• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.189-198
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• 2012

This study aim was to understand the effects of the change of the sleeve cap height on the sleeve cap line and the sleeve appearance by making nine different sleeve cap height patterns. When a subject sews the virtual and real garments with this, it provides data base through which she can make the suitable sleeve by conducting a comparative analysis of the appearance and cross-sectional diagram and grasping the relation between the sleeve cap line ease and the shape of the sleeve. As a result of the analysis of the image of 3D virtual garment, the shape of the armscye and the position of the bust line and sleeve baseline, the sleeve cap height and the sewing ease of the sleeve cap line affect on the shape of the sleeve and the armscye. Although the real garment is slightly different from the virtual garment they have shown similar tendency. Therefore, if the 3D virtual clothing system is used appropriately, it is possible to expect various study results in the apparel field without making real garments.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.315-324
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• 2022

This study aims to verify the sewing technology and the expression of the virtual garment program by comparing the appearance similarity between the real and the virtual power shoulder jacket. To this end, the H and the X silhouettes of the power shoulder jacket were selected as the reference designs. After making the reference designs into real jackets by applying the human body dimensions of women in their twenties, virtual avatars and jackets were produced using CLO 3D programs. The results showed that the H-type with only expanded shoulders and less design variation had a high similarity between the reference photo and real garment, the real and virtual garment, and the reference photo and virtual garment. The power shoulder jacket of the reference picture was well reproduced in the real and virtual garments. Conversely, the X-type jacket, which is a tight fit and has many design variations, showed somewhat low similarity in the circumference items and the basic construction line. Especially in tight-fitted power shoulder jackets, the fact that shoulder angles and the essential items for pattern making cannot be reflected in reproducing virtual models was found to be a limitation in increasing the similarity of virtual clothing. Furthermore, the sewing system gap between the real and the virtual clothing exposed a difference in the appearance of virtual clothing.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.30-42
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• 2017

A comprehensive research must be conducted on manufacturing techniques such as patterns and sewing, with the understanding of material properties to satisfy consumers' emotions with a strong fashion trend orientation. Physical and emotional characteristics may change depending on the characteristics of the material, and the overall silhouette and feeling of the garment can change depending on how sewing is conducted.To examine the completeness of a finished garment depending on different kinds of clothing material, this study fabricated an actual garment and a 3D virtual garment as well using 3D CAD IMAGE SYSTEM (CLO 3D, DC Suite, etc.) for a comparative analysis. These two methods have their own advantages and disadvantages. This study selected five of the most representative clothing materials and conducted a comparative analysis on appearance differences between actual clothing and virtual clothing by material. Additionally, the study verified the similarity between actual clothing and virtual clothing by comparing their physical properties by material, and evaluated the objectivity and accuracy of the reproducibility of material properties of virtual clothing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.504-514
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• 2021

This study attempted to extract and structure the job skills required for 3D designers, which have been recently introduced to the fashion industry. The study aimed to materialize and objectify the 3D designer's job, using a focus group interview for the survey. The 3D designer has the TD task of making 3D virtual samples using the pattern files developed in Pattern CAD. Graphic design and fabric digitization are also major tasks for the 3D designer. CLO is mainly used for 3D virtual sample production, and PixPlant, Substance, Photoshop, Cinema 4D, Daz studio, and 3ds MAX are used for image and avatar editing. As per the job skills required for 3D design work, basic knowledge about patterns and sewing, skill in 3D virtual clothing technology, ability to use various software, and English skills were considered important, in that order. In particular, the need for knowledge about patterns and sewing became more important than the skill in 3D virtual clothing technology itself. To train 3D designers, it was found that not only 3D virtual clothing software, but also education on patterns and clothing construction, CAD developer's curriculum certification system, and 3D designer qualification management were required. In addition, 3D designers are recognized as an essential job in fashion vendors, and the demand for domestic brands is increasing. The biggest limitation of the 3D virtual clothing system is the perfection of the digital fabric. Also, technical improvement is needed.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.46-60
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• 2008

