• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.58 no.6
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• pp.382-390
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• 2021

The present study suggests the application of a depth camera for wave height field measurement, focusing on the calibration procedure and test setup. Azure Kinect system is used to measure the water surface elevation, with a field of view of 800 mm × 800 mm and repetition rate of 30 Hz. In the optimal optical setup, the spatial resolution of the field of view is 288 × 320 pixels. To detect the water surface by the depth camera, tracer particles that float on the water and reflects infrared is added. The calibration consists of wave height scaling and correction of the barrel distortion. A polynomial regression model of image correction is established using machine learning. The measurement results by the depth camera are compared with capacitance type wave height gauge measurement, to show good agreement.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.168-180
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• 2000

In the Part I, the three dimensional model testing with NNW deep water wave direction gave the results such that the occurrence of breaking waves over the peak of Ear-Do caused very small wave height at the structure position. But the measured wave forces were rather greater than the calculated forces based on deep water wave height. Furthermore, It was also perceived that the time series of the forces looked like corresponding to the case that waves were superimposed by an unidirectional current. In the present Part II, the current is presumed to be a flow secondly induced by breaking waves, and an extensive study to clarify the current in a quantitative sense is performed through numerical analysis and hydraulic experiment. The results showed that a strong circulation can surely occur in the vicinity of the structure due to radiation stress differentials given by the breaking waves. It was also recognized that the velocity of the induced current varied with the magnitude of energy dissipation rate introduced in the numerical analysis. The numerical analysis was tuned adjusting the dissipation rate so that the calculated wave field could closely match with the experimental results of Part I. The fluid force (in prototype) for the optimal match showed approximately 2.2% increased over the calculated value based on the deep water wave height (24.6m) whereas the force corresponding to the average of the experimental values showed the increase of about 13.0%.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.188-196
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• 2009

This study conducted numerical simulations to analyze the wave characteristics(distribution) depending on the directional changes of waves in the Nakdong river estuary by using SWAN(Simulating WAves Nearshore) model. The results from the tests are summarized as below. The wave height rates are generally highly distributed with the incident waves from the S, SSE, SSW, SE, SW in sequence. When the waves from the S, SSW, SSE directions are predominant, the bigger waves were observed in front of sandbars. According to the results of the wave steepness against the wave direction, at the east coast of Gadeok island(northwest of Nakdong estuary), where has mild seabed slopes, the wave height rates distribute in the range of 0.4~0.6; the wave height rates over the west coastal region of Dadeapo(southeast of Nakdong estuary) are 0.5~0.6. The wave height rate tends to be rapidly decreased over the east region of Nakdong river estuary rather than its west region.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.7-12
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• 2008

The present study numerically investigates the effect of the shape of absorbing revetment on wave overtopping rate under regular and irregular incident waves. At first, the numerical model developed by Hur and Choi(2008), which considers the flow through a porous medium with inertial, laminar and turbulent resistance terms, directly simulates Wave-Structure-Sandy seabed interaction and can determine the eddy viscosity with LES turbulent model in 2-Dimensional wave field (LES-WASS-2D), is validated when compared to experimental data. Numerical simulations are then performed to examine the effect of the shape of absorbing revetment and incident wave conditions on wave overtopping rate. The numerical result shows that the wave overtopping rate decreases with the slope gradient of absorbing revetment under both regular and irregular waves. In addition, the effects of mean grain size and porosity of absorbing revetment, incident wave period and crest height on wave overtopping rate are discussed.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.47-55
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• 2004

In this paper, The statistical properties of ocean waves in the sea area of Hong-do, Korea are examined based on 1998-2002's wave data from a directional wave buoy. Wave data aquisition rate, mean wave heights, frequency of wave direction are summarized. Wave height and period scatter diagrams and n-year return period wave heights are estimated. Wave periods of maximum wave heights are also estimated. Large amplitude wave characteristics during the typhoon Prapiroon in 2000, Rusa in 2002 are also examined.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.21-26
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• 2002

