• 제목/요약/키워드: Wear characteristics

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BTL 디젤 생산을 위한 F-T 디젤의 연료적 특성 연구 (A Study on Fuel Quality Characteristics of F-T Diesel for Production of BTL Diesel)

  • 김재곤;전철환;임의순;정충섭;이상봉;이윤제;강명진
    • 한국응용과학기술학회지
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    • 제29권3호
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    • pp.450-458
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    • 2012
  • 최근 정부는 국가 온실가스를 효율적으로 감축시켜 국제적인 기후변화에 대응하기 위하여 여러 부문에서 기술개발을 진행 중에 있다. 이를 달성하기 위하여 정부는 화석연료를 대체하고 이산화탄소를 감축시키는 수단으로 바이오연료를 저탄소와 탄소중립자원으로 검토하고 있는 실정이다. 일반적으로, 목질계로부터 생산된 2세대 바이오연료는 수송부문에서 기존 화석연료를 대체하고 온실가스를 감축하는데 큰 효과가 있는 것으로 알려져 있다. 이러한 이유로 정부는 목질계 기반 바이오매스 액화연료(biomass-to-liquid fuel)에 대해 파일럿 수준으로 기술개발 중에 있다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 바이오매스액화연료 생산을 위한 동일공정으로 합성된 F-T(Fischer-Tropsch) 디젤의 연료적 특성을 연구하였다. 합성 F-T 디젤은 자동차용 경유에 단독 또는 혼합하여 사용할 수 있는 장점으로 인해 자동차용 경유엔진에 사용될 수 있다. 그 이유는 합성 F-T 디젤이 자동차용 경유와 비슷한 물리적 특성을 가지기 때문이다. 본 연구에 사용된 F-T 디젤은 Fischer-Tropsch (F-T) 공정을 이용하여 저온($240^{\circ}C$)에서 철 촉매를 가지고 합성되었다. 합성 F-T 디젤은 n-파라핀과 iso-파라핀을 함유하고, 등유와 경유 성분을 가진 $C_{12}{\sim}C_{23+}$ 분포로 이루어졌다. 합성 F-T 디젤은 합성 F-T 연료부터 증류를 통해 분리된 합성 F-T 디젤은 자동차용 경유에 비해 세탄가가 높으며, 방향족화합물은 매우 낮고, 황함량는 초저황(sulfur free) 수준으로 평가되었다. 또한 합성 F-T 디젤은 자동차용 경유와 비교하여 황과 방향족 화합물의 함량이 낮기 때문에 윤활성이 열악함을 보였다.

대구지역 동계 제복 근무자의 피복 착의 앙상블과 쾌적성의 주관적 평가 (The Subjective Estimation on the Ensemble and Comfort of Workers Wearing winter Uniform in Taegu)

  • 류덕환;이옥자;김승진;송민규;조지현;정명선
    • 한국의류산업학회지
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    • 제2권3호
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    • pp.253-264
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    • 2000
  • The purpose of this study was to examine the thermal comfort characteristics of the garments for school, textile and bank worker's uniform. The garments selected for this study were frequently used in Taegu area in terms of design and material used for making garments by the survey for the study The human subject tests were performed to determine the thermal comfort characteristics of garments including thermal, humidity, and wearing sensation and the data were analysed statistically. The results of the study were as follows: 1. According to the result of the survey jacket was mostly used as a school uniform for both male and female high school students. The survey showed that 93% of male students wore 'neck T-shirts' and dimensional fitness for the school uniform got suitable at 2~3 grade high school students. In terms of human subject tests, most students rated 'uncomfortable' in wearing sensation of their school uniform. One of this reason was due to the humidity sensation and air velocity sensation. Level of significance of the thermal sensation for gender difference was higher in hands and feet of the subjects than in chest and thigh of them. 2. According to the result of the survey jacket with zipper was mostly used as a textile worker's uniform. The result of the survey indicated that some textile workers are wearing their inner wear (38.7% for upper and 46.6% for lower). In the human subject tests, about 50% of subjects rated 'comfortable to slightly comfortable' for wearing sensation of the textile worker's uniform. It showed that the female subjects of the humidity sensation was rated higher than the male subjects of the humidity sensation, while the male subjects of the thermal sensation was rated higher than the female subjects of the thermal sensation. There was a closer correlation with the subjective thermal sensation for textile worker's uniform in center parts of the subjects such as back and waist than exposed parts. 3. The result of the survey showed that 70% and 23% of the female banker uniform were blouse and jacket, respectively and 75% and 25% of the male banker uniform were jacket and T-shirt, respectively. All interviewee rated trousers and skirts that were used for their lower. 4. The result indicated that 50% male and 67.7% female subjects for the banker uniform rated 'slightly comfortable for the comfort' sensation. 50% male subjects rated 'neutral' and about 50% female subjects rated 'slightly warm to neutral' for the thermal sensation. In addition, The result showed that 75% male subjects for both upper and lower rated 'neutral' for the humidity sensation and also 75% female subjects rated 'neutral to slightly dry'. Thus, there was no significant different between gender. 5. In the thermal sensation of the subjects for the banker's uniform by parts, 50% subjects rated 'neutral' for their body parts, including head, neck, back, waist, hip, lower arm, and thigh. The extremely cold parts were hands and feet for both male and female subjects.

