• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.3 s.102
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• pp.42-56
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to review the literatures and the wall paintings of the ancient tombs of Koguryo in an effort to try to understand the characteristics of the culture of dyeing in Koguryo. The research findings follow: 1. The colors that were in vogue in Koguryo are five cardinal colors (red, blue, white, black, and yellow) and compound colors, like purple and green. Those colors were used in some or all parts of the clothing and even on some parts of the body. 2. Some clothing of Koguryo as shown in the wall paintings were made with a single and solid color by dip dyeing method. But the majority of the clothing had a variety of patterns. Among the patterns, the geometrical dot pattern took the majority. 3. The dyeing techniques used in Koguryo were printing, yarn dyeing, embroidery, wax resist dyeing, drawing and painting. The development of yarn dyeing method, weaving with silk-threads dyed in various colors, enabled to produce Geum fabrics, which were used for the upper classes' clothing. 4. The esthetic features represented in the colors of Koguryo include the beauty of contrast coloring, preference for red, preference for geometrical patterns, and the harmony of yin and yang.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.27-39
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• 1976

In this study several kinds of spun silk yarn-synthetic filament compounded yarn was manufactured, and several fabrics woven from above mentioned silk compound yarn for evaluation of serviceability as clothing materials. The following results were obtained: 1. Degumming agents are in the order of sodium silicate, sodium hydroxide, sodium carbornate, soap and water. 2. When the concentration of sodium hydroxide is exceeded 3%, degradation of floss silk property is resulted because of excessive dissolving out of silk protein. 3. Degumming effect is much improved by concentration of degumming agent and less by its treating time. 4. Simultaneous application of more the 2 kinds of degumming agent is desirable for improvement of floss silk. 5. Application of natural organic acid brings very good results in keeping original scooping and color of the silk. 6. Load and elongation it increased by compound with synthetic filament yarn. 7. Even the evenness of compound yarn is largely dependent on the quality of floss silk and extent of degumming, the C.V.% of silk compound yarn in the experiment was 8-12%. 8. Single bath dyeing technique was impossible for their cloth, and dyeing was performed in 2 bath system separately for silk and synthetic fiber. 9. Shrinkage ratio due to the dyeing of fabric was 23% in case of polyester and spun silk fabric. 10. The final woven cloth can be applicable to (a) Blouse in care of thin cloth (compound silk fabric) (b) Korean costume for women in case of thick cloth. (compound hand spun silk fabric)

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.51-57
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• 2002

In the prior study, the mechanical properties and the dyeability of the easily dyeable polyester grim(EDY) were investigated. In this study, to interpret the dyeing behavior of EDY with C. I. Disperse Violet 1, the thermodynamic parameters of dyeing, such as the standard affinity, the heat of dyeing(the enthalpy change), the entropy change, the diffusion coefficient, and the activation energy of diffusion, were obtained from adsorption isotherms and dyeing rate at various temperatures and compared to these of regular polyester (REG-PET). The heat of dyeing(the enthalpy change) and the entropy change for EDY showed smaller negative values than those for REG-PET. This means that the dye molecules in the EDY are combined more loosely than in the REG-PET and that is due to the flexibility of polymer chains of EDY. The diffusion coefficients of C. I. Disperse Violet 1 into the EDY were larger than those for REG-PET, and the activation energy of diffusion on EDY was smaller than that on REG-PET.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.47-57
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• 2011

As the development of denim products using new differentiated materials plays an important role regardless of their target age groups, there is an increasing need for the development of premium denim designs for senior women using various materials. As part of the strategy to develop such a design for the senior generation, a market survey was performed regarding commercially available premium denim products in the market, and the current trends in the denim market were researched and analyzed to make use of the results in design development. In addition, a differentiated material, hybrid yarn using conjugated dyeing (HYCD) was applied to use several washing techniques capable of highlighting the unique features of denim clothing. The design of four items including a jacket, vest, capri pants and long pants were suggested. These items were differentiated from other products by emphasizing their details such as stitching and pockets. In light of the current consumer trend to select denim jeans on the basis of their fashion-ability (e.g., silhouette or color) rather than practicality or price, it is considered meaningful to develop high value added, premium jean products for the senior generation using diverse materials and details. At the same time, performing further studies designed to demonstrate the stability and reliability of the developed products through consumers' comparative assessment is required.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.197-206
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to dye hanji/cotton fabrics using persimmon juice and to investigate the change in the hand fabrics. Using the Kawabata Evaluation System, we have examined the changes in the physical properties, primary hand value and total hand value. The dynamic characteristics of hanji/cotton fabrics have been explored by tensile, shear, bending, compression, surface properties, thickness and weight. As a result, it can be seen that the linearity of load-extension and tensile resilience are increased with the increase of the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice and tensile energy is decreased in the same condition. These behaviors are shown in the compression properties. Although the mechanism of persimmon juice dyeing has been widely discussed, it means that the fabrics dyed with persimmon juice become stiffened and the elasticity is increased with the introduction of persimmon on the fabrics studied. Bending rigidity and hysteresis of the bending moment are increased with the increase of the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice. Also, Geometrical roughness, expressed in SMD is increased with increasing the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice, compared with as-received. It indicates that these results are due to the geometric structure of hanji yarn and the introduction of persimmon juice on the fabrics studied. The fullness and softness with the soft feeing are increased a little due to the tannin component of persimmon juice introduced on the fiber surface.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.11a
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• pp.56-56
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• 2011

