• Wind and Structures
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.219-237
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• 2009

This study examines the accuracy of large-eddy simulation (LES) to simulate the flow around a large irregular sloping complex terrain. Typically, real built up environments are surrounded by complex terrain geometries with many features. The complex terrain surrounding The Hong Kong University of Science and Technology campus was modelled and the flow over an uphill slope was simulated. The simulated results, including mean velocity profiles and turbulence intensities, were compared with the flow characteristics measured in a wind tunnel model test. Given the size of the domain and the corresponding constraints on the resolution of the simulation, the mean velocity components within the boundary layer flow, especially in the stream-wise direction were found to be reasonably well replicated by the LES. The turbulence intensity values were found to differ from the wind tunnel results in the building recirculation zones, mostly due to the constraints placed on spatial and temporal resolutions. Based on the validated mean velocity profile results, the flow-structure interactions around these buildings and the surrounding terrain were examined.

• Journal of Ship and Ocean Technology
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.61-69
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• 2004

Unsteady nonlinear wave motions on the free surface over a plane beach of constant slope are numerically simulated using a finite difference method in rectangular grid system. Two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations and the continuity equation are used for the computations. Irregular leg lengths and stars are employed near the boundaries of body and free surface to satisfy the boundary conditions. Also, the free surface which consists of markers or segments is determined every time step with the satisfaction of kinematic and dynamic free surface conditions. Moreover, marker-density method is also adopted to allow plunging jets impinging on the free surface. The second-order Stokes wave theory is employed for the generation of waves on the inflow boundary. For the simulation of wave breaking phenomena, the computations are carried out with the plane beach of constant slope in surf zone. The results are compared with other existing experimental results. Agreement between the experimental data and the computation results is good.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.18-24
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• 2004

In this study, the Mild slope equation is extended to both rapidly varying topography and nonlinear waves, using the Hamiltonian principle. It is shown that this equation is equivalent to the modified mild-slope equation (Kirby and Misra, 1998) for small amplitude wave, and it is the same form with the nonlinear mild-slope equation (Isobe, 1994) for slowly varying bottom topography. Comparing its numerical solutions with the results of some hydraulic experiments, there is good agreement between them.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.35 no.4
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• pp.845-852
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• 2015

The runup height is an important design parameter to determine the crest elevation of coastal structures and seawalls. In this study, two dimensional wave runup tests for rubble-mound structure covered by tetrapods were conducted. Incident waves at the toe include nonbreaking, breaking and broken random wave conditions. A empirical formula to predict runup elevation of rubble-mound structure with 1:1.5 front slope was proposed on the basis of physical model test results using a surf similarity parameter. The test results from this study were compared with those from van der Meer and Stam(1992).

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.283-296
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• 2020

A numerical model is established to investigate the run-up of a solitary wave after propagating over a triangular saw-tooth-shaped submerged breakwater. A rectangular-shaped submerged breakwater is simulated for comparison. Several factors, including the submerged depth, the lagoon length and the beach slope, are selected as independent variables. The free surface motions and velocity fields of the solitary wave interacting with the submerged breakwater are discussed. The results show that the submerged depth and lagoon length play significant roles in reducing the run-up. The influence of the beach slope is not significant. At the same submerged depth, the triangular saw-tooth-shaped submerged breakwater has only a slightly better effect than the rectangular-shaped submerged breakwater on the run-up reduction. However, a calmer reflected wave profile could be obtained with the rougher surface of the saw-tooth-shaped submerged breakwater. The study conclusions are expected to be useful for the conceptual design of saw-tooth-shaped submerged breakwaters.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.35 no.5
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• pp.102-108
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• 2023

In this study, hydraulic model tests were performed to investigate the stability of armor units at harbor side slope for rubble mound structures. The armor units on the rear slope were rocks. The Korean design standard for harbor and fishery port suggested the design figures that showed the ratio of the armor weight for each location of rubble mound structures and it could be known that the same weight ratio was needed to the sea side and rear side slope of rubble mound structures. The crest elements were commonly applied to the design process of rubble mound structures in Korea and the investigation of the effects of super structures would be needed. The damage rate (S =2) was applied and the stable wave height was measured for each test condition. The results were suggested as the armor weight ratio of the rear side slope(armor rock) to the sea side slope (tetrapod) in relation to the relative crest height.