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신라 5~6세기 무덤 출토 팔찌에 대한 연구 -물리적·형태적 특성 및 착장 양상을 중심으로 (A Study of the Bracelets Excavated from Fifth-and Sixth-century Silla Kingdom Tombs: Physical Characteristics and Wearing Practices)

  • 윤상덕
    • 박물관과 연구
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    • 제1권
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    • pp.174-197
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    • 2024
  • 피장자의 성별 및 위계 연구에 신라 마립간기 무덤 출토 귀금속제 장신구는 주요 연구대상이다. 그럼에도 팔찌(釧)는 소홀히 다루어졌는데, 최근 하대룡이 팔찌를 통해 성별을 추정한 연구를 발표하여 주목받았다. 이에 신라 팔찌의 기본 요소에 대한 관찰과 정리가 필요해졌고 이 글에서 물리적인 성격부터 외관과 변천, 착장 양상을 검토하였다. 대상 팔찌는 총 176점으로 은제, 금제가 대부분이며, 동, 유리 등이 확인되었다. 제작방법은 대부분 일회용 토범(土范)을 사용해서 주조로 만들었으며, 특히 각목문이나 돌기문도 새긴 것이 아니라 주조임을 알 수 있었다. 유리 팔찌와 용문양 팔찌는 둥근 형태의 거푸집을 사용하고, 판금제작을 제외한 나머지 팔찌는 '一자'형 거푸집으로 주조하여 둥글게 구부린 것으로 보았다. 이렇게 구부린 뒤에 양 끝을 접합해서 땜한 경우(폐쇄형)와 접합하지 않고 열린 형태로 둔 경우(개방형)로 나눌 수 있다. 변천은 이한상의 연구와 같이 황남대총 북분에서 출토된 문양 없는 둥근 봉의 형태에 각목문이 부가되고, 6세기가 되면 돌기형이 유행하는 방향을 확인하였는데, 초기형태는 원삼국시대의 가는 봉형 팔찌에서 이어진 것으로 추정하였다. 팔찌는 착장 뒤에 쉽게 빠지지 않도록 손목에 맞춰서 제작해야 하며, 이를 위해 개방형의 디자인이 사용될 수 밖에 없다. 또 금, 은과 동의 연성을 고려하면 늘림이나 변형은 가능하다고 보았다. 결국 팔찌가 남성의 손에 들어가기에 작더라도 개방형은 착장할 수 있으며, 폐쇄형도 타원형으로 변형하면 남성도 착장이 불가능하지 않다고 판단하였다. 즉, 변형 가능 정도에 따라 개방형인 A유형에서 유리팔찌와 같이 변형이 거의 불가능한 D유형까지 나누었을 때, 개방형인 A유형이 세환이식 착장자에게 더 많이 확인되며, 변형이 어려운 C, D 유형은 세환이식 착장자에게는 보이지 않고 태환이식 착장자에게서만 발견되는 점을 확인하였다. 따라서 팔찌는 남성도 착장할 수 있었으며, 세환이식과 태환이식 및 대도 착장을 기준으로 남녀를 구별하는 기존의 연구는 여전히 유효하다고 생각한다

도시.농촌 지역 초등학생의 가족환경, 건강행위 및 건강상태에 관한 비교 (Comparision of Family Environment, Health Behavior and Health State of Elementary Students in Urban and Rural Areas)

