• Title/Summary/Keyword: Woven-Design

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Characteristics of the Excavated Silk Fabrics of Chosun Period (조선시대 출토 견직물의 특성)

  • 장현주
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.10 no.5
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    • pp.532-541
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    • 2002
  • An empirical review on silk fabrics of the Chosun period showed that they varied in kind and design according to their uses. Thus the purpose of this study is to classify the fabrics into excavated and temple fabrics according to their uses and collected places and then to examine characteristics of each type. Excavated fabrics were most accounted for by tabby fabric, followed by satin, twill, leno and gauze and union cloth. Tabby fabric was most used throughout the Chosun period, followed by satin. This is supported by many literary records. Concerning excavated dresses of the same period, tabby fabric, especially Ju was the main material, followed by satin. Leno and gauze fabric was much less used than in the Koryo period. Among excavated dresses surveyed in this study, none was made of compound woven fabrics such as Brocade. Other excavation reports said that Brocade had been used for a cuff of coat in few cases, if any. Tabby fabric was widely used for both the right side and lining while twill and satin fabrics were mainly adapted to weave the right side because they had luster higher than the former, smooth sense of touching and unique designs.

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Historical Perspective of Calico Printing Pattern (캘리코 프린팅 패턴에 관한 역사적 고찰)

  • 구희경
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.5 no.3
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    • pp.89-97
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    • 2003
  • This study is to review the development of calico printing pattern design for fabric through historical perspective. Calico is a cotton cloth named from Calicut, a city of India. It was first brought to England by the East India company in 1621. Although the name is generally given and plain white cotton cloth, and in America it is applied to small-scale printed cottons, today it applies to indian cotton cloth, coarse or fine, woven with colored geometrical large-scale and small-scale patterns, painted or printed. Therefore this paper proposes the classification and feature extraction of calico printing pattern from the early of 16th century to 21th century. The results of this study can be effectively applied to develop competitive calico pattern design in domestic cotton textile industry.

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A Study of Design in Rank Badges for Old Chinese Military and Civil Officials

  • Park, Kyoung-Sook
    • Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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    • 2003.10a
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    • pp.34-34
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    • 2003
  • This report is a study of designs embroidered in rank badges of military and civil officials' uniform in old China. Rank badges, or Bo(補) in Chinese, which are attached to officials' uniform, are embroidered designs on the breast and the back for people to easily discern between military and civil officials as well as between higher ranking and lower ranking officials. Bo(補) was used for various social stratum including king, queen, king's brothers, prince, and princess. This study, however, is focused on design of Bo(補) attached to the uniform of military and civil officials. This study first started with the origin of Bo(補) design, woven symbols in patches on the breast and the back of Gibsa(集史)'s uniform during the Yuan(元) dynasty. Lastly, this study reviewed and analyzed design of Bo(補) for military and civil officials during the Ming(明) and Qing(淸) dynasties.

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An Optimal Design of Sandwich Panels with Wire-woven Bulk Kagome Cores (와이어 직조 카고메 다공질 금속을 심재로 갖는 샌드위치 판재의 최적 설계)

  • Lee, Yong-Hyun;Kang, Ki-Ju
    • Transactions of the Korean Society of Mechanical Engineers A
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    • v.32 no.9
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    • pp.782-787
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    • 2008
  • First, the effect of the geometry such as the curved shape of the struts composing the truss structure of WBK is elaborated. Then, analytic solutions for the material properties of WBK and the maximum loads of a WBK-cored sandwich panel under bending are derived. A design optimization with the face sheet thickness and the core height selected as the design variables is presented for given slenderness ratios of the WBK core. Unless the face sheet thickness is limited, the optimal design to give the maximum load per weight is always found at a confluence of three failure modes, namely, face sheet yielding, indentation plastic, and core shear modeB plastic.

