• Bulletin of the Korean Chemical Society
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.819-822
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• 2005

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.42 no.1
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• pp.37-43
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• 2016

This research was carried out to identify the whitening effect of Banana leaf extract. B16F10 cells were used to measure cell viability, mRNA expression, and tyrosinase activity inhibition assay from B16F10 cell. We also carried out clinical test of the cream product containing banana leaf extract. In this study, we elucidated the effects of banana leaf extract on TRP1 / TRP2 / Tyr mRNA expression and tyrosinase activity inhibition. Quantitative real-time PCR showed that banana leaf extract decreased mRNA level of TRP1, TRP2 and Tyr gene and tyrosinase activity inhibition assay also revealed that banana leaf extract 65% decreased melanin production in B16F10 cell. Banana leaf extract cream can whiten the skin darkness induced by ultraviolet. Therefore, we successfully identified the whitening effect of banana leaf extract, and this finding suggested the banana leaf extract is a considerable potent cosmetic ingredient for skin whitening. Based on this, we anticipated further researches about banana leaf extract for mechanism to develop not only cosmetics but healthcare food or medicines.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition
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• v.37 no.6
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• pp.696-700
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• 2008

The objective of this study was to investigate the genotoxicological safety and biological functions of octadeca-9,12-dienyl-3,4,5-trihydroxybenzoate (GA-LA) in cream-based emulsion for future application as a functional cosmetic material as well as food. GA-LA was synthesized chemically from gallic acid and linoleic acid. The Ames test showed that GA-LA did not have mutagenical toxicity. The control cream-based emulsion containing GA-LA was prepared by commercial method and tested for 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activity. Ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP) and inhibition effect against tyrosinase of the emulsions were tested for the evaluation of antioxidative and skin-whitening activities. The results showed that DPPH radical scavenging activity in the cream-based emulsion containing GA-LA was higher (52.65%) than that of the control (4.30%). The FRAP value of the sample was 12.85%, however, no activity was found in control. The inhibition effect of tyrosinase showed also a higher value (26.29%) when compared to the control. The results indicate that GA-LA, which showed superior antioxidative and skin-whitening activities in cream-based emulsion, is a useful functional material applicable in cosmetic products as well as food.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.275-286
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• 2008

In this study, we investigated the anti-oxidative, anti-wrinkle and whitening effects of Platycarya strobilacea bark extracts. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$) of extract / fractions of Platycarya strobilacea was in the order: 50% ethanol extract ($6.75{\mu}g/mL$) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction ($6.62{\mu}g/mL$) < ethyl acetate fraction ($4.15{\mu}g/mL$). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of some Platycarya strobilacea extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The order of ROS scavenging activity was ethyl acetate fraction (OSC50, $0.56{\mu}g/mL$) < 50% ethanol extract ($0.02{\mu}g/mL$) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction ($0.01{\mu}g/mL$). The deglycosylated aglycone fraction showed the most prominent scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract / fractions of Platycarya strobilacea on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The ethanol extract (50%) suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner, particularly ethyl acetate fraction exhibited the most prominent cellular protective effect (${\tau}_{50}$, 717.27 min at $10{\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effect of Platycarya strobilacea extracts on tyrosinase were investigated to assess their whitening efficacy. Finally, their anti-elastase activities were measured to predict the anti-wrinkle efficacy in the human skin. The inhibitory effect ($IC_{50}$) on tyrosinase of some Platycarya strobilacea extracts was 50% ethanol extract ($243.98{\mu}g/mL$) < ethyl acetate fraction ($153.87{\mu}g/mL$) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction ($137.53{\mu}g/mL$). Also, The inhibitory effect of elastase ($IC_{50}$) of some Platycarya strobilacea extracts was 50% ethanol extract ($31.01{\mu}g/mL$) < ethyl acetate fraction ($14.42{\mu}g/mL$) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction ($1.48{\mu}g/mL$). The cream containing the ethyl acetate fraction of Platycarya strobilacea extracts was formulated. The skin hydration, transepidermal water loss, and the whitening effects were investigated after topical application of the cream. The skin hydration of cream containing extract was increased by $2{\sim}8%$ than the placebo cream, transepidermal water loss was decreased. The cream containing extract suppressed the melanogenesis of skin by 9.55% than the placebo cream. These results indicate that extract / fractions of Platycarya strobilacea can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by anti-oxidative activity and protect cellular membranes against ROS. The inhibitory effect on elastase and tyrosinase, and the increase of skin hydration and the whitening effect of the cream containing extract could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for antiaging.