  • 배연숙;박경민
    • 지역사회간호학회지
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    • 제9권2호
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    • pp.502-517
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    • 1998
  • This research intends to survey family environment, health behavior and health status of the students in urban-rural elementary schools and analyze those factors comparatively, and use the result as basic material for school health teacher to teach health education in connection with family and regional areas. It also intends to improve a pupil's self-abilitiy in health care. The subjects involve 2,774 students of urban elementary schools and 583 student in rural ones, who were selected by means of a multi -stage probability sampling. Using the questionnaire and school documents, we collected data on family environment, health behavior and health status for 19 days. Feb. 2nd 1998 through Feb. 20th 1998. The R -form of Family Environment Scale (Moos, 1974) was used in the analysis of family environment(Cronbach's Alpha =0.80). Questionnaires of Health Behavior in School-aged children used by the WHO in Europe(Aaro et al., 1986) and the ones developed by the Health Promotion Committee of the Western Pacific(WHO, 1995)(adapted by long Young-suk and Moon Young-hee(1996)) were used in the analysis of health behavior, as well documents on absences due to sickness, school health room-visits, levels of physical strength, height, weight and degree of obesity were used to determine health status. In next step, We used them with an $X^2$-test, t-test, Odds Ratio, and a 95% Confidence Interval. 1. In two dimensions of three, family-relationship (t=3.41, p=0.001) and system -maintenances(t= 2.41, p=0.0l6) the mean score of urban children were significantly higher than those of rural ones. In the personal development dimension however, there was little significant difference. Assorting family environment into 10 sub-fields and analyzing them, we recognized that urban children were superior to rural children in the sub-fields of expressiveness (t =3.47, p=0.001), conflict (t=0.48, p=0.001), active-recreational orientation (t = 1.97, p=0.049) and organization (t=4.33, p=0.000). 2. Referring to the Odds Ratios of urban-rural children's health behaviors, urban children set up more desirable behavior than rural children wear ing safety belts (Odds Ratio =0.32, p=0.000), washing hands after meals(Odds Ratio = 0.43, p= 0.000), washing hands after excreting (Odds Ratio = 0.39, p=O.OOO), washing hands after coming - home ( Odds Ratio = 0.75, p = 0.003), brushing teeth before sleeping(Odds Ratio =0.45, p=0.000), brushing teeth more than once a day (Odds Ratio =0.73, p=0.0l2), drinking boiled water (Odds Ratio = 0.49, p=0.000), collecting garbage at home(Odds Ratio=0.31, p=0.000) and in the school(Odds Ratio =0. 67, p=0.000). All these led to significant differences. As to taking milk(Odds Ratio = 1.50, p=0.000), taking care of eyesight(Odds Ratio=1.41, p=0.001) and getting physical exercise in(Odds Ratio = 1.33, p=0.0l9) and outside the school(Odds Ratio = 1.32, p=0.005), rural children had more desirable behavior which also revealed a significant difference. There was little significant difference in smoking, but the smoking rate of rural children(5.5%) was larger than that of urban children(3.9%). 3. Health status was analyzed in terms of absences, school health room-visits, levels of physical strength, and the degree of obesity, height and weight. Considering Odds Ratios of the health status of urban-rural children, the health status of rural children was significantly better than that of the urban ones in the level of physical strength(t=1.51, p=0.000) and the degree of obesity(t=1.84, p=0.000). The mean height of urban children ($150.4{\pm}7.5cm$) is taller than that of their counterparts($149.5{\pm}7.9$), which revealed a significant difference (t =2.47, p=0.0l4). The mean weight of urban children($42.9{\pm}8.6kg$) is larger than that of their counterparts($41.8{\pm}9.0kg$), which was also a significant difference(t=2.81, p=0.005). Considering the results above, we can recognize that there are significant differences in family environment, health behavior, and health status in urban-rural children. These results also suggestion ideas for health education. What we would suggest for the health program of elementary schools is that school health teachers should play an active role in promoting the need and importance of health education, develop the appropriate programs which correspond to the regional characteristics, and incorporate them into schools to improve children's ability to manage their own health management.

