• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.66-83
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• 2018

This article focuses how the materials of hatstrings of the 19th to 20th century gat, the Korean top hat for men among the collections of National Folk Museum of Korea, was transformed after port opening treaties with overseas since 1876. As a result of analyzing the materials of the hatstrings, amber, tortoiseshell, wood and bamboo as the traditional materials were used, and ivory, glass (soda glass, lead glass, alkali mixed glass) and plastics (cellulose nitrate, phenol-formaldehyde, polystyrene, acryl) were newly used for the hatstrings. Bamboo, wood and amber were the most frequently used materials. Bamboo was mainly used for the pipe of hatstring and were combined with beads and central decorations of other materials. This shows the trend of bamboo hatstring according to the simplification of the clothing and the culture by Regent Heungseon Daewongun. Ambers were used in the central decorations and beads and the origin of ambers was baltic amber just like the amber relics found in Korea. Compositions of glass were soda glass and alkali mixed glass which were excavated or handed down in Korea from ancient times to Joseon dynasty. But in the case of lead glass, Na2O was detected and it is considered to be a new type lead glass for crafts which came from overseas after port opening since 1876 because it showed the characteristic that it deviates from the lead glass component found in Korea. Plastics such as cellulose nitrate and phenol-formaldehyde were used as new synthetic materials to replace traditional materials such as tortoiseshell, amber, and coral as in the West. Cracks, crazing, crumbly and yellowing of cellulose nitrate of hatstrings were observed by deterioration. The survey of the materials of the 19th to 20th century hatstrings among the collections of National Folk Museum of Korea showed that the introduction of new materials such as glass and plastics were used to replace natural materials such as tortoiseshell and amber along with the use of traditional materials after port opening since 1876.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.813-827
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• 2006

In this investigation, the following study was carried out for an experimental proposal of the knit item lists which were not actualized due to lack of studies. First of all, we have put the knit item titles that have been used through the document investigation, into the lists in order to clarify the original item list. Furthermore, we have pointed out the problems and the areas to be developed in the original item lists, and proposed twenty new knit item lists. By defining the design traits of each item, we have established item list which could be classified more systematically. As a result, the knit item titles of twenty newly proposed item titles are knit pull over, knit pull over top, knit top, knit t shirt, knit shirt, knit polo shirt, knit blouse, knit vest, knit hood, knit jumper, knit jacket, knit coat, knit cardigan, knit ensemble, knit cape, knit shawl, knit bikini, knit one-piece, knit pants, and knit skirt. Secondly, in order to investigate the possibility of practical use of twenty knit item lists proposed by this study, we have applied anova with repeated measurement for foreign fashion collection knit item trends of the past 10 years based on the proposed item lists. As a result, four items classified as top, shirt, cardigan, and pants had similar changes in the trend for last 10 years in S/S season while eleven items classified as pull over, pull over top, blouse, vest, jacket, coat, cardigan, ensemble, cape, shawl, and one-piece had similar trend changes for F/W season. The first significance of this study is on the experimental proposal of knit item list which could be used in the actual clothing industry and academic field. Furthermore, by defining the design traits of each knit item, it sublated the confusions brought by vocabularies in design of knit products and distribution in the industry perspective, and it made it possible to categorize the knit items correctly in knit design analysis and knit design education in academic field. The second significance shows that this study brought about positive results in the possibility of industrial academic practical use of proposed list by indicating that most of the knit designs appeared in the foreign collections in the past ten years could be correctly classified through investigational analysis.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.82-100
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• 2015

