in this study, 420 polyester weave pattern sheets are collected from 5 fabric manufacturers, and the weave density coefficients of these fabrics are calculated using yarn count, fabric density and 1 repeat weave pattern. These weave density coefficients are analysed according to the fabric manufacturers, weaving looms and various weave patterns. And also the weave density coefficients of 420 polyester fabrics are analysed with finishing shrinkage according to the fabric manufacturers and various weave patterns such as plain, twill and satin fabrics.

• 한국고분자학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국고분자학회 2006년도 IUPAC International Symposium on Advanced Polymers for Emerging Technologies
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• pp.376-376
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• 2006

The process of weaving fabrics with high levels of tension and abrasion can cause damage to the yarn threads. To protect threadlines during the process, a protective polymer is coated on the surface of the yarns prior to weaving. This application process is known as slashing. The current slashing system is incompatible with today's demand activated manufacturing strategies. Methods of improving the uniformity of polymer coating application were studied, and several applicators were designed and evaluated. Prewetting of the threadlines before coating application was shown to greatly improve coating uniformity. The objective of the research is to design a single-end slashing process that is environmentally friendly and will improve productivity and flexibility.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제39권5호
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• pp.778-788
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• 2015

This study evaluated the characteristics and sensibility of work clothes materials developed that took into account the work environment of major industrial settings, for which a selection was made according to spring/autumn use and winter use. The physical properties of the existing and test weaving of the work clothes materials were compared after the test weaving of work clothes materials through material design, which altered the yarn count, composition, weave and density of material. To evaluate sensibility of work clothes materials subjectively, seven ranks' semantic differential scale questions were developed with polar adjective pairs. The test weaving of work clothes materials showed improved performance (such as tensile strength, dimensional change, water vapor permeability, and color fastness) compared to the existing materials. The common factor analysis indicated that the explanatory power of the cumulative variance for the spring/autumn use and winter use was 71.19% and 69.53%, respectively.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.23-32
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• 2005

This study attempts to address the development processing of yarn-dyeing jacquard design by using jacquard textile design professional CAD system to create high valued worth products. To carry out this purpose, two kinds of necktie samples were designed and each of them was different in three types of weaving method. The results are as follows; All over type is appropriate when the motive's size is small. And the work can be finished within short time and design can be illustrated by basic jacquard system. However, one point type can represent rather big and audacious motive but it needs lots of working hours and jacquard system. Though the motives are identical, showed many changes in cubicle representation according to weaving methods and the structure. To express simple and modest design, single fabric woven is suitable and in the need of colorful and technical design, expressing by double weft cloths and triple weft cloths rather than single fabric woven are better to give creativity and colorfulness. For the production of jacquard design, cad system using ability is important but the understanding and study of the whole process of weaving development should be made.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2013

This study analyzed the characteristics of Korean traditional plain weave excavated from Sang-go period to Joseon Dynasty. To do this, this study classified the Korean traditional plain weave into fiber types(cotton, hemp & ramie, plain weaved silk), analyzed and compared the thickness, twist type of yarns and density by times. First, in characteristics of cotton, the average and maximum density of Joseon Dynasty were higher than those of Goryeo, twist type was mainly s-twist and the density of warp was higher than that of weft. Second, the maximum density of hemp & ramie was found in era of Three Kingdoms of Korea. In common characteristics of hemp & ramie, twist type was mainly s-twist(sometimes non-twist) to the Three Kingdoms of Korea and was changed into non-twist from the Goryeo. The density of warp was higher than that of weft in common. Generally, the average density of ramie was higher than that of hemp. Third, in the characteristics of plain weaved silk, twist type was mainly non-twist(sometimes s and z-twist) from Sang-go period to Joseon Dynasty. Warp-faced ribbed tabby was excavated in Goryeo, the average density of warp-faced ribbed tabby was higher than that of other fiber types plain weave. Generally, in all fiber types, the density of warp was higher than that of weft.