Assessment of Wicking and Fast Dry Properties According to Moisture Transport Measurement Method of Knit and Woven Fabrics for Garment (의류소재용 직·편물의 수분이동 특성 측정 방법에 따른 흡한속건성 평가)

  • Kim, Hyun-ah;Kim, Seung-jin
    • Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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    • v.20 no.2
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    • pp.117-126
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    • 2017
  • In this study, moisture transport characteristics for the woven and knitted fabrics made of 8 kinds of fiber materials using MMT (moisture management tester) were measured and discussed with the Bireck bt MMT and water evaporating rate (WER) measuring methods, which are vertical moisture transport methods. In addition, the drying property by MMT of the eight kinds of specimens was compared and discussed with the results measured by the vertical drying measurement. MMT experimental result which is horizental moisture transport appeared to be similar to the result of the Bireck method, which is the vertical moisture transport experiment. Absortion time measured from drip method of the fabrics made of the bamboo, linen, and cotton/nylon composite fabrics was short and thus they showed best wicking property, which was attributed to the low contact angle on the fabric surface and high porosity of the fabrics due to the staple yarn structure composed of the hydrophilic staple fibers. In drying property of the fabric specimens by MMT, maximum absorption radius of the dry-zone knit and bamboo woven fabrics were the highest and they showed the best drying property, which was a little different result compared with vertical drying measurement method. Half time of the drying rate in the MMT method was highly correlated with the fabric thickness and saturated moisture absortion rate and their regression coefficients were 0.9 and 0.88, respectively. This means that the knitted and woven fabric design technology for retaining good wicking and drying properties of the fabrics with thin fabric thickness is very important for obtaining high functional wear comfort fabrics. In addition, wicking and drying properties of the fabrics made of different fiber materials and with different yarns and fabric structures showed different results according to the measuring methods.

A Study on the Flat Woven Textile Design used of the Jacquard Fabric Simulation in Textile Design CAD - Focused on the Abstract Image of Textile Design in Interior Fabric Design - (텍스타일 CAD의 직물 시뮬레이션을 활용한 자카드 직물디자인 연구 - 꽃의 추상적 이미지를 응용한 인테리어 직물디자인을 중심으로 -)

  • Song, Ha-Young
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.9 no.2
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    • pp.49-57
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    • 2007
  • The purpose of this study was to research the efficient tool of the exclusive fabric simulation in Jacquard Textile CAD system. For performing this design study, it designed the surface design of the abstract images of flowers through EAT Designscope CAD system and simulated the interior fabric. To merchandise the fashion items and see the visual image, these fabric simulations was effected by two or three-dimension modeling through EAT designscope, YongWoo CNI, Alias and so on. The result of this study can be summarized as follows. Before the step of weaving the samples from the surface design works, jacquard fabric design can be done very efficiently to apply the design step of the fabric simulation in CAD(Computer Aided Design). As the usage of the simulation tool in CAD system, jacquard design can be easily feed-back to modify for the right fabrics and produced the various designs in the short running time very efficiently. Therefore, this jacquard design system ultimately can be saved cost and developed the higher value-added goods in more response to consumer demands.

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A Comparative Study on the Subjective Fabric Hand According to Gender for Winter Sleepwear Fabrics

  • Kweon, Soo-Ae;Lee, Eun-Kyung;Park, Jong-Myoung
    • Fibers and Polymers
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    • v.5 no.1
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    • pp.6-11
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    • 2004
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze the subjective fabric hand of sleepwear fabrics, and to assist in developing sleepwear fabrics that offer maximum comfort in wearing sensation. In general, the respondents noted that sleepwear fabrics made with polyester had better tactile sensation than those made with cotton, while satin weave fabrics felt better than plain weave fabrics. As regards the difference in fabric hand according to gender, female students responded with more receptiveness and sensitivity than male students in the category of woven fabric evaluation. As regards the same textile materials, the evaluations of female students and male students differed in fabric hand descriptors, particularly for the evaluation on cotton fabrics. Male students responded that both plain weave fabrics and satin weave fabrics were stiff while female students replied that satin weave fabrics had better tactile sensation.