Mobile fashion apps present much opportunity for marketers to engage consumers, however not all apps provide enough functions for their targeted audience. This study aims to determine how mobile fashion apps can be used to build brand community with consumer engagement. Qualitative data on fashion mobile apps were collected from the Apple app store and Android market during the spring and summer of 2015. A total of 110 fashion mobile apps were collected;, 50 apps were identified as apparel brands that either manufacture or sell apparel to consumers, which we categorized as "brand" fashion apps, and the remaining 60 were categorized as "non-brand" fashion apps. The result of the study can be summarized as below. The 60 non-brand fashion apps were grouped into 5 app types: shopping, searching, sharing, organizational, and informational. The main functions are for informational use and shopping needs, since at least half (31 apps) are used for either retrieving information or for shopping. However, in contrast, social networking and location were infrequent and not commonly utilized by these apps. The most common type of non-brand fashion apps available were shopping apps;, many shopping apps enable users to shop from several different websites and save their items into one universal shopping cart so that they only check out once. Most of these apps are informational and help consumers make more informed decisions on purchases;, in addition many offer location services to help consumers find these items in store. While these apps perform several functions, they do not link to social media. The 50 brand apps were grouped into 5 brand types: athletic, casual, fast fashion, luxury, and retailer. These apps were also checked for attributes to determine their functionality. The result shows that the main functions of brand fashion apps are for information (82% of the 50 apps) as well as location searching (72% of 50 apps). Conversely, these apps do not offer any photo sharing, and very few have organizational or community functions. Fashion mobile apps and m-marketing elements: To build brand community, mobile apps can be designed to motivate consumer's engagement with brands. The motivations of fashion mobile apps are useful in developing fashion mobile apps. Entertainment motives can be fulfilled with multimedia attributes, functionality motives are satisfied with organizational and location-based features, information motives with informational service, socialization with community and social network, learning and intellectual stimulation from informational attributes, and trend following through photo sharing. The 8 key attributes of mobile apps can correspond to the 4 m-marketing elements (i.e., Informative content, multimedia, interactions, and product promotions) that are further intertwined with m-branding elements. App Attributes and M-Marketing aim to Build Brand Community;, the eight key attributes can impact on 4 m-branding elements, which further contribute to building brand community by affecting consumers' perceptions of brands preference and advocacy, and their likelihood to be loyal.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.41
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• pp.185-206
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was to improve productivity for maximum effects with the present equipments and staff. This study compared and analyzed the mea-sured time by using stop watch method and MTM, which was the new measuring method. The flow and results of this study were as follows: 1. This study investigated the theoretical background the efficiency for production management, and the way of productivity improvement through documentary research. 2. Setting up the standard flow on the experi-mental company production, making out a process chart and measuring the actual working hour. 3. The study measured the allowance time applying work sampling. 4. Each process of the movement analysis was filmed by video to use basic data. 5. MTM analysis was taken by choosing 10 processes from front bodice according to the basic movement of MTM. Through the results, this study exclude unneccesary movements and suggest a method for working ways. 6. Using the actual working hour measured by a stop watch calculated the pitch time and presumed the amount of daily productivity. 7. The result of the work sampling came out as 38% of allowance rate. It was 13% higher than the standard amount of woman's jacket allowance rate, which was 25%. The most influencing factor was work discussion. That was because there were commuication problem of the work way between the operator and leader. More adequate use of flow table and level passing table was needed. There were the problems that inappropriate places and sizes made the distance of movements longer and often needed more adjustment of works and surroundings. To prevent breakdowns equipments check ups were necessary before works. 8. The results of MTM analysis were as follow : the time was reduced 40% than the actual measured time by a stop watch. This was because the leveling of the operator was included in the real calculation. Also, leveling was included in MTM analysis and all the conditions were standarized. Therefore MTM method was a scientidic measuring way of establishing the standard time. The presented method of this study, suggested an ideal method eliminating unneccesary motions, and presented standardization of works. Improvement of working methods, work condition and simplifying motions in each 10 processes reduced the working time from total 656 seconds to 301 seconds. 9. The way and time of working was linked together in the MTM analysis methods. Thus data from MTM help suggest not only establishing standard time but also establishing stan-dard work. Plus it includes various ability for improvements of working ways. So it is an objective method which can be widely used in other work studies. 10. The function of a time study is to determine the amount of work produced with a given method. The work rate is used to establish the cost of labor. The wage of worker must be calculated per unit time which is deter-mined before the time study is made. This study tried to introduce the incentive rule for deciding wages according to the standard time by MTM method.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.207-220
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to investigate sensibility words related with eco-friendly in the two media fashion magazines and internet newspapers and to analysis their appearance frequency and changes by the year through 1999~2010. Most frequently used words are 'nature, eco, cotton, natural fiber, health, fresh, clear, preservation, harmony, com fiber, and Lohas'. The words are divided in 4 groups: 'Nature/Environment, Material/Fiber, Human, and Adjectives/Micell'. A point of appearing time is analyzed: 'ecology, memory-shape material, organic, spa' were used before 2000, 'nature environment, eco-friendly, stretch material, wellbeing, substitute, recycling' were in 2000-2001, 'smart material, eco material, green' in 2002-2003, 'coolbiz, Lohas, natural dye' in 2004-2005, 'herb medicine, sustainable, warmbiz' in 2006-2007, 'greensumer, greenlife, solar energy, forest bath' in 2008-2009. Looking into their changes, in early 2000, the words of eco-friendly emotion and sensibility had appeared frequently relatively, but later on they decreased, and again recently increased showing highest appearing frequency. 'Nature/Environment' words have appeared recently very much, while 'Human' sensibility words have not changed much or decreased a little. 'Adjective/Micell' words has increased little bit recently. 'Material/Fiber' words showed decrease at fashion magazine, while they increased at the pages of internet news.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.61-72
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• 2018