• YAKHAK HOEJI
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• v.42 no.1
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• pp.39-45
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• 1998

Kojic acid, antimelanogenic agent, has been widely used in cosmetics to lighten the skin color. However, it has skin irritancy and instability against pH, temperature and light. To overcome these problems and optimize the molecular structure of kojic acid (KA), a prodrug, kojic acid monostearate(KMS), has been synthesized to modify the topical drug delivery in the point of sustained release of the parent drug via enzymatic hydrolysis during skin absorption. The prodrug was tested for enzymatic hydrolysis with cytosolic fraction of hairless mouse, skin. From the in vitro skin permeation study through hairless mouse skin, we found that KMS was retained in the skin and generated KA continuously by the skin esterase cleavage. In addition, topical formulations of o/w type creams and polyolprepolymer-containing cream were further tested for whitening effects using in vivo yellow skin guinea pig model.

• KSBB Journal
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.18-24
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• 2010

Juglans mandshurica belongs to the family Juglandaceae is known to contain a wide range of pharmacological activities including anti-cancer, anti-inflammation, astringent, and anti-human immunodeficiency virus-type 1 (HIV-1). Melanogenesis refers to the biosynthesis of melanin pigment in melanocytes. In this study, to investigate the whitening activity of the extracts from Juglans mandshurica, we measured effects on a tyrosinase activity, a melanogenesis, and a tyrosinase synthesis in the B16/BL6 melanoma cells and an antioxidant activity. The extracts significantly scavenged a 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and a superoxide anion radicals in a dose-dependent manner with a $SC_{50}$ value of $20\;{\mu}g/mL$ and $25\;{\mu}g/mL$, respectively. Also, the tyrosinase activity and melanogenesis were significantly inhibited by the extracts. Furthermore, the synthesis of tyrosinase protein was significantly decreased by the extracts in enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay. Double blind study on the clinical efficacy of a cream containing 2% of the extracts showed that the extracts have a significant skin whitening effect. Therefore, this study demonstrates that the extracts from Juglans mandshurica may be useful as a potential agent for skin whitening.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.157-165
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• 2010

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase and elastase of Rhododendron brachycarpum D. Don extracts were investigated. And the moisturizing effect of cream containing R. brachycarpum D. Don extract were investigated by clinical trial. The ethyl acetate fraction of R. brachycarpum D. Don extract (1.83 ${\mu}g/mL$) showed the most prominent the free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of R. brachycarpum D. Don extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The 50 % extract fraction (0.064 ${\mu}g/mL$) showed the most prominent ROS scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of R. brachycarpum D. Don on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The R. brachycarpum D. Don extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner (1 ~ 10 ${\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effects ($IC_{50}$) of R. brachycarpum D. Don extracts on tyrosinase were determined with ethyl acetate fraction of R. brachycarpum D. Don extract (70.5 ${\mu}g/mL$) and aglycone fraction of extract (122.40 ${\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effects ($IC_{50}$) on elastase were determined with ethyl acetate of R. brachycarpum D. Don extract (43.50 ${\mu}g/mL$) and aglycone fraction of extract (20.73 ${\mu}g/mL$). The cream containing the ethyl acetate fraction of R. brachycarpum D. Don extracts was formulated for skin hydration effect and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The cream containing R. brachycarpum D. Don extract was applied to the right lower arm. After 180 min, the water contents in skin were increased by 1 ~ 4 % than the placebo cream. And TEWL of parts was decreased as 7.7 $g/m^2h$ (experimental cream) and 8.9 $g/m^2h$ (placebo cream) respectively. These results indicate that extract/fractions of R. brachycarpum D. Don can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. And inhibitory activity on tyrosinase of the aglycone fraction could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for whitening and anti-wrinkle products. Also the increase of skin hydration of the cream containing extract could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for antiaging.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.79-86
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• 2007

