• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.544-561
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• 2020

Goldwork embroidery is the art of embroidery using metal threads. As well as being used as a decorative element of religious clothing, flags, performing costumes, uniforms, and badges, goldwork embroidery is also used in many current designer collections. Therefore, this study aimed to examine the techniques and materials of goldwork embroidery and the formative characteristics and socio-cultural values of goldwork embroidery from its beginning to the early 20th century. For this study, various embroidery works, costumes, museum portraits, and literature were analyzed. The results are as follows. First, the transition of goldwork embroidery was divided into 4 categories: The beginning of goldwork embroidery; the golden age of goldwork embroidery; the maturity of goldwork embroidery; and various goldwork embroidery (depending on the materials used, usage, and design features). The earliest extant example is the "Maaseik fragments" in Belgium dating from the late 8th to early 9th centuries. Until the 15th century, the Church was the most important patron of goldwork embroidery; however, after the 15th century, goldwork embroidery was produced on costumes. Second, the social-cultural values of goldwork embroidery (based on transition and formative features) were classified as expression of divinity, instrument of governance, desire to be approved, and tools of self-expression. Through this study, it is evident that there have been many advances in both technique and technology over time. Furthermore, patterns of usage and social-cultural values of goldwork embroidery have changed significantly.

• Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.132-137
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• 2010

The skc gene encoding streptokinase (SK) with a molecular mass of approximately 47.4 kDa was cloned from Streptococcus equisimilis ATCC 9542 and heterologously overexpressed in Streptomyces lividans TK24 and E. coli using various strong promoters. When the promoter for sprT [Streptomyces griseus trypsin (SGT)] was used in the host S. lividans TK24, a 47.4-kDa protein was detected along with a smaller hydrolyzed protein (44 kDa), suggesting that posttranslational hydrolysis had occurred as has been reported in other expression systems. The casein/plasminogen plate assay revealed that the plasmid construct containing the SGT signal peptide was superior to that containing the SK signal peptide in terms of SK production. Maximal production of SK was calculated to be about 0.25 unit/ml of culture broth, a value that was five times higher than that obtained with other expression systems using ermE and tipA promoters in the same host. When the skc gene was expressed in E. coli BL21(${\Delta}DE3$)pLys under the control of the T7 promoter, a relatively large amount of SK was expressed in soluble form without hydrolysis. SK activity in E. coli/pET28a-$T7_pSK_m$ was more than 2 units/ml of culture broth, even though about half of the expressed protein formed an inactive inclusion body.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.1003-1016
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to reorganize any rusty image including natural modeling characteristic presented from the natural phenomenon to certain patterns in order to create the fashion design that are valued in the expansion of independently expressional area and modeling art. As a method for research, the author analyzed the concept and characteristic for rust with a base of theoretical background by the documental research and realistic consideration, analyzed its modeling characteristic through domestic and overseas pictures, and e-documents as data, inspected the modeling activities of various categories that various images were adapted related to rust, looked into the concept of Digital Textile Printing and its producing procedure as an expressional method, and analyzed the examples of modern dress and its ornament making use of Digital Textile Printing. The conclusions of this study are as below. First, the rust occurred due to the natural phenomenon is the bond with different material like metal, each unique modeling characteristic occurs and harmony of various patterns has abundant aesthetic value. Second, the author could endowed sensible characteristic and speciality with works and could produce creative fashion design that painting, abstractive pattern and harmony of unique sense of colors are significant by using the image of rust, Third, to emphasize natural feeling of rust, the author could develop creative design that simple silhouette and impressive pattern look significant by reorganizing and applying rust according to repetition, increment, rhythm, contract, emphasis and harmony. Fourth, Digital Textile Printing method is used to induce visual effect by the expression of feels of rust, and the author could express the natural patterns, delicate expression for the feels of a material and unique design of emotion.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.910-923
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• 2008

This study investigated the difference in the influence of shopping orientations, attributes evaluation, and benefits sought on brand loyalty between Korean and American consumers within a clothing purchase context. Questionnaires were administered to 237 Korean consumers and 184 American college students who had purchase experience of casual wear in recent six months through off-line. The results were as follows. First, the hedonic shopping orientation had a positive impact on brand loyalty in both groups, whereas efficient shopping orientation had a positive impact on brand loyalty in American group. Second, the aesthetic attribute had a positive impact on brand loyalty in both groups, whereas utilitarian attribute had a positive impact on brand loyalty in Korean group. Third, brand value benefit sought had a positive impact on brand loyalty in Korean group and body expression/complement had a positive impact on brand loyalty and economic benefit sought had a negative impact on brand loyalty in American group.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.705-725
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• 2015

A Beoseonbongip is a pouch that holds patterns for making Beoseons. This study aimed to identify the aesthetic and symbolic contents of the embroidery patterns by analyzing the kind, combination types, expression and arrangement types of patterns. In total, 140 Beoseonbongip artifacts, which were mostly made in the Joseon Dynasty, were quantitatively and qualitatively analyzed. The results indicated that about 83% of the total had flower patterns. Various kinds of embroidery patterns used for Beoseonbongips were newly identified. About 73% of the total had different kinds of patterns. Pattern combination types were identified by the kinds of patterns, the number of paired patterns, and the traditional painting styles used. The patterns of Beoseonbongips were expressed schematically more than realistically or abstractly. Beoseonbongips with different patterns on the four triangle tips of the front face and Beoseonbongips with the same/similar patterns on two opposite tips of the front face were observed more than the other types. On the back face, the embroidery patterns were symmetrically arranged, showing various division structures. It was inferred that wishes (e.g., marital harmony, fertility, good health and longevity, happiness, and wealth and fame) were expressed through the symbolic patterns embroidered on the Beoseonbongips. In terms of Korean traditional beauty, the union with nature, the harmony of yin and yang, symmetric balance, and neatness were also emphasized as a esthetic characteristics of Beoseonbongips.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.273-286
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• 2016