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이중 구조의 X선 차폐시트 설계를 위한 FLUKA 수송코드의 신뢰성 검증 (Reliability Verification of FLUKA Transport Code for Double Layered X-ray Protective Sheet Design)

  • 강상식;허승욱;최일홍;전제훈;양승우;김교태;허예지;박지군
    • 한국방사선학회논문지
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    • 제11권7호
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    • pp.547-553
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    • 2017
  • 현재 의료분야에서는 방사선 차폐체로서 납(Pb)이 널리 쓰이고 있다. 하지만 납은 무게가 매우 무거워 납치마 등의 방호복은 장시간 착용이 어려우며, 인체에 치명적인 납 중독의 위험이 상시 가지고 있다는 문제점을 가지고 있다. 이러한 문제점을 해결하고자 납을 대체 할 수 있는 물질에 대한 많은 연구가 진행되고 있다. 현재 납의 대체물질로써 대표적인 바륨(Ba)과 요오드(I) 등은 우수한 차폐능을 가지고 있지만, 30keV 근처의 에너지 영역에서 특성 X선을 방출하는 특성을 가지고 있다. 환자나 방사선 종사자의 경우 차폐체를 인체에 접촉하고 있는 경우가 많으므로 차폐체에서 발생되는 특성 X선이 인체에 직접 조사되어 방사선 피폭을 증가시킬 위험이 매우 높다. 본 연구에서는 바륨(Ba)과 요오드(I)등에서 발생되는 특성 X선을 제거하기에 적절한 이중구조 차폐체를 방사선 수송코드 중 하나인 FLUKA 수송코드를 개발하여 선행연구로서 진행된 MCNPX 시뮬레이션과 비교 분석하여 이중구조 차폐체의 차폐율에 대한 신뢰성을 검증하고자 하였다. MCNPX와 FLUKA를 이용하여 황산바륨($BaSO_4$)과 산화비스무스($Bi_2O_3$)로 이루어진 다양한 두께조합의 이중구조 차폐체를 설계하였으며, IEC61331-1에 제시된 모식도를 기하학적으로 동일하게 시뮬레이션 상에 구현하였다. 또한, 120 kVp의 연속 X선 스펙트럼에 대한 차폐체의 투과스펙트럼과 흡수선량을 납과 비교 평가하였다. 평가결과, $0.3mm-BaSO_4/0.3mm-Bi_2O_3$$0.1mm-BaSO_4/0.5mm-Bi_2O_3$ 구조에서는 33 keV와 37 keV의 특성 X선을 모두 흡수하였으며, 90 keV 이상의 고에너지 X선에 대해서도 납과 거의 유사한 차폐효율을 보였다. 또한, FLUKA의 수송코드는 33 keV 이하에서는 cut-off 가 발생하여 저에너지 X선 광자에 대한 전산모사에 제약이 있지만, 40 keV 이상의 고에너지 영역에서 MCNPX와의 상대오차가 6 % 이내로 신뢰성이 매우 우수하다는 것을 확인할 수 있었다.

종교화에 나타난 천사의 복식에 관한 연구 (A Study on Angels' Costumes in Religious Paintings)

