• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1-6
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• 2003

Wave energy dissipation and energy transfer between wave components, during the directional wave breakings, are investigated. Directional incipient and plunging breakers were generated by focusing the multi-frequency and multi-directional wave components at a designed location, based on a constant wave amplitude and a constant wave steepness frequency spectrum. The time series of surface wave elevation was measured at 9 different locations around the wave focusing point, using a wave gauge array. In order to examine the variation of the directional spreading function, the horizontal velocity of fluid motion was also measured. By comparing energy spectrums, before and after the breaking, the characteristics of energy dissipation and energy transfer, caused by wave breaking, are investigated. Their dependencies on directionality, as well as frequency, are analyzed. The breakings significantly dissipate wave energy, through energy transfer, in the upper region of the peak-frequency band, while enhancing wave energy in the low-frequency band.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.120-127
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• 1998

An Elliptic model for calculating the combined refraction/diffraction of monochromatic linear waves is developed, including a term which allows for the dissipation of wave energy. Conjugate gradient method is employed as a solution technique. Wave height variations are calculated for localized circular and rectangular dissipation areas. It is shown that the numerical results agree very well with analytical solution in the case of circular damping region. The localized dissipation area creates a shadow region of low wave energy and the recovery of wave height by diffraction occurs very slowly with distance behind the damping region.

• Journal of Industrial Technology
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• v.14
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• pp.101-107
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• 1994

This study is to investigate harbor oscillation phenomenon according to combination of the wall structures by model experiment in a three dimensional wave basin. Six different types of wall combination were chosen through combination of erect wall, erect dissipation block, and sand beach, wave height at selected points in the harbor were measured by electronic wave gage. Test results show that the wall structure composed solely of erect walls showed generally highest harbor oscillation. Since natural beach shows lower reflection than erect dissipation block do, we thought it would be more efficient to use natural beach for improved harbor oscillation. The result showed, however, that the erect dissipation block are more efficient than natural beach to attain less harbor oscillation. The reason seens that the erect dissipation blocks have better capability to control breaking wave on the surface of the structure.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.303-312
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• 2007

There is still a controversy going on about how to model energy dissipation due to breaking over frequency domain. In this study, we unveil the exact structure of energy dissipation using stochastic wave breaking model. It turns out that contrary to our present understanding, energy dissipation is cubically distributed over frequency domain. The verification of proposed model is conducted using the acquired data during SUPERTANK Laboratory Data Collection Project (Krauss et al., 1992). For further verification, we numerically simulate the nonlinear shoaling process of Conoidal wave over a beach of uniform slope, and obtain very promising results from the viewpoint of a skewness and asymmetry of wave field, usually regarded as the most fastidious parameter to satisfy.

• East Asian mathematical journal
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.171-188
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• 2006

We consider the problem of an optimal control of the wave equation with a localized nonlinear dissipation. An optimal control is used to bring the state solutions close to a desired profile under a quadratic cost of control. We establish the existence of solutions of the underlying initial boundary value problem and of an optimal control that minimizes the cost functional. We derive an optimality system by formally differentiating the cost functional with respect to the control and evaluating the result at an optimal control.

• Journal of Industrial Technology
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• v.10
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• pp.69-72
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• 1990

In this paper the numerical method for the study of wave reflection from and transmission through submerged permeable breakwaters using the boundary element method is developed. The numerical analysis technique is based on the wave pressure function instead of velocity potential because it is difficult to define the velocity potential in the each region arising the energy dissipation. Also, the non-linear energy dissipation within the submerged porous structure is simulated by introducing the linear dissipation coefficient and the tag mass coefficient equivalent to the non-linear energy dissipation. For the validity of this analysis technique, the numerical results obtained by the present boundary element method are compared with those obtained by the other computation method. Good agreements are obtained and so the validity of the present numerical analysis technique is proved.

• East Asian mathematical journal
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.173-187
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• 2003

We study decay estimates of the energy for the nonlinear wave equation in the whole space. We note that the method of proof is based on the multiplier technique and on the unique continuation, and no geometrical condition is imposed on the boundary.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.135-140
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• 1995

The procedure of wave energy dissipation due to breaking has been investigated with trains of the regular wave. To obtain the data for wave breaking and its deformation, experiments have been conducted by utilizing a horizontal step adjoining to a combined slope of 1/20 and 1/10. After breaking the wave height decreases by dissipation but attains a stable value at some distance from the breaking point Experimental results show that the stable wave is considerably affected by the wave period. The study gives the general form of stable wave height A new one-dimensional wave deformation model is proposed. being coupled with an approximated shoaling coefficient before wave breaking and the new energy dissipation term after breaking. It was compared with the experimental data. It predicts well the wave height deformation before and after wave breaking even on the abrupt change of the depth.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.73-78
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• 2010

Wave energy is dissipated mainly by friction on the seabed until the waves reach the surf zone. Many researchers have investigated the mechanism of wave friction and the bottom shear stress induced by wave motion at a certain point is now well estimated by introducing the wave friction factor related to the near bed velocity given by linear wave theory. The variation of wave energy or wave height over a long distance can be, however, estimated by an iteration process when the propagation of waves is strongly influenced by bed friction. In the present study simple semi-theoretical equation has been developed to compute the variation of wave height for the condition of wave propagation on a constant beach slope. The ratio of wave height is determined by the product of shoalng factor and wave height friction factor (frictional wave energy dissipation factor). The wave height estimated by the new equation is compared with the wave height estimated by the solution of numerical integration for the condition that the waves propagate on a constant slope.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.27-33
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• 2008

One of the central problems in astudy of the coastal surface wave environment is predicting the transformation of waves as they propagate toward the shore. The transformation is mainly due to the existence of obstacles, such as breakwaters and vertical cylinders. In general, the types of wave transformation can be classified as follows: wave diffraction, reflection, transmission, scattering, radiation, et al. This research dealtwith wave transmission and dissipation problems for two dimensional irregular waves and vertical circular cylinders. Using the unsteady mild slope equation, a numerical model was developed to calculate the reflection and transmission of regular waves from a multiple-row circular breakwater and vertical cylinders. In addition, hydraulic model experiments were conducted with different values for the properties between tire piles and the opening ratio (distances) between the rows of the breakwater. It was found that the transmission coefficients decreased with a decrease in the opening ratio and an increase in the rows of vertical cylinders. A comparison between the results of hydraulic and numerical experiments showed reasonable agreement.