In this study, the characteristics of long period waves are analyzed by field observation at Sokcho harbor on the eastern coast of Korea. firstly. the pressure data obtained from field observation are transformed into water surface elevations and the wave by wave analysis is applied to the observed wave data. also, we select long period waves by setting up the range 30-200sec, and suggest the relationship between ordinary waves and long period waves using the concept of the significant wave height. and, we examine the effects oft he long period waves on the rate of the harbor operation. The observation results demonstrate that the long period waves with heights of 1.2-14.6cm and periods of 35.8-162sec exist at Sokcho harbor. also, we found the rates of harbor operation based on long period waves are 61.8%-99.5% lower than the usual rates of 93.8%-100%.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.26-33
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• 1992

Physical experiments were conducted to investigate the suspension properties of silty mud in combined wave-current flow. Suspension mass when there was opposing current was much higher than that when there was following current. It is due to the fact which strong turbulent flow in the bottom is developed in the opposing current but oscillatory flow effect decreases in the following current. Critical bed shear stress for suspension of silty mud in combined wave-current flow was deduced to be $\tau$$_{c}$～0.045 N/$m^2$. Formulas expressing the relation with initial suspension rate with bed shear stress, and the relation between the former and measured significant wave height were deduced. The relationship of initial suspension rate with bed shear stress was significantly scattered, but the relationship with measured significant wave height was reasonably good. When there is wave only, vertical diffusion coefficients of sediment were calculated from the vertical concentration gradients of suspended sediment when the concentration of suspended sediment approached to nearly equilibrium state. The diffusion coefficient increased exponentially with height from the bottom in the lower half of the flow depth but were nearly constant in the upper half of the flow depth.h.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.69-83
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• 2006

A Level 3 reliability analysis has been performed for wave run-up and overtopping on a sloping seawall. A Monte-Carlo simulation was performed considering the uncertainties of various variables affecting the wave overtopping event. The wave overtopping probability was evaluated from the individual wave run-up by using the wave-by-wave method, while the mean overtopping rate was calculated directly from the significant wave height. Using the calculated overtopping probability and mean overtopping rate, the maximum overtopping volume was also calculated on the assumption of two-parameter Weibull distribution of individual wave overtopping volume. In addition, by changing wave directions, depths, and structure slopes, their effects on wave overtopping were analyzed. It was found that, when the variability of wave directions is considered or the water depth decreases toward shore, wave height become smaller due to wave refraction, which yields smaller mean overtopping rate, overtopping probability and maximum overtopping volume. For the same mean overtopping rate, the expected overtopping probability increases and the expected maximum overtopping volume decreases as approaching toward shore inside surfzone.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.142-147
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• 2015

Wave data acquired over seven years near Daejin Harbor located in the north central area of the east coast was analyzed using spectral method and wave-by-wave analysis method and its major wave characteristics were examined. Significant wave heights were found to be high in winter and low in summer, and peak periods were also found to be long in winter and short in summer. The maximum significant wave height observed was 6.59 m and was caused by Typhoon No. 1216, SANBA. The distributional pattern of the significant wave heights and peak periods were both reproduced better by Kernel distribution function than by Generalized Gamma distribution function and Generalized Extreme Value distribution function. Meanwhile, the wave data was subdivided by month and wave height level and the cumulative appearance rate was proposed to aid designing and constructing works in nearby coastal areas.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.19-26
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• 2000

A numerical model is applied for predicting two-dimensional beach and dune erosion during severe storms. The model uses equation of sediment continuity and dynamic equation, governing the on-offshore sediment transport due to a disequilibrium of wave energy dissipation. And the model also uses sediment transport rate parameter K from dimensional analysis instead of that recommended by Kriebel. During a storm, a beach profile evolves to a form where the depth at the surf zone is related to the distance seaward of the waterline. In general, the erosion in the beach profile is found to be sensitive to equilibrium profile parameter, sediment transport rate parameter, storm surge level and breaking wave height.