  • 김혜전
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제3권1호
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    • pp.1-11
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    • 1979
  • This is a study on angels' costumes in religious paintings, especially as this relates to the questions of concepts and theological symbolism. Angels, as spiritual creatures in Christian thought, play the role of praising God's glory, as messengers of God, the role of guarding Israel and the Church, and protecting or punishing human beings. Sometimes the angels appear in incarnate form. They display no sexual differences and are not able to procreate. The angels' funtional classification being thus; nevertheless, they are pictured in various costumes and appearances according to characteristics of the paintings. The angel Michael appears as a man of dignity when pictured as a guard; the angel Gabriel in the annunciation is often portrayed as a woman of mystical beauty. Under the Renaissance, the mighty cherubim and seraphim at Yahweh's throne are degraded as plump child-angels, or winged child-heads looking alike Eros or Cupid. They have become playful and all too obviously non-heavenly chrubs, accepted features of the Temple decorations. However, cherubim are often depicted as naked or wrapped around with a piece of cloth and accompanied with wind, which symbolizes the Glory of God. The angels, costumes without seam are hung over or wrapped around the body, and when sewn they are simple and ample enough that they fall in a great many folds. However, by the 14C. angels are mostly dressed in costumes common to all Europe, and after that angels gradually appear in folk costumes; for example Italian, Flemish, etc. Dalmatic, the typical costume of Byzantine often shows up as angels' dresses even after the period. Originally the dalmatic was the Roman tunic to which Eastern influences added. The Roman clavus on the tunic had gradually lost distinction until, by the Imperial epoch, it was worn by the lowest servants. It was proudly therefore, as 'The servants of God', that the early Christians are shown wearing the clavus on their wide, ungirdled, sleeved dalmatics. In addition to their costume, angels have some other distinct charateristics. First, angels have a halo around their head; this symbolizes their holiness. Second, angels wear a narrow diadem or a queen's crown that seems to denote their glorious status close to God's throne. Third, the cloth band across the breast resembles a priest's stole, which suggests the sacred role of a priest and symbolizes the grace santified. Fourth, lilies in the annunciations are symbols of Mary's virginity. chastity, innocence and heavenly bliss. Angels hold palms or olives in their hands. The former denote prosperity. beauty and the Christians' reward after death; the latter represent peace and amity. the imperial crown made of olives means victory. Fifth, angels in paintings always have a pair of wings, which can be traced to scripture where cherubim and seraphim are described as having pairs of wings. Angels' wings often have colors of the rainbow, and the rainbow is compared to God's glory. Sixth, generally artists paint angels' costumes as white, blue, green, gold and purple. Other colors such as red rarely appear. According, to scriptures it is believed that angels should be depicted 'as white as snow'. According to the biblical expressions of angels as lightning, sun or a pillar of fire, angels should be described as creatures of light. Nevertheless being a form of art, religious paintings may differ in their presentation according to an artist's inspiration and intention. Since religious paintings illustrated above were almost all done before the Reformation, symbols of colors used in the Catholic Church will also be mentioned. The white color symbolizes chastity, purity, brightness, delight and divinity. Green represents new birth, eternal life, spiritual revival and the expectance of the grace of God. Blue, the color of sapphires, denotes chastity and truth. Red, the color of rubies, represents divinity, love and religious passion. Violet is the color of dignity, indicating the sovereign, royal or imperial power and the great Sacrifice of Christ. As mentionad above, angels' costumes were expressed in accordance with contemporary patterns or as indicated in the Bible, and accesories and colors correspond with Christian symbols. Therefore these facts should be taken into consideration when it comes to the study of costume history.

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마케팅 믹스 요소가 브랜드 자산에 미치는 영향에 관한 연구 (The Effect of Marketing Mix elements on brand Equity)

  • 류장무
    • 산업융합연구
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    • 제1권1호
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    • pp.41-70
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    • 2003
  • Many researches on brand equity have been focused in definition about it, factors of it, and the process of formation. Most of them have been used by voluntary production category, as is durable goods or nondurable goods. But this study, using the model is developed by Foote, Cone & Be1ding(FCB) Company, classified four fields, high-low involvement, rationality(rational or sensitive) involvement. The selected goods is a sensitive high involvement(casual wear). This study investigate the effects of brand equity and search the influences of brand equity formation according to factors of marketing mix. To this goals, this study kept a literature survey and a demonstrative research. In literature survey, there are several definitions of brand and brand equity. The research model is derived from selected factors of marketing mix and former study. This study used the regression analysis to verify effects from brand equity through the selected marketing mix. The research data is collected from the capital area. The focus of this study is effects of brand equity according to marketing mix. The followings are results and suggestions of this study. First, in the price factors, the affirmative effects are revealed the perceived quality and the brand awareness in a rational high involvement goods, the perceived quality and the brand associations in a sensitive high involvement goods, all factors of brand equity in a rational low involvement goods, and the perceived quality in a sensitive low involvement goods. As summary, the important characteristics is the price factors to consumers, and consumers recognize that a high price means a high quality. Second, in the store image factors, the affirmative effects are revealed all brand equity factors in a rational high involvement and a sensitive high-low involvement. A good store image incites more interest, contact, and visit from potential consumer. And such store offers more consumer satisfaction, simulates more active and positive conversation to consumers. Third, in advertising spending factors, the affirmative effects are revealed the brand awareness and associations in a rational high involvement and a sensitive high involvement, all brand equity factors in a rational low involvement and a sensitive low involvement. An advertisement increases not only a brand awareness but also strong brand associations. Forth, in price promotion factors, the affirmative effects are revealed the brand associations in a rational high involvement, the negative effects are revealed all brand equity in sensitive high involvement. According the result about the effects of brand royalty through the brand equity factors, a perceived quality and brand associations have positive effects to brand royalty in all factors. Consumers choice a deep perceived quality than other competitive brand. So, brand equity will increase according to a qualitative grade of a perceived brand by consumers. Brand associations represent a quality and a degree of involvement. In conclusion, brand associations and equity have a positive relation each other. According to the analysis results about a brand royalty of selected marketing mix factors, the affirmative effects are revealed the store image and price promotion factors in a rational high involvement, the price and store image in a sensitive high involvement, and the price and advertising spending in a rational low involvement. The results about the affect of selected marketing mix factors according to brand equity, are the perceived quality in a high involvement, and all brand equity factors in a low involvement. The affirmative effects about a store image are revealed all equity factors in high-low involvement. In advertising spending factors, the affirmative effects are revealed the brand awareness and associations in a high involvement goods, and the perceived quality and the brand awareness in a low involvement goods. In price promotion factors, the affirmative effects are revealed the brand awareness in a low involvement goods, and the negative effects are revealed the brand awareness in a high involvement goods. According to a degree of involvement, the results of a brand royalty through a brand equity factors are following. The affirmative effects are revealed the perceived quality and the brand royalty in a high involvement goods, and the brand awareness are revealed a negative effect. The affirmative effects are revealed the perceived Quality and the brand associations in a low involvement goods. So, in a high involvement goods, the brand royalty is built by strong brand associations, but, in a low involvement goods, the brand royalty is built also by a perceived Quality and a brand awareness. This study have some concept of limitation. So, this study presents a future direction of research. First, a future study has to have more deep analysis for this study analyzed through a limited marketing mix factors. Second, a future research has to get mutual effects about brand equity of marketing mix factors for this study has an individual marketing decision factors. Third, for the future, a brand equity needs a research about a several goods such as services, profit or nonprofit, industrial products, culture, and so on. Forth, the research have to diversify a various data for population.

