• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.151-158
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• 1990

Various factors may contribute on the mixing processes in the surf zone formed by irregular waves. The turbulence motion driven by wave breaking may be one of the major causes, the effect due to spatial variation on current velocity be a secondary one, and the additional process may result from the irregular superposition of radiation stresses or wave breaking dissipation incurred by random breaking waves in a broadened surf zone. In the present study a numerical model of spectral waves and induced currents was developed using a superposition technique with ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ closure for mixing process and applied to a field situation of longshore current generated by spectral waves on a uniform beach. It was found from the application that the surf-zone mixing processes formed by irregular waves can be well described by using ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ equations if the source of ${\kappa}$ is properly represented. The nonlinear energy transfer was also found to have some influence on the velocity profile of longshore current particularly in very shallow water region near coast.

• Korean Journal of Remote Sensing
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• v.27 no.3
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• pp.213-223
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to estimate the spherical wave parameters that appears in synthetic aperture radar (SAR) image acquired over the coast of Chukk, Micronesia. The retrieval of ocean wave parameters consists of two main stages: the first is to determine the dominant wavelengths by Fast Fourier Transform (FFT) over 16 sub-image areas and the second is to estimate wave slopes and heights using dispersion relationship under various water wave conditions. It is assumed that the spherical waves are linear and progressive. These type of waves have the range and azimuth components traveling in radial directions. The azimuth travelling waves are more affected by the velocity bunching mechanism and it is difficult to estimate the wave parameters for these affected areas in SAR imagery. In order to compensate these effects, the velocity bunching ratio (VBR) based on modulation transfer function (MTF) was compared with the intensity ratio for neighbor area in the radial direction in order to assign the spherical wave properties for azimuthally travelling waves. Dispersion relation provides the good estimates for the wave heights for all the selected sub-image areas in the range of 1m to 2m. VBR based on MTF was found to be 0.78 at wave height of 1.36m, while the intensity-based VBR was 0.69 which corresponds to the height of 1.75m. It can be said that the velocity bunching accounts for azimuthally travelling spherical waves and the difference results from the sea-bottom effects.

• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.18-24
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• 1999

The satellite image acquired by RADARSAT SAR on August 15, 1996 reveals internal waves in north coastal waters of Cheju Island. It is indicated from the image data, the tidal elevation data, and the bottom topography data, the internal waves seem to be generated by interaction between shallow bottom and tidal currents travelling in the stratified water in the summer time during the tidal changeovers from ebb to flood. The internal waves generated in such condition show patterns of trains of solitons. Probable amplitude of observed solitons is calculated using estimation of the soliton wave length from SAR image data and K-dV equation. Detection of the internal waves is very significant not only to military strategist for underwater maneuvers such as operation of submarines, but also to physical and biological oceanographers. Temporal and spatial variation of the internal waves are needed to be measured by simultaneous in-situ field study together with SAR to examine the nature of these internal waves.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.33 no.9
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• pp.645-651
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• 2009

In this study, a series of laboratory experiments were carried out to investigate the weak reflection of regular and random water waves over a train of protruded permeable shore structures. A cylindrical slit type breakwater and the alternatives are employed and compared for reflecting and transmitting capabilities of incident waves including wave forces. A series of random waves were generated by using the Bretschneider-Mitsuyasu frequency and directional spectrum. Measured spectrum of irregular waves without breakwaters is verified by comparing with those of the input waves generated. Weak reflection is occurred at the breakwater center of the peak frequency. If the row of breakwaters is fixed at three layers and the relative height of breakwater is fixed at 0.6, around 45% of incident wave energy is reflected to offshore. It is also found that the transmission of directional random waves increases as the maximum frequency parameter increases. A very good agreement is observed. Reflection coefficients of permeable submerged breakwaters are less than those of impermeable breakwaters. The upside-down L shape is recommended for a small fishery harbor mooring in terms of reflecting capability and of practical application. The final design was applied to the wharf of a small beach of Seolly, near Namhae at the southeast coast of Korea.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.161-167
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• 1992

We consider the preparation of long finite amplitude nondispersive waves over a step bottom between two regions of finite different depths. Two dimensional motion is assumed. with the wave crests parallel to the step, and irrotational flow in the inviscid fluid is considered. To describe the transformation of finite amplitude waves we use the finite-amplitude shallow-water equations, the conditions of mass flow conservation and pressure continuity at the cut above the step in Riemann's variables. The equations define four families of curves-characteristics on which the values of the Riemann's invariants remain constant and a system of two nonlinear equations that relates the amplitudes of incident reflected and transmitted waves. The system obtained is difficult to analyze in common form. Thus we consider some special cases having practical usage for tsunami waves. The results obtained are compared with the long wave theory and significant nonlinear effects are found even for quite small amplitude waves.

