• 한국안전학회지
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• 제31권2호
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• pp.70-75
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• 2016

Recently, coastal erosion has been widely in progress and the erosion level becomes also serious in the world wide, espeically in East Sea in Korea. Since it would threaten the life, economics and security risk, it is necessary to much comprehend the reason why coastal erosion has occurred according to the geographical characteristics. Meanwhile, analysis about hydrodynamics of the solitary wave such as tunami in swash zone is needed for the best management practice of coastal erosion. Solitary wave is nonlinear wave and can be reproduced in the laboratoy scale by openning suddenly a sluice gate with water head difference, of which methodology was found in the literature, since it could be simply determined by a significant wave height. Thus, in this sutdy the generation of solitary wave was experimentalized using the sluice gate. Experimental conditions were classified by angles of a beach slope, a water level in a beach slope and a difference of water level between in a headtank and a channel bed. Two kinds of dimensionless analyses based from experimental results in this study were presented; the first analysis indicates nondimensionalization between the wave height and the water level in a beach slope in order to investigate characteristics of solitary wave approaching the beach. The second shows the other nondimensionalization between dynamic pressure and static pressure on a beach slope to investigate the relationship between wave breaking and wave pressure. Under the same conditions as laboratory experiments, the numerical results computed with a SWAN model embedded in FLOW 3D were compared in terms of wave height, and pressure on the beach slope, which shows good agreement with each other. Overall results from this study could provide fundamental hydraulic data for the reliabile verification of numerical simulation results about coastal erosion in swash zone caused by solitary waves.

• 수산해양교육연구
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• 제28권4호
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• pp.947-956
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• 2016

This study analysed the documents of Sea Area Utilization Consultation of JongChun and ApHae located in West Coast of Korea and NaJeong located in East Coast of Korea in order to find out problems of site surveys and numerical simulations for coastal erosion projects of ocean physics, and suggested the improvement way to go. Current especially like wave-induced current is the one of the important external forces to handle coastal erosion but underestimated in the west coast. In case of east coast the various tests including wave-induced current were conducted but less efficient to find out the reasons of coastal erosion. The stiffness structure to protect coastal line like beach made the secondary erosion by using them without sufficient analysis for the erosion. In order to consult a Sea Area Utilization Consultation those are needed to review the scenarios for external forces such as wave and tidal currents, the site surveys for external forces, the net sediment analysis for years, the long periods of monitoring, and the guide line and revision of the rule for coastal erosion.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제33권6호
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• pp.526-534
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• 2019

The average coastline and the erosion control line introduced as the management coastline, and the average shoreline (MSL) was established from the observed coastline. Also, the median grain size and the wave height of 30-years return period were applied. The erosion control line (ECL) was established through the model, HaeSaBeeN. These two lines set the coastline for evaluation. Based on the observed monitoring data along the coastline, the 1-day variation according to the normal distribution was used to estimate the regional variation, and the width of the erosion was calculated by applying the median grain size (D₅₀) and the wave height of 30-years return period through the high-wave coastal erosion width model, i.e., HaeSaBeeN.

• 한국환경과학회지
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• 제15권9호
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• pp.881-886
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• 2006

The purpose of this research is to examine the beach erosion prevention capability of submerged breakwaters under wave energy condition. To accomplish this objective, the computational domain was divided into two do-mains : the large and the detailed domain for the Song-Do beach. For each computational domain, numerical models for calculating transformation, wave induced current and beach erosion were used and also these numerical models were carefully applied to three experimental cases such as 1) the present beach condition, 2) the condition for which submerged breakwaters are installed about 240m from the shoreline of beach enlarged by artificial nourishments. The results of this research show that if storm waves attack the present beach, the erosion occurs widely all over the beach. However, when the submerged breakwaters are installed in addition to the artificial nourishments, storm waves can be adequately controlled and strong wave induced currents occur only around the submerged breakwaters resulting in the beach evolution appearing locally only at the western end of the beach.

• 한국연안방재학회지
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.111-120
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• 2019

In coastal morphological modelling, there are a number of input factors: wave height, water depth, sand particle size, bed friction coefficients, coastal structures and so forth. Measurements or estimates of these input data may include uncertainties due to errors by the measurement or hind-casting methods. Therefore, it is necessary to consider the uncertainty of each input data and the range of the uncertainty during the evaluation of numerical results. In this study, three uncertainty factors are considered with regard to the prediction of coastal erosion in Ilsan beach located in Ilsan-dong, Ulsan metropolitan city. Those are wave diffraction effect of XBeach model, wave input scenario and the specification of the coastal structure. For this purpose, the values of mean wave direction, significant wave height and the height of the submerged breakwater were adjusted respectively and the followed numerical results of morphological changes are analyzed. There were erosion dominant patterns as the wave direction is perpendicular to Ilsan beach, the higher significant wave height, and the lower height of the submerged breakwater. Furthermore, the rate of uncertainty impacts among mean wave direction, significant wave height and the height of the submerged breakwater are compared. In the study area, the uncertainty influence by the wave input scenario was the largest, followed by the height of the submerged breakwater and the mean wave direction.