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조선시대 선잠·친잠의례와 음악의 역사적 변천 (The Historical Changes of Seonjam·Chinjam Ritual and Music in the Joseon Dynasty)

  • 송지원
    • 공연문화연구
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    • 제39호
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    • pp.509-547
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    • 2019
  • 조선 초기부터 행해진 양잠 관련 국가의례는 의식주의 '의(衣)문화'로서 '입을 거리'를 중요시 여기던 국가의 의지를 드러내는 의례로 자리매김 되었다. 성종 대에는 '왕비가 직접 뽕잎을 따는 절차'를 추가하여 그 중요도를 높였다. 영조 대에는 의례의 의미가 더 확대되어 왕비가 양잠신에 직접 제사하는 '작헌례' 절차를 더하여 '여성'이 '여성신격(神格)'에 직접 제사를 올리는 최초의 의례로 자리하게 되어 조선시대 국가제사의 새로운 형태가 출현하였다. 이는 영조가 선농제를 행한 후 직접 밭을 가는 친경의례와 위상을 맞춘 것으로서 농사와 양잠행위의 중요성을 아울러 부각시킨 것이기도 하다. 그 결과 영조 대에 정비된 친잠 관련 의례는 그 내용이 확대되어 11가지 의례로 정착된다. 이는 의례를 행하러 가기 위한 출궁 절차부터 왕세손, 혜빈궁이 왕비를 수행하는 절차, 왕비가 작헌례를 올린 후 친잠하는 의례, 왕이 교서를 반포하는 의례, 친잠을 마친 후 행하는 조현의(朝見儀), 왕비가 누에고치를 담은 상자를 받는 의례까지이다. 이러한 의례는 그 이전에 행해지던 것과 비교하면 매우 큰 규모로 확대된 것으로서 이는 영조 대 의례 정비 양상의 한 특징을 이룬다. 이들 의례의 주요 절차에는 음악이 수반되며 그 음악은 속악, 그리고 고취(鼓吹) 등을 포함한다. 영조 대의 친잠 관련 의례는 선잠제의 신격인 여성을 여성이 직접 제사하는 의례로 정착시키는 방향으로 제정됨으로서 그 명분과 실제가 비로소 일치하게 되었다.