• Proceedings of the KSRS Conference
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• 2008.10a
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• pp.344-347
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• 2008

Ocean surface waves may be modified by ocean current and their observation may be severely distorted if the observer is on a moving platform with changing speed. Tidal current near a sill varies inversely with the water depth, and results spatially inhomogeneous modulation on the surface waves near the sill. For waves propagating upstream, they will encounter stronger current before reaching the sill, and therefore, they will shorten their wavelength with frequency unchanged, increase its amplitude, and it may break if the wave height is larger than 1/7 of the wavelength. These small scale (${\sim}$ 1 km changes is not suitable for satellite radar observation. Spatial distribution of wave-height spectra S(x, y) can not be acquired from wave gauges that are designed for collecting 2-D wave spectra at fixed locations, nor from satellite radar image which is more suitable for observing long swells. Optical images collected from cameras on-board a ship, over high-ground, or onboard an unmanned auto-piloting vehicle (UAV) may have pixel size that is small enough to resolve decimeter-scale short gravity waves. If diffuse sky light is the only source of lighting and it is uniform in camera-viewing directions, then the image intensity is proportional to the surface reflectance R(x, y) of diffuse light, and R is directly related to the surface slope. The slope spectrum and wave-height spectra S(x, y) may then be derived from R(x, y). The results are compared with the in situ measurement of wave spectra over Keelung Sill from a research vessel. The application of this method is for analysis and interpretation of satellite images on studies of current and wave interaction that often require fine scale information of wave-height spectra S(x, y) that changes dynamically with time and space.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.65-70
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• 2009

The hybrid numerical model is developed by combining BEM that can calculate the wave motion rapidly under the potential theory and CADMAS-SURF that solves Navier-Stokes equations for the free surface variation near the structure, In the hybrid model the calculation of wave motion in a wide field of wave reflection for deep water area is conducted by BEM but for shallow water area by CADMAS-SURF. Especially the hybrid model can calculate random wave motions for long term period more rapidly with almost similar accuracy than the calculation of wave motion which was carried out by CADMAS-SURF only. In this study the coupling model was applied to the calculation of the strong nonlinear wave motion such as wave runup and overtopping at the coastal structure on the mild-slope bottom and the results of numerical model were compared with the Toyosima's experiments of regular wave runup and Goda's design diagram of ramdom wave overtopping, respectively.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.165-172
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• 2009

A set of equations for description of transformation of harmonic waves is proposed here. Velocity potential function and separation of variables are introduced for the derivation. The continuity equation is in a vertical plane is integrated through the water so that a horizontal one-dimensional wave equation is produced. The new equation composed of the complex velocity potential function, further be modified into. A set up of equations composed of the wave amplitude and wave phase gradient. The horizontally one-dimensional equations on the wave amplitude and wave phase gradient are the first and second-order ordinary differential equations. They are solved in a one-way marching manner starting from a side where boundary values are supplied, i.e. the wave amplitude, the wave amplitude gradient, and the wave phase gradient. Simple spatially-centered finite difference schemes are adopted for the present set of equations. The equations set is applied to three test cases, Booij's inclined plane slope profile, Massel's smooth bed profile, and Bragg's wavy bed profile. The present equations set is satisfactorily verified against existing theories including Massel's modified mild-slope equation, Berkhoff's mild-slope equation, and the full linear equation.

• Proceedings of the Korean Geotechical Society Conference
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• 2000.11a
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• pp.193-200
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• 2000

Numerical analysis of slope stability is presented using slice method, static seismic analysis methods, and earthquake response analysis methods. Static seismic force is considered as 0.2g while vertical static seismic force is not considered in analysis. For earthquake response analysis, Hachinohe-wave is applied. Safety factor calculated using slice method for failure surface. Calculating methods are Bishop's method and Janhu's method. Static seismic analysis was applied using Mhor-Coulomb model and earthquake response analysis was applied using non-linear elastic model.