• Journal of the Korean Society of Safety
• /
• v.31 no.2
• /
• pp.70-75
• /
• 2016

Recently, coastal erosion has been widely in progress and the erosion level becomes also serious in the world wide, espeically in East Sea in Korea. Since it would threaten the life, economics and security risk, it is necessary to much comprehend the reason why coastal erosion has occurred according to the geographical characteristics. Meanwhile, analysis about hydrodynamics of the solitary wave such as tunami in swash zone is needed for the best management practice of coastal erosion. Solitary wave is nonlinear wave and can be reproduced in the laboratoy scale by openning suddenly a sluice gate with water head difference, of which methodology was found in the literature, since it could be simply determined by a significant wave height. Thus, in this sutdy the generation of solitary wave was experimentalized using the sluice gate. Experimental conditions were classified by angles of a beach slope, a water level in a beach slope and a difference of water level between in a headtank and a channel bed. Two kinds of dimensionless analyses based from experimental results in this study were presented; the first analysis indicates nondimensionalization between the wave height and the water level in a beach slope in order to investigate characteristics of solitary wave approaching the beach. The second shows the other nondimensionalization between dynamic pressure and static pressure on a beach slope to investigate the relationship between wave breaking and wave pressure. Under the same conditions as laboratory experiments, the numerical results computed with a SWAN model embedded in FLOW 3D were compared in terms of wave height, and pressure on the beach slope, which shows good agreement with each other. Overall results from this study could provide fundamental hydraulic data for the reliabile verification of numerical simulation results about coastal erosion in swash zone caused by solitary waves.

• Journal of Fisheries and Marine Sciences Education
• /
• v.28 no.4
• /
• pp.947-956
• /
• 2016

This study analysed the documents of Sea Area Utilization Consultation of JongChun and ApHae located in West Coast of Korea and NaJeong located in East Coast of Korea in order to find out problems of site surveys and numerical simulations for coastal erosion projects of ocean physics, and suggested the improvement way to go. Current especially like wave-induced current is the one of the important external forces to handle coastal erosion but underestimated in the west coast. In case of east coast the various tests including wave-induced current were conducted but less efficient to find out the reasons of coastal erosion. The stiffness structure to protect coastal line like beach made the secondary erosion by using them without sufficient analysis for the erosion. In order to consult a Sea Area Utilization Consultation those are needed to review the scenarios for external forces such as wave and tidal currents, the site surveys for external forces, the net sediment analysis for years, the long periods of monitoring, and the guide line and revision of the rule for coastal erosion.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
• /
• v.33 no.6
• /
• pp.526-534
• /
• 2019

The average coastline and the erosion control line introduced as the management coastline, and the average shoreline (MSL) was established from the observed coastline. Also, the median grain size and the wave height of 30-years return period were applied. The erosion control line (ECL) was established through the model, HaeSaBeeN. These two lines set the coastline for evaluation. Based on the observed monitoring data along the coastline, the 1-day variation according to the normal distribution was used to estimate the regional variation, and the width of the erosion was calculated by applying the median grain size (D₅₀) and the wave height of 30-years return period through the high-wave coastal erosion width model, i.e., HaeSaBeeN.

• Journal of Environmental Science International
• /
• v.15 no.9
• /
• pp.881-886
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this research is to examine the beach erosion prevention capability of submerged breakwaters under wave energy condition. To accomplish this objective, the computational domain was divided into two do-mains : the large and the detailed domain for the Song-Do beach. For each computational domain, numerical models for calculating transformation, wave induced current and beach erosion were used and also these numerical models were carefully applied to three experimental cases such as 1) the present beach condition, 2) the condition for which submerged breakwaters are installed about 240m from the shoreline of beach enlarged by artificial nourishments. The results of this research show that if storm waves attack the present beach, the erosion occurs widely all over the beach. However, when the submerged breakwaters are installed in addition to the artificial nourishments, storm waves can be adequately controlled and strong wave induced currents occur only around the submerged breakwaters resulting in the beach evolution appearing locally only at the western end of the beach.

• Journal of Coastal Disaster Prevention
• /
• v.6 no.3
• /
• pp.111-120
• /
• 2019

In coastal morphological modelling, there are a number of input factors: wave height, water depth, sand particle size, bed friction coefficients, coastal structures and so forth. Measurements or estimates of these input data may include uncertainties due to errors by the measurement or hind-casting methods. Therefore, it is necessary to consider the uncertainty of each input data and the range of the uncertainty during the evaluation of numerical results. In this study, three uncertainty factors are considered with regard to the prediction of coastal erosion in Ilsan beach located in Ilsan-dong, Ulsan metropolitan city. Those are wave diffraction effect of XBeach model, wave input scenario and the specification of the coastal structure. For this purpose, the values of mean wave direction, significant wave height and the height of the submerged breakwater were adjusted respectively and the followed numerical results of morphological changes are analyzed. There were erosion dominant patterns as the wave direction is perpendicular to Ilsan beach, the higher significant wave height, and the lower height of the submerged breakwater. Furthermore, the rate of uncertainty impacts among mean wave direction, significant wave height and the height of the submerged breakwater are compared. In the study area, the uncertainty influence by the wave input scenario was the largest, followed by the height of the submerged breakwater and the mean wave direction.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
• /
• v.20 no.6
• /
• pp.142-149
• /
• 2019

