• Title/Summary/Keyword: Wave erosion

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A Study on the Transport Mechanism of Tidal Beach Sediments I. Deukryang Bay, South Coast of Korea (조간대성 해빈 퇴적물의 이동양상에 관한 연구 I. 한국 남해안의 득량만)

  • Ryu, Sang-Ock;Kim, Joo-Young;Chang, Jin-Ho;Cho, Yeong-Gil;Shin, Sang-Eun;Eun, Go-Yo-Na
    • Journal of the Korean earth science society
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    • v.27 no.2
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    • pp.221-235
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    • 2006
  • In order to understand the transport mechanism of tidal beach sediments in Deukryang Bay, south coast of Korea, beach profiles, surface sediments, sedimentation rates and hydrodynamic conditions have been investigated. The beach is composed of a steep beach face and gentle low-tide terrace, showing general morphologic characteristics of tide dominated beach. Central beach face of an indented coast becomes flattened in summer, but ridge and runnel system developed in other seasons makes the beach profile rather irregular. These seasonal variations of beach profiles and sedimentation rate indicate that beach sedimentation is mainly controlled by both tide and wave processes. Erosion is prevalent in winter when strong wind wave is dominant, while deposition is dominant in other seasons. However, central beach showed an apparent erosional phase in summer. This is caused by strong waves induced by southerly strong winds occurring ephemerally during the summer. On the other hand, sedimentation rates are -89.2 mm/yr on the central beach and 60.5 mm/yr and 38.2 mm/yr on the sides. This result suggests that sediments are eroded on the central beach and subsequently transported to the both sides. Therefore, the central part of Sumun beach, used as a beach bathing site, will be continuously eroded, if nearby dyke continues to prevent the sediment supply from sources.

Evaluation of Adhesive Strength for Nano-Structured Thin Film by Scanning Acoustic Microscope (초음파 현미경을 이용한 나노 박막의 접합 강도 평가)

  • Park, Tae-Sung;Kwak, Dong-Ryul;Park, Ik-Keun;Miyasaka, Chiaki
    • Journal of the Korean Society for Nondestructive Testing
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    • v.32 no.4
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    • pp.393-400
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    • 2012
  • In recent years, nano-structured thin film systems are often applied in industries such as MEMS/NEMS device, optical coating, semiconductor or like this. Thin films are used for many and varied purpose to provide resistance to abrasion, erosion, corrosion, or high temperature oxidation and also to provide special magnetic or dielectric properties. Quite a number of articles to evaluate the characterization of thin film structure such as film density, film grain size, film elastic properties, and film/substrate interface condition were reported. Among them, the evaluation of film adhesive to substrate has been of great interest. In this study, we fabricated the polymeric thin film system with different adhesive conditions to evaluate the adhesive condition of the thin film. The nano-structured thin film system was fabricated by spin coating method. And then V(z) curve technique was applied to evaluate adhesive condition of the interface by measuring the surface acoustic wave(SAW) velocity by scanning acoustic microscope(SAM). Furthermore, a nano-scratch technique was applied to the systems to obtain correlations between the velocity of the SAW propagating within the system including the interface and the shear adhesive force. The results show a good correlation between the SAW velocities measured by acoustic spectroscope and the critical load measured by the nano-scratch test. Consequently, V(z) curve method showed potentials for characterizing the adhesive conditions at the interface by acoustic microscope.

Beach Deformation Caused by Typhoon Chaba in 2016 Along the Manseongri Coast Related Coastal Improvement Project (연안정비사업이 수행된 만성리 해수욕장에서 2016년 태풍 차바에 의한 해빈변화)

  • Park, Il Heum;Park, Wan-Gyu;Jeong, Seung Myong;Kang, Tae-Soon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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    • v.23 no.6
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    • pp.710-718
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    • 2017
  • After Typhoon Chaba (No.18, 2016) collided with Manseongri Beach, a coastal improvement project was carried out since strong external forces such as waves, storm surges and wave-induced currents were observed to cause beach deformation. The shoreline, beach area and beach volume were periodically surveyed. On the basis of this field data, the beach deformation that occurred at Manseongri Beach has been formally described. Over three months after beach nourishment work began, the beaches were gradually stabilized in terms of natural external forces. However, this stabilization was interrupted by Typhoon Chaba. After two months of typhoon weather, the beach returned to a stable state and no changes were observed until one year after the beach recovery work. Just after the typhoon hit, the shoreline receded from the northern side, where no reduction of external forces occurred, while the rear beach area submerged by breakwater advanced. Also, the beach volume decreased by $3,395m^3$ after the typhoon, due to erosion that occurred on the northern beach, with deposition taking place on the southern backshore area. Therefore, it has been concluded that the coastal improvement project undertaken at Manseongri Beach has significantly contributed to conservation in areas of wave-dominant sediment transport.

