• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.766-777
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• 2012

The 13 genre paintings by Junkeun Kim in the book "Korean Games(by Stewart Culin 1858~1929)" were used to study the late $19^{th}$ century's basic costumes and Games style in Korea. The people who appear in the paintings are 26 adult males, 2 minor males, 2 adult females and 3 kisaengs. Typical men wore 'Jeogori' which had various colors and white linings with a reached hip line, and knotted with a 'go-rum' on the right side. They also wore, white colored 'Baji' with colorful sash that were knot below knee or ankle together with 'Hang-jun' or 'Daenim'. They wore 'Beoseon'. Some men wore 'Po' whose colors were blue, green, indigo, white. The general women wore 'Jeogori' in deep green and light pink, indigo, green, red, and they matched with colors for 'Kit' and, 'Go-rum', 'Kut-dong' and its 'Go-rum' was short and narrow. It was so fit and short with narrow sleeve. It had 'Dunggun-kit'(round head collar) with white 'Dong-jung' and so it fit at neck. They wore 'Chi-ma' whose color was red, light green, or light indigo. It contrasted with 'Jeogori'. The width of 'Chi-ma' was big enough. Then white inner slacks came out under the skirt. Traditional Korean games can be classified according to age and gender. Then the games can be further classified into three categories : men's games, women's games, and games for all. The games for adult are an archery practice, hunting, shovel work with a karae, making a bow, drawing Jongkung-chart, Korean chess, playing paduk, and the Korean card game. A swing is a game for women. Games for both men and women are dice play, and domino game. Games for both adult and minor males are sledge, and tightrope walking. Through genre paintings in the $19^{th}$ century, I reached a conclusion that basic costumes are similar to 'Hanbok' at the present time and the method of wearing them has not changed much. It appears that the originality of traditional costumes has been maintained.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.1
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• pp.74-87
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• 2018

This thesis investigated majo and maja costumes of depicted in Francisco de Goya's paintings from the middle of 18th to the early 19th century, and presented the costumes defined as the upward flow from the lower classes to the upper classes. The study methodology selected those describing the maja and majo among the figure paintings, portraits and genre paintings by Goya that identify unique characteristics with the qualitative analysis of the cases of the upward flow with that affect the costume of the upper classes. The influence of the majo and maja costumes were outstanding in the shape of the outfits while the French style gown of the upper class women were one-piece dresses in shape, those of the maja were two-piece dresses that consisted of the upper and gather skirts. The costume was perfected by use of the mantilla or head kerchief, instead of the headdresses prevalent at those times. The majo's costume affected the men's costume of the upper classes in the shape of the outfits. Short coat and tight breeches were preferred to the loose ones as well as instead of a long coat. Rather than the wigs or tri-corn hat, the head kerchief and sash belt applied, which could be evidence of the upward flow as well as shows proof of the influence of majo and maja costumes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.823-835
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• 2018

The body is an important object of costume expression, and the reflection of the aesthetics of the body according to age, culture, individual or group determines the form of the costume. In particular, British artist Leigh Bowery provided many designers and celebrities with original design ideas. Leigh Bowery's costumes are related to the carnival concept. Thus, this study analyzed Leigh Bowery's life and works, and examined Michael Bakhtin's grotesque carnivalesque theory. Based on Bakhtin's carnival theory around 100 works by Leigh Bowery, in the form of YouTube videos and DVD clips were analyzed in this study. The results of the analysis Leigh Bowery's body and costume research are as follows. First, this study can define fetishism as a characteristic of costumes such as body suits, harnesses, high-heeled boots, and stockings, that stress the body. Second, the character of the body is not expressed as that of an idealized body, but the fat and ugly aspect are revealed. Third, Leigh Bowery's costumes are characterized by ambiguity. The costumes blur the boundaries between women and men. Fourth, common sense, combined with normal and bizarre, brings out a strong sense of carnival humor with ridiculousness arising from the gap between reality and reality. His performance has had a significant impact on victims of discrimination or unequal treatment in sexual, racial, and age-related situations. This study should inspire many designers through the study of Leigh Bowery's body expression and dress, but it also introduces fashion icons that are not well known in Korea.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.463-479
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• 2020