조선왕조(朝鮮王朝) 왕릉(王陵) 문인석상(文人石像)의 복식형태(服飾形態)에 관한 연구 (A Study on the Costume Style of Civil Servants' Stone Images Erected at Tombs of the Kings for Yi-dynasty)

  • 권용옥
    • 복식
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    • 제4권
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    • pp.87-114
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    • 1981
  • A costume reveals the social characteristics of the era in which it is worn, thus we can say that the history of change of the costume is the history of change of the living culture of the era. Since the Three States era, the costume structure of this country had been affected by the costume system of the China's historical dynasties in the form of the grant therefrom because of geographical conditions, which affection was conspicuous for the bureaucrat class, particularly including but not limited to the Kings' familities. Such a grant of the costume for the bureaucrat class (i.e., official uniform) was first given by the Dang-dynasty at the age of Queen Jinduck, the 28th of the Shilla-dynasty. Since then, the costume for the bureaucrats had consecutively been affected as the ages had gone from the unified Shilla, to the Koryo and to the Yi-dynasty. As the full costumes officially used by government officials (generally called "Baek Gwan") in the Yidynasty, there existed Jo-bok, Gong-bok and Sang-bok. Of such official costumes, Gong-bok was worn at the time of conducting official affairs of the dynasty, making a respectful visit for the expression of thanks or meeting diplomatic missions of foreign countries. It appears no study was made yet with regard to the Gong-bok while the studies on the Jo-bok and the Sangbok were made. Therefore, this article is, by rendering a study and research on the styles of costumes of civil servants' stone images erected at the Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty, to help the persons concerned understand the Gong-bok, one of the official costume for Baek Kwan of that age and further purports to specifically identify the styles and changes of the Gong-bok, worn by Baek Gwan during the Yi-dynasty, consisting of the Bok-doo (a hat, four angled and two storied with flat top), Po (gown), Dae (belt), and Hol (small and thin plate which was officially held by the government officials in hand, showing the courtesy to and writing brief memorandums before the King) and Hwa (shoes). For that purpose, I investigated by actually visiting the tombs of the Kings of the Yi-dynasty including the Geonwon-neung, the tomb of the first King Tae-jo and the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong as well as the tombs of the lawful wives and concubines of various Kings, totalling 29 tombs and made reference to relevant books and records. Pursuant. to this study, of the 29 Kings' tombs the costume styles of civil servants' stone images erected at the 26 Kings' tombs are those of Gong-bok for Baek-gwan of the Yi-dynasty wearing Bok-doo as a hat and Ban-ryeong or Dan-ryenog Po as a gown with Dae, holding Hol in hand and wearing shoes. Other than those of the 26 tombs, the costume styles of the Ryu-neung, the tomb of the Moon-jo who was the first son of 23rd King Soon-jo and given the King's title after he died and of the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong are those of Jobok with Yang-gwan (a sort of hat having stripes erected, which is different from the Bok-doo), and that of the Hong-neung, the tomb of the 26th King Go-jong shows an exceptional one wearing Yang-gwan and Ban-ryeong Po ; these costume styles other than Gongbok remain as the subject for further study. Gong-bok which is the costume style of civil servants' stone images of most of the Kings' tombs had not been changed in its basic structure for about 500 years of the Yi-dynasty and Koryo categorized by the class of officials pursuant to the color of Po and materials of Dae and Hol. Summary of this costume style follows: (1) Gwan-mo (hat). The Gwan-mo style of civil servants' stone images of the 26 Kings' tombs, other than Ryu-neung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have Yang-gwan, out of the 29 Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty reveals the Bok-doo with four angled top, having fore-part and back-part divided. Back part of the Bok-doo is double the fore-part in height. The expression of the Gak (wings of the Bokdoo) varies: the Gyo-gak Bok-doo in that the Gaks, roundly arisen to the direction of the top, are clossed each other (tombs of the Kings Tae-jong), the downward style Jeon-gak Bok-doo in that soft Gaks are hanged on the shoulders (tombs of the Kings Joong-jong and Seong-jong) and another types of Jeon-gak Bok-doo having Gaks which arearisen steeply or roundly to the direction of top and the end of which are treated in a rounded or straight line form. At the lower edge one protrusive line distinctly reveals. Exceptionally, there reveals 11 Yang-gwan (gwan having 11 stripes erected) at the Ryu-neung of the King Moon-jo, 9 Yang-gwan at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong and 11 Yang-gwan at the You-neung of the King Soon-jong; noting that the Yang-gwan of Baek Kwan, granted by the Myeong-dynasty of the China during the Yi-dynasty, was in the shape of 5 Yang-gwan for the first Poom (class) based on the principle of "Yideung Chaegang" (gradual degrading for secondary level), the above-mentioned Yang-gwans