Variation Characteristics of Wave Field around Three-Dimensional Low-Crested Structure (3차원저천단구조물(LCS) 주변에서 파동장의 변동특성)

  • Lee, Jun Hyeong;Bae, Ju Hyun;An, Sung Wook;Lee, Kwang Ho;Kim, Do Sam
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.31 no.3
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    • pp.180-198
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    • 2019
  • In recent years, countries like Europe and Japan have been involved in many researches on the Low-Crested Structure (LCS) which is the method to protect beach erosion and it is regarded as an alternative to the submerged breakwaters, and compiled its results and released the design manual. In the past, studies on LCS have focused on two-dimensional wave transmission and calculating required weight of armor units, and these were mainly examined and discussed based on experiments. In this study, three-dimensional numerical analysis is performed on permeable LCS. The open-source CFD code olaFlow based on the Navier-Stokes momentum equations is applied to the numerical analysis, which is a strongly nonlinear analysis method that enables breaking and turbulence analysis. As a result, the distribution characteristics of the LCS such as water level, water flow, and turbulent kinetic energy were examined and discussed, then they were carefully compared and examined in the case of submerged breakwaters. The study results indicate that there is a difference between the flow patterns of longshore current near the shoreline, the spatial distribution of longshore and on-offshore directions of mean turbulent kinetic energy in case of submerged breakwaters and LCS. It is predicted that the difference in these results leads to the difference in sand movement.

The lnfluence of Weighting Value derived by the Regression Equation on the Result of Vulnerability Assessment (회귀식에 의해 도출된 가중치가 취약성 평가에 미치는 영향)

  • Yoo, Somin;Lee, Woo-kyun;Chae, Yeo-ra;Kwak, Hanbin;Kim, Moon-Il;Jung, Raesun
    • Journal of Climate Change Research
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    • v.4 no.4
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    • pp.331-348
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    • 2013
  • The frequency and intensity of abnormal climate caused by climate change is increasing in Korea. Also, the amount of damage from disaster is increasing rapidly. The research on vulnerability assessment analyzes environmentally, socially and economically vulnerable indicators and is ongoing to reduce the intensity of damage and establish adaptation policies for climate change. Therefore, in this study, we assessed vulnerability using weighting value derived by the regression equation. There are 3 evaluation items : vulnerability assessment for farmland erosion to flood, vulnerability assessment for health to heat wave, vulnerability assessment for forest fire to drought. For this study, indicators for each sectors were selected and spatial data for each sectors were established using GIS program. Results showed that vulnerability to heat wave was more affected by climate factors. On the other hand, vulnerability to flood and drought was more affected by social-economic factors. Then, to analysis efficiency of the regression analysis, vulnerability result was compared between the existing vulnerability research with no weighting applied and the vulnerability research with the influence of weighting value derived by the regression. This study showed that the regression analysis is efficient to provide practical and feasible alternatives in terms of planning climate change adaptation policies and it is expected to be utilized for vulnerability assessment in the future.

Numerical Analysis of the Grand Circulation Process of Mang-Bang Beach-Centered on the Shoreline Change from 2017. 4. 26 to 2018. 4. 20 (맹방해빈의 일 년에 걸친 대순환과정 수치해석 - 2017.4.26부터 2018.4.20까지의 해안선 변화를 중심으로)