The purpose of this study identify the types and characteristics of Hanbok worn in lunar new year parade and Korean parade in New York over the past three years. As for the research method, I first collected domestic news articles, overseas Korean news articles, and literature reviews about the history of the Korean parade in New York and the events of each year. Second, I conducted a case study on Hanbok worn in the six parades from 2017 to 2019 using photo data collected through direct surveys, 'YouTube' video footage and news article photos. Third, I interviewed people related to the New York parade about the route of buying and renting the Hanbok in the New York area. The types of Hanbok shown in the Korean parade in New York can be largely classified as ceremonial, performance, and daily costume. There were 65 ceremonial costumes in all, with men wearing Dallyeong (official's robe) and Gorlyongpo (dragon robe) and women wearing Dangui (woman's semi-formal jacket), Wonsam (woman's ceremonial robe), and Hwarot (princess's ceremonial robe). A number of performance costumes were also worn by the Chwitasu bands, Nongak ensembles and fan dancers. Finally, of the 210 daily Hanbok, most men wore Baji (pants) and Jeogori (jacket), and women wore Chima (skirts) and Jeogori. The parade attempts to showcase the beauty of Hanbok, but the costumes repeat year after year, which can feel monotonous to onlookers. This research can be used as a reference to effectively utilize Hanbok in future Korean cultural events.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.3 no.2 s.2
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• pp.25-30
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• 2005

This study is to research the symbolism of the Eastern and Western costumes' color in films. Therefore, I chose movies about colors, which are 'Trzy Kolory', a Western movie directed by Krzysztof Kieslowski and 'Hero', an Eastern movie directed by Zhang Yimou. The purpose of this study is to figure out the symbolism of the common colors shown in both movie which are red, blue and white. Also, by comparing the eastern and western color symbols I studied the ambivalence of colors. Therefore, the comparison of the eastern and western color symbolisms are as the followings. The color red symbols charity in the movie and jealous, hatless, lies, expansion, self esteem, resist, struggle and sadness in the movie . The color blue symbols freedom, lost, gloomy and sadness in the movie and sacrifice and sadness in the movie . The color white symbols equality and emptiness in the movie and true love, sadness and sacrificed love in the movie . Consequently, it appears that the colors symbolize differently in the East and the West. Three series of which is the West movie has more positive meanings than the Eastern movie. Therefore, the meanings of symbols of the costumes' color are different in the East and West as they have different cultures, and also they could be expressed differently by the directors intention.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.89-102
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• 2010

Atayal studied in this paper is one of the indigenous tribe in Taiwan, which is receiving considerable publicity gradually. Atayal has a quite unique traditional dress and custom as facial tattoo. The study was limited to the conventional culture of body adornment of the Atayal including the clothing which is less preserved and practicing by them at the present day, and the origin and the process of the historical development of those are just a little included in the scope of the present study. Through this study, we can get know about indigenous tribe's cultural background, such as their life, custom, religion, and the influences on traditional costumes. As for the research method, I examined the Atayal's traditional costumes and clothing through related books, magazine, research papers, internet sites, and etc. I also examined the common ground between facial tattoo patterns and their clothing using reference books and official web-site. Traditional clothing materials, basic forms of dress, and the pattern and technique of facial tattoo were examined in the present study in order to deepen the appreciation of the cultural heritage of the Atayal. In way, I hope this study will make a contribution to the field of Korean fashion industry which intends to enter Taiwan market.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.49 no.5
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• pp.23-32
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• 2011

