• Title/Summary/Keyword: Water waves

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Change of Nearshore Random Waves in Response to Sea-level Rise (해수면 상승에 따른 연안 지역 불규칙파의 변화)

  • Cheon, Se-Hyeon;Suh, Kyung-Duck
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.25 no.4
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    • pp.244-254
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    • 2013
  • In this study, a method has been developed for estimating the change of nearshore random waves in response to sea-level rise, by extending the method proposed for regular waves by Townend in 1994. The relative changes in wavelength, refraction coefficient, shoaling coefficient, and wave height for random waves are presented as functions of relative change in water depth. The changes in wavelength and refraction coefficient are calculated by using the significant wave period and principal wave direction in the regular-wave formulas. On the other hand, the changes in shoaling coefficient and wave height are calculated by using the formulas proposed for shoaling and transformation of random waves in the nearshore area including surf zone. The results are proposed in the form of both formulas and graphs. In particular, the relative change in wave height is compared with the result for regular waves.

Effects of Internal Waves on Dynamics of Hypoxic Waters in Lake Biwa (일본 비와호의 빈산소 수체 거동에 미치는 내부파의 영향)

  • Kitazawa, Daisuke;Kumagai, Michio;Hasegawa, Naoko
    • Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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    • v.13 no.1
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    • pp.30-42
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    • 2010
  • The effects of internal waves on dynamics of hypoxic waters were investigated by numerical simulation by means of a hydrostatic-ecosystem coupled numerical model for Lake Biwa. The numerical model consists of hydrostatic and ecosystem submodels. Numerical simulation was carried out for a period during April 2007 and March 2008, after preliminary numerical simulation for three years. As a result, the numerical model could capture the vertical profiles of the observed water quality. During September 30 and October 21 in 2007, the major internal waves were Kelvin and Poincare waves, the periods of which were 1.63 or 1.77 days and 0.48 days, respectively. Hypoxic waters appeared in bottom boundary layer around October and were still when thermocline locates in upper layer. During late autumn and winter seasons, differences in density between upper and lower layers were reduced and the amplitude of internal waves increased. Hypoxic waters began to move under the effects of internal waves. Movement of hypoxic waters will diminish the habitat for aquatic organisms in deeper waters.

Analysis of Wave and Current in Anmok Coastal Waters (안목해안의 파랑과 흐름 분석)

  • Lim, Hak-Soo;Kim, Mujong
    • Journal of Coastal Disaster Prevention
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    • v.4 no.1
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    • pp.7-19
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    • 2017
  • In this study, waves and currents observed by acoustic AWAC, VECTOR and Aquadopp Profiler in Anmok coastal waters were analysed to account for the variability of wave and current and to understand the mechanism of sediment transport generated by wave-induced current in the surf-zone. The monthly variation of wave and residual currents were analysed and processed with long-term observed AWAC data at station W1, located at the water depth of about 18m measured during from February 2015 to September 2016. Wave-induced currents were also analysed with intensive field measurements such as wave, current, suspended sediment, and bathymetry data observed at the surf-zone during in winter and summer. The statistical result of wave data shows that high waves coming from NNE and NE in winter (DEC-FEB) are dominant due to strong winds from NE. But in the other season waves coming from NE and ENE are prevalent due to the seasonal winds from E and SE. The residual currents with southeastern direction parallel to the shoreline are dominant throughout a year except in winter showing in opposite direction. The speed of ebb-dominant southeastern residual currents decreasing from surface to the bottom is strong in summer and fall but weak in winter and spring. By analysing wave-induced current, we found that cross-shore current were generated by swell waves mainly in winter with incoming wave direction about $45^{\circ}$ normal to the shoreline. Depending on the direction of incoming waves, longshore currents in the surf-zone were separated to southeastern and northwestern flows in winter and summer respectively. The variation of observed currents near crescentic bars in the surf-zone shows different direction of longshore and cross-shore currents depending on incoming waves implying to the reason of beach erosion generating the beach cusp and sandbar migration during high waves at Anmok.