Evaluation of Tubular Type Non-woven Fabric Filter for Solid-liquid Separation in Activated Sludge Reactor (활성슬러지조내 부직포 여재 관형필터의 고액분리 특성 평가)

  • Seo, Gyu-Tae;Lee, Teak-Soon;Park, Young-Mi
    • Journal of Korean Society of Environmental Engineers
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    • v.30 no.2
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    • pp.234-238
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    • 2008
  • Coarse pore filter could be an alternative of membrane for solid-liquid separation in an activated sludge reactor because of inexpensive cost of the filter material and high flux at low filtration pressure. However such filter module has much less specific filtration area compared to the membrane. Therefore a certain effort is required to increase the specific filtration area in the module design of such coarse pore filter for solid-liquid separation in an activated sludge reactor. In this study, tubular type coarse pore filter was designed at various diameter and configuration. The filtration performance was investigated to separate solid in the activated sludge reactor for domestic wastewater treatment. Tubular type coarse pore filter module could be successfully applicable to solid separation in the activated sludge reactor. The design parameters were the tube diameter of 10mm and vertical installation. Smaller diameter of the tube caused faster increase of the filtration pressure because of the hydraulic head loss in the tube channel.

Development of Prototype of Knit Slacks for Middle-aged Women (중년 여성의 니트 슬랙스 기본 원형 개발)

  • Lee, Jung-Jin
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.19 no.4
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    • pp.153-167
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    • 2015
  • This paper proposes knit slacks patterns by lower body shape of middle-aged women. In addition, this paper aims to propose a design method for a prototype of nice knit slacks using the properties of knitwear. To select basic woven slack patterns which would be used in designing prototype of knit slacks for middle-aged women, two industrial slack patterns and two educational slack patterns were collected, and lab coats were prefabricated using muslin. Then, a shape test was performed by an evaluation board which consisted of eight experts who majored in Clothing Construction. Using blended yarn (1/17's) with 64% wool, 23% rayon and 13% nylon, 12G knit slacks in plain stitch were made. In terms of waist circumference of knit slacks, the front and the back were set to W/4+1+2(D) and W/4-1+2(D), respectively, with 1cm of difference using waist circumference (Omphalion) to cover the abdominal circumference. To make the front-back width of the side line even, the front waist circumference was increased by 1cm. The ease of hip circumference was set to 4cm in total with H/4+1+0.8 in front and H/4+1-0.8 in the back (0.8cm in difference). Crotch length was set by adding 3cm (width of waist belt) after deducting crotch height from waist height (Omphalion). The center front angle was shifted by 1cm while the center back angle was shifted from the center front to the side line by 5cm.

Research on the Actual Condition of Shape and Make-up of Peanut-Shaped Cloth Diaper for Baby on Market (시판중인 유아용 땅콩기저귀의 형태와 구성에 관한 실태조사)

  • Lee, Jung-Soon;Han, Gyung-Hee;Koo, Mi-Ran
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.15 no.4
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    • pp.122-134
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    • 2011
  • The peanut-shaped cloth diaper has cut uncomfortable crotch region off the square-shaped cloth diaper into a peanut-shape, and finished the edge by bias with multi-layers of fabric. This study has the purpose on providing the basic data for designing the peanut-shaped cloth diaper. For this purpose, the peanut-shaped cloth diapers on market were collected and analyzed by their shape and size, and also the patterns and differences in making were compared. 26 products from 17 brands were collected as samples. The analysis factors are the shape and size of the peanut-shaped cloth diaper, and characteristics and patterns in making. Among the samples, only 3 diapers were straight-shaped; the rest of them were peanut-shaped. The size difference between the big and small peanut-shaped cloth diapers was very large; the total length of the small one was 36.5cm-39cm which was very common, and the total length of the big one was more than 44cm. All diapers had longer width in the back than the front. The width of the front and back was different for each sample, therefore, it seemed to have some difficulties to set the standard. The peanut-shaped cloth diaper had different make-up depending on its characteristics including. absorbance, washing and drying. It was usually made by cotton woven of diamond jacquard or knit, and finished the edge by woven bias or knit bias. The peanut-shaped cloth diapers were various including a sheet of diaper, two sheets of diapers fixed with velcro, three sheets of diapers, and etc. For the patterns of the diapers, only two samples out of all had three dimensional shape, and the rest were produced using flat shape. There were no distinction between the diapers of girls and boys. Therefore, it is necessary to make the product based on scientific data about the peanut-shaped cloth diaper.