are very contrary to the principle and I do not touch such issue in this study, leaving for further study. (2) Po (gown). (a) Git (collar). Collar style of Po was the Ban-ryeong (round collar) having small neck-line in the early stage and was changed to the Dan-ryeong (round collar having deep neck-line) in the middle of the: dynasty. In the Dan-ryeong style of the middle era (shown at the tomb of the King Young-jo); a, thin line such as bias is shown around the internal side edge and the width of collar became wide a little. It is particularly noted that the Ryu-neung established in the middle stage and the You-neung in the later stage show civil servants in Jo-bok with the the Jikryeong (straight collar) Po and in case of the Hong-neung, the Hong-neung, the tomb of the King Go-jong, civil servants, although they wear Yang-gwan, are in the Ban-ryeong Po with Hoo-soo (back embroidery) and Dae and wear shoes as used in the Jo-bok style. As I could not make clear the theoretical basis of why the civil servants' costume styles revealed, at these tombs of the Kings are different from those of other tombs, I left this issue for further study. It is also noted that all the civil servants' stone images show the shape of triangled collar which is revealed over the Godae-git of Po. This triangled collar, I believe, would be the collar of the Cheomri which was worn in the middle of the Po and the underwear, (b) Sleeve. The sleeve was in the Gwan-soo (wide sleeve) style. having the width of over 100 centimeter from the early stage to the later stage arid in the Doo-ri sleeve style having the edge slightly rounded and we can recognize that it was the long sleeve in view of block fold shaped protrusive line, expressed on the arms. At the age of the King Young-jo, the sleeve-end became slightly narrow and as a result, the lower line of the sleeve were shaped curved. We can see another shape of narrow sleeve inside the wide sleeve-end, which should be the sleeve of the Cheom-ri worn under the Gong-bok. (c) Moo. The Moo revealed on the Po of civil servants' stone images at the age of the King Sook-jong' coming to the middle era. Initially the top of the Moo was expressed flat but the Moo was gradually changed to the triangled shape with the acute top. In certain cases, top or lower part of the Moo are not reveald because of wear and tear. (d) Yeomim. Yeomim (folding) of the Po was first expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Won-neung, the tomb of the King Young-jo and we can seemore delicate expression of the Yeomim and Goreum (stripe folding and fixing the lapel of the Po) at the tomb of the Jeongseong-wanghoo, the wife of the King Young-jo, At the age of the King Soon-jo, we can see the shape of Goreum similar to a string rather than the Goreum and the upper part of the Goreum which fixes Yeomim was expressed on the right sleeve. (3) Dae. Dae fixed on the Po was placed half of the length of Po from the shoulders in the early stage. Thereafter, at the age of the King Hyeon-jong it was shown on the slightly upper part. placed around one third of the length of Po. With regard to the design of Dae, all the civil servants' stone images of the Kings' tombs other than those of the Geonwon-neung of the King Tae-jo show single or double protrusive line expressed at the edge of Dae and in the middle of such lines, cloud pattern, dangcho (a grass) pattern, chrysanthemum pattern or other various types of flowery patterns were designed. Remaining portion of the waist Dae was hanged up on the back, which was initially expressed as directed from the left to the right but thereafter expressed. without orderly fashion,. to the direction of the left from the right and vice versa, Dae was in the shape of Yaja Dae. In this regard, an issue of when or where such a disorderly fashion of the direction of the remaining portion of waist Dae was originated is also presented to be clarified. In case of the Ryuneung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have civil servants' stone images wearing exceptional costume (Jo-bok), waist Dae of the Ryu-neung and Hong-neung are designed in the mixture of dual cranes pattern, cosecutive beaded pattern and chrvsenthemum pattern and that of You-neung is designed in cloud pattern. (4) Hol. Although materials of the Hol held in hand of civil servants' stone images are not identifiable, those should be the ivory Hol as all the Baek Gwan's erected as stone images should be high class officials. In the styles, no significant changes were found, however the Hol's expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Yi-dynasty were shaped in round top and angled bottom or round top and bottom. Parcicularly, at the age of the King Young-jo the Hol was expressed in the peculiar type with four angles all cut off. (5) Hwa (shoes). As the shoes expressed on civil servants' stone images are covered with the lower edges of the Po, the styles thereof are not exactly identifiable. However, reading the statement "black leather shoes for the first class (1 Poom) to ninth class (9 Poom)," recorded in the Gyeongkook Daejon, we can believe that the shoes were worn. As the age went on, the front tips of the shoes were soared and particularly, at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong the shoes were obviously expressed with modern sense as the country were civilized.

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