This study will covered socio-cultural background and characteristic of the face-concealing culture of Istanbul which has liberal and westernized clothes culture for women even if it's an city in an Islamic country. This study depended on literatures related to religion, culture and costumes of the Ottoman Empire, especially costumic data on miniature of turkey, which was famous from 16th to 19th century. Since the 17th century, the Ottoman Empire has been gradually influenced by European countries but the change of women's clothes was not considerable. In the 18th century, women's clothes were influenced by foreign fashions. A veil to cover the face was gradually disappeared and traditional Turkish headdresses were replaced by European hats. Through face-concealing culture of Istanbul, we can see some socio-cultural features like Islamic religious character, one's social position, economic situation, westernization and renovation, beauty and completion of costume, duality for the reason of regional difference.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.5
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• pp.769-785
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• 2018

This study focused on similarities between modern philosophical Nomadism and the thoughts of Korean people as well as analyzed the correlation between modern Nomad fashion and Korean traditional costumes. This study aims are as follows. First, to establish aesthetic characteristics by examining modern Nomadism and Korean thoughts. Second, draw the principles of design expressions of modern Nomad fashion and Korean traditional costumes. Third, analyze correlations between them. The method of this study was a literature review and an analysis of related photos. The study results are as follows. First, Nomadic aesthetics are characterized by the formation of complex diversity with the variability of fusion and separation through liquidity in an ambiguous boundary; in addition, various possibilities and harmony are the characteristics of Korean aesthetics, held by a holistic thought based on the vision of the universe of Qi (氣). Second, Nomad fashion appeared as variable designs through repetition and the overlapping of forms, and irregular designs were noticed through repetition and the overlapping of circles, quadrangles, and angles in Korean traditional costumes. Third, similarities in the creation of liquidity, variability, and de-territoriality based on modules can be found; in addition, common principles can also be drawn from the appearing design expressions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.2
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• pp.82-97
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• 2013

The aim of this thesis is to investigate the change of men and women's costumes in late 18th century and early 19th century in view of its ideological streams by examining the portraits of the painter Jacques-Louis David. The method of investigation used was to select 29 pieces of portraits from 1766 to 1825, which showed the clear descriptions about the costumes and to analyze the costume's forms, ornaments and the headdress. The category was divided into 3 stages in terms of the changes in costume. The first stage, from 1766 until 1788, is the one of turnaround from the Rococo costume to the early neoclassical one. The typical Rococo costume was incrementally transformed into a simpler design without ornaments, and then natural silhouette in men and women's costumes started to appear from 1783 until 1788. This might be attributed to the neoclassical trend which was affected by the enlightenment ideology. The second stage, from 1788 until 1795, is the period of change from the costume of the early neoclassic style to the typical neoclassic style and also the time from the 1793 to 1795 was regarded as the peak of neoclassic style when the effect of enlightenment began to decrease while one of neoclassicism exerted its strong influence on the costume. The third stage, from 1795 until 1825, similar to the previous neoclassical style was also notable in its turning into producing the empire dress of Empire style. From 1820 on, it was a period that showed signs of influence from romanticism while the effect of neoclassicism started to become more diminished.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.835-848
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• 2014

This study investigated the relationship between inner characteristics manifested through the characteristics of artistic styles and formativeness manifested through external expressions of architectural styles in the early Medieval Period and early Renaissance Period. The method applied to this study is as follows. First, a historical document research was conducted centering on academic theses, related books, and academic databases; in addition, a case study identified the aesthetic characteristics of women's clothes. The conclusion of this study is as follows. First, the following is the analysis of the relationship between the artistic mode and architectural formativeness in the early Medieval Period and early Renaissance Period that represent a turning point in artistic paradigms. Second, the inner characteristics and eclecticism of the artistic mode literally appear in the formativeness of architectural style in the early Medieval Period, and the eclecticism in the architectural style appears to be expressed through a combination with new styles based on the application of the retro mode such as the eclectic adoption of cultural styles of various regions based on the tradition and technology of ancient Rome. Third, the trend of the aesthetic characteristics commonly appear in the modern style of expression related to the aesthetic characteristics of western women's clothes in the early Medieval Period; in addition, the early Renaissance Period was analyzed as decorativeness and respectively manipulability.