  • Cho, Young Jin;Kim, In Ho;Cho, Yong Jun
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.31 no.3
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    • pp.101-114
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    • 2019
  • In this study, we carry out the numerical simulation to trace the yearly shoreline change of Mang-Bang beach, which is suffering from erosion problem. We obtain the basic equation (One Line Model for shoreline) for the numerical simulation by assuming that the amount of shoreline retreat or advance is balanced by the net influx of longshore and cross-shore sediment into the unit discretized shoreline segment. In doing so, the energy flux model for the longshore sediment transport rate is also evoked. For the case of cross sediment transport, the modified Bailard's model (1981) by Cho and Kim (2019) is utilized. At each time step of the numerical simulation, we adjust a closure depth according to pertinent wave conditions based on the Hallermeier's analytical model (1978) having its roots on the Shield's parameter. Numerical results show that from 2017.4.26 to 2017.10.15 during which swells are prevailing, a shoreline advances due to the sustained supply of cross-shore sediment. It is also shown that a shoreline temporarily retreats due to the erosion by the yearly highest waves sequentially occurring from mid-October to the end of October, and is followed by gradual recovery of shoreline as high waves subdue and swells prevail. It is worth mentioning that great yearly circulation of shoreline completes when a shoreline retreats due to the erosion by the higher waves occurring from mid-March to the end of March. The great yearly circulation of shoreline mentioned above can also be found in the measured locations of shoreline on 2017.4.5, 2017.9.7, 2017.11.7, 2018.3.14. However, numerically simulated amount of shoreline retreat or advance is more significant than the physically measured one, and it should be noted that these discrepancies become more substantial for the case of RUN II where a closure depth is sustained to be as in the most morphology models like the Genesis (Hanson and Kraus, 1989).

A Study on a Quantitative Method in Estimating Forest Effects for Streamflow Regulation (II) - Mainly Dealing with Application of Coefficient for Slope Roughness - (삼림이수기능(森林理水機能)의 정량적(定量的) 평가방법(平價方法)에 관한 연구(硏究)(II) - 조도계수(粗度係數)의 응용(應用)을 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • Lee, Heon Ho
    • Journal of Korean Society of Forest Science
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    • v.81 no.4
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    • pp.337-345
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    • 1992
  • In this research, a kinematic wave model was applied for the runoff analysis, Regulation of streamflow was estimated by the calibration of roughness coefficient as a parameter. The data analyzed were obtained from Ananomiya and Shirasaka experimental basins at Tokyo University Forest in Aichi. Estimation methods and characteristics of roughness coefficient as a evaluation method of hydrological function of forest are summarized as follows ; 1. Roughness coefficient($N_s$) indicates the resistance of hillslope to the flowing water of surface runoff. There exists an hypothesis that resistance of hillslope to flowing water increase with the growth forest and development of the $A_o$ layer. 2. Roughness coefficient($N_s$) was estimated by the parameter when the stream direct runoff was calculated by using the kinematic wave. 3. Secular change of '$N_s$' in ananomiya has a curve which has an upper limit and increases exponentially near the limit. The curve quickly increased from 1935 to 1945 when results of afforestation for erosion control were thought to be effective. On the other hand, slight increase of '$N_s$' in Shirasaka indicates that there was not such a big change in the surface of soil layer. 4. The increase of '$N_s$' was related with decrease of direct runoff and increase of base flow. It was recognized that the rate of direct runoff decreased with the improvement of forest physiognomy and the rate of base flow was increased. But absolute value of water runoff per one storm decreased in chronological order.

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Preliminary Study on the Development of a Platform for the Optimization of Beach Stabilization Measures Against Beach Erosion III - Centering on the Effects of Random Waves Occurring During the Unit Observation Period, and Infra-Gravity Waves of Bound Mode, and Boundary Layer Streaming on the Sediment Transport (해역별 최적 해빈 안정화 공법 선정 Platform 개발을 위한 기초연구 III - 단위 관측 기간에 발생하는 불규칙 파랑과 구속모드의 외중력파, 경계층 Streaming이 횡단표사에 미치는 영향을 중심으로)

  • Chang, Pyong Sang;Cho, Yong Jun
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.31 no.6
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    • pp.434-449
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    • 2019
  • In this study, we develop a new cross-shore sediment module which takes the effect of infra-gravity waves of bound mode, and boundary layer streaming on the sediment transport into account besides the well-known asymmetry and under-tow. In doing so, the effect of individual random waves occurring during the unit observation period of 1 hr on sediment transport is also fully taken into account. To demonstrate how the individual random waves would affect the sediment transport, we numerically simulate the non-linear shoaling process of random wavers over the beach of uniform slope. Numerical results show that with the consistent frequency Boussinesq Eq. the application of which is lately extended to surf zone, we could simulate the saw-tooth profile observed without exception over the surf zone, infra-gravity waves of bound mode, and boundary-layer streaming accurately enough. It is also shown that when yearly highest random waves are modeled by the equivalent nonlinear uniform waves, the maximum cross-shore transport rate well exceeds the one where the randomness is fully taken into account as much as three times. Besides, in order to optimize the free parameter K involved in the long-shore sediment module, we carry out the numerical simulation to trace the yearly shoreline change of Mang-Bang beach from 2017.4.26 to 2018.4.20 as well, and proceeds to optimize the K by comparing the traced shoreline change with the measured one. Numerical results show that the optimized K for Mang-Bang beach would be 0.17. With K = 0.17, via yearly grand circulation process comprising severe erosion by consecutively occurring yearly highest waves at the end of October, and gradual recovery over the winter and spring by swell, the advance of shore-line at the northern and southern ends of Mang-Bang beach by 18 m, and the retreat of shore-line by 2.4 m at the middle of Mang-Bang beach can be successfully duplicated in the numerical simulation.

