• 제목/요약/키워드: Victorian age

검색결과 21건 처리시간 0.018초

미국 빅토리안 웨딩드레스의 디자인과 제작기법 연구 (A Study on Victorian Wedding Dress Design and Making Techniques of America)

  • 이상례
    • 복식
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    • 제57권9호
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    • pp.161-176
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    • 2007
  • The objectives of this study are to select and analyze unpublished wedding dresses in the 19th century, to investigate the design characteristics and making techniques of Victorian wedding dresses, and to examine the correlation between the wedding dress style and the fashion style in those days and the influence of the wedding dress style on contemporary's styles. The materials of this study were 9 wedding dresses owned by the Historical Costume and Textile Collection at the University of Connecticut in USA. The dresses were made during the mid and late Victorian Age. As for silhouette, the bustle style was popular in the 1870s and 1880s, and the hourglass style in the 1890s, and different from contemporary dresses there were no big differences in structural pattern and details between ordinary dresses and wedding dresses. In addition, colored wedding dresses were used until the mid and late Victorian Age, but since the wedding ceremony of Queen Victoria in 1840, white wedding dress was widely accepted and settled as the tradition of today's wedding dresses. While the Western dress style had been basically a one piece style, there appeared simple two piece designs in which the upper garment was separated from the lower one, from the mid Victorian Age. This is considered the reflection of those days' pragmatic social trend in dress style. It seems around 1875 when asymmetric design was first introduced in the Western dress style, which had been mostly symmetric. The asymmetric style that pursued atypical beauty, though not common during the late Victorian Age, shows a change in the typical Western dress style. With regard to dress making techniques, sewing machines were distributed widely during the early Victorian Age but they were not used in all parts of dress. Most of details and trimming works were done manually and some parts were attached and detached by hand sewing. In addition, not like today, there were no generalized rules of making such as the form of closings and composition.

A Study on the Design and Composition of Victorian Women's Mantle

  • Lee, Sang-Rye;Kim, Hye-Jeong
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제14권6호
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    • pp.188-203
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    • 2010
  • This study purposed to identify the design and composition characteristics of mantle through a historical review of its change and development focusing on women's dress. This analysis was particularly focused on the Victorian age because the variety of mantle designs introduced and popularized was wider than ever since ancient times to the present. For this study, we collected historical literature on mantle from ancient times to the $19^{th}$ century and made comparative analysis of design and composition, and for the Victorian age we investigated also actual items from the period. During the early Victorian age when the crinoline style was popular, mantle was of A.line silhouette spreading downward from the shoulders and of around knee length. In the mid Victorian age from 1870 to 1889 when the bustle style was popular, the style of mantle was changed to be three-dimensional, exaggerating the rear side of the bustle skirt. In addition, with increase in women's suburban activities, walking costume became popular and mantle reached its climax. With the diversification of design and composition in this period, the name of mantle became more specific and as a result, mantle, mantelet, dolman, paletot, etc. were used. The styles popular were: it looked like half-jacket and half-cape. Ornaments such as tassels, fur, braids, rosettes, tufts and fringe were attached to create luxurious effects. In the late Victorian age when the hourglass style was in fashion, mantle returned again to plain design emphasizing the details of the shoulders. The results of this study are expected to present motives for the development of contemporary designs, to contribute to the new recognition of the value of mantles, and to open a new research area of clothing history.

빅토리안 문양(文樣)이 현대(現代) 텍스타일 제품(製品) 디자인에 미친 영향(影響) (The Influence of the Victorian Pattern on the Modern Textile Product Designs)