Coarse Grid Wave Hindcasting in the Yellow Sea Considering the Effect of Tide and Tidal Current (조석 및 조류 효과를 고려한 황해역 광역 파랑 수치모의 실험)

  • Chun, Hwusub;Ahn, Kyungmo
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.30 no.6
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    • pp.286-297
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    • 2018
  • In the present study, wave measurements at KOGA-W01 were analyzed and then the numerical wind waves simulations have been conducted to investigate the characteristics of wind waves in the Yellow sea. According to the present analysis, even though the location of the wave stations are close to the coastal region, the deep water waves are prevailed due to the short fetch length. Chun and Ahn's (2017a, b) numerical model has been extended to the Yellow Sea in this study. The effects of tide and tidal currents should be included in the model to accommodate the distinctive effect of large tidal range and tidal current in the Yellow Sea. The wave hindcasting results were compared with the wave measurements collected KOGA-W01 and Kyeockpo. The comparison shows the reasonable agreements between wave hindcastings and measured data, however the model significantly underestimate the wave period of swell waves from the south due to the narrow computational domain. Despite the poorly prediction in the significant wave period of swell waves which usually have small wave heights, the estimation of the extreme wave height and corresponding wave period shows good agreement with the measurement data.

음성인식 기반 인터렉티브 미디어아트의 연구 - 소리-시각 인터렉티브 설치미술 "Water Music" 을 중심으로-

  • Lee, Myung-Hak;Jiang, Cheng-Ri;Kim, Bong-Hwa;Kim, Kyu-Jung
    • 한국HCI학회:학술대회논문집
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    • 2008.02a
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    • pp.354-359
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    • 2008
  • This Audio-Visual Interactive Installation is composed of a video projection of a video Projection and digital Interface technology combining with the viewer's voice recognition. The Viewer can interact with the computer generated moving images growing on the screen by blowing his/her breathing or making sound. This symbiotic audio and visual installation environment allows the viewers to experience an illusionistic spacephysically as well as psychologically. The main programming technologies used to generate moving water waves which can interact with the viewer in this installation are visual C++ and DirectX SDK For making water waves, full-3D rendering technology and particle system were used.

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Acoustical analysis and signal processing for leak location of buried pipes (지하매설 배관의 누수지점 탐지를 위한 음향학적 해석 및 신호처리)

  • Lee Young-Sup;Yoon Dong-Jin;Baek Kwang-Hyun;Kim Sang-Moo
    • Proceedings of the Acoustical Society of Korea Conference
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    • spring
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    • pp.225-230
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    • 2004
  • Leak noise is a good source to identify the exact location of a leak point of underground water pipelines. Water leak generates broadband noise from a leak location and can be propagated to both directions of water pipes. However, the necessity of long-range detect ion of this leak location makes to identify low-frequency acoustic waves rather than high frequency ones. Acoustic wave propagation coupled with surrounding boundaries including cast iron pipes is theoretical analyzed and the wave velocity was confirmed with experiment The leak locations were identified both by the acoustic emission (AE) method and the cross-correlation method. In a short-range distance, both the AE method and cross-correlation method are effective to detect leak position. However, the detect ion for a long-range distance required a lower frequency range accelerometers only because higher frequency waves were attenuated very quickly with the increase of propagation paths. Two algorithms for the cross-correlation function were suggested and a long-range detection has been achieved at real underground water pipelines longer than 300m.

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Design of Bow Shape to Decrease Green Water Impact Loading in Regular Waves (규칙파 중 갑판침입수 충격하중 감소를 위한 선수형상 설계)

  • Ha, Yoon-Jin;Lee, Young-Gill;Jeong, Kwang-Leol
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • v.26 no.4
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    • pp.15-22
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    • 2012
  • In this research, the relationship between the bow shape and green water phenomenon on the bow deck of an FPSO was studied using an experimental method. A 140,000 DWT FPSO was used as the objective hull form in the present research. The incident waves were regular types. The heights were 1.0 and 1.5 times the freeboard, and the length was equal in size to LBP. The wave heights and pressures on the deck were measured in experiments. Model tests were performed to determine the effects of bow flare angles, bow shapes, and a forecastle deck. The free heave and pitch conditions were applied to the models in these experiments. From the results of the model tests, an optimized bow shape was designed, which was found to decrease the green water impact loading. The results of this research could be used as fundamental data in the design of a bow shape.

Wave Simulation on Youngil Bay by WAM Extended to Shallow Water (천해역으로 확장된 WAM모형에 의한 영일만 파랑모의)

  • Chun, Je-Ho;Ahn, Kyung-Mo;Yoon, Jong-Tae
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.19 no.6
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    • pp.511-520
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    • 2007
  • WAM(WAve Model), deep water wave model has been extended to the region of shallow water, incorporating wave breaking, and triad wave interaction. To verify the model, numerical simulation of waves in Youngil bay, Pohang is performed and the simulated results show good agreements with measured wave data sets, one station at the mouth of bay and two stations inside the bay. As waves propagate toward the shore, wave height gradually diminishes by bottom friction and wave breaking, and wave direction, initially NE changes normal to the shore due to depth refraction.