The aim of this study was to investigate the inhibitory effects of Forsythia suspensa fruit extracts (FSfE) ($0.1{\sim}1.0%$) and their active component on melanogenesis. FSfE dose-dependently inhibited melanin synthesis (up to $63.1{\pm}3.1%$ at the concentration of 1.0%) without cell cytotoxicity. We purifed one active compound from FSfE and identified its structure. It was identified as 4-[(3,4-Dimethoxyphenyl)methyl)]dihydro-3-[(4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl)methyl]-2(3H)-furanone (arctigenin) by $^1H-NMR,\;^{13}C-NMR$, and Mass analysis. Arctigenin also inhibited melanin synthesis in a dose dependent manner (up to $52.7{\pm}3.1%$ at the concentration of $3.0{\mu}g/mL$). In order to verify the whitening activity of the cream containing 3% FSfE, we performed the clinical test with twenty five female volunteers for 8 weeks. Bioengineering analyses and visual assessment by doctors at the initial time point and 8 weeks after applications showed that cream containing FSfE have significant whiteining effect (paired t-test). From the results, we conclude that the FSfE can be used as a useful whitening agent.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.43 no.1
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• pp.43-52
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• 2017

EtOAc fractions of Magnolia obovata (M. obovata) Bark extracts were studied for the potential ingredient as a safe and effective whitening cosmetic material. The concentration of active substances honokiol was determined by HPLC. In vitro, the fractions reduced the extracellular and intracellular melanin contents in B16F10 cells in dose dependently and inhibited extracellular melanin secretion ($IC_{50}=11.05{\mu}g/mL$). The $12.5{\mu}g/mL$ treatment of maximum concentration effectively inhibited up to about 60% to the amount of extracullular melanin. Also, the $12.5{\mu}g/mL$ treatment of maximum concentration effectively inhibited up to about 59% to the amount of intracullular melanin ($IC_{50}=10.85{\mu}g/mL$). The $IC_{50}$ value of ${\alpha}-arbutin$ used as a positive control was $59.99{\mu}g/mL$. So, EtOAc fractions of M. obovata Bark extracts showed whitening effect when compared with the non-treatment group. In case of in vivo study, Cosmetic cream with EtOAc fractions of M. obovata Bark extracts was approved by Ethics committee of KDRI (IRB number: KDRI-IRB-1537). As a result in progress for skin sensitization as well as assessment of skin irritation through repeated patch test, skin allergens was identified as non sensitizing agents. Also, cosmetic cream with EtOAc fractions of M. obovata Bark extracts showed significant topical whitening effect and reliable skin safety when compared with the non-treatment group. In conclusion, EtOAc fractions of M. obovata Bark extracts may be a useful cosmetic ingredient for effective skin whitening.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.47 no.4
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• pp.341-352
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• 2021

Acerola is an excellent ingredient because of its high natural vitamin C content, but it is difficult to stabilize and has hardly been studied as a cosmetic material. Therefore, this study developed a mixed liposome preparation for stabilizing acerola extract. As a safety test, the skin irritation test was evaluated by BCOP assay and HET-CAM assay. We evaluated the inhibition of tyrosinase activity, the whitening effect of melanin production, and the wrinkle effect of prochloragentype-I C-peptide production, and confirmed the possibility of functional cosmetics. In addition, a cream of liposomes containing acerola extract mixture was developed to evaluate the clinical studies of skin wrinkles and whitening. BCOP assay, HET-CAM assay and human skin primary irritation test results of liposomes containing acerola extract mixture showed no irritation and were safe from skin and eye. The result of tyrosinase activity by 75.8% at 1,000 ㎍/mL. As a result of the melanogenesis inhibition test, liposome with acerola extract showed the melanin content by 46.2% at 1,000 ㎍/mL that does not effect the viability of the B16F10 cell line. The result of collagen production test using ELISA kit, liposomes containing acerola extract mixture showed collagen synthesis ability by 152.1% at 1,000 ㎍/mL that does not affect the viability of the HS68 cell line. But it did not showed any inhibition of collagenase (MMP-1) activity at all concentrations in the MMP-1 activity inhibition test in the HS68 cell line. We performed clinical studies for the whitening and skin-wrinkle activity of cream containing acerola extract mixes liposome, was showed that the melanin contents and wrinkle was statistically significant reduction. These results suggest that liposomes containing acerola extract mixture have safe natural material, and skin wrinkle, whitening effects allowing their application in cosmetics as a natural product.