• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.39 no.4
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• pp.1-10
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• 2002

For the time-domain simulation of incipient breaking waves, usually the boundary integral method has been used so far, and it seems to be successful except a problem of too much computation time. The present paper shows a new computation technique for the simulation of breaking wave experiment. This technique uses the high-order spectral/boundary element method and the boundary integral method in sequence, and reduces the computation time remarkably. The wave generation and energy focusing process is efficiently simulated by the high-order spectral/boundary element method. Only the wave over-turning process is simulated by the boundary integral method. In the example calculation result, salient features of breaking waves such as high particle velocities and accelerations are shown.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.357-368
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• 1993

With the assumption of the diffusion dominated flow, a numerical model has been developed for undertow and turbulence structure under the breaking wave by using the $textsc{k}$-$\varepsilon$ turbulence model. Undertow is a strong mean current which moves seqwards below the level of wave trough in the surf zone. The turbulence, generated by wave breaking in the roller, spreads and dissipates downwards. The governing equations are composed of the equation of motion with the period-averaged shear stress due to waves; $textsc{k}$- and $\varepsilon$-equations with the turbulence energy Production due to wave breaking. They are discretised by the three-level fully implicit scheme, which can be solved by using Thomas algorithm. The model gives good agreements with measurements except for the station that is closest to the breaking point.

• Journal of Advanced Marine Engineering and Technology
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.965-974
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• 2009

The current study reviews the formula used to calculate the stability of an artificial reef in the breaking wave zone of coastal waters. A comparison was carried out between the existing formula and a new formula that takes into account the water particle velocity in the breaking wave zone. Water particle velocity was analyzed using the Fluent (CADMAS-SURF) software program. The new formula took into various factors, including the difference in the drag coefficient due to the direction of the current and the ratio of distance between two reefs. The drag coefficient of the artificial reef due to the direction of the current was 0.84 when the distance ratio was 0.5. When the artificial reef was placed at 45 degree angle to the current, the product of the drag coefficient and the project area were 40 to 46 % greater than when the reef was placed at 90 degree angle. Our results regarding the stability of an artificial reef indicate that the new formula provides the designers of artificial reefs with a more rational and economic design rationale rather than the existing formula.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.165-172
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• 2021

Breaking wave is one of the important design factors in the design of coastal and port structures as they are directly related to various physical phenomena occurring on the coast, such as onshore currents, sediment transport, shock wave pressure, and energy dissipation. Due to the inherent complexity of the breaking wave, many empirical formulas have been proposed to predict breaker indices such as wave breaking height and breaking depth using hydraulic models. However, the existing empirical equations for breaker indices mainly were proposed via statistical analysis of experimental data under the assumption of a specific equation. In this study, a new Munk-type empirical equation was proposed to predict the height of breaking waves based on a representative linear supervised machine learning technique with high predictive performance in various research fields related to regression or classification challenges. Although the newly proposed breaker height formula was a simple polynomial equation, its predictive performance was comparable to that of the currently available empirical formula.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.163-169
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• 1991

Sixty seven regular wave tests were performed in a wave-current flume to investigate proper-ties of waves breaking on irregular slope profiles. In these tests, 1/10, 1/20 beach slopes were made using angles and plywoods. A little differences were found in such properties as breaker depth and height indices. runup for plane slopes comparing with other laboratory experiments. however. for smaller deepwater wave steepness, measured breaker height and depth data values were smaller than other formulas. On wave runup agreement was good between experiments and Hunt formula. however. measured data values were influenced by number of breaking. Significant differences were found in breaker depth index for plane and barred slopes. Wave height decay after breaking was found to be smaller than Dally et al.'s formula (1984).

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.89-98
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• 2023

Analyzing the interactions of free surface waves caused by a submerged-body movement is important as a fundamental study of submerged-body motion. In this study, a two-dimensional mini-towing tank was used to tow an underwater body for analyzing the generation and propagation characteristics of free surface waves. The magnitude of the maximum wave height generated by the underwater body motion increased with the body velocity at shallow submerged depths but did not increase further when the generated wave steepness corresponded to a breaking wave condition. Long-period waves were generated in the forward direction as the body moved initially, and then short-period waves were measured when the body moved at a constant velocity. In numerical simulations based on potential flow, the fluid pressure changes caused by the submerged-body motion were implemented, and the maximum wave height was accurately predicted; however, the complex physical phenomena caused by fluid viscosity and wave breaking in the downstream direction were difficult to implement. This research provides a fundamental understanding of the changes in the free surface caused by a moving underwater body.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.199-208
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• 2019

Regular waves were generated in a wave flume under perfect reflection condition to evaluate performance of three CFD models of CADMAS-SURF, olaFlow, and KIOSTFOAM. The experiments and numerical simulations were carried out for three different conditions of non-breaking, breaking of standing waves, and breaking of incident waves. Among the three CFD models, KIOSTFOAM showed best performance in reproducing the experimental results. Although the run time was reduced by using CADMAS-SURF, its computational accuracy was worse than KIOSTFOAM. olaFlow was the fastest model, but active wave absorption at the wave generation boundary was not satisfactory. In addition, the model excessively dissipated wave energy when wave breaking occurred.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.187-192
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• 2007

Impact on cylindrical surface caused by plunging breaking waves is investigated experimentally. The breaking waves are generated in a wave flume by decreasing the wave maker frequencies linearly and focusing the generated wave components at one specific location. The breaking wave packets are based on constant wave steepness spectrum. Three inclination angles of cylinder are applied to examine the effect of contact angle between cylinder and front surface of breaking waves. Also, the effect of cylinder diameter on pressure distribution and its peak value is investigated by adopting three cylinders with different diameters. The longitudinal location of cylinder is slightly moved in eight different points to find out a probable maximum value of impact pressure. The pressures and total force on cylinder surface are measured by piezo-electric pressure sensors and 3-components load cell with 30kHz sampling rate. The variation of peak impact pressures and forces is analyzed in terms of cylinder diameter, inclination angle and location. Also, the pressure distribution on cylindrical surface is examined. The cylinder location and surface position are more important parameters that govern the magnitude and shape of peak pressures, while the cylinder diameter and inclined angle are relatively insignificant. In a certain conditions, the impact phenomenon becomes very unstable which results in a large variation of measured valves in repeated runs.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.119-127
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• 2022

To investigate varying wave impact pressure exerting at the crest wall of rubble mound seawall, depending on breaking wave properties, regular waves with different wave periods were generated. Wave velocity fields and void fraction were measured using bubble image velocimetry and simple combined wave gauge system (Na and Son, 2021). For the waves with shorter wave period, maximum horizontal velocity was less reduced compared to incident wave speed while breaking-induced air entrainment was occurred intensely, leading to a significant reduction of wave impact pressure at the crest wall. For the waves with longer wave periods, less air wave entrained and the wave structure followed a flip-through mode (Cooker and Peregrine, 1991), resulting in an abrupt increase of the impact pressure.

• 한국전산유체공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2005.10a
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• pp.195-199
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• 2005

Wave breaking phenomenon near the fore body of a ship is numerically simulated. The ship advance with uniform velocity in calm water. For the simulation, incompressible Navier-Stokes equations and continuity equation are adopted as governing equations. The simulation is carried out in staggered variable mesh system with finite difference method. Marker and Cell(MAC) method and Marker-Density method are employed to track the free surface. Body boundary conditions are satisfied with the adoption of porosity method and no-slip condition on the hull surface. The ship model has a wedge type fore-body, and the computational domain is an appropriate region around the fore-body. The computation results are compared with some experimental results. Also the difference of the free surface tracking methods are discussed.