Lyocell is a regenerated cellulosic fiber manufactured by an environmentally friendly process. The major advantages of lyocell are the excellent drape forming property, the genuine bulkiness, smooth surface, and high dry/wet tenacities. However, one drawback of lyocell is its fibrillation property, which would degrade its aesthetic quality and lower the consumer satisfaction. In our previous studies, lyocell was treated with epichlorohydrin, a non-formalin based crosslinker, to reduce its fibrillation tendency. To investigate the changes of physical properties upon ECH-treatment, the hand characteristics of ECH-treated fabric were observed using KES-FB system and the 3D-virtual sewing image of the fabrics were obtained using 3D CAD simulation system in this study. Since epichlorohydrin(ECH) treatment was conducted in the alkaline medium, the weight reduction was observed in all treated lyocell. The treated lyocell became light, smooth and flexible in spite of ECH crosslinker application. LT and RT in tensile property upon the ECH treatment did not change significantly, however, EMT and WT in the tensile property increased. The significant decrease in bending rigidity was resulted in all ECH-treated lyocell, which is the result of the weight loss upon the alkali condition of ECH treatment. The bending rigidity increased again in the ECH 30% treated lyocell, however, the B value is still lower than the original. Therefore, the ECH-treated lyocell would be more stretchable and softer than the original. Shear rigidity was also decreased in all ECH-treated lyocell, which would result in more drape and body fitting when it is made as a garment. The ECH-treated fabric showed the softer smoother surface according to SMD value from KES evaluation. The virtual 3D sewing image of the ECH-treated lyocell did not show a significant change from that of the original except ECH 30% treated lyocell. ECH 30% treated lyocell showed a stiffer and more puckered image than the original.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.137-146
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• 2009

This study analyzed hierarchy of image for visual evaluation of flare skirt. This study analyzed expression words about flare skirt with frequency data of image expression words with different length and volume of flare. Stimuli for the study were set to be 4 different volume of flare ($90^{\circ}$, $180^{\circ}$, $270^{\circ}$, $360^{\circ}$) and 3 different length of skirt(48cm, 58cm, 68cm). Stimuli were made by using I-Designer which is Virtual Sewing System. From simulation of flare skirt, the subjects were asked to write down suggested adjective freely and selected 210 adjectives. With this, we chose total 38 adjectives considering frequencies in the pre-study. And we analyzed the combination process of expression words according to construction factor of flare skirt and hierarchy of image from dendrogram which was resulted by hierarchical cluster analysis. 'Feminine' got high score in all 12 flare skirt. When the skirt was short, it was vivid, and as the skirt got longer, ordinary and pure image showed. Also, as the volume of flare got larger, the average of visual effect was higher than visual image. Visual hierarchy construction according to construction factors of flare skirt could be divided into visual image and visual effect, and visual image was shown to be form 'A type - large volume of flare and short skirt length', 'H type-small volume of flare and short skirt length' and 'X type - large volume of flare and long skirt length'.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.124-133
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• 2016

Currently the fashion industry is developing to create a novel culture due to the very sensitive and knowledge-oriented advancement of the IT industry. With fast turnover of information, consumers have come to have a more diverse desire for purchasing. Cubical expression techniques, which empathizes formativeness, can be a creative expression method adjusting into the trend of this era. Along with functional aspects of consumers, even in a textile manufacturing sector, new materials are required to meet sensitive and emotional aspects. Consumers' desire for new and creative designs and the development and adoption of new materials are essential to meet their emotions. The IT industry and fashion industry are forced to combine and a 3D apparel CAD system has been developed, enabling virtual clothing to be represented within a computer virtual space. All processes such as design, pattern creation, sewing and simulation are possible in 3D level. Digital clothing can shorten the production process time and is very effective in that it can reduce clothing waste generated during the sample production. This paper reviewed the works of Dutch designer, Iris van Herpen, who has developed formative designs. She tries to build, construct, and sculpt employing diversified materials other than soft textile materials, as shown in her series of fashion shows. The materials include films, 3D printed polymers, stiff and sheer organza, and artificial leather textiles. A few characteristics of her works have been selected in order to prepare patterns exhibiting the traits. The paper further focused on the physical features of the textile materials used to express similar techniques and its various forms were reviewed.