• Transactions of the Korean Society of Mechanical Engineers B
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.293-300
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• 2013

This study used a water tank and wave maker to generate conditions similar to the real ocean environment. Given that the waves were properly generated in the water tank, a precise analysis indicated the quantitative value of the wave force acting on a body. A high-speed camera and wave-level gauge were used to measure the temporal wave motion and period. A series of artificial water waves were successfully generated using three different wave periods and amplitudes. Each of the waves captured by a high-speed camera was sinusoidal and did not maintain its shape properly without a wave absorber, but it was substantially improved and well shaped when the wave absorber was installed.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.100-108
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• 1998

Morison formula has been used in the determination of wave forces acting on vertical cylindrical piles of ocean structures. The formula, however, can be applied to mildly varying varying incident waves with symmetrical shapes. The breaking waves impinge on structures with very high impact forces, which completely differ from the inertia and drag forces of the Morison formula in both magnitudes and characteristics. In the present study, a boundary element method is applied to determine the water particle velocity and acceleration under the breaking waves. A numerical model is then developed to determine breaking wave forces utilizing those water particle kinematics. The results of the model is then developed to determine breaking wave forces utilizing those water particle kinematics. The results of the model agree well with existing experimental data, giving maximal wave forces 3 times and maximal moments 5 times larger than the Morison formula does.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2004.05b
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• pp.1445-1449
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• 2004

Even though there can be a relative long-term or short-term change of their size in natural beaches due to various changes of sea condition such as the location, weather condition (wind and rain) and sea water flow, the budget of deposits in a specific area is generally regarded to be in a condition of equilibrium in terms of technology. However, as coasts are developed by many different kinds of ways (such as construction of sea walls and estuarine, dredging for gathering the aggregate and shore protection construction for establishing a structure) and sources of silt and gravel from rivers are decreased in balanced beaches, the beaches are in a serious danger of lack of sand and sand sources which are one of the maul elements to consist of them. Many swimming beaches in East Sea are directly exposed by waves generated and transmitted from outer seas. On the other hand, the Song-Do sandy beach which is this study's target area has a great condition for beach development because it locates the deepest place that is relatively shallow in Young-Il Man and there is big energy decrease given to waves from outer seas while the waves are reaching the Song-Do beach. Nevertheless, it is considered that artificial condition changes such as dredging for site extension by POSCO, getting straight of Hyoung-San Gang river flow and extension of Po-Hang harbor caused the sand loss of the beach. Therefore, some recovery plans of Song-Do sandy beach will be presented in this study and they will be compared and examined each other by numerical modeling experiment. After that, the best plan will be recommended.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.242-251
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• 2020

In this study, the extraction efficiency and reflection coefficient by a two-dimensional OWC (Oscillating Water Column) WEC (wave energy converter) installed in front of a seawall was investigated for regular/irregular waves. The matched eigenfunction expansion method (MEEM) based on the linear potential theory was applied as an analytical tool. The diffraction problem by the incident wave in the open-chamber and the radiation problem by the oscillating pressure in the closed-chamber were solved to obtain the volume fluxes at the internal free-surface. Applying the volume fluxes into the continuity equation for the airflow in a chamber, we got the oscillating air pressure. The maximum extracted power and corresponding reflection coefficient were determined at the optimal turbine coefficient that maximizes the extracted power. OWC device designed for a high extracted efficiency simultaneously contributes to reduce reflected waves.

• Water for future
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.389-397
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• 1988

For determination of the design wves at the seven selected sites in the South Sea, a method of hindcasting the past annual largest significant waves from the records of both the wind speed at the nearby weather stations and the weather charts of typhoons are utilized. The design significant waves in deep water are determined through the extremal probability analysis for three major wave directions(SW, S, SE) at each site from the annual extremal series of wave heights. Design significant wave heights with the return period of 100 years ranged between 4.6m and 8.8m with the wave period ranging between 8.2 seconds and 12.9 seconds. Through the analysis of weather maps, both the fetches for the wind directions SW-SE along the South Coast and the relationship between the wind speed at sea and the wind speed at the nearby land weather stations for seasonal winds are determined. The wind speed at sea are found to be 0.8-0.9 times the wind speed at the land stations for $U_1$>15m/s. The ratio of the duration-averaged wind speed to the maximum wind speed varies between 0.7-0.9 as a negative exponential function for the duration ranging 2< t< 13 hours.