  • 엄경희;신상희
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제8권4호
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    • pp.68-79
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    • 2004
  • This study aims to understand the history of the Victorian age that attached importance to various designs and aesthetic aspects by art and craft movement, and to present that the Victorian pattern is a factor with unlimited possibility in application and development of the modern textile product designs. Therefore, through documents research home and abroad, I considered the periodical background of the Victorian style, a change course of textile, and the theoretical backing of the Victorian pattern, and I studied and analyzed the cases of being applied in the modern textile product designs by classifying apparel, home interior, and fashion accessories. First of all, in apparel, the Victorian pattern transformed into geometrical form had much relative importance, and secondly, in the home interior, the Victorian pattern was expressed realistically or it was represented more boldly and complexly with new materials or techniques introduced. Thirdly, in fashion accessories, decorative nature was shown in intense design with the real description of the Victorian flower pattern and brilliant colors. With these results, it was found out that when the Victorian pattern was applied in the modern textile product designs, it was the factor that could be expected to make a high value added suitable with the modern sense, and it was the pattern with developmental potential with its unlimited use range. Therefore, based on this study, it is considered that the development of textile product designs utilizing the Victorian pattern and academic research, reorganizing the Victorian pattern in accordance with the modern design should be continued.

Supplemental Fermented Milk Increases Growth Performance of Early-Weaned Pigs

  • Dunshea, F.R.;Kerton, D.J.;Eason, P.J.;King, R.H.
    • Asian-Australasian Journal of Animal Sciences
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    • 제13권4호
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    • pp.511-515
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    • 2000
  • Early weaning is a means of breaking the disease cycle from sow to piglet as well as capitalising on the enormous growth potential of the pig. However, the transition from milk to dry diets results in a growth check. Feeding of supplemental milk, fermented to reduce pH and enterotoxigenic bactetial proliferation, may be a means of gradually weaning pigs on to solid feed. This study involved 216 pigs weaned from the sow at 12 days of age, allocated to groups of 6 males and 6 females per weaner pen and allowed ad libitum access to a pelleted diet. In addition, half the pigs were given supplemental fermented skim milk for the first 8 days after weaning. Feeding supplemental fermented milk increased feed intake (104 vs. 157 g DM/d, p=0.011), average daily gain (-3 vs. 112 g/d, p<0.001) and feed conversion efficiency (0.01 vs. 0.81, p=0.003) over the first 8 days after weaning. The improvements observed in the supplemented pigs continued to be augmented such that, by 42 days of age, the pigs that had received supplemental fermented milk were heavier (9.6 vs. 11.5 kg, p=0.003) than their unsupplemented counterparts. Feeding fermented supplemental milk to early-weaned pigs can improve growth performance in the immediate and subsequent post-weaning period.

An Equal Pair: The Dialogic Narrative Scheme in Bleak House

  • Kim, Myungjin
    • 영어영문학
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    • 제55권6호
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    • pp.993-1011
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    • 2009
  • Generally, the parts narrated by Esther in Bleak House has been considered less convincing and reliable than those by the anonymous narrator for some problematic qualities in her character and narration. However, Esther's narrative shows Dickens' masterly depiction of emotional deprivation, the psychic consequences of the Victorian sexual repression on its victim. Therefore, to restore the reliability of Esther's narrative is the prerequisite for claiming its value as an appropriate locus of the meanings of the text. On the other hand, the anonymous narrator is not so omniscient as he has been regarded. As the chapters proceed, his omniscient power and authority is conspicuously weakened, and even transferred to other characters such as Esther and Mr. Bucket. This shows that the identity of the omniscient voice is unstable and that Dickens does not intend his voice to be the sole center of meanings of the text. In short, these two narratives are the necessary partners in imagining and understanding the society in its wholeness. Alternating and sometimes intersecting each other throughout the novel, these opposing viewpoints make us see the contradictory multi-leveledness of the Victorian society. The equality of them implies Dickens' notion that more than single unified voice is needed to portray ideological conflicts of his age.

The Effect of Broadcasting Sow Suckling Grunts in the Lactation Shed on Piglet Growth

