• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.161-189
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• 2016

This paper provides a practical stochastic method by which the maximum equilibrium scour depth around a vertical pile exposed to random waves plus a current on mild slopes can be derived. The approach is based on assuming the waves to be a stationary narrow-band random process, adopting the Battjes and Groenendijk (2000) wave height distribution for mild slopes including the effect of breaking waves, and using the empirical formulas for the scour depth on the horizontal seabed by Sumer and Fredsøe (2002). The present approach is valid for wave-dominant flow conditions. Results for random waves alone and random wave plus currents have been presented and discussed by varying the seabed slope and water depth. An approximate method is also proposed, and comparisons are made with the present stochastic method. For random waves alone it appears that the approximate method can replace the stochastic method, whereas the stochastic method is required for random waves plus currents. Tentative approaches to related random wave-induced scour cases on mild slopes are also suggested.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.275-298
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• 2017

This paper provides a practical stochastic method by which the maximum equilibrium scour depth below a pipeline exposed to random waves plus a current on mild slopes can be derived. The approach is based on assuming the waves to be a stationary narrow-band random process, adopting the Battjes and Groenendijk (2000) wave height distribution for mild slopes including the effect of breaking waves, and using the empirical formulas for the scour depth on the horizontal seabed by Sumer and Fredsøe (1996). The present approach is valid for wave-dominant flow conditions. Results for random waves alone and random wave plus currents have been presented and discussed by varying the seabed slope and water depth. An approximate method is also proposed, and comparisons are made with the present stochastic method. For random waves alone it appears that the approximate method can replace the stochastic method, whereas the stochastic method is required for random waves plus currents. Tentative approaches to related random wave-induced scour cases for random waves alone are also suggested.

• Ecology and Resilient Infrastructure
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.1-7
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• 2014

In this study, a numerical simulation technique for coastal area where wave and current interactions are observed is proposed. Considering the spatial scale of coastal area and the coastal processes such as wave, current, shoaling, wave breaking, and inundation processes, boussinesq equation model is used. A depth-integrated transport model based on the consistent assumption with the boussinesq equation model is used for the prediction of solute transport. To solve the equations, finite volume method with an approximate riemann solver is used. The proposed model is applied to a coastal area and reasonable computational results are obtained.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.77-89
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• 1991

Based on Boussinesq equation, the parabolic approximation equation is used to analyse the propagation of shallow water waves with currents over slowly varying depth. Rip currents (jet-like) occur mainly in shallow waters where the Ursell parameter significatly exceeds the range of application of Stokes wave theory. We employ the nonlinear parabolic approximation equation which is valid for waves of large Ursell parameters and small scale currents. Two types of currents are considered; relatively strong and relatively weak currents. The wave propagating over rip currents on a sloping bottom experiences a shoaling due to the variations of depth and current velocity as well as refraction and diffraction due to the vorticity of currents. Numerical analyses for a nonlinear theory are valid before the breaking point.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.23-32
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• 2004

Specially shaped concrete blocks are used for the armor layer of rubble structure for breakers, seawalls, or other shore protection work. In this study, the hydraulic characteristics of the Modified-Tribar(MTB), which addresses the shortcomings of the Arch-Tribar, and the most widely used Tetrapod(TTP) in Korea are examined through hydraulic model tests. The MTB are much more stable than the TTP, as shown through the stability model tests under non-breaking and non-overtopping condition. The value of the stability coefficient(KD) was obtained at around 30. The model tests show that the TTP random two layers and MTB uniform 1.5 layers have similar effects, but the MTB one layer shows slightly low effects in dissipating wave energy. The TTP random two layer model is the most effective in reducing wave overtopping rate, under overtopping condition, while the MTB uniform one layer and the MTB uniform 1.5 layer models follow respectively.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• 제37권2호
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• pp.49-57
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• 2023

Since Chappelear developed a Fourier approximation method, considerable research efforts have been made. On the other hand, Fourier approximations are unsuitable for deep water waves. The purpose of this study is to provide a Fourier approximation suitable even for deep water waves and a numerical method to determine the Fourier coefficients and the wave properties. In addition, the convergence of the solution was tested in terms of its order. This paper presents a velocity potential satisfying the Laplace equation and the bottom boundary condition (BBC) with a truncated Fourier series. Two wave profiles were derived by applying the potential to the kinematic free surface boundary condition (KFSBC) and the dynamic free surface boundary condition (DFSBC). A set of nonlinear equations was represented to determine the Fourier coefficients, which were derived so that the two profiles are identical at specified phases. The set of equations was solved using Newton's method. This study proved that there is a limit to the series order, i.e., the maximum series order is N=12, and that there is a height limitation of this method which is slightly lower than the Michell theory. The reason why the other Fourier approximations are not suitable for deep water waves is discussed.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 한국해안해양공학회 1996년도 정기학술강연회 발표논문 초록집
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• pp.137-139
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• 1996

It is known that under storm waves, beach will respond by eroding material from the beach Ace and the formation of longshore bar(s) in the vicinity of breaking point. This breakpoint bar is believed to have the effect of slowing down beach erosion by dissipating incoming wave energy and retarding offshore sediment transport. Recently, artificial bin are being proposed as beach protective measures based on this reasoning. (omitted)

• Proceedings of the Korea Concrete Institute Conference
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• 한국콘크리트학회 1997년도 가을 학술발표회 논문집
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• pp.743-748
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• 1997

In this paper, a new type of precast perforated concrete block is presented to be used in the construction of a step seawall. The overtopping rate of the perforated step seawall is lower than that of the traditional non-perforated step seawall. In construction stage, the cost of total construction of the perforated block is cheaper than that of traditional block. The new type of perforated block may be used as an alternative for shore protection facility.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 한국수자원학회 1991년도 수공학논총 제33권
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• pp.220-220
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• 1991

불규칙 파랑장의 frequency spectrum 에 쇄파로 인한 영향을 도입할 수 있는 기법이 제시되었다. 제시된 기법을 심해에서 발달된 방향성불규칙 파랑장이 흐름이 존재하는 해역으로 전이해 갈때 흐름과의 상호작용, 굴절, 천수효과, 및 쇄파로 인해 겪게되는 변화양상을 예측하기위해 두가지 형태의 연안류 즉, shear current, upwelling current 가 존재하는 일정 경사면을 갖는 해역에 대해 각각 적용했다.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 한국수자원학회 2004년도 학술발표회
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• pp.1429-1433
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• 2004

본 연구에서는 쇄파대에서 정현파의 쇄파에 대해 수리모형실험과 수치모형실험을 수행하였다. 수치해석 모형에서는 Reynolds 방정식을 지배방정식으로 사용하고 난류해석을 위해 $k-\varepsilon$모델을 적용하였으며, 자유수면변위를 추적하기 위해 VOF기법을 사용하져다. 사면 및 평탄지형상에서 발생하는 쇄파양상을 서로 다르게 설정하기 위해 수심과 입사파의 주기와 파고를 변화시킨다. 발생된 정현파의 파형은 해석해와 잘 일치하였으며, 입사파와 파고계가 설치된 위치에서 측정된 파고비 $H/H_0$는 관측값과 비교해 본 길과 놀은 정확도를 나타내었다.