Traditional Chinese operas are time-honored art form, they are vivid in expression, rich in content, embody social, thought-provoking, historical and artistic value. And as a splendid art form and part of China's brilliant traditional cultural heritage, traditional Chinese operas have been developed with Chinese history from generation to generation. Nowadays, with the comprehensive national strength increasingly growing, Chinese government is giving more and more importance to enhance people's awareness of protecting traditional Chinese opera. In actual fact, both Chinese scholars and the other scholars who have done some research in traditional Chinese operas and built up solid foundation for further study. Even though, traditional Chinese operas have not been fully understood by people outside the 5000-year-old civilization, especially what is the close relationship between the apparel and accessories and the names of dramas. Based on this condition, the paper selects and summarizes names of apparel and accessories in traditional Chinese dramas as its thesis, intending to explore the relationship between the apparel and accessories and the names of dramas, analyzing how such names in dramas highlight themes and promote the development of unique storylines. The paper will help Western readers further understand the meaning of traditional operas names' behind these costumes and promote Chinese traditional dramas spreading to abroad.

• Journal of Digital Contents Society
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.219-225
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• 2006

The appearance of digital culture contents swiftly has changed the culture in domestic and international areas in recently and the digital cartoon and animation have become the most important expression media in contemporary age. The digital cartoon and animation industry have attracted the attention of the people as the business of the OSMU(One Source Multi User) which has the possibility to expand and to enhance the added value not only for the field of image and character business but also for the area of the advertising and tourist business. Therefore, in this paper, 1 study on education and development of the digital cartoon and animation. Firstly, I study on definition and type of the digital cartoon, and work flow of the cartoon contents production. Secondly, the purpose of this study is to analyze and research the domestic business trend of the digital cartoon and animation. Finally, 1 propose the plan of policy and education of the digital cartoon and animation.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.6 s.53
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• pp.918-932
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• 2004

Fashion is a product of form expressing the socio-cultural mood and aesthetic value of an age. Owing to development of the mass media and diversification of arts under the influence of post-modernism in the 20th century, fashion has been more briskly expressed to be presented to the people. With such basic conceptions in mind, this study was aimed at reviewing the fashion photography as visual medium. To this end, visual narrative techniques were analyzed and thereupon, Philip-Lorca diCorcia's fashion photography was examined. This study reviews such visual narrative techniques by dividing into visual and non-visual elements and thereby, examines the three-fold aspects of fashion photography expressions : Representative Level, Ground Level and Context Level. Also this study focuses on Philip-Lorca diCorcia's fashion photography in 'W magazine' which features portfolio form. This study analyzed the visual narratives shown in fashion photography and thereby, expand in diverse ways the fixed images of the conventional fashion photography commercials featuring beautiful models and exquisite costumes, and additionally, determined that fashion photography must be a kind of expression tool which could express not only the simple fashion but also the socio-psychological elements inherent in fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.38
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• pp.369-392
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• 1998

In order to identify and describe the central core of fashion desire, the concept of“anti-aesthetics”and“open fashion”were analyzed based on the discourses of postmodernism dis-cussed in the field of sociology, culture, art and philosophy. In this paper, first, the new perspectives of fashion related to modernism and postmodernism were proposed, open concept, anti-aesthet-ics which is ephemerality but eternal ideology. Key principles of postmodernism as anti-aess-thetics mean the philosophy of nihilism proposed by Nietzsche indeterminency, the endd of original art(the death of art), the sublimity provided by Lyotard, and the pluralism to release human from the closed way of thinking, value, ideology. Second, the old and classical definition of fashion,“the differentiation of class”proposed by Veblen and Simmel has been changed into the“differentiation of taste”in postmodern condition. Third, the dichotomous system, that is, ration vs emotion, soul vs body, male vs female, culture vs nature, and so on has been deconstructed and disolved in the postmodern fashion phenomenon using the technique of anti-formalism, such as pastich, parody, bricolage an kitsch for the expression of sublimity and freedom of human.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.277-294
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to examine characteristics of symbolism as an important trend of the end of centuries, by comparing the symbolic characteristics from two periods, modern(1880∼1910s) and comtemporary(1990s), based on the typical characteristics of symbolic art by Robert R. Delevoy. Af for the study method, the contents analysis is adopted to present an objective data analysis and interpretation accompanied by theoretical approach through literature survey. Delevoy classifies symbolism into three categories such as mysticism, eroticism, and decorativeness. This study is developed based on the Delevoy's three categories. symbolistic costume reflecting systems of the society and the phases of the times, became to contain all aspects of functional, symbolic, and practical. Especially, the costume I contemporary era adopted a new approach, philosophical factors controling human's sensibility, and a sincere and analytical attitude on progress of technology. This study provide the fact that costume is a part to create aesthetic of self-expression as a field of formative art. Contemporary costume allows vital power for daily life of human by pursuing new aesthetic value, and it expresses inner world of human and moves on future-oriented to regain humanity. The symbolistic characteristics will continue to influence varous aspects of our society and play a main role in shaping the purpose of fashion design in the 21st century.