In this study, the past erosion history and current status in the CHUNG-UI beach of Eulwang-dong, Jung-gu, Incheon-Si, South Korea were investigated and analyzed the wave with wave-induced current to investigate the causes of coastal erosion. As a result, the significant wave height ($H_{1/3}$) was in the range of 0.07~1.57 m and the mean value was 0.21 m. The maximum wave height ($H_{max}$) was in the range of 0.02-4.76m and the mean value was 0.27m. The vertical wave height and cycles were estimated through numerical model experiments of wave transformation. The 50-year frequency design wave height ranged from 0.82m to 3.75m. As a result of the experiment of wave-induced current, wave-induced current in the CHUNG-UI beach was decreased after the installation of the Detached breakwater and the Jetty. On the other hand, when the crest elevation was increased up to 5 m, there was no significant change, but when the crest elevation was increased to 8m, strong wave-induced current occurred around the submerged breakwaters due to lowered depth of water. In addition, the main erosion of the CHUNG-UI beach is due to the intensive invasion of the wave characteristics coming from the outer sea into the white sandy beach. The deformation of the wave centered on the front of the sandy beach caused additional longshore currents flowing parallel to the sandy beach and rip currents in the transverse direction, thus confirming that the longshore sediment was moved out of the front and out of the sea. The results of this study can be used as preliminary data for the recovery of the sand and the selection of efficient erosion prevention facilities.

• Water Engineering Research
• /
• v.2 no.1
• /
• pp.49-61
• /
• 2001

A grid-based KIneMatic wave soil-water EROsion and deposition Model(KIMEROM) that predicts temporal variation and spatial distribution of sediment transport in a watershed was developed. This model uses ASCII-formatted map data supported from the regular gridded map of GRASS (U.S. Army CERL, 1993)-GIS(Geographic Information Systems), and generates the distributed results by ASCII-formatted map data. For hydrologic process, the kinematic wave equation and Darcy equation were used to simulated surface and subsurface flow, respectively (Kim, 1998; Kim et al., 1998). For soil erosion process, the physically-based soil erosion concept by Rose and Hairsine (1988) was used to simulate soil-water erosion and deposition. The model adopts single overland flowpath algorithm and simulates surface and subsurface water depth, and sediment concentration at each grid element for a given time increment. The model was tested to a 162.3 $\textrm{km}^2$ watershed located in the tideland reclaimed ares of South Korea. After the hydrologic calibration for two storm events in 1999, the results of sediment transport were presented for the same storm events. The results of temporal variation and spatial distribution of overland flow and sediment areas are shown using GRASS.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
• /
• 2014.10a
• /
• pp.9-11
• /
• 2014

As Daecheon beach, which is the study area, has problem of erosion and loss of most beach under the extraordinary wave during the typhoon event, it is necessary to apply erosion control measures for short term impact. Therefore, we analyzed the status and reason of the erosion by field survey, collection of hydraulic model test, and numerical model experiment. For the erosion control measure, we adopted beach feeding and submerged reef method available at that site among various counter measures. Numerical analyses were made for both beach feeding only and beach feeding with submerged reefs and these were compared with the present status to find out the optimum design and to contribute for preparing a long term plan of beach loss protection.

• KCID journal
• /
• v.19 no.1
• /
• pp.3-18
• /
• 2012

In recent years, as environmental problems have become great concerns among many people, th loss of beach sand has become one of the highly controversial issue. Major reasons for the beach erosion within the cases of West Coast can be classified as: 1) erosion at Unyeo, Baeksajang beaches are caused by the wave refraction according to the large-scale sand dredging, 2) erosion at Kkotji, Baeksajang, and Unyeo beaches are caused by large-scale embankment construction and the coastal road construction, and 3) erosion at Chollipo and Hakampo beaches are caused by construction of small ports. Erosion in the west coast of Korea coast beach erosion control measures, include groin, zeotube, terraced stone, jetty groin, and beach nourishment. Erosion control measures initially installed to prevent erosion showed a positive effect. However, if there is no continuous source of sand, the effect of measures is fewness.

• Journal of The Geomorphological Association of Korea
• /
• v.19 no.3
• /
• pp.71-82
• /
• 2012

This research was carried out to estimate annual erosion and retreat rates by using datum-point and to identify the characteristics and causes of seasonal variations of sea-cliff slope in Pado-ri, Taean-gun. In the result, the erosion and retreat rates of sea-cliff were increased from spring to summer. The rates were increased rapidly between August and October, caused by the effects of extreme weather events such as severe rainstorms and typhoons, etc. Since then, the erosion and retreat rates of sea-cliff were decreased gradually, but the rates were increased again in winter due to the storm surge and mechanical weathering resulting from the repeated freezing and thawing actions of bed rocks. The factors that affect erosion and retreat rates of sea-cliff include the number of days with antecedent participation and daily maximum wave height. In particular, it turned out that the erosion is accelerated by strong wave energy during storm surges and typhoons. The annual erosion and retreat rates of study area for the past two years(from May 2010 to May 2012) were approximately 44~60cm/yr in condition of differences in geomorphological and geological characteristics at each point. These erosion and retreat rates were found to be higher than results of previous researches. This is caused by coastal erosion forces strengthened by extreme weather events. The erosion and retreat process of sea-cliff in the study area is composed by denudation of onshore areas in addition to marine erosion(wave energy).