  • Cronin, G.M.;Leeson, E.;Cronin, J.G.;Barnett, J.L.
    • Asian-Australasian Journal of Animal Sciences
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    • 제14권7호
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    • pp.1019-1023
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    • 2001
  • An on-farm trial was conducted in temperature-controlled lactation rooms at a commercial pig farm to investigate the efficacy of broadcasting sow suckling grunts from day 4 of lactation, on increasing piglet growth to weaning. In the Broadcast treatment, sows and litters were exposed to a 3-min broadcast from loud-speakers every 42 min. The Control treatment was not exposed to the broadcast. All sows and litters had similar husbandry and piglets were provided with creep feed on the floor twice daily. In each of the three replicates in time, the Broadcast and Control treatments were allocated to different lactation rooms at random and there were 12 sows and litters per treatment per replicate. A total of four identical lactation rooms were available for the trial, each containing 28 conventional sow and litter crates with piglet heater in the creep area. A non-trial room separated the two treatment rooms in each replicate to minimise the chance that the broadcast grunt stimulation was audible to the Control treatment litters. Five "normal and average-looking" piglets from the trial litters were weighed twice, 7 d apart. The cohort of five piglets was identified by ear-tags and formed the experimental unit for the statistical analysis. The average (${\pm}SD$) age of piglets at initial weighing was 7.7(${\pm}2.22$) days. For each litter, mean piglet live weight at day 14 of lactation was estimated by linear regression of the two weights recorded seven days apart, when on average, the Broadcast treatment had been exposed to the stimulation for 10 days. Piglets in the Broadcast treatment were heavier (p<0.01) at day 14 of lactation compared to Control treatment (4.24 and 3.92 kg, respectively) and tended to have a greater average daily weight gain over the 7-d period (245 and 228 g/day, respectively; p<0.08). The results suggest piglet growth was improved by about 8% in response to the regular, timed broadcast of sow suckling grunts in the lactation shed. The independent contributions of milk and creep feed to the improved growth remain to be determined.

영국산업혁명이후의 텍스타일에 표현된 패턴에 관한 연구 (Analysis of Textile Pattern Design Focusing an the Age of After Industrial Revolution in England)

  • 구희경
    • 한국의상디자인학회지
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    • 제1권1호
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    • pp.141-156
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    • 1999
  • This paper is to analyze the classification of textile pattern design focusing on the 19th century in England. The purpose of this study is. firstly to research the thoughts and ideas of these design in the time of mid-Victorian age; Secondly. to classify the textile pattern design from many points of view. We could find such William Morris's thought and ideas of 19th century to reform from textile pattern design. We wish to use these studies for textile pattern designers to develop this tradition onward to modern and future trends.

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빅토리안 스타일 주택 실내 디자인에 관한 연구 (A Study on the Elements of Interior Design in Victorian Style)