Different types of traditional Korean clothes (Hanbok) are appearing in the market with the increasing interest of culture consumers. In order to turn traditional Korean clothes into everyday clothes that adequately reflect various demands of culture consumers, it is important to satisfy both functional and emotional aspects of clothing. However, there is lack of existing studies on emotions of culture consumers while wearing traditional Korean clothes. In this study, 28 emotional words regarding traditional Korean clothes were extracted by applying the Delphi method and conformity rating survey to 182 emotional words reported in existing studies and references from areas such as psychology, linguistics, and sensibility engineering. The 28 selected emotional words can be used to express emotions felt by culture consumers about traditional Korean clothes. Also, words were grouped based on the correlation according to factor analysis. Based on common characteristics, the emotional words were classified into 6 categories of 'pleasure,' 'aesthetic sense,' 'harmony,' 'novelty,' 'likability,' and 'stability.' These 6 emotional categories were concluded to represent emotions of consumers about traditional Korean clothes. The 28 emotional words and 6 representative emotions noted in this study can be used as basic data for measuring emotions of culture consumers of traditional Korean clothes. A future study task is to design a detailed assessment scale to measure emotions of culture consumers about traditional Korean clothes using representative emotions.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.527-533
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• 2017

As the clothing industry has advanced, dyeing technologies using various dyes have been developed. In recent years, interest in natural pigments has been increasing because of the negative impact of synthetic pigment on human health; therefore, development and application of microbial pigments is demanded. In this study, the dyeing effects on multifiber fabrics and biological activity were assessed using violet natural pigment from the marine bacterium, Microbulbifer sp. PPB12. The violet pigment produced by cultivation of Microbulbifer sp. PPB12 using Marine broth 2216 for 3 days was extracted using ethanol. Once dissolved in 20% ethanol, the violet pigment could be used to dye bleached cotton, diacetate, and especially polyamide. The optimal temperature, time, pH, and bath ratio under the dyeing conditions were $80^{\circ}C-90^{\circ}C$, more than 1 hour, pH 4-6, and 1:25, respectively. The mordant treatment was more suitable for color expression when $Na_2SO_4$ was used after 10 minutes of dyeing, but no significant difference was observed from untreated samples. The violet pigment also showed antibacterial activity against B. subtilis. The results of the present study indicate that the marine bacterial pigment could be an alternative for textile dyeing as a natural dye with antibacterial activity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.19
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• pp.141-155
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• 1992