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.147-151
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• 1994

This study was carried out investigate the characteristics of Habutae and Chiffon woven with silk and polyester(S/P) compound yarn. The S/P compound yarn could be produced by the automatic reeling machine with attachment of air jetting device, polyester yarn guider and tension control apparatus. The surface structure, tensile property and dyeing fastness of S/P compound fabric were examined for the fabric properties. Electron microscopy revealed that most part of S/P compound yarn was well interlaced and some silk part of compound yarn were hidden by polyester on an examination of surface of chiffon fabric. By the one bath and two step dyeing of disperse and acidic dyes, the colour fastness of S/P compound fabrics were 4 grade above. The tenacity and initial modulus of the finished S/P compound fabric were lower than those of grey and degummed fabrics, but reversed in elongation.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.35-49
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• 2015

This paper investigated optimum process conditions of coating yarn for awning fabric. For this purpose, the simulation for processability and yarn quality using SPSS statistics package was carried out, and PP/TPO and PET/PVC coating yarns specimens were made with variation of extruder temperature and feed speed of core yarn on the yarn coating machine for examining simulation result. It was revealed that optimum coating conditions of PP/TPO 1000d coating yarn were extruder temperature $150^{\circ}C$, and core yarn feed speed 400~500m/min. Mechanical property and thermal shrinkage of PP/TPO coating yarn made at this conditions were best and core evenness rates of these coating yarns by yarn compression tester were also superior, which was certified by SEM photograph. In addition, these experimental results were coincided with simulation results. It was found that, in PET/PVC coating yarn, yarn physical properties between 1500d and 1200d coated yarns were not shown any difference, and core evenness rates of these coating yarns were superior. It revealed and concluded that these simulated coating conditions are applicable to production field.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.231-238
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• 2017

There are many kinds of elements and processes for the development of high quality bedding products like fiber, high-temperature heat treatment, dyeing process, tenter drying with softening agent and multiple final finishing. Especially we examined the mechanical characteristic properties of fabrics according to different yarn types. The critical physical properties of the yarn consisting the pile knitted fabrics were obtained for the development of the hi-grade bedding items. The material property and the exhaustion behaviour of the developed pile knitted fabrics composing of different yarns were measured and observed. The physical properties of the developed fabric were evaluated through the material property analysis of the yarn, the physical nature of the pile knitted fabrics and the data of the exhaustion performance; tensile strength, tensile elongation, tearing strength, cross section of yarn types, dyeing properties etc. And then high-class of bedding items were knitted using the double raschel machine to make the pile knitted fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.2 s.150
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• pp.255-265
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to examine the dyeing properties of four kinds of composite yams that were twisted in different processes. The composite yarns consist of acetate and functional polyester in ratio of 70 : 30. The composite yams were dyed at 100$^{circ}C$ and 125$^{circ}C$ using three types of dyes, disperse dyes for acetate fiber, PET fiber and PET-acetate blended fiber, in the three primary colors. The exhaustion($\%$) and K/S value were observed for each case. Also the effects of four different twisting processes to dyeing properties and physical properties were examined. Regardless of twisting methods, the composite yarns that were dyed at 125$^{circ}C$ had higher exhaustion($\%$) than those were dyed at 100$^{circ}C$ with all three types of dyes; However, tendency of the K/S value after reduction cleaning process was measured at 100$^{circ}C$ and the value measured 125$^{circ}C$ had a great difference with disperse dyes for acetate and dyes for PET. The difference of the K/S values of composite yarns, when dyed at 100$^{circ}C$ and 125$^{circ}C$ with disperse dyes for PET-acetate blended fiber, was almost negligible. According to twisting methods K/S values were in the following order: AP1 > AP3 > AP4> AP2. This means that AP1, treated at 220$^{circ}C$, had the highest K/S value and K/S value becomes higher as the yam is higher twisted and becomes lower as lower twisted. On the other hand, the dry shrinkage and wet shrinkage showed low shrinkage rate when the twist was high and steam setting temperature was high.