• Title/Summary/Keyword: Wave breaking

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Calculation of Wave Deformation and Wave Induced Current around an Underwater Shoal by Boussinesq Equation (Boussinesq 방정식을 이용한 수중 천퇴에서의 파랑변형 및 파랑류 계산)

  • Chun Insik;Seong Sangbong;Kim Guidong;Sim Jaeseol
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.17 no.3
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    • pp.202-212
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    • 2005
  • In the design of an of offshore structure located near an underwater shoal, the same amount of attention given to the wave height may have to be put to the wave induced current as well since some of the wave energy translates to the current. In the present study, two numerical models each based on the nonlinear Boussinesq equation and the linear mild slope equation are applied to calculate the wave deformation and secondly induced current around a shoal. The underwater shoal in Vincent and briggs' experiment (1989) is used here, and all non-breaking wave conditions of the experiment with various monochromatic and unidirectional or multidirectional spectral wave incidences are concerned. Both numerical models clearly showed wave induced currents symmetrically farmed along the centerline over the shoal. The calculated wave heights along a preset line also generally showed very nice agreements with the experimental values.

Experimental Study of Shape and Pressure Characteristics of Solitary Wave generated by Sluice Gate for Various Conditions (Sluice Gate를 이용한 고립파 발생조건에 따른 형상 및 압력 특성에 관한 실험적 연구)

  • Cho, Jae Nam;Kim, Dong Hyun;Lee, Seung Oh
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Safety
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    • v.31 no.2
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    • pp.70-75
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    • 2016
  • Recently, coastal erosion has been widely in progress and the erosion level becomes also serious in the world wide, espeically in East Sea in Korea. Since it would threaten the life, economics and security risk, it is necessary to much comprehend the reason why coastal erosion has occurred according to the geographical characteristics. Meanwhile, analysis about hydrodynamics of the solitary wave such as tunami in swash zone is needed for the best management practice of coastal erosion. Solitary wave is nonlinear wave and can be reproduced in the laboratoy scale by openning suddenly a sluice gate with water head difference, of which methodology was found in the literature, since it could be simply determined by a significant wave height. Thus, in this sutdy the generation of solitary wave was experimentalized using the sluice gate. Experimental conditions were classified by angles of a beach slope, a water level in a beach slope and a difference of water level between in a headtank and a channel bed. Two kinds of dimensionless analyses based from experimental results in this study were presented; the first analysis indicates nondimensionalization between the wave height and the water level in a beach slope in order to investigate characteristics of solitary wave approaching the beach. The second shows the other nondimensionalization between dynamic pressure and static pressure on a beach slope to investigate the relationship between wave breaking and wave pressure. Under the same conditions as laboratory experiments, the numerical results computed with a SWAN model embedded in FLOW 3D were compared in terms of wave height, and pressure on the beach slope, which shows good agreement with each other. Overall results from this study could provide fundamental hydraulic data for the reliabile verification of numerical simulation results about coastal erosion in swash zone caused by solitary waves.

An Amendment Suggestion on the Radio Wave Act for Horizontal Regulatory Framework Based on a Master Plan for Radio Wave Promotion of 2019 (제3차 전파진흥기본계획에 따른 수평적 규제체계로의 전파법 개정 제안)

  • Oh, Byoung-Cheol
    • The Journal of Korean Institute of Electromagnetic Engineering and Science
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    • v.30 no.6
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    • pp.427-437
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    • 2019
  • In January, 2019, the Ministry of Science and ICT announced the third edition of Master Plans for Radio Wave Promotion, effective from 2019 to 2023. The focus of this plan is to implement market based radio wave policy and horizontal regulatory framework. Although it appears to be past due, such change in the radio wave policy is not only fair and structured, but also unprecedented and ground breaking in legality. In order to successfully implement market based radio wave policy and horizontal regulatory framework, we must implement identical radio wave license based on license with consideration and time-limited usage. Through this, efficient distribution of finite radio wave resource may come to reality. Furthermore, there must be an effort to include life style regulation on license into radio wave act in the future.