The Buddhist costumes, unlike the ordinary ones, have not been studied comprehensively due to their religious, non-popular and non-social features. In this regard, this paper aimed at reviewing the styles and symbolic Characters of the monks' dancing costumes for the traditional Buddhist ceremony of 'Spirit Vulture Peak'(The Intangible Cultural Asset No.50.) Here, the 'Spirit Vulture Peak Ceremony' is a kind of Buddhist ceremony commemorating the Buddha's preaches on the peak of Mt. Grdhrakuta by means of symbolized ritual and reformation procedures. The methodology of this study depended on the research of literatures, personal observation of the actual ceremony and the discussion with Priest Park Song-am. The dancing style of the Ceremony can be divided into four categories; the cymbal dancing., the drum dancing , the butterfly dancing and the column-beating dancing. And for the dancing costumes, the loose ritual mantle, the long-sleeve robe and the buddhist costume are used; the loose mantle and the long-sleeve robe are for the drum dancing. The style of the loose mantle is rectangular, sewn every odd knot between 5 and 25 ones. According to the record, its color was initially grey or red-yellow, but varied depending on the local rules. The four corners of the loose mantle have a rectangular-cloth embroidery of sky & king patterns, and the center is embroidered with the Sun'Moon designs or 'Om/Nan' letters in the Korean spells. The light of Sun/ Moon designs symbolizing the sky and the earth respectively are indigenous to a particular school in Korea. The long-sleeve robe has a traditional over-coat style. and is called otherwise of if some design is added. The total clothing or dancing costumes for the Ceremony include 'the Dae-ryung (meaning great peake)loose mantle', 'the White Paldad(meaning Chinese Character eight) long-sleeve robe and the peaked hat. The Dae-ryung mantle is a kind of ritual costumes with the shorter length than the ordinary mantles, and has a character 'Ryung' in Chinese spell attached with three to six colors. The White Paldae robe is shorter than the ordinary robes in the total length but longer in the length of sleeves. It is put on over the mantle from the left shoulder, and used often for the butterfly and column-beating dancings. It is hoped that this study will promote the study on the customs and rites of the Buddhism rather than on the thoughts, and contribute to the further studies.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.16-28
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate the content and changes of modern Korean men's wear advertisement from the 1960s to the 1990s by reviewing fashion magazines and pictorials. Research problems were as follows.; First, analyze the types and their units of measurement in men's fashion advertisements from 1962 to 1998. Second, examine the differences of quantitative change in men's fashion advertisements according to each period. The total 857 advertisements were selected from Shin Dong-A, Joongang Magazine, and Bokjangwolbo from 1972 to 1998. For analyze the result, frequency analysis and $x^2$-test were used. Results were as follows. First, through the review of literatures and pre-tests, 6 units of measurement were identified. They were product type(formal wear, casual wear, sports wear, dress shirts, accessory, inner wear, fabric and the others), brand type(national brand, licensed brand, imported brand, others), appeal type(image, product, others), representation type(photograph, illustration, others), medium type(man, product, others), and color type of advertisement(black & white picture, color picture). Second, for the types of advertisements, formal wear, national brand, image appeal, figure medium, photograph for presentation and color picture are the most frequently shown in men's fashion advertisements from 1962 to 1998. Third, for product, more accessory advertisements were found than the clothing in the 60s and the 70s, and casual wear advertisements in the 80s and formal wear advertisements in the 90s were dominated. National brand type was dominant through all four period. Product appeal type in the 60s and the 70s and image appeal type in the 80s and the 90s were prevailed. For medium, product type in the 60s and the 70s and figure type in the 80s and the 90s were dominated. Black & white picture in the 60s and the 70s and color picture in the 80s and the 90s were prevailed. Lastly, photograph was the most frequently used for presentation type through all periods.

• Journal of Mushroom
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.52-59
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• 2005

The Aphyllophorales is a large order containing about 2,000 known species. Many of these are the bracket and coral fungi. The vast majority of these fungi are saprophytic on the plant debris. Many species are significant in decomposing plant remains, as they are able to digest cellulose or lignin that occurs in plant cell walls. Many of these fungi have been involved in everyday human affairs. A few were used medicinally by the Greeks and Romans as a remedy for many complaints, including colic, fractured limbs and bruises. Other bracket fungi have been used as curry combs for horses, as snuff, as razor strops and as a source of dye for clothing. The texture of the basidiocarp may be similar to that of cork, wood, leather, paper, or cartilage. Unlike the basidiocarps of the Order Agaricales, the basidiocarps of the Aphyllophorales are not fleshly and moist. Division of the members of the Aphyllophorales into genera was originally made on the basis of gross morphology of the basidiocarp and hymenium and Donk(1964) recognizes 22 families in this order. The species and genus whose typical in Aphylloporales were listed in Table. with related information. The ITS region sequence of some genus were found by BLAST search. Sequences retrieved from GenBank were visually aligned by the program CLUSTAL G. As a result, the medicinal mushroom was separated in four groups. In this multiple alignment, the sequence analysis among Fomes group, Inonotus group and Phellinus group showed high genetic similarity except Hericium group and Sparassis group.