  • 김정근
    • 디자인학연구
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    • 제18권4호
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    • pp.25-34
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    • 2005
  • 본 연구는 빅토리아 양식의 주택 실내에 대해 그 기본적 특징을 구체적으로 밝혀봄으로써 오늘날에도 지속적으로 영향을 미치는 빅토리아 양식 주택 실내의 특징을 구체적으로 밝히고 양식의 의미를 재조명해 보고자 문헌고찰을 실시하였으며 그 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 빅토리아 양식의 주택은 전원의 단독주택이나 도시의 빌라, 타운하우스의 유형에 매우 다양한 역사주의 양식이 나타났고 지금까지 어느 시대 보다 다양한 주택유형이 등장하였다. 그중에서 벽돌과 뾰족한 지붕 사용과 같은 중세 고딕양식이 대표적인 특징으로 나타났다. 둘째, 빅토리아 양식의 실내는 로마네스크, 로코코, 고딕과 같이 과거 양식들이 사용되거니 하나의 실내에 절충적으로 표현되는 것이 특징이었고 방의 기능과 규범에 따라 양식들이 적용되거나 디자인의 비중을 달리하여 형식성을 갖는 것으로 나타났다. 셋째, 실내는 낭만주의와 자연주의 영향으로 자유롭고 불규칙하며 다양성이 특징이었고 절충주의와 장식과다는 이러한 맥락에서 이루어진 표현 특징인 것을 알 수 있었다. 또한 직물과 소품을 이용한 장식은 당시 공기오염이나 위생문제와 같은 환경적 요인이 관련된 것으로 나타났다. 기술적 발달은 주택에서 부엌과 위생설비 설치와 같은 전국적인 변화로 반영되었을 뿐 아니라 생산된 신재료와 주택 제품들을 통해 조화를 고려하는 다양한 디자인이 가능해지고 풍성하고 화려한 표현이 가능하게 해 주었다. 결론적으로 빅토리아 양식의 표현 특징에 영향 미친 요인은 낭만주의와 자연주의 사조 뿐 아니라 기술발달을 바탕으로 가족의 편이성을 고려하고 사회적 규범, 공기 오염과 같은 환경적 요인과 위생문제 해결, 빈번한 외곽과의 교류에 의한 개인의 가치 반영이라는 다양한 요인이 결부되었음을 알 수 있어 이와 같이 문제에 대처하는 방식으로써 빅토리아 양식에 대해 재고되어야 할 것이며 새로운 평가가 이루어져야 할 것이다.Cicindela(Cicindela) lewisi[sic] Bates: 한국곤충명집(1994)] 12. C.(Cicindela) sachalinensis Morawitz, 1862 산길앞잡이 13. C.(Cicindela) transbaicalica Motschulsky, 1845 참길앞잡이(=참뜰길앞잡이, 들길앞잡이, 왜길앞잡이) 14. C.(Cicindela) gracilis Pallas, 1777 깔다구길앞잡이 15. C.(Cicindela) obliquefasciata Adams, 1817 화홍깔다구길앞잡이(신칭) 16. C.(Eugrapha) elisae Motschulsky, 1859 꼬마길앞잡이 17 C.(Myriochila) speculifera Chevrolat, 1845 쇠길앞잡이 [=Cicindela(Myriochile) specularis Chaudoir: 한국곤충명집(1994)] 18. C.(Sophiodela) chinensis De Geer, 1774 길앞잡이게임, 토론그룹, 전자메일, 채팅과 상호관련을 가진 것으로 나타났으며, 교육/정보는 검색과 쇼핑, 현실도피는 게임과 토론그룹, 외로움은 토론그룹, 전자메일과 채팅, 쇼핑은 온라인 쇼핑과 상호관련성이 있는 것으로 분석되었다. 흥미로운 사실은 성적 만족과 관련해서 게임과 채팅은 긍정적인 상호관련을 가진 것으로 나타난 반면 전자메일 서비스 이용은 성적 만족과 부정적인 상호관련을 가진 것으로 분석되었다. 이는 대학생들이 지루하게 느끼거나 외로움을 느낄 때 전자메일을 주로 이용하지만 성적 만족을 위해 전자메일을 이용하지 않고 있다는 사실을 보여주는 것이다. (3) 인터넷 이용 이후 다른 미디어와 면대면 커뮤니케이션과의 관계 인터넷을 이용한 후 응답자들의 전통적인 미디어(텔레비전, 라디오, 신문, 잡지, 편지, 전화) 이용이 감소되었으며 친구, 가족, 이성친구와의

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19세기 영국 판타지소설 연구 -루이스 캐럴과 조지 맥도널드를 중심으로 (A Study of English Fantasy Novels in the 19th Century: Focus on Lewis Carroll and George MacDonald)

  • 양윤정
    • 영어영문학
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    • 제56권5호
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    • pp.999-1026
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    • 2010
  • There was a Golden Age of Fantasy novels in the United Kingdom in the 19th Century, which had the major writers, Lewis Carroll and George MacDonald. These writers pushed the boundaries of imagination and created a new world in which explore their own selves and societies. Fantasy novels flowered in the 1860s when a group of writers including Carroll and MacDonald published their works. These writers used the trait of dream framing to create their own fantasy world in which they took the action against the complicated and oppressive Victorian reality. Carroll's fantasy worlds of Alice in Wonderland and Through the Looking-Glass were an insane and chaotic world where the certainty of the real world was overturned. MacDonald's dream worlds of At the Back of the North Wind and the Princess books including The Princess and the Goblin and The Princess and Curdie were ideal societies in which imaginative characters could create harmony between fantasy and reality. Fantasy writers engaged in making journey to other lands to do philosophical and moral discussion critiquing Victorian society and to find insights into those problems in their works. Thus, their fantasy journey traverses time and place can produce some suggestive answers to the questions that lie in other times and realities as well as theirs.