Wave Reflections from Breakwaters Having Resonance Channels with Perforated Plates (유공판을 갖는 공진수로 내장형 방파제의 반사특성)

  • Kim, Jeongseok;Seo, Jihye;Lee, Younghoon;Lee, Joongwoo;Park, Woosun
    • Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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    • 2013.10a
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    • pp.149-150
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    • 2013
  • Recently, various types of perforated breakwaters are being constructed for protecting offshore storm waves. In general, perforated breakwaters have wave chambers with perforated walls at seaside. Purposes of the wave chambers are to reduce wave reflections and maximum wave forces acting on the breakwater. Impact wave forces due to wave breaking can attack to the perforated wall directly, so the effects have to be considered in the design of the perforated wall carefully. Using resonance channels for wave energy dissipation, a new concept perforated breakwater is proposed, which is free from impact loads. Numerical simulation was made for wave reflection characteristics of the breakwater with respect to major design parameters. Numerical analysis was carried out using the Galerkin's FE model based on the linear potential theory considering energy dissipation on the perforated plate. Variations of wave reflection was investigated according to perforated ratios of perforated plate.

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Development of 3-D Nonlinear Wave Driver Using SPH (SPH을 활용한 3차원 비선형 파랑모형 개발)

  • Cho, Yong Jun;Kim, Gweon Soo
    • KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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    • v.28 no.5B
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    • pp.559-573
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    • 2008
  • In this study, we newly proposed 3-D nonlinear wave driver utilizing the Navier-Stokes Eq. the numerical integration of which is carried out using SPH (Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics), an internal wave generation with the source function of Gaussian distribution and an energy absorbing layer. For the verification of new 3-D nonlinear wave driver, we numerically simulate the sloshing problem within a parabolic water basin triggered by a Gaussian hump and uniformly inclined water surface by Thacker (1981). It turns out that the qualitative behavior of sloshing caused by relaxing the external force which makes a free surface convex or uniformly inclined is successfully simulated even though phase error is visible and an inundation height shrinks as numerical simulation more proceeds. For the more severe test, we also simulate the nonlinear shoaling and refraction over uniform beach of wedge shape. It is shown that numerically simulated waves are less refracted than the linear counterpart by Hamiltonian ray theory due to nonlinearity, energy dissipation at the bottom and side walls, energy loss induced by breaking, and the hydraulic jump occurring when breaking waves encounter a down-rush by the preceding wave.

An Experimental Study on The Uncertainty of Suspended Sediment Pickup on Slope by Solitary Wave (고립파에 의한 경사면에서의 부유사 제승의 불확실성에 관한 실험적 연구)

  • Cho, Jae Nam;Jeong, Seok Il;Lee, Seung Oh
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Safety
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    • v.32 no.6
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    • pp.61-67
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    • 2017
  • Suspended sediment transport plays principal roles in morphological process of natural coastals. It is needed to understand the reason why interaction characteristics of solitary wave and suspended sediment. The present study shows that suspended sediment pickup derived on solitary wave celerity. The 2D prismatic open channel length is 12 m, width is 0.8 m, height is 0.75 m and slope is 1/6. Generation of solitary wave is used by rapidly opening the sluice gate. Bottom surface sediments are laid movable slope section by 0.03 m thickness and experimental sediments are used anathracite and jumoonjin sand. Techniques of suspended sediment pickup rate are designed equipment ASC(Absorptive Suspended sediment Collector). It could directly absorb 5 points suspended sediment by channel water depth. Solitary wave celerity is measued by ADV(Acoustic Doppler Velocimeter). Mounted two video cameras(Model No. : Sony, HDR-XR550) are used to image processing of suspended sediment concentration and turbidity. Suspended sediment pikcup rate(Einstein, 1950) is analyzed to nondimensionalization based on solitary wave celerity. The suspended sediment pickup rate is suggested that more effective plunging breaking type than spilling. The results indicates fundamental suspended sediment transport mechanism between solitary wave celerity and suspended sediment pickup based on laboratory experiments. Finally, the present study suggests that suspended sediment pickup rate by solitary wave is used only characteristics of sediment and solitary wave celerity.

