• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1-6
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• 2003

Wave energy dissipation and energy transfer between wave components, during the directional wave breakings, are investigated. Directional incipient and plunging breakers were generated by focusing the multi-frequency and multi-directional wave components at a designed location, based on a constant wave amplitude and a constant wave steepness frequency spectrum. The time series of surface wave elevation was measured at 9 different locations around the wave focusing point, using a wave gauge array. In order to examine the variation of the directional spreading function, the horizontal velocity of fluid motion was also measured. By comparing energy spectrums, before and after the breaking, the characteristics of energy dissipation and energy transfer, caused by wave breaking, are investigated. Their dependencies on directionality, as well as frequency, are analyzed. The breakings significantly dissipate wave energy, through energy transfer, in the upper region of the peak-frequency band, while enhancing wave energy in the low-frequency band.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.120-127
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• 1998

An Elliptic model for calculating the combined refraction/diffraction of monochromatic linear waves is developed, including a term which allows for the dissipation of wave energy. Conjugate gradient method is employed as a solution technique. Wave height variations are calculated for localized circular and rectangular dissipation areas. It is shown that the numerical results agree very well with analytical solution in the case of circular damping region. The localized dissipation area creates a shadow region of low wave energy and the recovery of wave height by diffraction occurs very slowly with distance behind the damping region.

• East Asian mathematical journal
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.173-187
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• 2003

We study decay estimates of the energy for the nonlinear wave equation in the whole space. We note that the method of proof is based on the multiplier technique and on the unique continuation, and no geometrical condition is imposed on the boundary.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.303-312
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• 2007

There is still a controversy going on about how to model energy dissipation due to breaking over frequency domain. In this study, we unveil the exact structure of energy dissipation using stochastic wave breaking model. It turns out that contrary to our present understanding, energy dissipation is cubically distributed over frequency domain. The verification of proposed model is conducted using the acquired data during SUPERTANK Laboratory Data Collection Project (Krauss et al., 1992). For further verification, we numerically simulate the nonlinear shoaling process of Conoidal wave over a beach of uniform slope, and obtain very promising results from the viewpoint of a skewness and asymmetry of wave field, usually regarded as the most fastidious parameter to satisfy.

• Journal of Industrial Technology
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• v.10
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• pp.69-72
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• 1990

In this paper the numerical method for the study of wave reflection from and transmission through submerged permeable breakwaters using the boundary element method is developed. The numerical analysis technique is based on the wave pressure function instead of velocity potential because it is difficult to define the velocity potential in the each region arising the energy dissipation. Also, the non-linear energy dissipation within the submerged porous structure is simulated by introducing the linear dissipation coefficient and the tag mass coefficient equivalent to the non-linear energy dissipation. For the validity of this analysis technique, the numerical results obtained by the present boundary element method are compared with those obtained by the other computation method. Good agreements are obtained and so the validity of the present numerical analysis technique is proved.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.73-78
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• 2010

Wave energy is dissipated mainly by friction on the seabed until the waves reach the surf zone. Many researchers have investigated the mechanism of wave friction and the bottom shear stress induced by wave motion at a certain point is now well estimated by introducing the wave friction factor related to the near bed velocity given by linear wave theory. The variation of wave energy or wave height over a long distance can be, however, estimated by an iteration process when the propagation of waves is strongly influenced by bed friction. In the present study simple semi-theoretical equation has been developed to compute the variation of wave height for the condition of wave propagation on a constant beach slope. The ratio of wave height is determined by the product of shoalng factor and wave height friction factor (frictional wave energy dissipation factor). The wave height estimated by the new equation is compared with the wave height estimated by the solution of numerical integration for the condition that the waves propagate on a constant slope.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.13 no.2 s.32
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• pp.116-128
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• 1999

A deep water wave prediction model applicable to the East Sea is presnted. This model incorporates rediative transter of energy specrum, atmospheric input form the wind, nonlinear interaction, and energy dissipation by white capping. The propagation scheme by Gadd shows satisfactory results and the characteristics of the nonlinear interaction is simulated well by discrete interaction approximatiion. The application of the model to the sea around the Korean Peninsula shows reasonable agreement with the observation.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.135-140
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• 1995

The procedure of wave energy dissipation due to breaking has been investigated with trains of the regular wave. To obtain the data for wave breaking and its deformation, experiments have been conducted by utilizing a horizontal step adjoining to a combined slope of 1/20 and 1/10. After breaking the wave height decreases by dissipation but attains a stable value at some distance from the breaking point Experimental results show that the stable wave is considerably affected by the wave period. The study gives the general form of stable wave height A new one-dimensional wave deformation model is proposed. being coupled with an approximated shoaling coefficient before wave breaking and the new energy dissipation term after breaking. It was compared with the experimental data. It predicts well the wave height deformation before and after wave breaking even on the abrupt change of the depth.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.1-16
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• 2021

Experimental and numerical investigations were conducted to study the performance of a surface-fixed horizontal porous wave barrier in regular waves. The characteristics of the reflection and transmission coefficients, energy dissipation, and vertical wave force were examined versus different porosities of the barrier. Numerical simulations based on 3D Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes equations with standard low-Re k-ε turbulent closure and volume of fluid approach were accomplished and compared with the experimental results conducted in a 2D wave tank. Experimental measurements and numerical simulations were shown to be in satisfactory agreement. The qualitative wave behavior propagating over a horizontal porous barrier such as wave run-up, wave breaking, air entrapment, jet flow, and vortex generation was reproduced by CFD computation. Through the discrete harmonic decomposition of the vertical wave force on a wave barrier, the nonlinear characteristics were revealed quantitatively. It was concluded that the surface-fixed horizontal barrier is more effective in dissipating wave energy in the short wave period region and more energy conversion was observed from the first harmonic to higher harmonics with the increase of porosity. The present numerical approach will provide a predictive tool for an accurate and efficient design of the surface-fixed horizontal porous wave barrier.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fisheries and Ocean Technology
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• v.49 no.2
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• pp.144-152
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• 2013

In an effort to find the optimum porous of Taewoo through the mathematical model 2 - dimensional tank water experiment among the approached to a problem related to ocean engineering, this study analyzed the porosity by dividing it into 9 cases. As the wave penetrates through the longitudinal porous of the Taewoo model, it was found that there is a wave energy loss because of the phenomenon of the separation of the porous due to the eddy. Looking into the general tendency based on the wave-height meter (probe) data, it was found that the shorter wavelength and higher frequency area, the more reflection coefficients increased, but in contrast, the longer wavelength and lower frequency area, the transmission coefficients showed the increasing trend and energy dissipation was in a similar way with reflection coefficients. In addition, it was found that the bigger the porosity was, the narrower distribution range of reflection coefficients was, and the more its average value decreased. On the other hand the transmission coefficients in direct opposition to reflection was found to show the wider range and the more gradual increase in the average value as porosity was the bigger around the average value. In contrast, energy dissipation rate was found to increase linearly as porosity increased the more around the porosity of 0.2518 but it decreased gradually around the peak point. Through the above results, it is judged that the porous of optimum in the longitudinal direction of the Taewoo model perforated plate was about 2.6cm because it was found that the porosity which produced the lowest reflection and transmission coefficient and the highest energy dissipation. As a result of comparing this to the case where there was no porosity at all, it showed the function of wave absorbing about 31.60%.