• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.141-148
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• 2012

This study investigated the structural coloration and fabric hand of the caustic reduced fabrics for emotional garment using structural color yarns, which was spun by 37 alternating nylon and polyester layers capable of producing basic colors using biomimetic technology. The colorations of the three kinds of structural color yarns were confirmed using multi angle spectro-photometer, and their triangular cross sections composed with 37 alternating nylon and polyester layers were measured using SEM and were discussed with layer length in relation with coloration and spinning conditions were also set up. The apparent color difference and reflectance of the three kinds of fabrics with different density and weave pattern were analysed as ranging from 400nm to 700nm. The optimum fabric structural design which is made by warp and weft densities(194ends/in ${\times}$ 105picks/in) and caustic reduction condition by $100^{\circ}C$ temperature and 60minutes with NaOH, 20g/l solution were decided through analysis of the mechanical properties and fabric hands of these three kinds of fabrics treated with 3 kinds of the caustic reduction conditions. And it was shown that the rate of caustic reduction was increased from 13% to 23% with increasing temperature and time of caustic reduction. The extensibility, bending rigidity and shear modulus of caustic reduction treated fabrics were decreased by treatment of caustic reduction, on the other hand fabric compressibility was increased. And it was shown that the hand value of specimen number one which was treated with temperature $100^{\circ}C$ and time 60minute was the best and the hand of this fabric was better than that of Morpho $fabric^{(R)}$ made by Teijin co. Japan.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.22-30
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• 2004

The polyester fabrics were treated with the chitosan with various solubility in optimized treatment condition. The treatment method was discussed to be a high functional finishing for the polyester fabric to obtain the high moisture absorption and anti-microorganism property by evaluating the effect of the chitosan purification method on the yield and anti-microorganism property of the chitosan. On the other hand, soluble polyurethane was added to the chitosan treatment solution and/or plasma pretreatment was done. The addition of soluble polyurethane give a high add-on ratio as well as a linen like effect of treated polyester fabric. The results were as follows: 1. In the treatment of polyester fabric by the chitosan solution, a soluble PU resin and low temperature plasma treatment were done to obtain high binding force between the fabrics and the chitosan. The add-on rate and the moisture absorption ratio of the fabrics treated with the chitosan-PU after treated with the plasma slightly increased more than those of the fabrics treated with the chitosan only. 2. Anti-static property of the fabrics treated with the chitosan decreased rapidly with increasing of the chitosan concentration. The washing fastness of the fabrics treated with the chitosan-PU after treated with the plasma was better than those of the fabrics treated with chitosan only. The wrinkle resistance of the treated fabrics decreased constantly with the concentration of the chitosan. The bending rigidity of the treated fabrics increased greatly. On the treatment of polyester fabric under optimum condition, the microorganism reduction rate kept above 90％ after 10times launderings. 3. As the polyester fabrics which has flat yam was used as a weft yams were treated with the chitosan-PU as give a functional finishing effects such as durability, moisture absorption, anti-static and anti- microorganism property. Treated polyester fabric showed a good functional finishing effect and a linen like property.