• 한국산학기술학회논문지
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.142-149
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• 2019

본 연구에서는 인천광역시 중구 을왕동 충의휴양소 전면 해역에서의 과거 침식이력 및 현황을 세밀히 조사하고 해안선 침식원인을 찾기 위해 파랑 및 해빈류 등을 조사하여 분석 하였다. 관측결과 유의파고($H_{1/3}$)는 0.07~1.57 m의 범위로 나타났고, 평균값은 0.21 m로 나타났다. 또한 최대파고($H_{max}$)는 0.02-4.76m 범위로 나타났고, 평균값은 0.27 m로 나타났다. 파랑변형 수치모형실험을 통해 법선파고 및 주기를 산정하였고, 50년 빈도 설계파고는 0.82 m~3.75 m의 범위를 나타내었다. 해빈류 실험 결과 이안제 및 도류제 설치 이후 충의 휴양소 해안 부근의 해빈류가 감소하는 경향을 나타냈다. 반면, 마루높이를 5 m까지 높였을 경우에는 큰 변화가 없었지만 8m로 높이면 낮아진 수심의 영향으로 강한 해빈류가 수중방파제 주변에 발생하였다. 또한, 충의휴양소의 주된 침식원인은 외해로부터 입사하는 파랑특성이 백사장 전면에 집중적으로 내습하기 때문이다. 백사장 전면으로 집중되는 파의 변형으로 백사장과 평행하게 흐르는 연안류와 횡단방향으로의 이안류를 추가적으로 유발시킴으로써 연안표사가 전면외해로 이동/유출하기 때문으로 확인할 수 있었다. 본 연구의 결과는 백사장 원상복구 및 효율적인 침식방지시설 선정의 기초자료로 활용될 수 있을 것으로 사료된다.

• Water Engineering Research
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.49-61
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• 2001

A grid-based KIneMatic wave soil-water EROsion and deposition Model(KIMEROM) that predicts temporal variation and spatial distribution of sediment transport in a watershed was developed. This model uses ASCII-formatted map data supported from the regular gridded map of GRASS (U.S. Army CERL, 1993)-GIS(Geographic Information Systems), and generates the distributed results by ASCII-formatted map data. For hydrologic process, the kinematic wave equation and Darcy equation were used to simulated surface and subsurface flow, respectively (Kim, 1998; Kim et al., 1998). For soil erosion process, the physically-based soil erosion concept by Rose and Hairsine (1988) was used to simulate soil-water erosion and deposition. The model adopts single overland flowpath algorithm and simulates surface and subsurface water depth, and sediment concentration at each grid element for a given time increment. The model was tested to a 162.3 $\textrm{km}^2$ watershed located in the tideland reclaimed ares of South Korea. After the hydrologic calibration for two storm events in 1999, the results of sediment transport were presented for the same storm events. The results of temporal variation and spatial distribution of overland flow and sediment areas are shown using GRASS.

• 한국항해항만학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국항해항만학회 2014년도 추계학술대회
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• pp.9-11
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• 2014

연구대상해역인 대천해수욕장은 이상파, 태풍의의 내습시 해빈 전반에 걸친 침식현상이 발생하여 단기영향에 따른 표사제어가 필요하므로 현장조사, 수리모형실험자료 및 수치모델해석을 통해 그 원인과 실태를 분석하였으며, 다양한 대책공법 중에서 양빈, 잠제와 양빈을 병행하는 경우를 현장에서 취할 수 있는 방법으로 선택하였다. 두가지 방안에 대한 수치 실험 결과를 현재여건과 비교하여 최적 설계안을 결정함으로써, 대상해역의 장기적인 모래유실을 방지대책을 수립하는데 기여하고자 하였다.

• 한국관개배수논문집
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.3-18
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• 2012

In recent years, as environmental problems have become great concerns among many people, th loss of beach sand has become one of the highly controversial issue. Major reasons for the beach erosion within the cases of West Coast can be classified as: 1) erosion at Unyeo, Baeksajang beaches are caused by the wave refraction according to the large-scale sand dredging, 2) erosion at Kkotji, Baeksajang, and Unyeo beaches are caused by large-scale embankment construction and the coastal road construction, and 3) erosion at Chollipo and Hakampo beaches are caused by construction of small ports. Erosion in the west coast of Korea coast beach erosion control measures, include groin, zeotube, terraced stone, jetty groin, and beach nourishment. Erosion control measures initially installed to prevent erosion showed a positive effect. However, if there is no continuous source of sand, the effect of measures is fewness.

• 한국지형학회지
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.71-82
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• 2012

이 연구는 태안 파도리 해식애 사면을 대상으로 침식기준목을 이용하여 연간 침식 후퇴율을 산정하고, 계절적 변화의 특성과 원인을 파악하고자 하였다. 연구결과, 해식애는 봄철에서 여름철까지 침식 후퇴율이 증가하였고, 다시 8~10월 사이에 급격히 증가하였는데, 이는 집중호우 및 태풍 등과 같은 극한기후사상의 영향으로 판단된다. 그 후 해식애의 침식 후퇴율은 점차 감소하다가 겨울철에 다시 증가하는데, 이것은 겨울철 폭풍해일과 기반암이 동결 해빙작용을 반복하면서 기계적 풍화가 활발히 진행된 결과이다. 해식애의 침식 후퇴율에 영향을 미치는 요소는 선행강수일수 및 일최대파고이다. 특히, 태풍 및 폭풍해일시 강한 파랑에너지에 의해 침식이 가속화되는 것으로 나타났다. 연구지역의 지난 2년간(2010년 5월~2012년 5월) 연간 침식 후퇴율은 각 지점마다 지형 지질학적 특성이 다르지만, 대략 44~60cm/yr 정도이다. 이러한 침식 후퇴율은 기존 연구결과보다 증가하였는데, 그 원인은 극한기후사상에 의한 해안 침식력이 강화되었기 때문으로 판단된다. 연구지역의 해식애 침식 후퇴과정의 특징은 해성작용(파랑에너지) 이외에도 육상의 삭박작용이 함께 작용하여 침식이 진행되고 있다.