Distribution Patterns and Provenance of Surficial Sediments from Ieodo and Adjacent Sea (이어도와 주변 해역의 표층퇴적물 분포와 퇴적물 기원지)

  • Chang, Tae Soo;Jeong, Jong Ok;Lee, Eunil;Byun, Do-Seong;Lee, HwaYoung;Son, Chang Soo
    • Journal of the Korean earth science society
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    • v.41 no.6
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    • pp.588-598
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    • 2020
  • The seafloor geology of Ieodo, a submerged volcanic island, has been poorly understood, although this place has gained considerable attention for ocean and climate studies. The main purpose of the study is to understand and elucidate types, distribution patterns and provenance of the surficial sediments in and around the Ieodo area. For this purpose, 25 seafloor sediments were collected using a box-corer, these having been analyzed for grain sizes. XRD (X-ray Diffraction) analysis of fine-grained sediments was conducted for characterizing clay minerals. The peak of Ieodo exists in the northern region, while in the southern area, shore platforms occur. The extensive platform in the south results from severe erosion by strong waves. However, the northern peak still survived from differential weathering. Grain size analyses indicated that gravels and gravelly sands with skeletons and shells were distributed predominantly on the volcanic apron and shore platform. Muddy sediments were found along the Ieodo and the adjacent deeper seafloor. Based on the analysis of clay mineral composition, illites were the most abundant in fine muds, followed by chlorites and kaolinites. The ratio plots of clay minerals for the provenance discrimination suggested that the Ieodo muds were likely to be derived from the Yangtze River (Changjiang River). As a consequence, gravels and gravelly sands with bioclastics may be supplied from the Ieodo volcanic apron by erosion processes. Wave activities might play a major role in transportation and sedimentation. In contrast, fine muds were assumed to be derived from the inflow of the Yangtze River, particularly in summer. Deposition in the Ieodo area is, therefore, probably controlled by the inflow from the Changjiang Dilute Water and summer typhoons from the south.

Tafoni Geomorphic Development in the Western Coast of Dongdo of Dokdo, Korea (독도 동도 서쪽 해안의 타포니 지형 발달)

  • Hwang, Sang-Ill;Park, Kyung-Geun
    • Journal of the Korean association of regional geographers
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    • v.13 no.4
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    • pp.422-437
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    • 2007
  • Dokdo has historical and political meaning in relation to the territorial problems with Japan. The area can be the main factor to explain the formation and development process of East-Sea as exposure volcanic island at East-Sea with Ulreong-island. Accordingly, it also has an important meaning of physical geography aspects In this research, it is perceived the geomorphological development process of slope due to the salt weathering which is considered as the most important factor to understand whole geomorphology of Dokdo. And researched how a geomorphology of this sort affects to animal and plants. The peculiar geomorphology is tafoni which is a weathering geomorphology and one of the remarkable geomorphology in preservation of Dokdo. Tafoni at west part of Dongdo is distributed intensively near shoreline which is composed tuff. The shape of tafoni is mainly massive, circle and oval in Massive tuff breccia layer also is formed toward horizontality bedding direction in Bedded lapilli tuff. Tafoni in Dokdo is constituted after middle of Holocene. This fact can be proved by ranging at surface of sea-cliff which is formed wave erosion after middle of Holocene sea-level reaching to present level. Tafoni is also the most contribute factor of geomorphology dissection of Dokdo as it is eroded the bed rock with salt weathering. In bottom part of tafoni it has an important function for habitat of birds. Herbaceous plants are on it. To procrastinate of bed rock dissection by growth of Tafoni, conservation of vegetation and soil are most important factor.

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