Characteristics of Wave-induced Currents using the SWASH Model in Haeundae Beach (SWASH 모형을 이용한 해운대 해수욕장의 해빈류 특성)

  • Kang, Min Ho;Kim, Jin Seok;Park, Jung Kyu;Lee, Jong Sup
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.27 no.6
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    • pp.382-390
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    • 2015
  • To simulate a complicated hydrodynamic phenomena in the surf zone, the SWASH model is used in Haeundae Beach. The SWASH model is well known as a model competing with the Boussinesq-type model in terms of near shore waves and wave-induced currents modelling. This study is aimed to the detailed analysis of seasonal waves and wave-induced current simulation in Haeundae Beach, where the representative seasonal wave conditions was obtained from hourly measured wave data in 2014 by Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Administration( KHOA). Incident wave conditions were given as irregular waves by JONSWAP spectrum. The calculated seasonal wave-induced current patterns were compared with the field observation data. In summer season, a dominant longshore current toward the east of the beach appears due to the effect of incident waves from the South and the bottom bathymetry, then some rip currents occurs at the central part of the beach. In the winter season, ESE incident waves generates a strong westward longshore currents. However, a weak eastward longshore currents appears at the restricted east side areas of the beach.

Horizontal Wave Pressures on the Crown Wall of Rubble Mound Breakwater under Non-Breaking Condition (경사식방파제의 상치콘크리트에 작용하는 수평파압: 비쇄파조건)

  • Lee, Jong-In;Lee, Geum Yong;Kim, Young-Taek
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.33 no.6
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    • pp.321-332
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    • 2021
  • The crown wall with parapet on top of the rubble mound breakwater represents a relatively economic and efficient solution to reduce the wave overtopping discharge. However, the inclusion of parapet leads to increased wave pressure on the crown wall. The wave pressure on the crown wall is investigated by physical model test. To design the crown wall the wave loads should be available, and the horizontal wave pressure is still unclear. Regarding to the horizontal wave pressure on the crown wall, a series of experiments were conducted by changing the rubble mound type structure and the wave conditions. Based on these results, pressure modification factors of Goda's (1974, 2010) formula have been suggested, which can be applicable for the practical design of the crown wall of the rubble-mound breakwater covered by tetrapods.

Experimental Study on Irregular Wave Forces Acting on a Marker Rock Installed on a Submerged Breakwater (수중방파제 천단상의 표식암에 작용하는 불규칙파의 파력특성에 관한 실험적 연구)

  • Hur, Dong Soo
    • KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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    • v.26 no.4B
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    • pp.413-420
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    • 2006
  • The construction of a submerged breakwater has become increasing due to their multiple effects on the coastal zone. Recently, marker rocks have been installed on the submerged breakwater to indicate its position to the vessels instead of buoy systems, since a buoy is not only improper for the ocean view, but also its mooring system may be damaged by the impulsive wave force caused by wave breaking on the breakwater. The accurate estimation of wave forces on such rocks is deemed necessary for their stability design. In this study, the characteristics of irregular wave forces acting on a marker rock, which was installed on a submerged breakwater, was investigated on the basis of laboratory experiments. It was revealed that the dimensionless highest one-third wave force tends to decrease with increasing the installation distance of a marker rock from the leading crown edge of a submerged breakwater. Also, the drag and inertia coefficients for irregular wave forces, which were obtained using the Morison equation, were investigated in relation to K.C. number.

Long-Term Shoreline Change and Evaluation of Total Longshore Sediment Transport Rate on Hupo Beach (후포해빈에서 해안선의 장기변화 및 전연안표사량의 추정)

  • Park, Il-Heum;Lee, Young-Kweon
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • v.21 no.4
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    • pp.15-20
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    • 2007
  • The harbor siltation by longshore sediment transports has become a serious problem on the East Coast of Korea. A reasonable prediction of the longshore sediment rate is important to approach the siltation problem effectively. In the recently developed 1-line model, the empirical constants of the sediment transport formula, which include the absolute quantity of sediment transport rate and the spatial distribution of breaking wave height by wave deformation, are treated as calibration parameters. Since these constants should be determined by the very long-term shoreline data, the longshore sediment rates are much more reasonable values. The method was applied to Hupo Beach, which has experienced heavy siltation. The authors also discuss long-term shoreline change using aerial photos and the observed wave-induced current patterns. According to the result, the SW-direction sediment transport rate was $146,892m^3/year$, and the NE direction was $2,694,450m^3/year$ at Hupo Beach for the last 11 years. The siltation in Hupo Harbor might be affected by the NE-direction sediment transport from Hupo Beach.